Fuel tank valves

I need some input on the stem valves for the sight tubes on my fuel tanks. Notice the pic with graphite "dust", this is what was left of the stem seal when I disassembled the valve. I was told to use Teflon packing- I cut a 12" section and wrapped it clockwise around the stem- then tightened the nut down till snug. Does this look correct?
Next question- I am swapping the soft tube*site glass over to 1/2" acrylic plastic site tube. The rubber compression bushing I was provided at the hose supplier does not slip into the pocket in the valve. The OD is too big. I can cut a bevel with my pocket knife that lets it slip in a bit when I tighten the nut down enough. Not the best set up. Anyone have an idea where to gte a better fitting ruber bushing? Obviously I am trying to reuse the original valves. Thanks for your help.
Steve



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Mr. Forklift,
Might you be able to get a piece of rubber fuel hose the right size and cut a thin slice to use as a comression bushing? If the teflon packing does not react with deisel fuel and does not leak, it looks fine.
RTF

RTF,
Thats a great idea. I will see what size fuel line seems to work and give it a try. I am putting our rear port tank back in service this weekend.
Steve

If you are going to be playing with the actual fuel valves , you might consider remoting the shut offs.

This is a Requirement on any USCG licensed boat above 6 pack , and makes a lot of sense for a couple of bucks.

Outboard shift cables are cheap and robust , might be nice to have a small fire STAY a small fire.

Remember a GRP (fiberglass boat) hull fire can not be put out with less than a military airport crash unit.

FF

Our local fire trucks have had no problems putting out FRP fires this year. Some just used water and one had foam.

Recommend a ball valve vice a gate style.