Comodave
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No problem. I almost always use the advanced search.
Who has had to deal with leaking fuel tanks?
- Thread starter Steve91T
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Civilitas
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- M/V Peter Iredale ;)
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- rusting hulk
Off topic, but possibly helpful. I noticed recently why this happens as I do many searches educating myself on the market, makes, etc.
When you do a general search, it appears to me that once it finds something that matches your parameters, it then only finishes searching within the boat type of that first result.
E.g. - if it encounters a Hatteras in “flybridge,” even if you didn’t make that a search criteria, it then looks only in that category and misses any that are in “aft cabin,” “trawler,” etc. Since the type categorization is very haphazard in their listings, this is a poor way their search was designed.
Becuase of this flaw in their search algorithm it is why you need to use ‘advanced search’ and leave the boat type blank. I finally noticed this after wondering why I often couldn’t re-locate boats I knew where there.
diver dave
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This has quite a bit to offer for ease of install and longevity. Lets say you have rotten steel tanks, you then cut out the exposed wall. Drop in PE tanks between baffles.
You will now have maybe 8x 70 gallon tanks. This will leave more numerous fill, vent and pickup hosing. Plus gauging.
You may also be as busy as a 707 flight engineer managing these tanks.
BUT, it does make it easier to do a day tank arrangement.
No engine pulls, hull cuts, or custom tanks.
psneeld
Guru
Cut out the steel tanks........PIA but not that bad....... and get the storage space, the ability to instantly see the fuel levels and lose the flaking rust.
All I had to do is remove a deck support post in front of the tanks on both sides of the engine room (single engine).
The biggest challenge is seeing what off the shelf tank (if saving money is a high priority) will sqeeze back in after the tanks are cut out but you dont want to cut or move anything else.
Worth every penny and depending on the spaces left by the other tanks, there are larger off the shelf tanks. I have 2, 58 gallon baffled tanks that cost less than $700 shipped.
They actually hold about 60 gallons and I have a nominal 300NM range with them and plenty reserve.
All I had to do is remove a deck support post in front of the tanks on both sides of the engine room (single engine).
The biggest challenge is seeing what off the shelf tank (if saving money is a high priority) will sqeeze back in after the tanks are cut out but you dont want to cut or move anything else.
Worth every penny and depending on the spaces left by the other tanks, there are larger off the shelf tanks. I have 2, 58 gallon baffled tanks that cost less than $700 shipped.
They actually hold about 60 gallons and I have a nominal 300NM range with them and plenty reserve.
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sunchaser
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An often overlooked issue is why do metal fuel tanks begin leaking? Low boat hours and lousy install high on the list. Secondly, if outside water getting on tank exteriors can it be detected?
As boat searching ramps up, high on the list should be two things. One, are the bilges bone dry? If not, where is the water coming from and why. This is one of many reasons I prefer dripless shaft seals. Any bilge water can be detected and quickly remedied.
Secondly, are tank tops viewable? If top not viewable and fresh water in bilge following a heavy rain or wash, be concerned.
As boat searching ramps up, high on the list should be two things. One, are the bilges bone dry? If not, where is the water coming from and why. This is one of many reasons I prefer dripless shaft seals. Any bilge water can be detected and quickly remedied.
Secondly, are tank tops viewable? If top not viewable and fresh water in bilge following a heavy rain or wash, be concerned.
sdowney717
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Why not have tanks coated with polyurethane or line-X or polyurea so the metal exterior can not get wet?
Waterproof and oil proof and very tough is polyurea coating.
Even if the tank rotted from the inside, it will remain liquid tight.
Diesel or Gasoline, has no effect on this polyurea strength. Look on page 8.
http://www.huntsman.com/polyurethan...0D0EE040EBCD2C6B681C/files/Polyurea Spray.pdf
And another, shows gasoline and diesle recommended for use with their polyurea. Polyurea just seems to be a solution here to preventing even old tank from leaking, so could be used to repair old leaky tanks..
http://www.sealboss.com/polyurea resistance chart.pdf
Waterproof and oil proof and very tough is polyurea coating.
Even if the tank rotted from the inside, it will remain liquid tight.
Diesel or Gasoline, has no effect on this polyurea strength. Look on page 8.
http://www.huntsman.com/polyurethan...0D0EE040EBCD2C6B681C/files/Polyurea Spray.pdf
And another, shows gasoline and diesle recommended for use with their polyurea. Polyurea just seems to be a solution here to preventing even old tank from leaking, so could be used to repair old leaky tanks..
http://www.sealboss.com/polyurea resistance chart.pdf
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Marlinmike
Guru
One tank started leaking shortly after purchase, was below teak deck, cut along seam and up tight on either end and removed like a big hatch, removed tank and brought to a shop specializing in marine fuel tanks, week later picked up and replaced. Two years later the other one went. At the time of the first I would not have saved anytime by doing two as each was a separate hatch cut.
There are so many variables on why tanks fail. If I were to buy a 30 year old boat, that had the original tanks, I'd either walk away or ask for a discount.
Hobo's tanks were coated and from what we could see they looked good. The insides were OK. We had some rust on the top by the fills but not enough to cause any concern. Why'd the tank fail, poor/sloppy installation. The engineering was solid with the front lip raised to allow any water to run forward to a limber hole but when the top deck was installed, they never cleaned the sawdust from to deck beams and floor fabrication. The sawdust held water against the the lip and the tank rusted form the outside in (3rd pic).
Hobo's tanks were coated and from what we could see they looked good. The insides were OK. We had some rust on the top by the fills but not enough to cause any concern. Why'd the tank fail, poor/sloppy installation. The engineering was solid with the front lip raised to allow any water to run forward to a limber hole but when the top deck was installed, they never cleaned the sawdust from to deck beams and floor fabrication. The sawdust held water against the the lip and the tank rusted form the outside in (3rd pic).
