Fastest drying varnish

Hi All,

If you look at my boat, you see lots of wood to keep varnished (I knew this going in). On our sailboat we used Sikkens Cetol Marine. My experience with it, was it took a long time to dry between coats. I’m looking for a good varnish that goes on easy and drys relatively fast. Suggestions? Thanks.

Dave

Pettit Sea Gold claims up to four coats a day, so it must be quick drying. Soap and water clean up too.

Call the guys at Fisherman’s Supply in the paint dept. They may recomend the water based stuff (System Three) but I wouldn’t.

I’d thin out low oil varnish and add Japan Dryer. But it probably be shoot’in oneself in the foot as it would take more coats.

There’s just no way to get 10 coat varnish w/o the 10 coats.

Dave_E said:

Hi All,

If you look at my boat, you see lots of wood to keep varnished (I knew this going in). On our sailboat we used Sikkens Cetol Marine. My experience with it, was it took a long time to dry between coats. I’m looking for a good varnish that goes on easy and drys relatively fast. Suggestions? Thanks.

Dave

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Le Tonkinios Linseed Varnish

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I use Pettit Seagold... quick-drying, easy clean-up, but not much shine to it.

Ancora,
And not very thick if it’s anything like System Three’s water based varnish. Failed early on in Alaska.

I would leave varnish behind and move to one of the two part epoxies. Last 5 times longer.

Tilt,
Since epoxy has no UV protection you’ve got to varnish over your epoxy.
May as well varnish from base to top coat. Easy to do.
I had problems w varnish in Alaska but my varnish is doing fine in Washington. I need to say we’re under covered moorage though. But I haven’t touched up or added coats in several (2-3) yrs. Proper varnish is at least one coat annually.

As to using epoxy as a base I’ve been using a heavy oil base and find it works well. I get the penetration I’m looking for thining w kerosene.

Interlux jet speed will let you put a couple coats on today, but it will require a couple of top coats of a varnish with UV protectors, since it doesn't have any.

I've been experimenting with Bristol Finish, which only needs an hour or so between coats. However, it kicks so fast you have no time to brush it out. Lay it on, one stroke over and leave it alone or it will ball up on you. Ignore the videos the company puts out showing how easy it is to apply. IF you don't need to maintain a wet edge on a large area, it might be worth trying. I ended up spraying it, since I was working with a large area (inside a dinghy) and there was no way to apply it fast enough to maintain a wet edge.

Interlux Perfection Plus is a two part Polyurathane that can be overcoated in six hours at 73 deg.

I was just doing my cap rail and dorade boxes today and using Bristol. Delfin is correct that it gives you very little work time. I had a tough time with it until I started thinning it down about 10%. Only use Bristol thinner btw. Still drys quickly but gives a lot longer working time. I last did my cap rail 3 years ago and it still looks great but a few spots were showing some signs of deterioration so I thought I better add a couple extra coats. Mine is very shiny but I think you can buy a mat finish as well. I have tried teak oil, Cetol, Spar Varnish etc. but I wouldn't use anything else but Bristol now.

LaBomba said:

I was just doing my cap rail and dorade boxes today and using Bristol. Delfin is correct that it gives you very little work time. I had a tough time with it until I started thinning it down about 10%. Only use Bristol thinner btw. Still drys quickly but gives a lot longer working time. I last did my cap rail 3 years ago and it still looks great but a few spots were showing some signs of deterioration so I thought I better add a couple extra coats. Mine is very shiny but I think you can buy a mat finish as well. I have tried teak oil, Cetol, Spar Varnish etc. but I wouldn't use anything else but Bristol now.

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Thanks for the tip. I didn't try thinning because it seemed thin enough out of the pot. Do you think that it stays wet enough that you could do a piece, say two feet wide? Maybe more thinner?

Delfin said:

Thanks for the tip. I didn't try thinning because it seemed thin enough out of the pot. Do you think that it stays wet enough that you could do a piece, say two feet wide? Maybe more thinner?

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Yes I think you could. Big tub, big brush and keep a wet edge.

I was referring to Bristol or Awlwood. Which is really a two part urethane, I was typing to fast this morning and miss the fact that I had said epoxy. The added work is mixing, it is also more expensive. If you have more time than money then varnish is pretty cheap. I find I have less and less time so i’m More likely to spend the money.

I did eight coats of varnish and a year later I found the sun had burned through at least half of them. I just don’t have the time to do 4 coats a year and I hate paying others to do what Is often inferior work.

I always put on 3-4 coats of Cetol in a day. Of course I started with a very clean, smooth surface and stuff sanded between every 3rd or 4th coat. I like to put on a minimum of 6 coats and never had a lifting problem.

But if you want a fast drying varnish, you can add Japan dryer to most any natural varnish.

Just be aware most fast drying natural varnishes are high in thinners/solvents. So they tend to require more coats for longevity.

I have been using Bristol Finish Amber instead of varnish for years with good results. Best part is that you can apply another coat every 2 hours (temperature and humidity will effect this) Great instructions on their website) Apply at least 6 coats, more are better. (Bristol has UV filters) Refrigerate the catalyst bottle after opening as it will go bad faster if stored at room temp for several months. I found out the hard way.