Just discovered that the Balmar 3 step regulator has failed on my trawler! This is the 3rd such regulator on my last three boats that has failed. It also is built so that it cannot be repaired. Balmar stuff is basically expensive junk.:lol:
Balmar is junk
- Thread starter geoleo
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Were your regulators installed within the engine room or somewhere cooler? I have had 2 x twin sets of balmar regs, Centerfielders & duo chargers not because the 1st set failed but because I chose to upgrade when newer versions became available. I think they are high quality items & far from "junk"...but epoxy-potted electronics don't like heat. I wouldn't bother with Balmar alternators though...I'm a big fan of Leece Neville for that role.
Ski in NC
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Some Balmars (including my 100A unit) are basically Autolites (Ford) painted white. I use a Transpo (also Ford) regulator that is adjustable via a little pot on the unit. Regulator cost $35.00 and has been rock solid reliable.
I set volts to 13.8. A three step would be nice, but this is good enough. After a day of running when I go on the AC powered charger, the adsorption phase draws few amps, so batts are nearly topped up.
Seen a good number of Balmar regulators not functioning on boats I sea trial. Could be lightning, surges, maybe just a crappy unit, whatever. But that replacement cost is staggering.
I set volts to 13.8. A three step would be nice, but this is good enough. After a day of running when I go on the AC powered charger, the adsorption phase draws few amps, so batts are nearly topped up.
Seen a good number of Balmar regulators not functioning on boats I sea trial. Could be lightning, surges, maybe just a crappy unit, whatever. But that replacement cost is staggering.
jleonard
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So far mine has been fine for 5 years. Knock on wood.
It's located in the engine room but it lives in New England where it's a little cooler.
It's located in the engine room but it lives in New England where it's a little cooler.
O C Diver
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I've always thought Balmar regulators seemed pricey. Bought a Sterling regulator to use with my Leece Neville. First one died within 4 months. They sent me a second one before for I sent the first one back. Second one has been rock solid. There units look to have a substantial heat sink with a cooling fan to withstand engine room temperatures.
Ted
Ted
I had a Balmar on my last sailboat. At the time it was quite new, very pretty, with the board encased in resin, attached to a humungous finned heat sink. DId its job very well for the 5 or so years till I sold that boat.
When I went back into the market for my present boat, I ended up with Ample Power. Newer, but not nearly as pretty. Still going strong after 24 yrs.
When I went back into the market for my present boat, I ended up with Ample Power. Newer, but not nearly as pretty. Still going strong after 24 yrs.
YEP - I went ample power in my old ketch and it lasted 18 years and maybe more
YEP highly expensive jukaroo! and some units are just repainted Ford stuff marked up:lol: 500%
catalinajack
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The Bslmar Smart Gauge is a rebadged Merlin from England at double the price. You can get one from England delivered in no more than four days.
We bought the Merlin Samrt Gauge when we were in Fort Pierce this past February and saved $100 plus USD. I don’t remember who suggested it here on the Forum, but thank you!!!Can you say, “rebranding”?
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dhays
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FWIW, I am currently using two Balmar Duochargers on my boat. One for the genset battery and the other for the Thruster bank. Each has been on the boat for maybe around 7 years. I've had no problems with them EXCEPT, the Balmar chargers and controllers don't seem to get along well with the Cummins electronics. So don't use one for a start battery on a newer Cummins.
Delfin
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I believe my large frame Ample Power is a Leece Neville.....
Your point on cooling is well taken. I installed by Balmar regulator in a Carlon box along with a number of other relays, and put a small pancake fan on top to blow air into and out of the box.
Wxx3
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My Balmar regulator is on the roof of the engine room above the engine. Cetainly the hottest place it could have been in the entire boat.
Installed by the PO, it must be 15 years old, with 5,500 hours on it.
Never a problem or hiccup.
But like everything, new versions may not be as reliable.
Installed by the PO, it must be 15 years old, with 5,500 hours on it.
Never a problem or hiccup.
But like everything, new versions may not be as reliable.
Ken E.
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I've used two Balmar 3-stage regulators with a Balmar Centerfielder for the last 12 years. No problems so far.
Great example of how "fake news" is spread on the 'net. Not one jot of evidence offered for this damning statement which is at odds with the majority of the posts on this thread by actual users.
Just saying...
I have had 3 Balmar regulators fail. Is that evidence?
I'm actually defending them against overly generalized negatives.
Maine Sail has posted dozens of detailed comments and instructions for how they should be mounted and calibrated for a given setup to protect against overheating.
That factor is likely responsible for the vast majority of failures.
The MC-614 specifically has many protective features, but of course you need to use them properly.
But there certainly is enough accumulated recorded hive-mind experience across the forums to lay some of the blame on Balmar's design and/or QA processes.
I still wholeheartedly recommend their VRs when good profile adjustability is required, or with small-frame alts needing de-rating protection from high-CAR banks.
Maine Sail has posted dozens of detailed comments and instructions for how they should be mounted and calibrated for a given setup to protect against overheating.
That factor is likely responsible for the vast majority of failures.
The MC-614 specifically has many protective features, but of course you need to use them properly.
But there certainly is enough accumulated recorded hive-mind experience across the forums to lay some of the blame on Balmar's design and/or QA processes.
I still wholeheartedly recommend their VRs when good profile adjustability is required, or with small-frame alts needing de-rating protection from high-CAR banks.
jleonard
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dhays
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jleonard
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Thank you. Looks like I did some things right and a few wrong but it's working for me.
sunchaser
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So why cannot the Balmar regulators be placed in an ER? According to the information link noted by D Hays, no problem with 140F and the newer designs OK at 194F. Maybe in Death Valley with a dry stack heating up an ER will you see temperatures that exceed the above referenced numbers.
The issues noted with Balmar may well be ER ventilation problems.
The issues noted with Balmar may well be ER ventilation problems.
jleonard
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Mine is in the ER but I am a single engine with lots of room around the engine. I've taken temp readings a few times and I never got a reading above 120F (usually lower), so I'm good with ventilation.
I also have the belt manager set at 75% on a 70 amp Balmar alternator
diver dave
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That VR with the cracked epoxy coating scares me. Many manufacturers learned the hard way with surface mount components buried in epoxy. The epoxy is strong enough to defeat the solder connections on the small parts after many thermal cycles. I hope Balmar has done thermal shock cycles.
https://www.aitechnology.com/products/conformal-coatings/conformal-coatings-faq/#toggle-id-11
C lectric
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Thank you for posting that link. I do peruse CMS site but missed that.
When I get asked by friends I may be able to help them a bit more with that write up.
Thank you CMS for a great write up.
He, CMS, notes in the article that Balmar has started using a higher temp epoxy.
I suspect a LOT depends upon exactly where the unit is mounted. To near an exhaust manifold or other hot spot with no shield could do it. ALso radiated heat could cause the unit to heat more than would be expected from just ambient E.R. heat.
I suspect that a loose cover/shield over it, not an enclosure, may help. Open top and bottom.
I don't poke around other peoples E.R. the way I used to but I have seen some equipment mounted poorly and too close to the engine with no shield at all. Not just regulators.
When I get asked by friends I may be able to help them a bit more with that write up.
Thank you CMS for a great write up.
He, CMS, notes in the article that Balmar has started using a higher temp epoxy.
I suspect a LOT depends upon exactly where the unit is mounted. To near an exhaust manifold or other hot spot with no shield could do it. ALso radiated heat could cause the unit to heat more than would be expected from just ambient E.R. heat.
I suspect that a loose cover/shield over it, not an enclosure, may help. Open top and bottom.
I don't poke around other peoples E.R. the way I used to but I have seen some equipment mounted poorly and too close to the engine with no shield at all. Not just regulators.
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