Engine replacement

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BruceK said:
Dan,the OP reports that the engine is seized, and the boat unused for 6 years. It is "broke".
The boat has an ask of 79K, needs an engine and paint,and suffers 6 years disuse. Here is one that works and looks loved.Unfortunately located a distance from the OP but not far from me,asking 99K.
https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/blue-seas-36-flybridge-cruiser/213029
Click to expand...

Get a diesel mechanic down there. He may be able to disassemble the engine in place, un-seize it, put it all back together and make it work. Replacing the engine is the last thing I want to do. On a car, pull the hood, get the engine lift, pull the engine and take it to the bench. On a boat, not so easy. Get an estimate in time and money. In place they can pull off lots of parts hone the cylinders, maybe replace some sleeves and piston and maybe even the crank shaft but, the block stays in place. IF the mechanic say, "I can do it onboard, in place...." that is one thing. If he says, "I have to remove the engine.", toss him the keys and plan on wood work, reconstruction, yard fees etc. You can either hang around ringing your hands or take a cruise on a BIG boat.
 
BruceK said:
Dan,the OP reports that the engine is seized, and the boat unused for 6 years. It is "broke".
The boat has an ask of 79K, needs an engine and paint,and suffers 6 years disuse. Here is one that works and looks loved.Unfortunately located a distance from the OP but not far from me,asking 99K.
https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/blue-seas-36-flybridge-cruiser/213029
Click to expand...

I agree Bruce. There are better deals out there.
Here's another possibility.
https://yachthub.com/list/boats-for...anks-flybridge-cruiser-35-aquila-queen/216397
 
AusCan, I agree with you. The price is way too high if the engine needs replacement, totally.

Talk to the owner, be honest with him..... then low ball your offer, big time.
If he doesnt like it, walk away and dont look back. As I told my broker, "There will always be another boat."
 
Thanks guys you have all been a great help. The price has been reduced to 59k but with the amount of work required I wouldn't offer more than 30k. The oval Windows all leak rain with much damage to the teak in the v berth. The teak decks are in poor condition and a complete paint job is required. This as well as a seized engine. The boat in Sydney is very attractive and an even better one sold recently for 140k. I'm sure something will come up in the next month or three. In the mean time I have a yacht to sell. Again many thanks
 
Theduke1948 said:
Thanks guys you have all been a great help. The price has been reduced to 59k but with the amount of work required I wouldn't offer more than 30k. The oval Windows all leak rain with much damage to the teak in the v berth. The teak decks are in poor condition and a complete paint job is required. This as well as a seized engine. The boat in Sydney is very attractive and an even better one sold recently for 140k. I'm sure something will come up in the next month or three. In the mean time I have a yacht to sell. Again many thanks
Click to expand...

With all those known problems, you gotta remember there are the unknown problems.

Dont walk away, run away like the devil is chasing you.

If you feel very generous, offer him 1K.

Why do people let their boats deteriorate to the point that there is no way to sell it or in many cases, give it away.
 
May be able to “unsieze” the engine. If it’s seized from sitting and it sounds like that’s the case. If it’s siezed from gauled or siezed crankshaft bearings forget the treatment below.

Use “SeaFoam”. A product that was once called Risalone by the Shaler company. When I was a teenager I was given several outboards that were seized. I’d pour the stuff in the spark plug holes w the holes up. Leave sit for a day or so. Then w the engine sitting w the carbs up I’d pour the stuff into the crankcase. So the pistons got the Risaline treatment from both sides. Eventually the pistons would come loose and then the rings.

One could do the same w an FL. Need to get a path to the cylinders and I don’t think FL’s have heaters (glow plugs) so the injectors may need to be pulled. It’s a good idea to change oil shortly after the treatment as the oil will be diluted w SeaFoam. Or one may opt to run it a bit w the SeaFoam in the lube oil. It will make it a high detergent oil and it’s at least remotely possible the oil seals could be damaged over time. And maybe not. SeaFoam is recomended as an oil additive but w the treatment it could be a high concentration of SeaFoam. Another thought is to extract any SeaFoam remaining in any cylinder to gaurd against excessive compression when cranking w the starter motor. Probably all will drain down into the crankcase though.

Not much expense or trouble compared to R&R the engine. Could work.

And it’s possible the engine was in fair to even good shape before it siezed. Too much rust on the cylinder walls would probably render this treatment ineffective and a waste of time.

Oh .. just read about the condition of the boat. Forget it.
 
Doncha hate it when you pour out your best advice and experience only to discover, "On the other side of the boat, there is a 12 ft hole in the hull." and "It was only underwater for a couple of weeks." LOL


Nomad Willy said:
May be able to “unsieze” the engine. If it’s seized from sitting and it sounds like that’s the case. If it’s siezed from gauled or siezed crankshaft bearings forget the treatment below.

Use “SeaFoam”. A product that was once called Risalone by the Shaler company. When I was a teenager I was given several outboards that were seized. I’d pour the stuff in the spark plug holes w the holes up. Leave sit for a day or so. Then w the engine sitting w the carbs up I’d pour the stuff into the crankcase. So the pistons got the Risaline treatment from both sides. Eventually the pistons would come loose and then the rings.

One could do the same w an FL. Need to get a path to the cylinders and I don’t think FL’s have heaters (glow plugs) so the injectors may need to be pulled. It’s a good idea to change oil shortly after the treatment as the oil will be diluted w SeaFoam. Or one may opt to run it a bit w the SeaFoam in the lube oil. It will make it a high detergent oil and it’s at least remotely possible the oil seals could be damaged over time. And maybe not. SeaFoam is recomended as an oil additive but w the treatment it could be a high concentration of SeaFoam. Another thought is to extract any SeaFoam remaining in any cylinder to gaurd against excessive compression when cranking w the starter motor. Probably all will drain down into the crankcase though.

Not much expense or trouble compared to R&R the engine. Could work.

And it’s possible the engine was in fair to even good shape before it siezed. Too much rust on the cylinder walls would probably render this treatment ineffective and a waste of time.

Oh .. just read about the condition of the boat. Forget it.
Click to expand...
 
It’s OK Dan.
Lucky to find something to talk about these days.
Had a hard time finding this.
Should be in Power Systems.
But I see thae OP only had 8 posts. Sorry.
 
Last edited:
Good decision Duke. IMO repair cost exceeded price,before reduction.
The Blue Seas is similar to the IG 36,except the cockpit is tight, hardly room for a table and seating. Though that gives more interior space.
The Sydney boat had an ask of around 130K,I`d guess the owners are keen sellers. Good luck with your sale.
 
When I rebuilt my 120 Lehman I was thinking of doing the same and rebuilt my Lehman for a lot less. I was looking at bomac marine too and think it would have been cheaper way to go too. They have replacement Lehman’s too. I took it apart and sent to a machine shop and went to the next size pistons. Still have my old ones. Bought all the parts from American diesel. Not cheap but done.
 
Nomad Willy said:
It’s OK Dan.
Lucky to find something to talk about these days.
Had a hard time finding this.
Should be in Power Systems.
But I see thae OP only had 8 posts. Sorry.
Click to expand...

You're right good buddy - moved as suggested. Missed that one. :)
 
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