Help !! Can’t stop water

Mr. K That cover does appear to be an aftermarket "Speed Seal" but it's the end opposite the impeller that is of concern. Where to pump connects to the motor. The old style is prone to failure and as I said, is probably NOT worth re-building. Please provide a picture of the other end please.

Call a pro and have it looked at by someone who knows what he's looking at. It's the best money you'll ever spend.

There is a replacement ADC pump unit,which overcomes breakage risks of the drive tang. It has a geared drive. Not a totally R&R job, you have to blank off an oil passage(?). Costs about $500USD,($900AUD by the time mine got here). Many owners have fitted them as an improvement, yours sounds cactus, it`s a no brainer IMO.

think its time for a new one ,,, a call to American Diesel will be in order on Monday morning .. thank you all for your help .

PS: I believe this part is called a cooling pump ?? is that correct?

Raw water pump may be the term they use.

KEVMAR said:

New style ???

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A Johnson pump. Looks identical, fits perfectly. I recently changed on both Lehman 120s. Call Brian at American Diesel. He'll ship the same day. Reuse the bronze elbows from the existing pump.

Rebuild the Jabsco? Not the consensus among this group. Get a new Johnson.

Thanks jack I will call ��the pump I have now is a jabsco .,.. Do you remember how much the new pump costed?

FF said:

If the water continues , one solution is to pull the hose from the pump (you will need to do that to repair the pump anyway) and stick a dowel or anything into the hose and clamp tight.

When your at the boat store for pump parts , pick up a set of wooden emergency plugs made for emergency leak use.

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Great Advice!

The screws on my water pump (Sherwood) and the bolts on my heat exchanger flange were all brass on my engine. Exchanging them for SS b/4 they rotted away (Dezincafied) saved me a lot of grief.
For that matter, except for high strength bolts, every time I work on the engine, I replace replace the affected fasteners with SS If I have them or can get them nearby. In the long run this has saved be time and I feel like I'm sure I can get something apart on the water if I need to.
Just exchanging SS shakeproof nuts for rusty nuts and lockwashers is enough if you don't have the bolts at hand.

I second RT Firefly.
I've used Speedseal covers for years and they're great.
For my two cents worth, while you are at it I would remove the pump completely, strip it, put in new ceramic shaft seal & camshaft plate, then re-assemble using the Speedseal 'Run Dry' modification.
It works perfectly and I had occasion to test its run dry properties and confirm that it works as advertised.