Help !! Can’t stop water
- Thread starter KEVMAR
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Doug
Senior Member
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- Victoria, BC Canada
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- Timeless
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- CHB 34
Rescue tape might help.
In addition to applying tape... Make sure bilge pumps can be kept active as needed. Hopefully you [or a mechanic] can immediately [very soon at latest] easy out screw remains, [drill out if required]. Then tap new thread if needed and replace cover with gasket.
Can you post photos?
Can you post photos?
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. K. Don't panic! Unless your seacock is leaking (not likely BUT possible), the dripping water is most probably the residual cooling water left in the block above the level of the water pump. It should soon stop. If not, the above advice is applicable.
Mr. K. Don't panic! Unless your seacock is leaking (not likely BUT possible), the dripping water is most probably the residual cooling water left in the block above the level of the water pump. It should soon stop. If not, the above advice is applicable.
dhays
Guru
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I agree with RT. Once the seacock is closed the only water coming out would be flowing back from the engine.
FF
Guru
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If the water continues , one solution is to pull the hose from the pump (you will need to do that to repair the pump anyway) and stick a dowel or anything into the hose and clamp tight.
When your at the boat store for pump parts , pick up a set of wooden emergency plugs made for emergency leak use.
When your at the boat store for pump parts , pick up a set of wooden emergency plugs made for emergency leak use.
C lectric
Guru
3rd RT . THere will be water in the hoses and the heat exchanger.
When you start the repair take the pump off and to home to do the work.
Rig some kind of pan/foil/plastic to direct the remaining water into the bilge. Minimize what splashes around maybe onto wiring.
When you start the repair take the pump off and to home to do the work.
Rig some kind of pan/foil/plastic to direct the remaining water into the bilge. Minimize what splashes around maybe onto wiring.
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- FlyWright
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Yup...no worries. As mentioned, it's just the water sitting higher than the pump within the engine heat exchanger system hoses and the HX itself. If you pull the pump hose off, it'll all drain into a catch basin that you place under the hose.
C lectric
Guru
JUst had a thought????? If the screw head broke off and not the screw shank further down it may be possible to get ahold of the remaining shank with a pair of pliers and back it out.
That will require plate removal but not necessarily pump removal depending upon access.
Then replace ALL of the screws and also the gasket.
But if the pump has not been re/re for a few years then maybe time to do that.
That will require plate removal but not necessarily pump removal depending upon access.
Then replace ALL of the screws and also the gasket.
But if the pump has not been re/re for a few years then maybe time to do that.
sunchaser
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Kev
My 2 centavos worth -
Through hulls and raw water pumps can be a boater's nemesis.
Some consider RW pumps as ripe for a total rebuild or throw away once beyond 3,000 hours or 15 to 20 years. How old is yours?
It is common that barnacles and crap can prevent a through hull from closing all the way. These valves are cheap- take off, clean out or replace maybe at next haul out.
My 2 centavos worth -
Through hulls and raw water pumps can be a boater's nemesis.
Some consider RW pumps as ripe for a total rebuild or throw away once beyond 3,000 hours or 15 to 20 years. How old is yours?
It is common that barnacles and crap can prevent a through hull from closing all the way. These valves are cheap- take off, clean out or replace maybe at next haul out.
KEVMAR
Senior Member
I was warming up the engine to do a oil change and noticed water pouring from the water pump . I went to by HAND tighten the screws and they just snapped off two of them .. I’m very lucky it happened at the dock and not when we were in our cruise down and up the ICW
Attachments
Simi 60
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- Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
We had ours rebuilt 12 mths ago when the pulley started wobbling while on passage.
The firm that did the $700 rebuild tried to tell me they need doing every year
Given the size of the pump they may have thought we were an actual trawler doing 57 hours a week or 3000 a year.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. K. Hand screws? Do you, by any chance, have a Speed-Seal cover plate on your WP?
If so, I second Mr. ka's comment. I hope the rest of your fastenings don't look like that.
As far as removing your WP. Probably the hardest part will be removal of the rubber hoses. The rest is simple wrenching. Watch your knuckles. The pump is heavy. You may need a new gasket as well (WP to block).
Mr. K. Hand screws? Do you, by any chance, have a Speed-Seal cover plate on your WP?
If so, I second Mr. ka's comment. I hope the rest of your fastenings don't look like that.
As far as removing your WP. Probably the hardest part will be removal of the rubber hoses. The rest is simple wrenching. Watch your knuckles. The pump is heavy. You may need a new gasket as well (WP to block).
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Looking at what appears to be rusted/corroded [maybe just real dirty?? - but I think not] condition of those busted-off screw heads would tell me to check all over on the engine for other fasteners in similar "need-replacement" condition.
How old are those screws?
Best luck!
Art
How old are those screws?
Best luck!
Art
Maerin
Guru
Do you have a connection to the shaft log? Like a 3/8" hose from a small port on the pump that feeds the shaft log or a dripless seal. There's a connection that's real easy to overlook. Either put a small ball valve inline (NOT BRASS!!!) or probably more reliable, just gently clamp the hose between a smooth jaw vise-grip or a c-clamp on a pair of rounded pieces of wood. Just need to close off the hose to stop the flow without damaging the hose.
whats the rest of the engine look like ???
KEVMAR
Senior Member
Rest of engine looks good but I will check all connections anyway ... the cover plate had only 4 screws so I’m sure it was a quick fix at one point . I’m gonna get a rebuild kit with proper cover plate gasket and screws and impeller
High Wire
Guru
A rebuild kit won't help as the remainder of the 2 screw threads are still in the threaded holes. Based on the photo they look like they broke off below the pump body machined surface. So that means a new or rebuilt pump assembly unless you can somehow dig them out.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr.K. Mr. HW is absolutely correct. Looks like you'll have to pull the WP. IF you can't readily get the broken screws out, a good machine shop should be able to remove the stubs without causing pump ruination and necessitating replacement.
One bonus of removing the pump is you will be able to see whether or not it is the "old" style (I'm assuming a Lehman 120 HP) which are prone to breakage. IF it IS the old style, don't bother too much with repair unless you REALLY feel the need for a spare. Replace it with the "new" style available from American Diesel or Bomac.
Mr.K. Mr. HW is absolutely correct. Looks like you'll have to pull the WP. IF you can't readily get the broken screws out, a good machine shop should be able to remove the stubs without causing pump ruination and necessitating replacement.
One bonus of removing the pump is you will be able to see whether or not it is the "old" style (I'm assuming a Lehman 120 HP) which are prone to breakage. IF it IS the old style, don't bother too much with repair unless you REALLY feel the need for a spare. Replace it with the "new" style available from American Diesel or Bomac.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Mr. K. Whoa! I deleted my post. Get the correct information and #'s from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. I only know: Old style pump=bad. New style pump=better.
