How do you start you boat?

CPseudonym wrote:
*I have not seen many mention venting the engine room. Should I assume it is because most of you do not have gas engines?

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*Correctamundo.* Venting is necessary with gas engines no matter what kind of space they are in--- engine room, engine space under the aft cockpit floor, etc..* By the same token, electrical devices in the engine room of a gas boat--- pumps, motors,*switches, relays, etc.--- must be spark-proof.* Not so in*a diesel boat's engine room.

With a screwdriver.

Marin wrote:CPseudonym wrote:
*I have not seen many mention venting the engine room. Should I assume it is because most of you do not have gas engines?

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*Correctamundo.* Venting is necessary with gas engines no matter what kind of space they are in--- engine room, engine space under the aft cockpit floor, etc..* By the same token, electrical devices in the engine room of a gas boat--- pumps, motors,*switches, relays, etc.--- must be spark-proof.* Not so in*a diesel boat's engine room.

*Thanks for the clarification. I was unaware of the spark-proof thing on the electrical side. Makes sense though.

Bluetide wrote:
With a screwdriver.

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:smile:Been there- done that!

Venting???? What exactly do you mean???...vents or a ventillation system that includes a blower???...either way. even wit diesels the engine rooms need good ventillation... Diesels...especially turbo ones need huge quantities of fresh COOL air. many people don't run their blowers all the time...which in hot weather can be a mistake...one trip in a hot bay my engines kept overheating from the high engne room temps...the next day I ran the blowers and things were better but not till the third day when I hit the cooler ocean water.

1 check gear levers
2 click Sb, results in immediate vroom (at idle)

I usually start Sb first, as the alternator on the Sb powers only the start battery, so there is some tiny bit of alternator charge helping while I start Pt.

3 click Pt, 2nd vroom

No waiting between click and vroom, means I never have to listen to the alarms on startup.
By the time I have turned off the shore power and disconnected the cord, unhooked the lines, she is ready to go.

koliver wrote:
By the time I have turned off the shore power and disconnected the cord, unhooked the lines, she is ready to go.

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*I prefer to disconnect shore power before starting the engine.* Less likely to pull away while still connected.

*

Desired sequence of events:

Check engine fluids and condition
Crank Port engine
Check Oil press and alternator output
Crank Stbd engine
Check Oil press and alternator output
Check engine exhaust cooling water
Enjoy a nice day on the water

Actual sequence of events:

Check engine fluids and condition
Notice moisture on hull below water heater
Spend 5 mins finding loose connection and tightening hose clamp
Notice loose oil stick tube and make note to self to fix that before heading out next time
Back out of engine room and tweak back while exploring new contortionist position.
Limp up to helm to start engines
Crank Port engine
Check Oil press and alternator output
Notice loud squeal and low alternator voltage.
Stop Port engine
Return to ER to tighten alternator belt
Limp back up to helm to start engines
Restart port engine
Check Oil press and alternator output
Crank Stbd engine, but nothing happens....again!!
Check shifter in neutral and retry start with same results...(I've been meaning to trace that intermittent bad wire...)
Climb into the engine room AGAIN to jump the starter with the old screwdriver I have decided to keep there for this purpose
Crank Stbd engine
Back out of the ER and rip shirt on roughly installed cable wrap
Limp back up to the helm
Check Oil press and alternator output
Check engine exhaust cooling water
What's that rust doing in my stbd engine exhaust cooling water?
To hell with it, I'm going boating.
Back out of slip and forget all the above...

It seems a common point is to check the fluid levels before starting.* When we're done for the day, we always check the engine room and fluid levels so we are ready to go when ever.* Fluids are not*checked prior to*start*up.** Maybe we should have a thread on shutting the engine down?*

I doubt you check the coolant level on shut-down, Larry, that could lead to a spectacular geyser - and potential burns to yourself. I suspect you just mean oil and tranny levels. However, of all the fluids, surely the coolant is the more important and more likely lost. Especially from a small leak in a hose or join somewhere - often not visible, so surely must be checked cold before you start-up. That being the case why not at the same time check those other levels, which will be less affected by still being spread over engine or tranny internals, and at the same time you don't have to sweat it near a hot engine to do it...or risk a burn..?

Peter B wrote:
I doubt you check the coolant level on shut-down, Larry, that could lead to a spectacular geyser - and potential burns to yourself. I suspect you just mean oil and tranny levels. However, of all the fluids, surely the coolant is the more important and more likely lost. Especially from a small leak in a hose or join somewhere - often not visible, so surely must be checked cold before you start-up. That being the case why not at the same time check those other levels, which will be less affected by still being spread over engine or tranny internals, and at the same time you don't have to sweat it near a hot engine to do it...or risk a burn..?

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Peter:* You're right, I don't check the coolant level hot.* But I do engine/room checks every time I shut the engine off.* I want to know if I have any issues in the "holy"*room and*I want to see what things look like.* I sleep*a lot easier at the the end of a passage knowing the bilge looks good, belt conditions are OK, no melted wires, oil and transmission fluids/coolers have not exchanged salt water for fluids, etc.* I want to know if I do have to make repairs, based on what they are, if they will*affect our ability to leave the next day or even start the engine that night if the weather turns.

Now you have me thinking on how often I do check the coolant*levels?

Lots of the potential trouble from coolant disappearing can be avoided w a Murphy switch. Mine is on the side of the exhaust manifold and if the coolant level gets low (before it's low enough to cause the temperature of the system to rise) a buzzer goes off. It's plumbed w pipe fittings and hoses to the exhaust manifold. But I think it could just as well be mounted to a nearby bulkhead or whatever. An excellent safety device. In the picture the Murphy switch is the red/orange and white thing on the side of the manifold. A piece of bar steel was welded to the exhaust manifold that had drilled and tapped (threaded) holes w the right spacing for the Murphy's mounting hole spacing. There is a clear glass/plastic "window" on the side of the Murphy so one can check the coolant level when the engine is hot or even running * ...if you can see it. I need a mirror for mine. I like to check my oil and coolant like Peter ..when cold. The oil level is only correct at that time and it's real easy to pop off the coolant cap and look at the coolant inside the manifold.

A spotless bilge is an excellent early warning sign when odd drips appear. Check the bilge as well as fluid levels prior to lighting up.


-- Edited by sunchaser on Monday 31st of October 2011 08:51:56 AM

nomadwilly wrote:
Lots of the potential trouble from coolant disappearing can be avoided w a Murphy switch. Mine is on the side of the exhaust manifold and if the coolant level gets low (before it's low enough to cause the temperature of the system to rise) a buzzer goes off. It's plumbed w pipe fittings and hoses to the exhaust manifold. But I think it could just as well be mounted to a nearby bulkhead or whatever. An excellent safety device. In the picture the Murphy switch is the red/orange and white thing on the side of the manifold. A piece of bar steel was welded to the exhaust manifold that had drilled and tapped (threaded) holes w the right spacing for the Murphy's mounting hole spacing. There is a clear glass/plastic "window" on the side of the Murphy so one can check the coolant level when the engine is hot or even running * ...if you can see it. I need a mirror for mine. I like to check my oil and coolant like Peter ..when cold. The oil level is only correct at that time and it's real easy to pop off the coolant cap and look at the coolant inside the manifold.

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*The liquid level switch is pretty cool...have'm on one of our salvage vessels.

The main reason I like an initial check of stuff at the end of the day is it gives me all night to correct or arrange for help in the early AM.* The needs of a delivery captain.

but I still check in the morning when everything is more steady state.

I don't like checking the engine room soon after shutting down.* It's dang hot in there, so my checks are cursory unless there is an issue.* When inspecting before start-up, there is less pressure to get out of there.

nomadwilly wrote:
Lots of the potential trouble from coolant disappearing can be avoided w a Murphy switch....

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*Eric: What a great idea.* I've heard (read) you and FF refer to them in the past.* It's now on my to do list.*


-- Edited by Larry M on Monday 31st of October 2011 12:33:37 PM

"How do you start you boat? "

I turn the key to the start position. The engine starts and I let the key spring back to the run position.

I guess that seems simple, but I have a pretty simple boat.

rwidman wrote:
I guess that seems simple, but I have a pretty simple boat.

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*After reading this entire *thread would you do anything different now?

SD

skipperdude wrote:
*After reading this entire *thread would you do anything different now?

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No.*

I'll attempt to start at idle--- once, but that ignores factory recommendations, so I'll go back to the old way.

skipperdude wrote:
*After reading this entire *thread would you do anything different now?

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*No

Three*hours ago I started my engines and took the boat out for a* short ride. I must admit, this thread never crossed my mind as I did the same old routine.