Foot Switch to Control anchor Windlass?

Hello All,

I am ready to pull the trigger on a powered windlass with combination chain/rope gypsy. Should I presume that a up/down foot switch at the bow is the way to go - possibly in conjunction with a remote from the bridge? Or is another control type at the bow better?

I've only ever seen foot switches at the bow, or a helm switch or both.

I have controls at both helms but not at the bow. Have decided to add a wireless remote instead of foot switches. Reason-use anywhere on boat and less holes in deck.

When I installed my windlass I put control switches at both helms. After just once trying to tell my wife "up" or "down", I ordered foot switches for the bow. Fortunately I had the foresight to run the wires when I installed the windlass.

The bow switches are the only ones I use. I have to go to the bow anyway to release the line that keeps the load off the windlass so it's easier you just control the windlass from there while I am there anyway.

Make sure you buy a windlass that uses a contactor (relay) so the full windlass power doesn't have to go through the foot switches.

if you have a good helmsman and anchor puller, I like foot controls at the winch but have gone through 2 sets in 4 years.

I am leaning to almost totally use the helm switch and a wireless remote for when I need to be forward.

If I had only one place to put switches, it would be foot switches at the bow. But that works with two people anchoring: one at the helm and another at the bow.

If you need to anchor single handedly, then you need foot switches at the bow and a rocker switch at the lower helm. That way you can power forward and pick up chain at the same time or deploy chain and back down. You always need switches at the bow to deploy and retrieve a snubber.

And I have always found an all chain rode much easier than a rope/chain rode to deploy and retrieve, especially single handed.

And finally some small windlasses that draw less than 50 amps do not have solenoids. So if you want to install a helm rocker switch you will need to run fairly big wire, #4 or #6 depending on the length of run. Solenoids reduce that draw significantly.

David

Thank you all for quick responses. I really appreciate the insights.

Schaefer,
There are literally tons of useful info down in this anchoring folder, enough to anchor an aircraft carrier! One example:
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s4/locating-windlass-breaker-switch-31122.html

I ditched the foot switches for safety reasons, went radio and at-helm control.

schaefferoil said:

should i presume that a up/down foot switch at the bow is the way to go - possibly in conjunction with a remote from the bridge?

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yes

I have foot switches and find it easiest to wash the rode and anchor down with controls on the bow. The admiral bumps the boat forward while I am bringing it in.


I also have switches on the bridge and lower salon helm.

Keen for a remote setup to use from the portugese bridge vs inside wheelhouse but our solenoid setup is in the front cabin.
Do you reckon those remotes would have a good enough signal to shoot through the deck?

Have foot switches at the bow only, when running mixed rides the nylon line can hang up in the transition between chain and my low (in the splice) and once in a while the nylon can stick in the chain wheel and run up under the stripper, really jamming the windlass.

Then you wind up partially disassembling the windlass to get it operational again. I therefore tend it closely while standing on the bow (only). If you had all chain it probably would be fine to operate from the helm, but not in my situation.

I have both but mostly use the pedals adjacent to the windlass, particularly during recovery so am able to inspect and clean the chain and anchor. Before lowering, I need to go to the bow anyway to unsecure the windlass and anchor.

Simi 60 said:

Keen for a remote setup to use from the portugese bridge vs inside wheelhouse but our solenoid setup is in the front cabin.
Do you reckon those remotes would have a good enough signal to shoot through the deck?

Click to expand...

I recently bought this wireless remote which is made for off road winches

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Rem...18724759&sr=8-5&keywords=winch+remote+control

Cheaper than marine models and works fine from anywhere on the boat.

Doug said:

I recently bought this wireless remote which is made for off road winches

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Rem...18724759&sr=8-5&keywords=winch+remote+control

Cheaper than marine models and works fine from anywhere on the boat.

Click to expand...

me too....works great but....my batteries ran out fast from the order...keep a few extra aboard.

I need 24v so the amazon one is out but this eBay one should be similar

https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/RECOVERY-...139098&hash=item3f901526fe:g:T5cAAOSwYeRaRN8W

At $13 its worth a try, just hope it can shoot through several inches of wood

I hate foot switches, expensive and always seem to break. Plus more holes in the deck. I have a wired switch at the helm and a wireless remote for when I'm doing bow work.

alesnloggers said:

I hate foot switches, expensive and always seem to break. Plus more holes in the deck. I have a wired switch at the helm and a wireless remote for when I'm doing bow work.

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I like the WIRED remote with the coil cord. You can't drop it overboard and loose it. It does require a plug in; my last boat I put it just inside the hatch.

I've had foot switches too. Ungarded,without the swing cover, it is possible for someone to accidently hit the UP, and stress the system a bit. Overall, hand switches are easier to "navigate" than two foot switches that you are not looking at.

but foot switches free up hands that can be used to do other things.... definitely a tradeoff.

And you can't lose a footswitch or drop it overboard. And it doesn't have batteries to go dead.

but having gone through the origonal foot switch and 2 replacements in 4 years, foot switches are on my shi* list.

At least till I find suitible ones or a knee switch I can mount on my sampson post or a plug in, portable foot switch thst doesnt get bathed in salt water all year.

My winch and motor are on deck. I use a plug in foot switch used for industrial equipment.
If you're burning out foot switches, use a relay.

I have both helm switches as well as foot switches at the bow. I use the foot switches more often.

psneeld said:

but foot switches free up hands that can be used to do other things.... definitely a tradeoff.

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True, assuming you can reach the foot switch from where you need your free hands...

aboatman said:

And you can't lose a footswitch or drop it overboard. And it doesn't have batteries to go dead.

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There's these modern inventions called a piece of string and rechargeable batteries that'll take care of that.

I only have helm switches, and have never felt the need for a deck switch near the anchor. I don't mind ducking back and forth a bit via the pilot door to put on or take off snubbers etc. It helps keep me fit. And if one has to anchor, or leave an anchorage in snotty weather, I just luuurve being able to do it all from the shelter and warmth of the main helm.

psneeld said:

...

I am leaning to almost totally use the helm switch and a wireless remote for when I need to be forward.

Click to expand...

Wired helm plus wireless remote.

Simi 60 said:

There's these modern inventions called a piece of string and rechargeable batteries that'll take care of that.

Click to expand...

Rechargeable batteries (the small ones like AA and AAA) are the worst and you have to remember to recharge them. If you use a piece of string on your wireless remote you might as well use a wired remote and do away with the batteries.

Foot switches can't get lost and have no batteries to replace or recharge. They are always where they were last time you used them and leave your hands free for washing the rode or hanging on to the boat.

Peter B said:

I only have helm switches, and have never felt the need for a deck switch near the anchor. I don't mind ducking back and forth a bit via the pilot door to put on or take off snubbers etc. It helps keep me fit. And if one has to anchor, or leave an anchorage in snotty weather, I just luuurve being able to do it all from the shelter and warmth of the main helm.

Click to expand...

That would be nice and I have gotten soaked pulling up my anchor, but my windlass manufacturer cautions that the rode must be tied off independently of the windlass when anchored or underway so if it's raining when I want to anchor or leave, I still have to go to the bow.

Foot switches do lead a harsh life on some boats, while I prefer them, I have not had much luck with them.

I may try one last set but mount them higher and on a 45 degree angle to shed water better.