Electric stove to Propane

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2 50A 125/250V.....pretty common on 48 to 50 feet plus.
Above my pay grade. 100 amps is a lotta juice, I don’t care who you are.:socool:
 
We have a 4 burner propane cooktop and a Samsung portable induction plate .The propane burners are next to hopeless and dont give off 1/4 of the hear a home kitchen cook top dose .The induction is FAST and hot so it now gets used 99% of the time .
 
My insurance company never asked what kind of stove I have nor who has done the work. Interesting.....

Right, I wouldn't ask or tell the insurance company unless my policy requires that I do so. I've never seen one that requires approval to make modifications or enhancements. But I have seen language about working begin done to standards.

I would figure out how the installation will be done according to ABYC standards, then once satisfied, proceed. I agree with others that the propane locker might be tricky, but there are pre-made lockers available, provided you have a good plate to locate it. Routing of the gas hoses and valve control wires I expect will be the next challenge.

Then to cover your butt in case of a future insurance or other dispute, I would have ABYC compliance written into the work order if you hire it out. Or I'd arrange for a surveyor to inspect and certify that the installation meets ABYC standards. That would be your get out of jail free card if there were ever a problem and insurance tried to blame you and your installation. Many will point at anything to get out of or reduce a claim.
 
Actually unless you have 220V appkiances, 2 50A 125/250V services will bring in almost 200A.

But usually hoats that big startt to add up the 220V appliances and luxuries.


My friends 55 Viking had more room in the pilothouse, galley and half of his saloon than I have in my whole boat.

Add air conditioning to 4 staterooms below, washer/driers, watermakers, hair driers, a huge all electric galley with dishwasher, trash compactor, ete...etc...etc...

And those amps get eaten up just like any normal house.

Just because a boat has less square feet than a normal house doesnt mean that it uses less electricity.

Unless you are boat camping or like many of us with 40 something trawlers that just dont have the space for all those electrical conveniences.
 
We have a 4 burner propane cooktop and a Samsung portable induction plate .The propane burners are next to hopeless and dont give off 1/4 of the hear a home kitchen cook top dose .The induction is FAST and hot so it now gets used 99% of the time .

That is exactly the conclusion I came to after a year of the single countertop induction unit. So now, 2 burner inset inductive, got the propane out of the way, got smooth countertop as a big plus and if for some reason we need 3 burners there is the counter top unin in the locker.
 
PS...good point.
 
The safety part is well covered.

Do think about ventilation. Burning propane releases vast amounts of water vapor. Good ventilation is the key to avoiding the rainforest effect inside the boat.
 
A plus of propane/LPG(Liquid Petroleum Gas) is the redundancy. Our 3 burner SMEV stove has an LPG powered oven and grill. There is a separate bbq grill with its own supply bottle. But we also have electric kettle, microwave oven,and electric frypan with glass lid which can function as an oven, all powered by genset/shorepower.
Our LPG set up is 2 4kg bottles connected to the supply system, one bottle selected at a time. Appropriately located and ventilated. When one bottle is empty we switch to the other and take the empty one for refill, one bottle lasts plenty of time to allow for the refill.
 
Cooktop: 1800 Watts/120volts=15 amps... ok for your breaker. Microwave/convection: 900W/120=7.5 amps.

Some juggling may be necessary while cooking if on 30 amps at the dock. With 5kw or more on Genset should not be an issue. With 30amps should you try using all your appliances, the ac, water heater, All refrigeration. A hair dryer or two along with your toaster oven then yeah, Houston; we have a problem.

I have a 30 amp boat. Planning on going split 50 one of these days and breaking off the air conditioning, perhaps the water heater to another set of optional/stand alone breakers. Refrigeration and everything else is 12volt except water heater and ac. TV and assorted entertainment devices are on inverter 1.5kw. In 3 years only thrown a breaker a couple times and never the main. Wife+hair dryer+ toaster oven or small space heater will do it, Yep every time. :lol: time to adjust. Works for me

Worse case, I go outside and cook on grill and/fryer burner. My genset is very quite however.

Notice Safety was never mentioned. I have sniffer\ alarm and solenoid. I prefer the inductive set up. Now I have the safety devices and 2 aluminum 30lb tanks not needed. As for running Genset, that is what it is for; cooking as a general rule is of short time duration. Good time to cook, top off the batteries, hot shower and so forth.

I do have 1300+ amps of battery fed by both 60amp charger and 750wats of solar.

My 3 burner electric stove has a 20amp breaker but, dont try 3 burners and oven. MAYBE 2 burners and the oven.
I do have the ability to use my microwave on the inverter, if necessary, and that has saved my cooking a number of times.
 
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"Just because a boat has less square feet than a normal house doesnt mean that it uses less electricity."

For their size houses have less glass area (that might be double pane) and vastly better insulation than most boats.

Insulation takes up room on a vessel that few are willing to part with.

How fancy ( 1500W $150 square wave vs 3000W $1,500+ sine wave ) an inverter does it take to run an induction hot plate?
 
I wonder if induction plates suffer the same power drop microwave magnetrons do with square wave inverters.

My inverters always ran on square waves OK, but at reduced power.
 
We have a 4 burner propane cooktop and a Samsung portable induction plate .The propane burners are next to hopeless and dont give off 1/4 of the hear a home kitchen cook top dose .The induction is FAST and hot so it now gets used 99% of the time .

My experience is just the opposite. My propane burners (Force 10 propane range, common on boats) heat hotter than my natural gas burners on my home stove. Enough hotter that we have to be careful not to burn food.
 
Replacing an electric range with a propane range on a boat can be done but it's not just a matter of finding one to fit. The ABYC has very strict specifications on propane installations and for your own safety (forget about insurance companies), they should be followed to the letter.

While an advanced DIYer could do this installation, for most people, a licensed pro would be the best choice. Figure at least $2K for materials plus labor.
 
Replacing an electric range with a propane range on a boat can be done but it's not just a matter of finding one to fit. The ABYC has very strict specifications on propane installations and for your own safety (forget about insurance companies), they should be followed to the letter.

While an advanced DIYer could do this installation, for most people, a licensed pro would be the best choice. Figure at least $2K for materials plus labor.
ABYC may have stricts recommendations most of them are common sense and pretty simple. I do not see much trouble in these.

L
 
I don't see any problem doing your own propane installation if you have the skills. Of course it needs to be properly, but its easier cheaper, & simpler than an engine replacement or a wiring upgrade.

Any major work done poorly on a boat can be dangerous and affect your insurance. Installing a propane stove is no different.

I don't have propane or electric. I still have the original non pressurised alcohol stove, plus a portable butane stove as backup. I like the alcohol stove, although it is dangerous for those who have never used them previously. Once you know how to light them properly, they are simple to operate. An electric stove would be my last choice for cooking.
 
I had an RV cooktop/oven using propane. The oven pilot light was a PITA. It went out when the solenoid was activated, and then when using the cooktop you had to relight the oven pilot light or it would trigger the alarm after a few minutes. I ditched the unit. The oven made the boat interior too hot anyway. I installed an ENO 3 burner marine cooktop which is really good. For oven now I use the Zeigler & Brown BBQ on the boat deck.

I imported my boat from the USA to Queensland. We have strict rules here - a propane certificate from a licensed installer is required to register a boat, or to sell a boat. The local rules are essentially identical to the ABYC, so I had the guys in the USA go over the system. This made the local certifiers job quite easy. Part of work in the US was on the propane locker and a new hose run (with Australian & New Zealand compliance stamped on it). Even then the local certifier required me to replace virtually new US regulators and solenoid with ones that had Australian & New Zealand Standard stamps on them. But I do sleep well knowing that all is in order, and that I have paperwork to back that up.

I would never DIY propane install, even though it is not complicated. Installers are not genius whiz kids, they just know all the rules. And (here at least) are legally on the hook for any issues.
 
Definitely use a qualified LPG/propane installer. Mine was so good he could get the incompatible threads he used to seal!
In Sydney I recommend Gameco on Parramatta Rd Lidcombe. They are expert suppliers in all things LPG(and mains supply),know their stuff, refill bottles cheaper than the bottle exchange suppliers, and can test, service, and re-certify gas bottles. They can even re-tap threads so they really are compatible.
Sometimes you want to keep the bottles which have supports retaining them, test and recertification is needed after 10 years.
 
My wife and I are looking for a Trawler to live aboard part time in Florida. We both love to cook and gas/propane is our desired choice. Have seen some potential boats online, but with electric stove/oven - not our choice. How difficult is it to go from an electric stove/oven to propane - anyone done it. Seems like the unit sizes are the same, need a gas line run and tanks. Would also like a BBQ outside and a propane burner next to it . Electric stove/oven is a deal breaker for us, but how difficult is it to convert ? Thanks, M&J


If this criterion is knocking too many otherwise nice boats off your list of possibles...

You might also consider replacing an existing electric cooktop (if you find otherwise candidates with those) with an induction cooktop... and then just doing all your propane cooking outdoors with whatever grill you might like. Weather in FL -- and most other places except for maybe dead of winter -- could support that (and assuming marinas don't disapprove).

Seems to me for the oven part of it, electric and propane are pretty much equivalent?

Just a thought... since I know sometimes one criterion or another can play havoc with shopping. :)

-Chris
 
Seems to me for the oven part of it, electric and propane are pretty much equivalent?

Just a thought... since I know sometimes one criterion or another can play havoc with shopping. :)

-Chris

I can only speak for my last 2 Force 10 electric 3 burner stoves. The oven seems to have a significant and almost unacceptable temperature swing. A technician came out to adjust the over and broke the stove. I was not a happy camper.
 
We have a 4 burner propane cooktop and a Samsung portable induction plate .The propane burners are next to hopeless and dont give off 1/4 of the hear a home kitchen cook top dose .The induction is FAST and hot so it now gets used 99% of the time .

If your propane stove isn't getting as hot as it should, it's probably related to delivery; low pressure makes a HUGE difference. Propane should be delivered to the appliance at 11" of water column, 10" nominal. A check of pressure at the appliance can be done with a basic gauge that will read pressure in inches of water column, or with the use of a manometer. A manometer can actually be fabricated from tubing and a measuring tape. The simplest way to check is to remove the threaded orifice "jet" from the burner and insert a tapered adapter for the gauge hose. It's quite common for the tank regulator to be out of calibration, or defective. They're not a high ticket item, and I'd bet that the majority of regulators in service have never been properly set. Adjusting the regulator should be integral to any service related to the LP system. If you know how to do it, it's a simple 10 minute process. If you don't know, get help from someone who does. There's no latitude for experimental learning with LP!
 
I can only speak for my last 2 Force 10 electric 3 burner stoves. The oven seems to have a significant and almost unacceptable temperature swing. A technician came out to adjust the over and broke the stove. I was not a happy camper.


Interesting. I wonder why the temp swings...

Our onboard "oven" is a combination convection/microwave thing... so I don't really have any hands-on experience with any of the "modern" electric boat ovens.

Ours works like a champ, near as we can tell, in either convection, microwave, or combination modes... but it's likely very different from the Force 10 things...

-Chris
 
Interesting. I wonder why the temp swings...

Our onboard "oven" is a combination convection/microwave thing... so I don't really have any hands-on experience with any of the "modern" electric boat ovens.

Ours works like a champ, near as we can tell, in either convection, microwave, or combination modes... but it's likely very different from the Force 10 things...

-Chris

Oh yea very different. I really should make a decision either 2 burner induction stove top and a convection/microwave oven or new electronic. LOL
 

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