South Florida Bottom Paint Questions

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Here at the shipyard where I work we paint the bottoms of large yachts all the time. The first question the paint foreman has is, "What kind of paint is on the bottom now?" He wants to make sure that the new bottom paint will be compatible to the old bottom paint. For some of the larger boats if the current paint is not known, a sample of the old bottom paint is sent to Interlux or other paint manufacturer for analysis.
A little research on the manufacturers website might give you the right information.
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That's a really big catamaran!! I like the asymmetric hulls......:rofl:
 
Parks and I keep our boats in brackish water (engines and bottom and I find Trinidad works best. !

With 25 years of DIY bottom jobs in S FL I will agree. Trinidad works better than any ablative or even other epoxy paints.

But, "with all majic you will pay a price". In this case, sanding off epoxy on vast surfaces of FB got old very quickly. AND, its the metal running gear that takes the first hit on hard growth. So, for me, its Trinidad on all below water metal, requiring that full, old film removal at 12 to 18 months. On the hull, its a high end ablative (with anti-slime hopefullly) that will NOT need sanding at the haulings, only a pressure blast and a few touch ups with a coarse scotch brite. Worked for me.
 
Hi David

We don’t have it yet but it will look like the current boat only larger, more room to party in Ft Pierce and even Ted will like this engine room.

Diver Dave we use Trinidad and the metal gets prop speed. Last boat went 16years before sandblasting.
 
Diver Dave. Where are you located? Do you dive the Miami River?
 
Diver Dave. Where are you located? Do you dive the Miami River?

I don't dive professionally. And, I've never dove the Miami River for pleasure! Not that I fear it, just never have. I have jumped into lots of interesting places over the years.

I'm having a time out now in Fairport, NY.
 
Sorry, I thought you might be a professional and I cou,d send some business your direction. No one would dive the river for pleasure, we see chickens, goats, ect floating by after being Santeria offerings. LOL
 
Parks

Losing Possum is an opportunity to have Possum Too, your retired and should spend some of that Sale of HC money on Parks. My crew convinced me you only live once so we offered on a larger GB, it was accepted so tomorrow we go to survey and sea trial. This is the second sea trial for us in two weeks, first one we rejected. My gut tells me this is going to be ours (now to write the check).

My point is if I can do it you can too. Your younger, have more money, look a lot better and drink more beer so it should be an easy decision for you. LOL

GBs are beautiful boats. The only down side it the outside teak.
I learned my 'teak lesson' with my Nordhavn 46. It had 6-8 teak hull/rail caps.

Enjoy your boat <SMILE>
 
With 25 years of DIY bottom jobs in S FL I will agree. Trinidad works better than any ablative or even other epoxy paints.

But, "with all majic you will pay a price". In this case, sanding off epoxy on vast surfaces of FB got old very quickly. AND, its the metal running gear that takes the first hit on hard growth. So, for me, its Trinidad on all below water metal, requiring that full, old film removal at 12 to 18 months. On the hull, its a high end ablative (with anti-slime hopefullly) that will NOT need sanding at the haulings, only a pressure blast and a few touch ups with a coarse scotch brite. Worked for me.

You guys talking about Trinidad SR? hard or ablative...?
 
Old Dan

I agree, I like teak on everyone’s boat but mine. The new boat has a teak rear deck and steps up to the bridge and the will be left a beautiful natural shade of gray. I’ve found the cap rails finished in Awl Brite are beautiful for a year in the hot Miami sun with just a touch up of a coat or two once every year - year and a half.
 
I tried ablative paint years ago but it never lasted a year in South Florida on a boat that cruised at 20 knots and was used about 100 days per year.
 
I tried ablative paint years ago but it never lasted a year in South Florida on a boat that cruised at 20 knots and was used about 100 days per year.

Yeah, I also cruised at 20kts. It took 2 new complete coats at hauling, and that was over the existing paint film that was left. It lasted 2x what Trinidad did on the running gear, so yes, Prop Speed is the trick ticket there.

Of course, you can't be rubbing the hull routinely with ablatives.
 
The reason I ask is that we're contemplating a move of the boat to the FL area eventually. In our case, we mostly cruise 7 kts, but rarely can push up to 15 kts. We have a hard AF paint now. Given this and that we're averaging a slower speed, would you still recommend Trinidad SR, or something else for Florida...?
 
The reason I ask is that we're contemplating a move of the boat to the FL area eventually. In our case, we mostly cruise 7 kts, but rarely can push up to 15 kts. We have a hard AF paint now. Given this and that we're averaging a slower speed, would you still recommend Trinidad SR, or something else for Florida...?

I would. Some might not. But the popularity of Trinidad SR speaks volumes. Just need to be sure it's compatible to your old paint, and it very likely is.
 
I would too, after 50years of having boats in Florida I’m so,d on Trinidad. However I would ask questions of a yard near where your planning on keeping your boat and ask their opinion. Local knowledge is hard to beat.
 

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