Roof water diverters

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Pack Mule

TF Site Team
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Jan 24, 2013
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USA
Vessel Name
Slo-Poke
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Jorgensen custom 44
I made some new teak roof water diverters . I don't know what else to call them . The others were just some standard shoe mold that had rotted out . I made these about twice the size . We install them with caulk and screws from the bottom with fender washers . Now we're just waiting on the caulk to dry so we can remove the tape. Will they get varnished ? I don't know .
 

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Greetings,
Mr. PM. Dandy idea and nicely done! I've been trying to figure out a "system" to divert and/or redirect rainwater from our FB as well and have considered a modification similar to what you have. I am quite hesitant to screw from the bottom as I do not want to puncture the top FRP skin with the potential of leakage.

ONE of my other alternative solutions might be to glue some "J" track on the side of the overhang but thus far I've been unable to source what I think I want...
 
Greetings,
Mr. 11. EXACTLY the profile I want but not wide or deep enough. I think the 1/2" would be very quickly overcome with the amount of run-off I have. Now, IF I could get the same profile say, 1" wide and 1" deep, that may do the job...Thanks very much.

There are also the 2 options of directing the run off to the aftmost section (sloping down from fore to aft-so all water would drain at the back) of the FB OR to the center of the FB (sloping down from both fore AND aft to a drain point amidships-so that all water would drain in the middle). If I elect to go with middle drainage I would also have to incorporate an extended "spout" so the flow/drippage would clear the handrail and gunwale...
 
Greetings,
Mr. PM. Dandy idea and nicely done! I've been trying to figure out a "system" to divert and/or redirect rainwater from our FB as well and have considered a modification similar to what you have. I am quite hesitant to screw from the bottom as I do not want to puncture the top FRP skin with the potential of leakage.

ONE of my other alternative solutions might be to glue some "J" track on the side of the overhang but thus far I've been unable to source what I think I want...
Come on man , I drill holes in my boat weekly. I always offer to drll holes in dock neighbors boats but they decline . That's the reason I bought an old work boat so I could do what I wanted . It's still the boat that they all want to hang out on cause they don't want to spill drinks on theirs. Oh yeah and I also used the devils caulk . It can be somebody else's problem later on .
 
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I use J track vinyl strips from HD or Lowes they are attached with Scotch double sided tape. They work fine, keeping rain water or dew from dripping at the doors. The tape lasts a couple of years, then I pull it all off and replace the works for a few bucks, not the prettiest solution but works fine.
 

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Greetings,
Mr. S. Yup, looked at that stuff as well. Not quite what I want...If I could find a larger version of what Mr. 11 suggested (post #3) I'd much prefer that.
 
Greetings,
Mr. S. Yup, looked at that stuff as well. Not quite what I want...If I could find a larger version of what Mr. 11 suggested (post #3) I'd much prefer that.
RT, I've seen a larger version somewhere before . It was designed especially for boats . I've been trying to find it on Mr Google since you mentioned it
yesterday . I'll keep searching.
 
Greetings,
Mr. PM. Thanks very much. THAT particular project is on hold at the moment because when I was ready to proceed with the diversion of the FB run-off I couldn't find the "gutter" profile I was specifically looking for.
 
I decided to have a couple drinks yesterday instead of using my best hour of opportunity to remove the tape and caulk . Now I'm humming " Sunday Morning Sidewalk " . I guess the Devils' glue got me one more time .You can see I predrilled one hole a little too deep.
 

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Greetings,
Mr. PM. I see you've got too much time on your hands. I would suggest you varnish your "diverter" (at least 10 coats!). Paint will simply be a done deal with little opportunity to fret over your brightwork. You know, idle hands are the devil's plaything....

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The Eagle is a wide body, I installed rain gutters the full length of the pilot house. I made them out of house plastic down spouts with one side cut out. The down spout is 1" hose so the water goes over board not touch the boat. I also made diveters to divert the water in to the gutters. That was 20 years ago when we bought the boat and they still work great.

In addition I install plexa glass over the salon windows so water does not touch the Windows and hold in the heat during the winter making the boat warmer and less air drafts. All external teak is varnish.
 
On a similar note I installed aluminium 'J' section above the windows on our boat.
Boat windows tend to leak over time and the 'J' section keeps the water away from the top join and channels water away clear from the frame.
I bought the 'J' section of anodised aluminium in a good DIY store and attached it with sealant and screws and its done a good job stopping a couple of annoying leaks that defied tracing and 2 bottles of Captain Jolly's Creeping Crack cure.
 
Greetings,
Mr. PM. I see you've got too much time on your hands. I would suggest you varnish your "diverter" (at least 10 coats!). Paint will simply be a done deal with little opportunity to fret over your brightwork. You know, idle hands are the devil's plaything....

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You are the motivator RT . After removing all the caulk and tape this morning we glassed this busted piece back in . The PO only epoxied it along the crack and it fell out . Well have slick it off and paint another day . Hopefully the epoxy kicks off in a little bit so we can ride .
 

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I use J track vinyl strips from HD or Lowes they are attached with Scotch double sided tape. They work fine, keeping rain water or dew from dripping at the doors. The tape lasts a couple of years, then I pull it all off and replace the works for a few bucks, not the prettiest solution but works fine.

Thanks for the idea!!!! Heading to Lowes :thumb:
 

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