Anchoring Single-handed

This may have been covered before, so if so, and you have the link, let me know.
I plan to cruise single handed in the Northwest this summer (wife still working). I dock, lock through and pick up mooring bouys just fine. But I am interested in any advice on anchoring single-handed. My boat is a 36' trawler with twin diesels. I have an upper and a lower helm station. I carry a plow anchor on all chain. The windlass controls are on the bow and I do not have a remote for the windlass. Most of my anchoring will be in 35' or less and while wind might be a factor some times, current should not be an issue. I did some single handing way in the past but am way rusty. I looked for an article or a you-tube without success. If you know of any that will help please let me know. Your thoughts and suggestions will be much appreciated.

Poach said:

The windlass controls are on the bow and I do not have a remote for the windlass.

Click to expand...

What would it take to extend remote controls to your helm? The control circuit doesn't need much in the way of heavy wire...

I have to go forward to unlock out anchor and to kick it over the roller, but after that I usually go back to the helm where I can control both anchor and engines.

-Chris

Poach said:

This may have been covered before, so if so, and you have the link, let me know.
I plan to cruise single handed in the Northwest this summer (wife still working). I dock, lock through and pick up mooring bouys just fine. But I am interested in any advice on anchoring single-handed. My boat is a 36' trawler with twin diesels. I have an upper and a lower helm station. I carry a plow anchor on all chain. The windlass controls are on the bow and I do not have a remote for the windlass. Most of my anchoring will be in 35' or less and while wind might be a factor some times, current should not be an issue. I did some single handing way in the past but am way rusty. I looked for an article or a you-tube without success. If you know of any that will help please let me know. Your thoughts and suggestions will be much appreciated.

Click to expand...

I have the same setup as you *except* I also have a toggle switch at the upper and lower helm stations. This gives complete flexibility to how/when/where I use the windlass. This makes it very easy to single hand anchoring. These additional switches are VERY easy to install. All switches including the switches at the windlass are in parallel and only carry the current required to operate the windlass relays. So no special switches and no thick wiring required. If you have any intention of single handed anchoring I strongly suggest looking into getting additional switches installed.

Ken

ranger42c said:

What would it take to extend remote controls to your helm? The control circuit doesn't need much in the way of heavy wire...

I have to go forward to unlock out anchor and to kick it over the roller, but after that I usually go back to the helm where I can control both anchor and engines.

-Chris

Click to expand...

Chris
Good thoughts if I go that route, and I don't intend to be impolite, but I'd like to stick with what I asked rather than be in another hijacked discussion. Besides, what's the plan if your remote fails?

Poach,

It isn't that hard but takes a couple times to get comfortable with it. While I have a windlass control at the helm, I hardly ever use it. When I anchor single handed, this is what I do.
-Pick the spot as you would normally and get the anchor free to lower.
- drive upwind/current to where you want to drop the anchor and end up at a dead stop. Then I just kick in a little reverse power for a moment to get the boat thinking about starting its drift back. If there isn't enough wind/current to move you back, then give yourself enough sternway and then back into neutral.
- quickly go to the bow and start lowering the anchor as the boat is drifting back.
- deploy the chain slowly enough that you aren't just creating a pile on the bottom.
- The boat likely will slew around a bit if the wind causes the bow to fall off. Not usually a problem for me.
- When you have the scope you want to use for setting the anchor (I usually use 3-1) then use your snubber or chain stopper to secure the chain and go back to the helm. Then set your anchor as you would normally.

Occasionally, I have had to go back to the helm to change the angle of the boat etc... but not usually.

Raising the anchor is actually a bit more difficult. Normally, in the PNW during the summer in a decent anchorage, there isn't a lot of wind. In that case you can simply use your windless to take up the catenary in the chain and let its weight start to move the boat forward. You don't want to pull the boat with the windless but I have felt comfortable with using it to take up the catenary. If there is too much wind/current to do that, then you have to put the boat in gear at idle (set the autopilot to hold a heading) and go forward to take in some chain, then back to the helm to put it in idle, back to the bow, back to the helm etc... This works but is a bit of a pain. Make sure you are wearing your PFD.

Having a remote for the windlass or a control at the helm is nice, but unnecessary. You never want to set the anchor with the windlass anyway which means you will need to be at the bow to set a stopper or snubber anyway.

In a worst case scenario (close to shore with an onshore wind) here's how I think I'd do it.

Idle upwind, then while in neutral go forward and pull some anchor chain while there is slack in the rode. Repeat this until nearly over the anchor, then use the windlass for the last bit to pull yourself directly over the anchor. Go back to the helm and idle forward until the anchor levers itself out of the bottom. While in neutral, go forward again and raise the anchor up 10 feet or so. Go back to the helm and slowly idle out to deeper water further from shore where you should be able to pull the rest of the rode in while in neutral.

I single handed a twin engine catamaran sailboat and anchored at least 100 times by myself. This is what worked for me:

You need anchor controls at the bow and at the helm. I had to add the helm control and it was easy with a Lewmar rocker switch and three conductor cable to set that up.

So to anchor I motor to the spot and with the engines in neutral coasting forward a bit I go up to the bow and unlock the anchor and kick it overboard. I drop enough rode for the anchor to hit bottom and then another dozen feet or so and wait for the boat to drift back against the anchor. Then as the boat drifts back pay out more anchor rode until enough is out. Then go back to the helm and back down to set.

Let's not make this an anchor debate, but after switching from a Delta to a Rocna this drill was much easier- the Rocna set first time, every time.

Then go foward again and put your snubber in place. Then make sure that you turn off the windlass breaker so the anchor can't accidently be retrieved (been there, done that and it wasn't pretty).

So anchoring is relatively easy single handed, retrieving it is a bit tougher:

I first motor a dozen feet or so forward, then go forward, and disconnect the snubber. Then back at the helm I motor forward and using the helm anchor control, bring the rode in. In my case I would have to go forward every 50' or so and knock down the chain pile in the locker then back to the helm and retrieve some more rode. It takes 3-4 trips back and forth with a lot of rode out.

When I got as much rode as possible aboard I would then ease the boat forward with the engines to break the anchor out. Then you have to be quick because you are drifting free. From the helm bring in the rode until the anchor is right up below the bow roller, then go forward and bring up the anchor until it is in its tie down position and secure it. Then back to the helm and motor away.

In those hundred or so single handed anchorings, I only had one real problem when the anchor rode jammed in the windlass after the anchor broke free. I grabbed a heavy screw driver and rushed forward to quickly free the jam. An adjacent boat saw the whole thing and after it was cleared and I was was motoring away, called to congratulate me on the quick work.

David

I've anchored hundreds of times solo and have no windlass. When retrieving, I do as Dave does. Motor up maybe 20' and go fwd. Pull up slack and cleat it. Find out direction of rode relative to boat. Go back to helm and motor in that direction. Back up forward and pull more slack. Repeat as necessary til anchor is right under bow, or til I can pull it manually. If I can't pull it, back to the helm and reverse and let boat pull it up.

djmarchand said:

So to anchor I motor to the spot and with the engines in neutral coasting forward a bit I go up to the bow and unlock the anchor and kick it overboard. I drop enough rode for the anchor to hit bottom and then another dozen feet or so and wait for the boat to drift back against the anchor. Then as the boat drifts back pay out more anchor rode until enough is out. Then go back to the helm and back down to set.

Then go foward again and put your snubber in place. Then make sure that you turn off the windlass breaker so the anchor can't accidently be retrieved (been there, done that and it wasn't pretty).

Click to expand...

Two points. First, the OP doesn't have a windlass control at his helm nor a remote and he asked how to anchor with his current setup. Most folks so far have told him he needs additional controls or a remote. That is like someone asking how to dock a single with no thrusters that they need to either buy a boat with twins or add thrusters to their boat.

Secondly, while many, many people do it, I don't think setting an anchor with the windlass is a good idea. I would suggest putting your snubber in place before setting the anchor.

FWIW, I use an anchor bridle, but I set the anchor with a snubber. Then after the anchor is set, I rig up the bridle and give myself an additional 25 feet of rode.

When single handed I did it like described by dhays post #5. Worked pretty well.
We don't have a remote control for the windlass, never thought we would miss it ...

A helm mounted rocker switch for the windless is not like adding a bow thruster. If you mount the switch and pull the wire yourself it should cost less than $100.

It makes retrieving the anchor so much easier. If you didn't have one, in any kind of wind, you would motoring a bit then going forward and picking up rode then back and forth, bank and forth. If you don't have a chain pile up problem you can pick up the entire rode from the helm, motor forward to break out the anchor then pull it up close to the bow roller before going forward for the final anchor lock down.

A snubber is for dampening shock loads from the chain and transferring them to a sampson post or cleat so as not to stress the windless. But the windless is perfectly capable of taking the backing down loads before setting the snubber.

David

Poach said:

Chris
Good thoughts if I go that route, and I don't intend to be impolite, but I'd like to stick with what I asked rather than be in another hijacked discussion. Besides, what's the plan if your remote fails?

Click to expand...

Yep, not to worry, just thought might not be all that expensive, etc. (Don't actually know.)

Certainly there are potential hiccups with remotes... and I have to go back forward anyway to prepare for the final set...

-Chris

Wireless remotes are inexpensive

I anchor several times per month solo. I always use my lower helm switch and my wireless remote on my self-launching ground tackle. I don't have controls at the bow or flybridge helm unless my Lewmar wireless remote is in my pocket. I'll never be without a wireless remote again...but if it failed, I still have the lower helm switch.

To me, it's the easiest way to single-hand the anchor.

djmarchand said:

A snubber is for dampening shock loads from the chain and transferring them to a sampson post or cleat so as not to stress the windless. But the windless is perfectly capable of taking the backing down loads before setting the snubber.

Click to expand...

I may be overly paranoid about stressing the windlass. I also secure the anchor when it is raised to not leave the tension on the windlass. For me, since putting a chain hook on the chain and then setting the anchor is pretty easy, I don't mind doing it. I've never had a windlass fail so I am likely concerned about nothing.

OTOH, maybe there is a reason I've never had a windlass fail?

Not all windlass systems have built in relays to allow for inexpensive remote switches.

The back and forth between flybridge and bow in heavy wind / current / thunderstorm is not always pleasant. You have to be nimble and capable of moving between those two stations within ten to fifteen seconds. In situations where you might have two anchors one rope rode and one chain and one ******* who parked over your anchor is another level of complexity.

Everybody seems to be hooked on the push button lifestyle. Admittedly pushing a button in the wheelhouse may be safer than what I do out on the bow but I'm vastly more connected to what I'm doing. You can't see what's going on w your rode from the wheelhouse.
Actually it's another plus for the nylon rode. The chain may not move enough to give you any feedback as to what the anchor is doing down there.

Suggestion. On a calm day, well away from shore, at a typical anchoring depth, pull your anchor up by hand. Windlasses jam, gypsy's break, relay's burn out, circuit breakers trip, wires corrode, batteries go flat, motors burn out, and pulling up by hand a long line of 3/8 chain and a 35lb CQR is time consuming and tiring.

Once the anchor breaks free the boat is free and you may not be because you're trying to hang onto the anchor with 50' of 3/8 out straight. The drill might help you implement some of the excellent techniques mentioned.

Then do it all over again using your windlass manually if it has that capability. I've switched to nylon with 30' of chain in case anything fails and I have to pull by hand.

Never use my helm switch but use the pedals at the windlass. Need to release the windlass lock and tip the anchor over anyway, and I rinse the chain with fresh water when recovering. Also, installing and recovering the snubber requires one to be on deck.

With a couple relays, you can wire in either a wired or wireless remote.

Poach said:

Chris
Good thoughts if I go that route, and I don't intend to be impolite, but I'd like to stick with what I asked rather than be in another hijacked discussion. Besides, what's the plan if your remote fails?

Click to expand...

Hey Poach,

I've done a lot of anchoring alone, at night (since I'm alone and dont want to stop).

If I didn't have the helm controls, anchoring would be no problem. Then:
I'd drive to the spot I want the anchor
Idle and neutral
go to bow and dump what ever amount of chain I had decided
go back to helm
Motor in reverse, a little, a lot, not at all (I've done all three for various reasons).
have a drink

Now, to retrieve the anchor, it's a f...ing pain in the ass.
That's why nicer people than I are trying to tell you to take a half hour and put a toggle switch at your helm.

Otherwise, you will most likely hurt something, when you are having trouble freeing your anchor and having to run back and forth.

Thanks for listening.

I have been tempted to comment on the safety of anchoring solo solely from the bow since this thread started. The OP has not asked that issue, but others have.

I have anchored enough with a boat that has high windage to believe that there are situations where dropping and lifting the anchor solo from the bow would be dangerous. There are also many situations where it would be perfectly safe.

For the cost and effort required for putting in a remote switch it is better to have the option of dropping and raising the anchor from the helm

I don't think anyone has mentioned holding the boat stationary until the anchor touches bottom. Many times when we anchor we are at idle or higher in forward just to keep the boat over the spot on which we wish to drop the anchor. Then we go to neutral and let the boat drift back while we let out more chain. This should not be done without someone at the helm.

anchor

My boat was a heavy 42' steel boat and my windlass was a Maxwell hydraulic. approaching the anchorage under autopilot I would go to the bow and position the anchor (66# Bruce 200' 1/2" chain) so it was ready to drop. Go back to helm. Note that door right next to helm. when I had reached where I wanted to drop, would reverse to take way off and then put in reverse at idle, go forward and use cone clutch to lower till anchor on bottom, then set clutch with slight drag (boat is still astern in idle), proceed back to helm and back down as necessary to pull amount of chain out that I wanted. Take way off with forward throttle, go forward and put on rope stop. Had a raise switch at helm and would raise enough to remove rope and would then power forward raising chain until anchor self shoved on bow roller. I realize every boat is different, my boat had no flying bridge and door right next to helm which worked well for me for many lone anchoring.

Poach said:

...... But I am interested in any advice on anchoring single-handed. My boat is a 36' trawler with twin diesels. I have an upper and a lower helm station. I carry a plow anchor on all chain. The windlass controls are on the bow and I do not have a remote for the windlass. Most of my anchoring will be in 35' or less and while wind might be a factor some times, current should not be an issue......

Click to expand...

Seriously, if you are going to do quite a bit of this, you do need to change/modify several things. Firstly, you need to be able to activate your anchor from at least the lower helm, either by a directly connected switch, or a remote, if your system supports that.

Next, a simple chain counter would be a blessing, although not absolutely necessary, as many will attest, but I just love having one. There are types that are quite cheap and easy to install. This is what I have...
CruzPro CH55 Chain Counter

Lastly, and this again is just based on personal experience, but when you are single handing, you do want everything to be as hassle free as possible. So, if possible cost-wise, I'd ditch the CQR as soon as possible, and invest on one of the later models of quick setting and high holding anchors, like the Sarca Excel, Rocna, or Rocna Vulcan, Manson Supreme or Boss, etc. Trying to be impartial here, but if you pin me down I'd have to say the Sarca. But that's because I have personal experience with those. Good luck in your venture, anyway.

dhays said:

Two points. First, the OP doesn't have a windlass control at his helm nor a remote and he asked how to anchor with his current setup.....

Click to expand...

No, Dave, he didn't actually say he only wanted advice regarding using exactly what he has. Most of us have therefore, from personal experience, advised him re some quite cheap and easy ways he can make life a lot easier.

Ok, my advice re a better anchor is not a cheap option, but also not mandatory. However, the CQR has been found wanting in performance enough for it to be a good thing to at least add to his to-do list for a nice Xmas presy maybe..?

Peter B said:

Ok, my advice re a better anchor is not a cheap option, but also not mandatory. However, the CQR has been found wanting in performance enough for it to be a good thing to at least add to his to-do list for a nice Xmas presy maybe..?

Click to expand...

I agree with this. Shortly after I bought my current boat I replaced the CQR copy that came with the boat with a Sarca Excel. I think I was the first person in the US to take delivery from the NA Distributor.

Bay Pelican said:

I have anchored enough with a boat that has high windage to believe that there are situations where dropping and lifting the anchor solo from the bow would be dangerous. There are also many situations where it would be perfectly safe.

Click to expand...

I'm trying to understand the danger. Is your concern having the boat drifting uncontrolled when the bow blows off? Or is there some other danger I haven't thought of?

I anchor single-handed without a windlass. Biggest challenge is positioning the boat in a lot of wind if close to obstructions, and it's a bigger challenge with the power boat than it ever was for me with sailboats. I can see how a helm remote would be really useful.

I should say I've learned a ton more about anchors and anchoring hanging out here for the last couple of years. You guys rock!

Jeff

Example, Rodney Bay St. Lucia. Usually 15kt wind, 30 ft depth. With a 9ft bow that means 200 feet of chain out. If you anchor correctly you will end up with your transom 60 ft ahead of the boat behind you. Exact placement of the anchor is necessary. We will frequently be in forward to hold position until the anchor touches down. Even with two people doing this we have frequently lifted anchor and reanchored to get it right.

St. Pierre Martinique, same story but you need to end up 20 feet in front of the boat behind you.

Basically, I can see where in a wide open anchorage you can drop from the bow, just think it would be difficult in a crowed anchorage with wind.

Lifting anchor is another issue. If no one is at the helm you are lifting the anchor using the windlass to pull the boat forward. Are the windlasses designed to pull up 200 feet of chain against a 15 kt wind? We have an oversized Ideal horizontal windlass and there have been times it has strained when the chain has come up faster than the boat has moved forward. With someone at the helm control I just wait a couple of seconds until the boat moves forward and the chain slackens.

If you are lucky enough to be lifting anchor in a crowded anchorage without wind then you have another problem. The windlass is pulling the boat forward and the boat will not stop when the anchor has been pulled out of the sea bed while still hanging 20 feet down. Depending on how far behind the boat in front of you you anchored your boat will be continuing to move forward. Having repeatedly anchored 5 to 10 feet behind the boat in front of me this is problem. If my anchor chain is under the boat in front of me then it is a whole different problem that requires coordination of the helm and the windlass.

Ok, these are my experiences, but I can't be alone in them. My suggestion is that for a solo sailor it is worth adding a control at the helm to have the option of dropping and lifting from the helm if necessary.

Wow, I never knew anchoring was so difficult. I have controls for my windlass at the helm, but often use just the foot switches at the bow deploying and retrieving the anchor when single-handed. In water under 20 feet I like to see how the anchor and chain are lying on bottom. I also need to knock over my chain castle once or twice during the retrieval process. In winds under 10 knots, I often don't use the engine when retrieving. I pull in a bit of chain, maybe 10 or 15 feet, then let the sagging if the chain slowly draw the boat toward the anchor, then pull in another 10 or 15 feet and repeat. I take my time; there's no hurry. If the wind is up, I have to make a few trips back and forth to the helm. Again, nor hurry.

Peter B said:

No, Dave, he didn't actually say he only wanted advice regarding using exactly what he has. Most of us have therefore, from personal experience, advised him re some quite cheap and easy ways he can make life a lot easier.

Ok, my advice re a better anchor is not a cheap option, but also not mandatory. However, the CQR has been found wanting in performance enough for it to be a good thing to at least add to his to-do list for a nice Xmas presy maybe..?

Click to expand...

The CQR was the worst anchor I ever had.
My plow was and is much better.

My primary now for three years is the Delta which is a third the cost and I can find no objective data that anchors that are more expensive are better.