Proud Mary renovation status

Sanded and repainted the prop and rudder

Installed a new epoxied plywood board for the fuel tank

And a box of new windows has arrived!

Looks good. Keep posting the photos.

Also received our new fuel tank from RDS aluminum

Now we're redoing the thru hulls.

They are not installed backwards. I used the thru hulls to clamp the backer blocks while the epoxy hardened.

Proud Mary,
What coating did you use on the rudder and prop? 20" prop?

Nomad Willy said:

Proud Mary,
What coating did you use on the rudder and prop? 20" prop?

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Velox plus anti-fouling paint kit, primer and paint. We chose white over black so that it would be easier to see growth or lack of growth when in the water.

Greetings,
Looks VERY nice. Keep those letters and cards coming folks...

What are you going to put in between the new fuel tank and the plywood shelf?

Comodave said:

What are you going to put in between the new fuel tank and the plywood shelf?

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I planned for a 1/2" air gap by having the replacement tank built a 1/2" shorter but I haven't selected a material. Any recommendations?

Someting like starboard that does not absorb water.

Comodave said:

Someting like starboard that does not absorb water.

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That's a good idea. I may slide a piece in between my tanks. Just emptied the port. Cleaned out while it's light seems to be the time. I have a sheet of 1/8 fiberglass. Would seem to be an excellent use for it

Regarding Velox. Just applied the third coat. Will have to compare notes after the summer. Usually have to scrape barnacles by mid August.

Proud Mary said:

Velox plus anti-fouling paint kit, primer and paint. We chose white over black so that it would be easier to see growth or lack of growth when in the water.

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PM,
Does it promote electrolysis? Or does the primer isolate the "combatants" and minimize corrosion?

Comodave said:

Someting like starboard that does not absorb water.

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Would it sweat or promote the tank to sweat. Water is water.

You don't want to just slide a sheet under the tank. You should have strips and put them under the tank in an orientation that will allow any water that gets under the tank to drain out. You want to stop water from being in contact with the tank. The idea of strips is that they will let water run out and let air in to dry out any water under the tank. I have seen some people use neoprene and glue it to the tank with something like 5200 so that water can't get in between the strip and the tank which would cause corrosion. I don't know if neoprene would support the weight of your tank without crushing which would negate the reason for putting it in there. Starboard is hard to caulk because most caulk won't stick to it. I think that there are some caulks that do stick to starboard out there now.

Wonder if the tank is structurally sound to have supported only in a couple areas? Anyone have their tank elevated on stringers?

You don't really put it on stringers. You cut some strips about 2" -3" wide and space them about 8-10" apart over the length of the tank.

Mbevins, that is correct.

Today we removed the rotted and bug infested utility closet panels.

Then I took on the crappy job of removing the waste tank, y valve and macerate to access the diesel fuel underneath the bilge boards between the stringers.

Nomad Willy said:

Proud Mary,
What coating did you use on the rudder and prop? 20" prop?

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Speaking of prop, I needed to buy a new shaft. So I had the prop shop clean up the prop. It's a 20x16.5". I thought the book said 20x18. Must have been reworked over the years. Maybe that's why the old girls a tad slow. But easier on the engine is OK too.

We've decided to use Shields Neoprene Sheet Rubber. It appears to be the most economical solution.

Cappy,
The question was directed at Proud Mary but I see you've got a Prairie 29 too so your response is very relevant. The Prairie 29 in some ways is very similar to my Willard. I have 37-40hp, 2.57-1 red and an 18" prop. The Prairie needs more power so I thought it would require a bit bigger prop.

It looks like PM has the same make and model prop as mine. I used a cold galvanize coating the same color as his prop and rudder. But the last time I launched I just used ArmorAll like I'd used in Alaska. Trying to get a good idea how the two coatings compare re marine growth. The ArmorAll must have worked fairly well as we just made an eight day trip on the boat and if the performance was down it seemed very little. The hauling is something I almost must do but $300 for Prop Speed is not.

One other suggestion is to coat your fuel tank before installing it.

I coated my Prairie 36 fuel tank with 2 coats of coal tar epoxy before installing it. I noticed my port/aft fuel tank had been coated, but the other 3 tanks, included the one being replaced due to a leak were bare aluminum. So I asked the tank fabricator what he would recommend as a coating and his response was coal tar epoxy.

I am fairly confident that the port/aft fuel tank was replaced by the PO. I am also 99% sure that that tank was also coated with coal tar epoxy.

The 90 to 100 degree temps have slowed my progress but I was able to dry fit two new plywood panels for the rear of the engine compartment.

Proud Mary said:

The 90 to 100 degree temps have slowed my progress but I was able to dry fit two new plywood panels for the rear of the engine compartment.View attachment 66777View attachment 66778

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They are about an inch too tall as I forgot to adjust for the 3/4" decking and 3/8" cabin sole.

Since it is too hot to work in the boat I decided to sanitize the main water tank. The inspection covers came off to reveal what I assume is bacteria and dirt.

Now I'm adding three cups of bleach to the 90 gallon tank to let it soak.

Applying coal tar epoxy to the two new aluminum fuel tanks.