Fuel pump/120 ford

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belizebill

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2010
Messages
227
Location
Belize, Central America
Vessel Name
Irish Miss
Vessel Make
36' Marine Trader, D C
Im not exactly sure about draining and changing the oil on my fuel* pump. I really dont know the right way to do it . Im not exactly sure which bolts do what. Which is the when its full plug, which is the fill plug. Its a Ford Leahman 120. My first time aye? BB
 
I suspect that you mean the injector pump. Do a search and you should find what you need to know. There are a couple of different types depending on the engine!
 
Yes. look it up for illustrations of exactly where they are on your version of pump, but on mine, there's a bottom drain plug, for draining old oil, obviously, and which you replace before filling up again, of course. Then there is a top screw in cap for filling, (removed before draining to help release the old oil), and on the side, about halfway up, a level plug one removes, tops up until the clean oil just starts to flow out, then that's it. Top cap back in, level plug back in, and you're done.
 
If you don't have a copy of the owners manual for your Lehman, this site has manuals you can download.

Link: http://www.gbwoodies.com/
 
belizebill wrote:
Im not exactly sure which bolts do what. Which is the when its full plug, which is the fill plug. Its a Ford Leahman 120. My first time aye? BB
*Bill---

If you have the inline CAV/Simms/Minimec injector pump on your FL120 the attached photo of the pump on one of our engines may help.* The drain plug is on the very*bottom of the pump about under the word "Level" in my photo.

The fill plug is on the top of the pump just forward of the first injector pipe connection and aft of the domed adjustment screw protector cap.

It's recommended that you always replace the soft washer on the drain plug with a new soft washer every time you change the injector pump oil (every 50 hours).* Be very careful when tightening the drain plug.* The pump casting is rather soft and if you overtighten the plug you run the risk of stripping the threads in the hole.* On the other hand, if you don't tighten it enough you run the risk of the plug backing out and falling off.* This is one reason to always use a new soft washer as it will compress when you tighten the plug and help lock it on.* A used washer has already been compressed so will not do as good a job.

The large fill plug on the top of the pump can seize to the pump body if there is no O-ring on it.* This means you have to apply a lot of pressure to break the plug loose and you run the risk of damaging the slot in the head.* Our plugs did not have O-rings and I didn't think one would fit until someone on the Grand Banks owners forum set me straight.

I blocked off the stock breather/overflow plug on our pumps per a conversation with Bob Smith at American Diesel a number of years*ago.*That's why there is a hole in the center of the fill plug in the photo--- the hole lets the pump breathe.


-- Edited by Marin on Tuesday 5th of July 2011 09:49:56 PM
 

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Marin wrote:
I blocked off the stock breather/overflow plug on our pumps per a conversation with Bob Smith at American Diesel a number of years*ago.*



*
********* Marin,* When you get a chance could you let me know what Bob Smith said about blocking the stock breather/overflow.

********* Do you purchase your new soft washers from American Diesel?

*Thanks* JohnP
 
belizebill wrote:
Im not exactly sure about draining and changing the oil on my fuel* pump. I really dont know the right way to do it . Im not exactly sure which bolts do what. Which is the when its full plug, which is the fill plug. Its a Ford Leahman 120. My first time aye? BB
*BelizeBill

*
1) Remove the "level plug" on the side of the injector (item 2 from the manual) Make a note if, and how much oil comes out. Bob Smith says when it starts getting excessive, fuel is bypassing the injector pump pistons). No oil coming out of the level plug hole is a good thing!
2) Remove the flat head fill screw at the top of the injector (item 1 in the manual.).
3) Remove the drain plug (item 3 in the manual) and catch the oil in something. I guess about a cup or two come out.

4) Put the drain plug back in.
5) Put new oil in the fill plug until it starts running out the level hole. (same oil wt as engine. I use Shell Rotella 30 wt, same as in the engine).
6) Put all the plugs back in and yer done!
*
Here is a good tip:
After you drain the oil do the following.
1. Fill the oil to the proper level according to the oil level plug hole. When it JUST starts to show or come out it is full.
2. Get a CLEAR plastic bottle. I use a dishwasher bottle. Now drain the NEW oil into the bottle.
3. Mark the oil level on this bottle. This now becomes an important reference line for future injector pump oil drains.
4. Pour the new oil back into the injector pump.
5. Next time you need to drain the injector pump oil, drain it into this marked plastic container. Compare the used oil level with the mark on the container. The oil should be close to the mark. If not, or if you see that each oil change is showing an increase in the oil level, then you know the injector pump is letting diesel fuel past the injector pump pistons and its getting time for a rebuild. If you ever notice the used oil levels higher than they should be, then change the oil MORE FREQUENTLY, maybe 40 hrs or so. That is a temporary work around until you get the injector pump rebuilt. A new injector pump is >$3000, so dont neglect it !
*
Second, I highly recommend that you contact American Diesel Corp about your engine if you have any questions.
http://www.americandieselcorp.com/
804.435.3107

Here is my fuel injector pump labeled for you -
 

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BB, You should have a good idea by now. We just published a post on our Beach House site on our methods for oil and filter changes including the injector pump. Chuck
 
Thank you all,Its a bit daunting learning all the systems ,but with help like you all its easier,Thanks. BB
 
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