Frequency required for Buff and Wax

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Glass. I clean the outside glass with Invisable Glass, then I put a light coat of Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. Really buffs out the glass a seems to remove small scratches. Water beads real nicely.
 
Wow, what a response! I guess we all have had to get through this job to keep her Bristol. Great ideas. In addition, the PO had the teak decks removed, repaired decks and painted them. I'll have to check with him to see what paint he used before I wax. Thanks guys!
 
I have an Awlgrip painted cap rail. Polish it with a rotary buffer (lambs wool pad and 3M Finesse It) and wax it (Collonite 845 Insulator Wax) and it glistens.

It is a hard surface. The smoother you make it the shinier it will be.
 
Giggitoni said:
Twice per year in Vallejo, California (warmer inland part of San Francisco Bay Area). I'll wax a VW Beetle, not a 42-foot boat!
Click to expand...

I can attest to the fact that Ray's boat SHINES! A dark hulled boat nearby has succumbed to the effects of direct sunlight without buff or wax. It shows.

AusCan said:
My boat gets buffed every 5 years whether it needs it or not. I settle for the flat white look.
Click to expand...

That's the attitude I've adopted! I keep my boat at the same marina as Giggitoni, but mine is a covered berth across the fairway from USCG Station Vallejo. The covered berth makes a huge difference in the need for buff and wax. In fact, I just got a TF compliment for the hull shine in photos here during a post accident repair 18 months ago. I think Ray used Photoshop to make my boat look better that it really looks up close and personal.

Tom.B said:
The process is: floor stripper, 800... 1200... 2000 grit sanding, rubbing compound, polishing compound, colonite wax. It is a huge undertaking, but the results are amazing and, hopefully, I will never have to do it again.

I am watching this thread so I will have an idea on what the follow-up will be. Thanks for asking.
Click to expand...

Tom, I have used Buff Magic on the interior hull sides (just the part I can see when aboard!) and followed up with a Colinite Wax in lieu of Poly-whatever Shurflo sells. I was VERY impressed with the dramatic change from the Buff Magic. So was a blowboater friend of mine with a similar aged Tartan SB. He had tried everything with crappy results up to that summer. It might be worth trying it in a small area before committing to the multi-stage approach.

I was less enthused about the longevity of the Colinite, although I understand that they have several different 'recipes' for their various waxes so some may last longer than others.
 
Last edited:
My current boat is gel coat and gets waxed twice a year (if I see it needing it it gets an extra wax). Boat is in south Florida, my guy charges me $1100.00 (43 foot boat).
 
Alaskan Sea-Duction said:
Glass. I clean the outside glass with Invisable Glass, then I put a light coat of Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. Really buffs out the glass a seems to remove small scratches. Water beads real nicely.
Click to expand...

GLASS CLEANING
I have found , with hard water spots, that are tough to remove, I use wink, then if still there, buff magic, (pink),. If still there, I put the buffer on the windows, with buff majic.
Also , I have seen here on the forum, people mentioning buffers. I must have buffed , a thousand cars in my life, ( car business), all I found all you need is the cheap buffer, (harbor freight), with trigger controlled speed, on sale 30.00, and a wool pad from them also, (11), it is of upmost IMPORTANCE, that someone show you how to apply the product, and how to work the buffer, and how to clean the pad, ( what to use for spur), and how often to change the pad.Like everything else in this life, something that seems so simple, is not, always the case .Buy at least 6 or 8 pads, when dirty, or shiny with compound, replace.on the buffer. Wash the dirty ones in the washer, but only with COLD, water, let air dry.
Trust me, 3 or 4 hours, you will ready for beer.
I have also found, in the water, not bad on a floater dock, when buffing,.
 
Hotrod, in my first novice buffing attempt, which went quite well, I used foam pads which came in a range of colors indicating the aggression of the pad. I had lambswool ones, but chose foam (except for final polishing off of the final wax),because someone said foam was better, they sure need regular cleaning as you say.
Do you favor foam, or lambswool,or does it vary with the job surface. And, what is "spur"? When you say to use the washer, is that as in washing machine? Forgive the silly questions, I`m new to it, interested to learn.
 
BruceK said:
Hotrod, in my first novice buffing attempt, which went quite well, I used foam pads which came in a range of colors indicating the aggression of the pad. I had lambswool ones, but chose foam (except for final polishing off of the final wax),because someone said foam was better, they sure need regular cleaning as you say.
Do you favor foam, or lambswool,or does it vary with the job surface. And, what is "spur"? When you say to use the washer, is that as in washing machine? Forgive the silly questions, I`m new to it, interested to learn.
Click to expand...

As long as the boat is gel coat, I would only use wool pads. I personally do not like the foam pads. You are correct, in my opinion, in regard to it varys in regard to surface condition. Like I mentioned earlier, I use the pink buff majic, due to jewelr Rouge, added to the product. The spur, is the tool to clean the pad with. It looks like the spur , from used on horses, but has a handle. You run it against the pad , while spinning the buffer in your hand. It raises the hairs on the wool and takes off excess compound. BUT, you cannot use a metal spur, with pink buff majic, it will make the pad turn black, due to the compound cleaning, and buffing the metal spur.Instead, I take a paint stick, break it in half, and use the coarse side against the pad.Yes, you are correct the washing machine, but make sure you clean the machine after, with another cycle of soap only. I have a separate washing machine in my shop for just rags and pads cleaning.I have been this for a long time, and wished someone had guided me, in my early years, feel free to ask anything, NO questions , are silly, in my opinion
 
Miss Rachel said:
I have an Awlgrip painted cap rail. Polish it with a rotary buffer (lambs wool pad and 3M Finesse It) and wax it (Collonite 845 Insulator Wax) and it glistens.

It is a hard surface. The smoother you make it the shinier it will be.
Click to expand...
Goes against everything mfg recommends for Awlgrip. If thats what you prefer...have at it but I caution recommending it to others as a good practice.
Awlgrip recommends no machine...no abrasive cleaners. ..no wax
Hand apply their polymer finish and it shines also
 
Bacchus said:
Goes against everything mfg recommends for Awlgrip. If thats what you prefer...have at it but I caution recommending it to others as a good practice.
Awlgrip recommends no machine...no abrasive cleaners. ..no wax
Hand apply their polymer finish and it shines also
Click to expand...

Awlgrip, is a two part paint. Very tough. I believe what the man is doing on a cap rail , is much different , than buffing a hull. Which I am aware that they have their own special wax, for their paint. I would be doing the same thing as he is buffing the rail, it just keeps flattening out the paint, removes over time, brush strokes, gives mirror gloss. Brilliant idea, in my opinion!
 
Hotrod said:
Awlgrip, is a two part paint. Very tough. I believe what the man is doing on a cap rail , is much different , than buffing a hull. Which I am aware that they have their own special wax, for their paint. I would be doing the same thing as he is buffing the rail, it just keeps flattening out the paint, removes over time, brush strokes, gives mirror gloss. Brilliant idea, in my opinion!
Click to expand...

I am NOT trying to convince you or Miss Rachel to change anything you are doing - As I said before - I would simply caution others about following this maintenance of AWLGRIP - get the facts and make your own decisions - I would NOT follow other practices blindly -
AkzoNoble knows their products - has done research - and sells good products at a reasonable price - Why not follow their recommendations.
If you prefer a buffable products - use AWLCRAFT!
Once you start the buffing & waxing of AWLGRIP you have to continue to wax to provide the shine and surface protection as you have removed the inherent protection the product offers - then the wax is the protection

See
Awlgrip vs Awlcraft Facts & Fiction Regarding Repairing & Buffing Topcoats

Rotary buffer w/ wool pad is probably THE MOST aggressive buffing that can be done

From AKZO NOBEL website / data sheets

AWLGRIP® TOPCOATS - A two component, polyester based, light-fast, linear aliphatic polyurethane coating with long lasting gloss and color retention, and outstanding chemical resistance. Do not use below the waterline. A low maintenance coating. Do not wax, buff, compound, or polish.

AWLCRAFT® 2000 ACRYLIC URETHANE TOPCOAT - Awlcraft 2000 is a two component, fast drying acrylic urethane coating with long lasting gloss and color retention. Provides an easy to apply, buffable finish. Spray application only. Do not use below the waterline.

Maintaining an Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 or Awlgrip HS Topcoat
 
Bacchus said:
I am NOT trying to convince you or Miss Rachel to change anything you are doing - As I said before - I would simply caution others about following this maintenance of AWLGRIP - get the facts and make your own decisions - I would NOT follow other practices blindly -
AkzoNoble knows their products - has done research - and sells good products at a reasonable price - Why not follow their recommendations.
If you prefer a buffable products - use AWLCRAFT!
Once you start the buffing & waxing of AWLGRIP you have to continue to wax to provide the shine and surface protection as you have removed the inherent protection the product offers - then the wax is the protection

See
Awlgrip vs Awlcraft Facts & Fiction Regarding Repairing & Buffing Topcoats

Rotary buffer w/ wool pad is probably THE MOST aggressive buffing that can be done

From AKZO NOBEL website / data sheets

AWLGRIP® TOPCOATS - A two component, polyester based, light-fast, linear aliphatic polyurethane coating with long lasting gloss and color retention, and outstanding chemical resistance. Do not use below the waterline. A low maintenance coating. Do not wax, buff, compound, or polish.

AWLCRAFT® 2000 ACRYLIC URETHANE TOPCOAT - Awlcraft 2000 is a two component, fast drying acrylic urethane coating with long lasting gloss and color retention. Provides an easy to apply, buffable finish. Spray application only. Do not use below the waterline.

Maintaining an Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 or Awlgrip HS Topcoat
Click to expand...
I donot understand you comment. It has been written more than once on this post, that you do not buff hulls, painted with awlgrip paint, I think everyone is aware of that, sir. This man was painting wood, not a fiberglass, or metal boat. I am sure we all understand this. I just happen to think what he did is brilliant, and if he has, premature paint failure, I am sure he will not complain, but can say maybe next time, he will do differently.I believe he knows exactly what he is doing. The Awlgrip paint will last 10 times as long as varnish, even buffed, God forbid!
 
Wrong word, right idea

BandB said:
A huge NO. Don't wax Awlgrip and if it ever seems to need it, use their polish and their instructions. Do what they say.

The other thing I haven't seen mentioned in this is the importance of regular washing with a mild detergent as recommended, a non abrasive product. If you let dirt and grime accumulate and then have to scrub hard, each time you'll be removing wax and often requiring waxing and buffing. Washing is the first step of the maintenance process.
Click to expand...

I guess I lumped Awlcare into the same category as a wax, in that it is wiped on and wiped off when dry. I plan to never buff this boat, once painted. I also use Awlwash before Awlcare.

Gordon
 
For those of us that also need to protect the gelcoat finish of our boats please consider that fact that a true wax collects dirt and makes those black streaks more pronounced and harder to remove.
The gelcoat still needs protection from UV so it is best to keep it coated and washed for a prolonged life and visual presentation.
We have found that a good gel coat sealer is a much better solution for this task then any of the typical waxes - yes, we had tried most all of them over 30+ years.
In our case we began to use a product called "Gel Coat Labs" polish (without the minor cleaners) on the gel coat of our used boats with these results- a longer life, good visual shine , less black streaks and easier to clean as well as an easier application and buff.
Here is what we did and maybe you might want to try ....
- Select that area of your boat that annoys you the most to keep clean.
- Get the gel coat clean by whatever means are necessary on the entire hull
- Wax one side of the boat where that most annoying spot is as normal
- On the other side of the hull in that annoying spot use a good gel coat sealant.

Then just watch and see what happens on your own boat based upon which product is on that side - for us the gel coat sealant outperformed the conventional waxes.
 
"I guess I lumped Awlcare into the same category as a wax, in that it is wiped on and wiped off when dry."


Really they have nothing in common and the Awlcare (if needed) should be utilized without a machine and with 100% clean cotton towels.
If you have let the Awlgrip go too long in salt water without rinsing and it has developed those ring spots of salt and calcium a trick is to wash it thoroughly with a 25% solution of Vinegar and water with a soft pad and after waiting a couple of minutes just rinse it with fresh water.
 
HotRod

Enough said already :horse:

I just wanted to get the mfg recommendations & differences out there for folks to make their own informed decisions :peace:
 
Ski in NC said:
I use the "ten foot rule" regarding finish on my rig. If you see a flaw, back up ten feet. If you can't see it from ten feet, it is NOT THERE.

You have to figure out how many feet apply to your boat. Some are ten, some twenty, some are two feet. Once you settle on your "rule", it makes fussing over finish much simpler.
Click to expand...

I love your "rule".

My Dad use to say, "It looks good from the Freeway." :D
 
Here's what we do on the various surfaces (timing is overall estimate as it varies by need):

Awlgrip
We rinse the boat with fresh water after every period of use. We wash weekly when the boat is not covered, monthly when covered and not in use, using Awlwash. We use Awlcare, which is a polymer sealer on any marks that require more than Awlwash, as it will remove diesel exhaust and other stains. Otherwise we use Awlcare every 6 months, by hand only. Note, our Awlgrip boat is kept under cover most of the time. If it was in the open, we'd use Awlcare more frequently. We never buff.

Alexseal
We rinse the boat with fresh water, after every period of use. We wash weekly when the boat is not covered, monthly when covered and not in use, using either Alexseal Premium Washdown Concentrate or Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wash. For sealing, we use a polymer sealer. We use either Alexseal Premium Polymer Sealer or Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax, by hand, every three months. We buff using a 3M Slow Speed Buffer, foam pad, and 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound. So far, we've done this between every 2 years and 3 years but imagine it more frequently as the boat ages. After buffing, we polish with 3M Finesse It-II finishing material with a 3M Slow Speed Buffer.

Gelcoat
We rinse the boat with fresh water after every period of use. We wash weekly when the boat is not covered, monthly when covered and not in use, using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Cleaner. We wax every three months using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Wax. We wax by hand. We buff using a 3M Slow Speed Buffer, foam pad, and 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound after 2 years and then every year. After buffing, we polish with the 3M slow speed buffer and 3M Finesse It-II finishing material using foam pads.

As long as we're at it:
Teak
We wash teak using Teak Decking Systems Eco 100 Teak Deck Cleaner (concentrate), using a soft brush and only going against the grain. We do this on average once a month when in use, every three months when not in use. However, we spot wash weekly any soiled areas. We use TDS Eco 300 Teak Cleaner Liquid for worse stains or more dirt. We've never used anything on our teak decks or any equipment other than mentioned above.

Canvas
We use a soft brush and diluted (to 50%) Dawn Free and Gentle Dishwashing Liquid about once per month when exposed, less frequently when not. We use a soft bristle brush. When needed, we use Meguiar's Canvas Cleaner for spots or dirtier areas. We use 303 Fabric Guard every every three to six months, depending on exposure, to retreat the canvas.

Strataglass
We use all IMAR products on Strataglass. We use IMAR Strataglass Protective Cleaner on the Strataglass using a soft cotton cloth. Periodically we use IMAR Stratglass Protective Polish. Both the Cleaner and Polish are used with small circular strokes.
 
BandB said:
Here's what we do on the various surfaces (timing is overall estimate as it varies by need):.....
Click to expand...
An admirable time consuming cosmetic and protective maintenance program. When you say "We", do you have servants to do it for you?
 
BruceK said:
An admirable time consuming cosmetic and protective maintenance program. When you say "We", do you have servants to do it for you?
Click to expand...

Let's just say, it's definitely "we" and not "I". I have done and sometimes help as has my wife, but we turn the hard work over to others.
 
BandB said:
Here's what we do on the various surfaces (timing is overall estimate as it varies by need):

Awlgrip
We rinse the boat with fresh water after every period of use. We wash weekly when the boat is not covered, monthly when covered and not in use, using Awlwash. We use Awlcare, which is a polymer sealer on any marks that require more than Awlwash, as it will remove diesel exhaust and other stains. Otherwise we use Awlcare every 6 months, by hand only. Note, our Awlgrip boat is kept under cover most of the time. If it was in the open, we'd use Awlcare more frequently. We never buff.

Alexseal
We rinse the boat with fresh water, after every period of use. We wash weekly when the boat is not covered, monthly when covered and not in use, using either Alexseal Premium Washdown Concentrate or Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wash. For sealing, we use a polymer sealer. We use either Alexseal Premium Polymer Sealer or Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax, by hand, every three months. We buff using a 3M Slow Speed Buffer, foam pad, and 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound. So far, we've done this between every 2 years and 3 years but imagine it more frequently as the boat ages. After buffing, we polish with 3M Finesse It-II finishing material with a 3M Slow Speed Buffer.

Gelcoat
We rinse the boat with fresh water after every period of use. We wash weekly when the boat is not covered, monthly when covered and not in use, using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Cleaner. We wax every three months using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Wax. We wax by hand. We buff using a 3M Slow Speed Buffer, foam pad, and 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound after 2 years and then every year. After buffing, we polish with the 3M slow speed buffer and 3M Finesse It-II finishing material using foam pads.

As long as we're at it:
Teak
We wash teak using Teak Decking Systems Eco 100 Teak Deck Cleaner (concentrate), using a soft brush and only going against the grain. We do this on average once a month when in use, every three months when not in use. However, we spot wash weekly any soiled areas. We use TDS Eco 300 Teak Cleaner Liquid for worse stains or more dirt. We've never used anything on our teak decks or any equipment other than mentioned above.

Canvas
We use a soft brush and diluted (to 50%) Dawn Free and Gentle Dishwashing Liquid about once per month when exposed, less frequently when not. We use a soft bristle brush. When needed, we use Meguiar's Canvas Cleaner for spots or dirtier areas. We use 303 Fabric Guard every every three to six months, depending on exposure, to retreat the canvas.

Strataglass
We use all IMAR products on Strataglass. We use IMAR Strataglass Protective Cleaner on the Strataglass using a soft cotton cloth. Periodically we use IMAR Stratglass Protective Polish. Both the Cleaner and Polish are used with small circular strokes.
Click to expand...

When do they ever find time to go boating? I love flat white. Gloss is overrated...
 
FlyWright said:
When do they ever find time to go boating? I love flat white. Gloss is overrated...
Click to expand...

Those are just our standards. Our presence isn't required for them. We're only on one boat at a time.

I was just trying to be informative.
 
BandB said:
Those are just our standards. Our presence isn't required for them. We're only on one boat at a time.

I was just trying to be informative.
Click to expand...





I have the same problem
I have 6 boats and find it hard to be on more than one at a time :rofl:
 
gaston said:
I have the same problem
I have 6 boats and find it hard to be on more than one at a time :rofl:
Click to expand...
Unless one boat is on another! I have sat in my dinghy while it's stowed on my trawler :thumb:
 
FlyWright said:
When do they ever find time to go boating? I love flat white. Gloss is overrated...
Click to expand...
Just one of life`s little mysteries.
BTW, "a flat white" here is an espresso coffee with milk but no cappuccino milk froth. Milk in coffee = sacrilege, imo.
 
FlyWright said:
When do they ever find time to go boating? I love flat white. Gloss is overrated...
Click to expand...

Growing up poor, and then all of a sudden finding , my life had turned around so drastically, in regard to financial success, made me feel such a sense of gratitude, that I took anal care of everything That wealth gave me,,beautiful houses, cars, boats, clothes, it was like unreal for me, and one of the ways , of koping with it, was to take extreme care of all of it. And yes, that boat would not leave the dock, unless the day before , it was detailed, no matter what it cost me, for even just for the use of it, for the day.I guess I should have spent more on the shrink.
 
Hotrod said:
Growing up poor, and then all of a sudden finding , my life had turned around so drastically, in regard to financial success, made me feel such a sense of gratitude, that I took anal care of everything That wealth gave me,,beautiful houses, cars, boats, clothes, it was like unreal for me, and one of the ways , of koping with it, was to take extreme care of all of it. And yes, that boat would not leave the dock, unless the day before , it was detailed, no matter what it cost me, for even just for the use of it, for the day.I guess I should have spent more on the shrink.
Click to expand...



How many times a hour do you check the ER ?:rofl:
 
gaston said:
How many times a hour do you check the ER ?:rofl:
Click to expand...

Every hour, you could eat your lunch down there. White bathroom runs on the floor, washed weekly. The shrink wanted 180.00 for 50minutes, I thought my way was still cheaper, besides that nitwit, was a chain smoker.
 
Hotrod said:
Growing up poor, and then all of a sudden finding , my life had turned around so drastically, in regard to financial success, made me feel such a sense of gratitude, that I took anal care of everything That wealth gave me,,beautiful houses, cars, boats, clothes, it was like unreal for me, and one of the ways , of koping with it, was to take extreme care of all of it. And yes, that boat would not leave the dock, unless the day before , it was detailed, no matter what it cost me, for even just for the use of it, for the day.I guess I should have spent more on the shrink.
Click to expand...



You never need to apologize for taking care and pride in the appearance of your boat nor for choosing to pay to have it done. That provides needed employment for others as well.

Nothing wrong with trading money for time. We do that all the time, in both directions. I go to the office every day to trade my time for my patients money. I trade money for time when I pay a guy that owns a lawn service to take care of my landscaping at home. I traded money for time and lack of back pain last year when I paid a guy to compound and wax my boat. It hadn't been done for years and needed it. I can't afford to do that every year and I don't have the time to do it myself, so it simply won't get done again for quite a while.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

David Hope
Wax or ceramic coating
Replies
17
Views
3K
Cigatoo
Cigatoo
T
GB 36 propane locker update advice
Replies
22
Views
1K
TrawlerDavid
T
O
Hello All, Looking for Research Help
Replies
8
Views
1K
orange150
O
B
Looking for fixer upper, 40ft plus…. southeastern U.S.
2
Replies
43
Views
4K
READY
R
LeoKa
Ballast bar on steel keel?
2
Replies
48
Views
3K
LeoKa
LeoKa

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom