Adding wood, (and work)

I bet I'll get slammed for this idea, but before reading the thread "Getting rid of the Wood", I was already thinking about adding some more to my pilothouse. *The current molding is cheap plastic foam trim just like you get at home depot. *It looks OK, easy to clean, cheap to replace, but it's basically crap. *A Manatee buddy recommended I do the new molding in star board, but good quality teak plywood is actually cheaper. *The star board would leave it clean and bright, and the teak would add some richness. *Of course, I'd have to either varnish or varathane the finished product. *The time and effort would be about the same.

**Here, I've included the current look and the photoshopped teak possibility, and a little color added to the cushions that would be replaced anyway. *What do you think? *

Personally, I think the wood look is beautiful! A lot of white looks very sterile, but the wood trim adds a lot to the aesthetics of the vessel.

*

Mike

Brookings, Oregon

It is a yacht with a proper wheel house.* The wood definitely adds richness and a yacht finish.

Wood is good,* Looks Much nicer in your doctored photos.

Lawrence, this is a picture of my bridge with mahogany details, I think it looks very nice.

Interior would is nice.

You might want to check out Jatoba as an alternative to teak. *What I like about Jatoba is that it naturally takes on a very rich reddish brown color over time, getting more and more attractive. *I think teak kind of goes in the other direction, eventually bleaching out and losing some character. *It is also quite cheap compared to teak, hard as nails, shapes well and finishes well. *As with teak, the trick is to fill the grain before varnishing. *I use Interprime for filling, which you can slop on (5 very quick coats) then sand flat. *Epifanes rubbed effect varnish then provides a very hard and easy to maintain finish coat. *Just a personal preference, but one that seems to be shared by most everyone who looks at the finished result. *Here are some shots of Jatoba, no stain, just fill and varnish.

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Delfin wrote:Here are some shots of Jatoba, no stain, just fill and varnish.

Click to expand...

******** Wow! Beautiful!

Lawrence,

I've got a lot of wood inside and I like it but what you may be looking for more than anything is contrast. Most all the time too much of anything is not good. I'd consider adding nothing but paint. Pick a color that's not too contrasty or it will have an "in your face effect". Pick a color that is represented on your boat often. The color itself may not be as important as it's value. Some medium greens are hardly noticeable whereas others tend to irritate. The rich and intense colors tend to look good when looking at a small color sample but giv'in a larger surface even a soft pastel color will give plenty of contrast. The very dark blue window trim on DCBD's boat looks fine because ther'es lots of other stuff all around to blend in with it but if everything else on the bridge was stark white the dark rich blue would have a bad effect on a person looking at it. For your trim color think of a color more like GB beige. I think it's actually a green and would be a good color on a persons wall at home. This is a soft unoffensive color but used as trim in a stark white space it could work very well and if it was not enough contrast it would be much better than if it was too much. Contrast is what you're looking for but a little bit goes a long way. Red Cedar is a soft wood but is very beautiful and could be very lightly oiled to almost look unfinished but finished. Varnished Cedar may be too dark but Cedar has a huge difference in summer wood and winter wood (or sap wood and heart wood) so one could be selective and use only the light summer wood. Most woods we normally use on a boat are very dark and in a very white environment would produce too much contrast. Wood inside on a boat is fine but around windows condensation run off from the windows could ruin wood visually if not worse. I'd lean toward paint that is easy to touch up and is mildew resistant.

Being on the interior if vanished does not take very much maintenance.* Maybe a couple of times*a year to polish.* I use Liquid Gold.* Last week while my wife was gone I polished the entire interior teak wood.*All the doors have those slotted vents which take the longest.* I do it twice a year mainly because of the layer of dust, and a good time to clean/go through things at the same time.*
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-- Edited by Phil Fill on Thursday 26th of May 2011 09:40:41 AM


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Thursday 26th of May 2011 10:02:11 AM

Man did this thread bring out some sumptuous photo shots! Mahogany, cedar and jatoba woods were things I didn't consider...maybe that would be the way to go. I'll price them local and see. Anything easier to work with is something I'm in favor of. Meanwhile, I sure enjoy those wonderful examples. Good point about also experimenting with some contrasting colors to see the effect. Looks like DCBD used some navy blue on the windshield frame.....nice.

-- Edited by healhustler on Thursday 26th of May 2011 09:53:56 AM

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Through out the boat we have remodeled/up graded since she is so ugly on the out side we decided to pimp her up on the inside.* Trying to make the new blend with the old original takes some doing.*
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Some of the interior wood is not Teak, but wood that had the grain, looked like the surround teak and stained to match.* The back deck wood is teak, but many of the interior book cases/shelves have only teak trim.* Oak seems to have the same grain/look.*
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People seem to be surprise how well the new matches the old, and even more surprised I built most with hand tools on the stern deck.* Had the larger pieces cut at the lumber store down to manageable size, and then cut to fit.* I used a Makita small 6" thin blade had to eye/hand fit as the boat is no square or levle.* If you do*remodel a boat forget the*square and for sure rhe level.*** The salon is a mess as my wife likes to quilt/saw during the winter.*
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*She made new salon thermal curtains that match the master bed spread, which really pimped out the salon and goes well with the teak.* All the wood has been repaired/replaced, and/or stained and re varnished in satin.* I have been thinking if re vanishing in gloss, which would really pimp the boat.** The reason I use Liquid Gold as it leave a gloss shine which makes the teak stand out.*

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-- Edited by Phil Fill on Friday 27th of May 2011 09:48:13 AM

Cherry

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Sweet!

I like Mark's discreet use of bubble wrap to contrast the warmth of the teak and holly floor.

(Delivery Day is just around the corner, huh Mark?)

Delfin wrote:
You might want to check out Jatoba as an alternative to teak. *What I like about Jatoba is that it naturally takes on a very rich reddish brown color over time, getting more and more attractive. *I think teak kind of goes in the other direction, eventually bleaching out and losing some character. *It is also quite cheap compared to teak, hard as nails, shapes well and finishes well. *As with teak, the trick is to fill the grain before varnishing. *I use Interprime for filling, which you can slop on (5 very quick coats) then sand flat. *Epifanes rubbed effect varnish then provides a very hard and easy to maintain finish coat. *Just a personal preference, but one that seems to be shared by most everyone who looks at the finished result. *Here are some shots of Jatoba, no stain, just fill and varnish.

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Click to expand...

*Very nice.* Pictures look like Hondorus mahagany---one of my favorties.* I could go for Jatoba.* Beautiful.

Here is our teak interior

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Queensland maple a popular finishing timber for local built boats.