Boat Zincs

I found this guy who has a very good business. Only zincs. But WAY cheaper than anywhere else for exotic stuff.

BoatZincs.com (978-841-9978) - The Online Superstore for Zinc Anodes

As an example I found the specific zinc set for my Sideshift Bowthruster for 31.95. Sideshift wanted 75 plus about 30 bucks in shipping from Toronto.

The prior year I bought undersized ones from WM and drilled and tapped to correct size. But even that cost more.

Not affiliated in any way, just sharing a good place to shop.

Have you been living under a Rock? they have been around since 2008. CE Beckman in New Bedford is cheaper for common zincs.

Unfortunately Beckmann appears to be a sinking ship. Yes to the rock.

Thanks for the great tip Cappy! Half$ of what I shelled out last season. Post GPS coordinates of your rock for beer placement!

Been buying from them for years. Good quality, nothing from China and very fast delivery. I also get my engine zincs from them. Just tell them the brand and model engine and you can get a complete set.

Buy $100 worth and the shipping of the very heavy box is free..

OK, this was discussed in other threads here in the forums.....why zinc? Aluminum is less expensive and has almost 3 times amperes/pound ratings.

I came to prefer the quality and pricing of the Zimar zincs from Deep Blue Yacht Supply. Great service too. My preferred on line provider for all below the water line needs.

foggysail said:

OK, this was discussed in other threads here in the forums.....why zinc? Aluminum is less expensive and has almost 3 times amperes/pound ratings.

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From my admittedly limited knowledge it has to do with whether the vessel will be in predominantly fresh or salt water. I can't quote specifics, but a knowledgeable zing store would steer you in the right direction.

If you notice some zincs are marketed for fresh water applications, some for any water. To my way of thinking, a zinc in an engine on the salt water side would be the 'salt' zinc. and a zinc on the fresh water side (the coolant)
would be the fresh water zinc.

Just in case there some of the other Queensland boaters happen on this thread, here is my source.
https://www.cathodicanodes.com.au/

They manufacture, and are on the Sunshine Coast near Mooloolaba, so its easy to just call in to pick up whatever you want.

Yes, I wish we'd start talking anodes and then talk composition. Even the zincs aren't completely zinc. But then makes it hard when they still keep their site named Boat Zincs. They have some good alloys they use. Quality.

I'm hauling out in early Jan for antifoul, re=pack one rudder shaft and seal replacement on the Naiad stabilisers. So, in preparation I priced some anodes at the local chandlery (Whitworths). They wanted $44.50 each for a 2" shaft anode!

I followed my own advice in post #10 and have paid just $16 each at the manufacturer. With a routine anode change being 4 shaft anodes and 2 pairs of 130mm rudder anodes I saved over $200 by making a 2 hour round trip in the car. Of course I bought a spare set for the following haulout as well, so total savings will be over $400. Made my day!

Just finished pencil zincs in both engines and bought my zincs from Boatzinc. They are 1/2 in price of the big box stores (BTW for the same exact brand) and the staff was awesome. This company has been around for awhile. I would strongly recommend them.

I've been using that company for years.

There is this place called Hopkins-Carter, they don't have the huge selection that Boat Zincs does but their prices are pretty good. I hear that the owner really likes Trawler Forum Folks and has been known to give an even better price to TF folks who ask for a quote.

If that little plug for my business breaks any forum rules, Mods please take it down.

good info, leave it

Ted

HopCar said:

There is this place called Hopkins-Carter, they don't have the huge selection that Boat Zincs does but their prices are pretty good. I hear that the owner really likes Trawler Forum Folks and has been known to give an even better price to TF folks who ask for a quote.

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Thanks for the reminder. I tend to forget about that potential resource.

HopCar said:

There is this place called Hopkins-Carter, they don't have the huge selection that Boat Zincs does but their prices are pretty good. I hear that the owner really likes Trawler Forum Folks and has been known to give an even better price to TF folks who ask for a quote.

If that little plug for my business breaks any forum rules, Mods please take it down.

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I searched for a 12" X 6" x 1" aluminum diver's plate recently. The only place I found to supply it was West Marine...special order. Boat Zinc guy told me he never heard of them.

foggysail said:

I searched for a 12" X 6" x 1" aluminum diver's plate recently. The only place I found to supply it was West Marine...special order. Boat Zinc guy told me he never heard of them.

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You have the wrong name, and possibly the wrong thickness.
They are called Divers Dream - do a search with that and you should have more success.

DP-612A Aluminum Anode

foggysail said:

I searched for a 12" X 6" x 1" aluminum diver's plate recently. The only place I found to supply it was West Marine...special order. Boat Zinc guy told me he never heard of them.

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Well he should be counselled.

He could have offered one in 1/2 inch or 1 1/4inch....but he might be right in that I haven't seen that zinc in 1 inch thickness in either zinc or aluminum.

Both are in the website.

cappy208 said:

From my admittedly limited knowledge it has to do with whether the vessel will be in predominantly fresh or salt water. I can't quote specifics, but a knowledgeable zing store would steer you in the right direction.

If you notice some zincs are marketed for fresh water applications, some for any water. To my way of thinking, a zinc in an engine on the salt water side would be the 'salt' zinc. and a zinc on the fresh water side (the coolant)
would be the fresh water zinc.

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BandB hit the nail on the head when he suggests we stop talking about "zincs" and instead use "anodes".

Your post prompted me to go online and search for a simple explanation of the processes involved and what to do about them. I was shocked that the first fifteen or so hits from seemingly authoritative sources had loads of incorrect information ..... oh, what the hell, they were full of s#*t.

It's tough to be concise in this area as it gets very complex very quickly but I did find one link to a Performance Metals article that has simplified it as much as it can be and is accurate to boot.

There are two warning signs to me,
1-Generic use of the word "zincs" rather than "anodes" makes me a little skeptical of the speaker.

and

2. Use of the word "electrolysis" in regards to vessel corrosion is a guarantee that the speaker has little or no knowledge of the topic (See the last two paragraphs in the link).

Insequent said:

You have the wrong name, and possibly the wrong thickness.
They are called Divers Dream - do a search with that and you should have more success.

DP-612A Aluminum Anode

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I spoke to a sales person on my cell phone and described exactly what I was looking for along with the desired dimensions. I have used the 12" X 6" X 0.5" which he suggested but it does not last the season.

The diver's plate or whatever you wish to call it is the only anode that I use externally on my 40' twin engine Silverton. And yes, I know when my wetted metals are protected or unprotected by measuring the voltage potential between them and my silver-silver chloride half cell.

The 0.5" thick plate is depleted by the end of August on my boat. I use no other external anodes.

psneeld said:

Well he should be counselled.

He could have offered one in 1/2 inch or 1 1/4inch....but he might be right in that I haven't seen that zinc in 1 inch thickness in either zinc or aluminum.

Both are in the website.

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Gees, had I known this (aluminum) was available in 1 1/4" thickness I would have purchase it.

EDIT: Yes, I found it online in their catalog. I recall looking at this anode some time ago and passed on it because the mounting holes are fixed and my not line up with my existing mounting bolts. The divers plate uses slots rather than holes.

But one thick one and drill some holes or buy 2 thin ones and stack them. Either will work.

psneeld said:

But one thick one and drill some holes or buy 2 thin ones and stack them. Either will work.

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Well yes and no as to doubling up is concerned. Yes it can be done but you have to place spacers between the two anodes further compromising a good electrical bond. The anode material is going to wear away so metal spacers are need to fasten the anode's metal plates together.

Now back to drilling new holes. Sure, one can always methodically configure solutions. Then the solutions need to be easily implemented. Remember there is a metal plate sandwiched between the each of the two anode surfaces. This means first to drill the hole/holes next ream away enough anode material to allow the metal plate to get secured to the projecting hull bolts. And teh reaming needs to be done on both sides of the anode. You cannot tighten a nut/washer combo against anode material which is going to waste away.

Thanks!!!

foggysail said:

I searched for a 12" X 6" x 1" aluminum diver's plate recently. The only place I found to supply it was West Marine...special order. Boat Zinc guy told me he never heard of them.

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foggy...

boatzincs.com has Alum plate anodes in several sizes including 12" x 6" in 1/2" and 1" thicknesses.

I've started using them in place of the traditional oval hull anodes - I use the old anode as a template & drill the plates for the bolt spacing desired.

foggysail said:

I spoke to a sales person on my cell phone and described exactly what I was looking for along with the desired dimensions. I have used the 12" X 6" X 0.5" which he suggested but it does not last the season.

The diver's plate or whatever you wish to call it is the only anode that I use externally on my 40' twin engine Silverton. And yes, I know when my wetted metals are protected or unprotected by measuring the voltage potential between them and my silver-silver chloride half cell.

The 0.5" thick plate is depleted by the end of August on my boat. I use no other external anodes.

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Hmm, I hear you on the need for a thicker anode under current conditions. Although I did not mean a pun, I guess that could be the real issue. ie do you or does someone else nearby have some AC returning via the water? It seems to me your anode consumption rate is very high.

I ask because on my boat the PO had wired a neutral to earth jumper on the 'shore-genny' switch. That caused 15A (out of the 30A supply) returning via the water. The marina traced the problem to my boat's system after someone a few slips along complained about high anode consumption.

Bacchus said:

foggy...

boatzincs.com has Alum plate anodes in several sizes including 12" x 6" in 1/2" and 1" thicknesses.

I've started using them in place of the traditional oval hull anodes - I use the old anode as a template & drill the plates for the bolt spacing desired.

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Don-- I purchased the anode in question sometime in August for next spring. I don't know why I had a tough time back then trying to locate one. It is good to see they are gaining favor.

Insequent said:

Hmm, I hear you on the need for a thicker anode under current conditions. Although I did not mean a pun, I guess that could be the real issue. ie do you or does someone else nearby have some AC returning via the water? It seems to me your anode consumption rate is very high.

I ask because on my boat the PO had wired a neutral to earth jumper on the 'shore-genny' switch. That caused 15A (out of the 30A supply) returning via the water. The marina traced the problem to my boat's system after someone a few slips along complained about high anode consumption.

Click to expand...

No known grounding problems. Remember, this is my only anode. No anodes on rudders, shafts, trim tabs. I can get by without shaft anodes because I have shaft brushes tied to the bonding system. Personally, I think many folks use too many anodes but to each his own. The best tool that you can use to verify your anode performance is the silver-silver chloride half cell......or other types of half cells with their appropriate voltage chart.

I practically stole mine on EBay for $30 brand new.