Looking for PNW Cruising Advice

Bruce B Wifey D said:

Depending on how that goes in the first week or so, (as well as what the weather patterns are), we'll either keep our cruise more local to Puget Sound and the San Juans/Gulf Islands, or take a leap up into BC. We will definitely want to get the boat out into some weather and sea conditions during this phase. Testing the boat's capabilities, pushing her a little to get out of comfort zones, learning how she handles different sea conditions (and how to handle her in said conditions), getting a sense of the pros and cons of different cruising speeds, developing shipboard patterns and customs will all be priorities, and how far afield we go sooner or later in the cruise will all grow out of the results of the emerging experience.

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Lots of opportunity to try things out. If you went North up the Swinnomish you can then cross Rosario Strait to the San Juans. Not a big crossing at all, but depending on wind and current conditions it can be rough. If you choose to head South from the San Juans to Port Townsend, you can cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It can be glass smooth or it can dangerous as hell. Not the place I would look for rough weather experience.

South of Port Townsend, Admiralty Inlet can get rough depending on wind and current conditions as it is a big stretch of water, exposed to the prevailing Southerlies if the wind gets up. As I found out, even in the South Sound the seas can surprise you. I would rather explore the handling in waters that are close to help, provisioning, and repair as needed in a new boat.

I may sound unnecessarily cautious, and if there weren't a lot of great cruising opportunities close in it would be different. But for a shakedown, why not stay close?

In my experience I'd go in April when you will be the only boat you see in an anchorage. In the summer, the wind often blows at night and since everybody thinks they can anchor with 3:1 scope, you wind up having to dodge dragging boats.

But seriously, you can't see everything in the San Juans inside of a time measured in years, and do expect that you will often be the only cruising boat you see in anything than perfect weather that time of year.

You are going to have so much fun! Based on some of your other posts I have a few recommendations that are different from the excellent advice you have already received. Having cruised the PNW for six years now, here's what my wife and I would do.

First, join a PNW yacht club with reciprocal privileges. There are a few "virtual" clubs that will cost you less than $100 for your first year. This will get you an average of two nights per reciprocal at $5 per night including power. Figure your boat will typically cost $40-50 per night at most public docks.

LaConner is a great little town. Head south and visit Langley, then Everett (several recipes in Everett). Mosey down to Edmonds and use our recip. Great restaurants and the dog park is a short walk to the south end of the marina. If your dogs are good with other dogs they will have a ball. Get in touch with me to arrange drinks and dinner with us.

Head south and go through the locks. You must do this! Recips abound. Definitely visit Seattle Yacht Club (recip) for a night or two. Take a slow cruise through the "cut" and go to Bellevue (recip). More great restaurants and shopping.

Come back through the cut and spend two nights at Tyee YC (recip) and watch the boats cruise by. Go back through the locks and go to Bell Harbor in Seattle (no recip there). Fantastic city views and you are in the heart of the city.

Head south to Tacoma (recips) and visit the Chihuly glass museum and the car museum (name escapes me). It is a beautiful run to Olympia (recip). Coming back, stop at Gig Harbor (recip), Bremerton (recip), Poulsbo (recip and one of our favorite weekend destinations). Then Kingston, Port Ludlow, and Port Townsend (all recips).

From Port Townsend we would visit Victoria, then spend a week in the Gulf Islands and cross back to the San Juans and stop at Roche Harbor to clear customs, then Friday Harbor, Lopez Island and back to LaConner.

When you don't want to stay at a marina there are anchorages just about everywhere. I would save a long run North for later in the summer with the beautiful August weather. If you want to get together feel free to email me at rob dot meldrum at gmail dot com.

Robster_in_edmonds said:

LaConner is a great little town.

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Yes, it is! We had dinner at the "Oyster and Thistle" and it was quite possibly the finest meal we've had out in the past 10 years. We still talk about it. Moorage was $45 for the night including power. The cheapest fuel in the north sound is in Oak Harbour and they give complementary moorage for the night with a fill.

I am spending Thanksgiving on the boat at Poulsbo. Of course the weather is a bit typical, South wind 15-20, rain, and temps in the low 40's. Perfect PNW day.

Great photo. With a little chop on the water these become invisible.

There is a new blog called slow boat.com that one may find useful in the PNW.

Old deckhand said:

There is a new blog called slow boat.com that one may find useful in the PNW.

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Funny that you mention this. I knew about showboat.com, but haven't really looked at it. Checked again, with your link, and realized that I had run into these folks before, because we too have an Airstream, and Laura & Kevin have the blog Riveted featuring photography from their Airstreaming adventures. Small world, good resources! Thank you for the reminder.

dhays said:

I am spending Thanksgiving on the boat at Poulsbo. Of course the weather is a bit typical, South wind 15-20, rain, and temps in the low 40's. Perfect PNW day.

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That's the weather we are anticipating and preparing for!

JDCAVE said:

Yes, it is! We had dinner at the "Oyster and Thistle" and it was quite possibly the finest meal we've had out in the past 10 years. We still talk about it. Moorage was $45 for the night including power. The cheapest fuel in the north sound is in Oak Harbour and they give complementary moorage for the night with a fill.

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Nice tips!

YES ......

Oyster and Thistle is wonderful.

Oyster and Thistle is our favorite restaurant in LaConner. Nothing else comes close. Drinks and lunch in the pub-style bar, summertime on their patio, and dinner upstairs is soooo good. Big thumbs-up!

Robster_in_edmonds said:

Oyster and Thistle is our favorite restaurant in LaConner. Nothing else comes close. Drinks and lunch in the pub-style bar, summertime on their patio, and dinner upstairs is soooo good. Big thumbs-up!

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Oh yes! Great minds think alike!

The Wild West.
I'm going to give you a completely different point of view: forget about the San Juans, they are populated with airports, post offices, banks and street lights etc. - you might as well go to Annapolis. The topography is flat and uninteresting. If you want to experience west coast adventure boating, head north. Go to Princess Louisa inlet and see the Chatterbox Falls surrounded by 5000 ft granite walls. You have to go through Malibu Rapids to get there, which run at about 12 knots through a channel that's crooked as a dog's hind leg. It's an adventure.

Go stay at the Backeddy Marina and hike to the Skookemchuck tidal rapids that run over 20 knots and are a favourite destination for white water kayakers from around the world.

There's lots more adventure to be had north of there too. You won't have time to go north of Cape Caution, but you won't be bored in Desolation Sound and the Discovery Islands.

Have fun.

Cheers.

JDCAVE said:

Oh yes! Great minds think alike!

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Great info!

ehirtz said:

The Wild West.
I'm going to give you a completely different point of view: forget about the San Juans, they are populated with airports, post offices, banks and street lights etc. - you might as well go to Annapolis. The topography is flat and uninteresting. If you want to experience west coast adventure boating, head north. Go to Princess Louisa inlet and see the Chatterbox Falls surrounded by 5000 ft granite walls. You have to go through Malibu Rapids to get there, which run at about 12 knots through a channel that's crooked as a dog's hind leg. It's an adventure.

Go stay at the Backeddy Marina and hike to the Skookemchuck tidal rapids that run over 20 knots and are a favourite destination for white water kayakers from around the world.

There's lots more adventure to be had north of there too. You won't have time to go north of Cape Caution, but you won't be bored in Desolation Sound and the Discovery Islands.

Have fun.

Cheers.

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I really hope we will be able to get up to Princess Louisa Inlet. I suspect it will depend on shakedown, weather, and timing. Fingers crossed. And thanks for the other great info.

Sorry but I did not have the patience to read all the posts(bad on me) Did you say early April? Did anybody mention the weather issue. Maybe the locals can deal with April but after 20 years in the NW I would still avoid long exposure on the water. Think wet very wet,cold and possible high wind. Most locals prefer July August and September. If you go in April you will have most places to yourself.

eyshulman,
No. The fishermen will be heading north. But they aren't going for fun and are highly motivated to get there. Most should move to Alaska IMO.
But it's 1000 miles up (and back) so starting early is good for the cruiser too. And 1000 miles just gets one to the very southern tip of Alaska. Most want to go to Glacier Bay and Skagway. Then it's a 3000 mile trip. So starting early has merit.

Nomad Willy said:

eyshulman,
No. The fishermen will be heading north. But they aren't going for fun and are highly motivated to get there. Most should move to Alaska IMO.
But it's 1000 miles up (and back) so starting early is good for the cruiser too. And 1000 miles just gets one to the very southern tip of Alaska. Most want to go to Glacier Bay and Skagway. Then it's a 3000 mile trip. So starting early has merit.

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Huh... Alaska is big but SE isn't that far, from Gig Harbor to Ketchikan is less 750 nm. Another 250 or so to Juneau, and from Auke Bay to Skagway is less than 100 nm Glacier Bay to Auke Bay probably 50nm

AT and Airstream? You should check out our blog (Riveted - link in my signature line). We've done extensive cruising in the area you're looking at - Puget Sound through the top of SE Alaska - 500+ nights aboard the past two years - bunches of posts on destinations. (Also tons of Airstreaming in there.)

EDIT: Oh, I just noticed earlier in the thread you already found us.

I agree that I would not venture far north in April on your timeframe. There is an incredible amount to see in the San Juans and Puget Sound. I personally wouldn't do SE Alaska from there with less than about 2.5 months, and I'd start in May or June. April weather is too iffy for the Cape Caution and Dixon Entrance crossings, as well as some of the sometimes-nastier straights. You need time to wait for your weather windows.

Kevin

Hi Dorsey and Bruce!

We'll be heading back up to SE AK (leading a flotilla) in May, but we'll be around in April and would love to meet up with you guys when you're here! (Super convenient is that little RV park right next to the AT factory!) LaConner is great, and we second/third the Oyster and Thistle recommendation. If you're up for a splurge, check out The Willows Inn on Lummi Island. Highly recommended!!

There's so much to see in the San Juans/Puget Sound/Gulf Islands...I really don't expect you'll get bored. We cruise this area from October through April, and it's lovely. Even in crappy weather (now that you don't have a sailboat, that will be more true). You'll have a brand new boat to play with, and some great areas to explore...I think you'll love it!

Hope to see you in April! Congrats on the new AT!

LDomela said:

Hope to see you in April! Congrats on the new AT!

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Hi Laura and Kevin,

We actually stumbled across your Riveted blog some time ago and picked up on the Airstream-Tug connection back then. Nice to connect here!

Yes indeed, we are looking forward to the tug. I'm gradually working through my angst at leaving sailing behind, but that should not be confused with any lack of enthusiasm for the new AT. Certainly as I watch weather patterns in the PNW I'm quite pleased that we won't be sailing!

Speaking of weather patterns... it has been interesting reading the diverse opinions on this thread about what we should do with our 3-4 weeks in April. If I'm to be truly honest, I'd have to confess that I suspect the realities of the time of year, shakedown priority, weather and amount of time available all point towards a Puget Sound/San Juans/Gulf Islands cruise, with a possible hit in Vancouver. As much as I'd really like to get up into Princess Louisa, I'm guessing that would be too much of a stretch given every thing else we'll be fussing with. We are going to try to keep our options open as much as possible and make decisions on the fly (that's pretty much how we roll anyway), but we need to be realistic about grasping for too much. It's is frustrating not being able to "do it all", but that can't be helped. I'm comforted by comments such as yours that indicate we can have a great time even staying in Puget and the San Juans.

And yes, how about that little campground right at the marina in La Conner? Talk about convenient! When I saw that as I poked around looking for a place for us to stay when we arrive in the Airstream, it seemed too good to be true.

Hope to see you when we get there. We'll certainly be posting here, but you can also keep up with us via our new website, www.brucebeard.com (which we have just put together to replace our defunct/decrepit website www.esmeralde.net).

Thanks for your advice...

Bruce B Wifey D said:

Yes indeed, we are looking forward to the tug. I'm gradually working through my angst at leaving sailing behind, but that should not be confused with any lack of enthusiasm for the new AT. Certainly as I watch weather patterns in the PNW I'm quite pleased that we won't be sailing!

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One of the things you can do if you wish, is choose incredible sailing destinations to charter a sailboat for a day here and there while cruising in your AT. You can enjoy the best of sailing while getting there in the luxury and comfort of your AT. We're not sailors but do enjoy a day here and there on a sailboat. Now we enjoy it with someone else doing all the work You'd enjoy the work. We've had incredible experiences sailing in San Francisco, Cancun, Annapolis, Cape Cod, Virgin Islands, and various other places along the way. We only sail three or four times a year typically, but have the best of it, only on great days and in great sailing waters. Wind always perfect.

We're the same with fishing, do it with about the same frequency.

Weather Patterns and diverse opinions

I was thinking the same thing (about the diverse opinions). It bummed me out to hear people saying you'd be bored in the San Juans and that you might as well go to Annapolis. First of all, isn't this your first time exploring this area? There are SO many great spots in the San Juans alone...and to be exploring with a new boat...I don't know...maybe it depends on your outlook, but I have a feeling you'll enjoy it all. Little towns like Roche Harbor are charming, places like Sucia Island have some gorgeous hiking trails, and when it's clear, the view of Mount Baker is stunning. Yeah, heading more north into BC and Alaska...the scenery does get more dramatic, but you'll have a blast even if you're slumming it in the San Juans. Save BC and SEAK for when you have more time. Also, you never know about Princess Louisa. The weather might be perfect for it, and you might get all the shakes out so you feel comfortable enough to head up there....winging it is great!

I'll keep up with the new website, and we'll be in touch!

LDomela said:

. It bummed me out to hear people saying you'd be bored in the San Juans and that you might as well go to Annapolis.

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Wifey B: I don't know how people get bored exploring on the water. It's not the area that's boring, it's the person. I've not yet explored any area I found to be boring. Now, some I move on from quicker than others but almost all I look forward to returning to one day. We love Annapolis, by the way, one of our faves. But I do so look forward to returning to the PNW. The islands are all so cool, but then we had Alaska to see, and then the coast and just not enough time in a year or life. If you're getting bored, I'd suggest looking a little harder. I haven't been anywhere that didn't have something unique and special. Even if returning you'll see something for the first time. Getting bored is an attitude. I find ways to keep myself amused.

Oh my, it's so beautiful today. 80 degrees, breeze as we cruise at 20 knots, hitting us gently on the bridge. Water so peaceful and calm with 2' at 5 seconds. Thinking of all we'll do tonight and tomorrow. Looking out at the beauty of the sea.

Agreed on all fronts! (And regarding Annapolis, I was just quoting the previous poster who seemed to dislike it, but if they're putting Annapolis in the same category as the San Juan Islands...well, then by default I'd probably like Annapolis too! But then I like most places I can go by boat! I'm easy like that.)

We're a pretty diverse and fun bunch around here so whatever you choose to do if you want some company just ask!

Cheers,
Bob

Ka_sea_ta said:

Huh... Alaska is big but SE isn't that far, from Gig Harbor to Ketchikan is less 750 nm. Another 250 or so to Juneau, and from Auke Bay to Skagway is less than 100 nm Glacier Bay to Auke Bay probably 50nm

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Ka,
Your milage I think is as the crow flies. Sea To Ket is 800 and change but as a straight line. By the time you go like a snake up the coast and out of the way to get to anchorages and points of interest Sea to Ket could be 1200 to 1500 mi. And running about in SE could easily run up 1500.

I admit it's possible my memory is bad and I'm basing this all on the 800 or so miles to Ketchikan. Took us 23 days on our 6 knot Willard LaConner to Ketchikan. And we were not sight seeing. Whatever the number it's a long way even if only one way.

Wifey B writes;
"Oh my, it's so beautiful today. 80 degrees, breeze as we cruise at 20 knots, hitting us gently on the bridge. Water so peaceful and calm with 2' at 5 seconds. Thinking of all we'll do tonight and tomorrow. Looking out at the beauty of the sea." With her along it may only be a few hundred miles.

Eric

Yes, meandering around can well stretch the distance to SEAlaska by quite a lot. When headed north we are watching the weather and tides a few days ahead to judge required distances traveled so the run up to Ketchikan is as speedy as possible. So we'll tend to straight line it.

On our way south a few months later, once past Prince Rupert we enjoy the BC summer and fall as decent Alaska weather shuts down behind us. We've found it amazing how the line between wet and dry weather changes south of Prnce Rupert.

I'm headed up now to enjoy the Gulf Is. Gale force winds in Haro Strait and temperatures dropping to near freezing. I bet you will be seeing snow in Concrete.

Sunchaser,
Indeed, and I'm about to check the weather report now. We have no heat backup (at home) and am thinking of getting a generator that will fire our pellet stove. Could be useful on the boat too. Got the flu now so not good for anything but reduced posting.

That's interesting about the weather line at Rupert. Never noticed that but always been very fond of northern BC. Especially Cape Caution to Shearwater. My love for Canada and having lived there a bit in the 70's has to do w it. Wanna get back.

Glad your out. I'm still not ready to get underway. Fixes to get done. Got a better moorage spot in the south basin now.