Prepare to tow or be towed.

I'm not sure why, but each year we are presented with an opportunity to lend a hand, and I always look at these as chances both to assist and to become a better seaman. We've pulled the bow of a 65' Scottish trawler to windward so they could exit a difficult moorage without sinking their neighbors in Poulsbo, retrieved a 28' sailboat that had drug its mooring in Tofino, rescued a 38' Hans Christian whose engine had failed and was within minutes of fetching up aground, towed an engineless sailboat into Victoria, and pulled an elderly gentleman out of the drink who had fallen off his boat north of Lopez Island. *

As long as it doesn't endanger my vessel, failure to help another mariner isn't a moral option, IMHO, and I don't have much regard for someone who puts convenience or fear of complications ahead of the safety of others. *Hope that doesn't sound too preachy, but there you are.

Carey and Larry H seem to be missing a point here. The Canadian Coast Guard removed the vessel from Peril. That is in the finest tradition of the sea. But, even the Canadian Coats guard is subject to physics - to think otherwise is foolish.It still put the small tow boat in a precarious position. Was it worth it? Probably yes! I'm am not going to debate Carey or Larry on the pros and cons of towing. I was a young Coast Guardsman at one time-if iI am now an old blowhard so be it. We all learn from this forum, if somebody sees the Coast guard do something and they assume it is ok, I would like to point out that it isn't safe. Prove me wrong. Rob said there were very strong currents. This sets the stage for disaster in this situation. Thank god nothing did happen!
I'm happy Alaskans are so eager to help. That is the way it should be. Anybody that has spent time on the water probably has helped, and been helped.

-- Edited by Sailor of Fortune on Sunday 13th of March 2011 03:16:01 PM

Jack,

I respect your advice and experience. You have a whole lot more that I do when it comes to towing and CG work. Those small fast rescue boats are normally manned by one experienced full time Coast Guardsman and two part time summer guys. You can see that the helmsman is older that the other two crew. Perhaps the Guardsman in charge did not realize the danger, however, you would think the officer in charge of the cutter would know.

Ron,

When you said the CG small boat was being towed by the cutter, can you tell us how the small boat was being towed? Was it from the bow towing bit? Your photos don't show the actual tow hookup.


Seymour Narrows is one bad ass place, and has eaten many ships and boats over the years. Even near slack, the currents and swirls are awesome. I usually avoid Seymour and use the Dent-Yaculta rapids in the inner channels, when traveling up or down the coast.

Looks to me like the CG did the tow in the quickest way possible. Looks like grave danger was so imminent the time to rig up the desired towing arrangement was not a good option.
They took the quick and shaky option to get the job done. The towing bit on the small CG boat was probably the weak link and the 110 could probably easily have pulled the bow bit right out. But they didn't AND they managed to tow the distressed vessel to safety. Perhaps this was a tremendous display of excellent seamanship accomplished w an undesirable rig in the nick of time. Rob, you never told me about this one.

Eric- I don't want to bore people with bad adventures. These are simply some of the Low Lights from several years ago, as you kno we've had a ton of great cruising adventures over many years and several thousand miles of traveling Alaska and B.C. You kno nothing bad ever happens if you never leave the dock. I look foreward to another cruising season this summer.

Here's a picture of my wife and a couple of her friends "Gettin' Ready to Get a Toe Job"
They were very well prepared, lots of sun and cold drinks.

Rob and Anne
"Lady Anne" Willard 40 PH
La Conner, WA/Girdwood, AK

Rob wrote:


Here's a picture of my wife and a couple of her friends "Gettin' Ready to Get a Toe Job"

Click to expand...

Har har har!!
Very funny

You are out of control dude.

Go to your room.

SD*

I hope to install as towing package for the dink/run about, so they can be towed up tight to the swim*deck held in place by two side arm when in the marina and manuvering, and be able*to let out when out in open water.* the winch will be DC controller from the stern deck.* The commercial boat have a towing package in the tender, but the dink and run about are fiberglass, so a tow hitch receiver will be installed under the swim plat form that the package will be slide into.** I will be using regular*boat trailer parts/rollers/pads but make with alluminum.

The drawing is rough, which the machine and*fab shop just love as they deal in 1/1000 of an inch and I come in with a drawing*and say make it sort like this?* Actaully*I will tow the boats to the shop and have them fitted*up, so*the shop sort of understand what I am trying to do.* Another crazy Phil/Fill project.***

If ti does not work it will go in th pile with the other crazy Phil's ideas.*

What do you think?**Any ideas comments?*

*

*

**



-- Edited by Phil Fill on Tuesday 5th of April 2011 02:08:28 PM


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Tuesday 5th of April 2011 03:06:54 PM

Healhustler/Tex on another site posted a picture of a Krogan like his, that had a tow package, except the tow package was attached to the dink and a hitch on the stern.* *I do not want to mess up the dink and dont need/want it on the transom all the time. So make it so it can be taken off/on and maybe taken apart to be stored.* ****
*
Might be best to just keep the dink up tight against the swim step?* The one I have seen are tailor make to keep the dink/tender right up close/solid so there is not give/play, since we are only going about 8 knots.* Probable a lot more complicated than it seems?* I sure would like to be able to tow the 19 ft run about with out to much trouble.* **

Why not just tie the tender alongside? Can you imagine trying to get this rig hooked up under your swim platform? You are asking for injuries and dings in both boats IMHO. With a bowline, spring and stern line properly adjusted on the dink/runabout you can do everything you need to do with the mother ship. Am I missing something here? What is this tow rig supposed to do other than get to a berth?

*No need to re-invent the wheel.


-- Edited by Sailor of Fortune on Tuesday 5th of April 2011 04:48:21 PM

I sort of/pretty much*get it, Willy, but it would be nice to see it on video.

Not meaning to hijack the post, but my no. 3 son has fallen in love with Canada, after a*season working in Banf, he would love to get invovled on the water as this is his first love.He was going to enter the navy after graduation but wanted to see a bit of the world first. Most of his working experience to date has been in & around boats down here in Oz. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Andy

Gee, Andy.* Why didn't you just start a new thread?* Your post has no relevance here.

*
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yeah sorry you are right, appologies all

Willy,

I have a 10' RIB on Weaver Davits, but I just bought a 14' C-Dory that I want to tow sometimes.* Your information isn't confusing, just the opposite.* I have been told not to tow, that I shouldn't tie up bow and stern parallel to the swim step, don't tow without a bridle and on and on.* It sounds like you're doing all of the above from time to time.* Even your trick for slowing the towed boat in a following sea sounds workable.* You're description makes me think it's all doable and that I should just start in and learn what works.

Lyle

Willy, I sort of get what you are describing. However being a wide body, no side decks and the being so high off the water makes side tying difficult.* I am more concerned about the run about crashing/banging into the pretty varnished teak swim deck that I work so hard on and would like to tow it length wise.
*
I envision the tow package to be sort of like the front end of a trailer with a winch to keep the run about from hitting teak swim step.* So with a winch the run about could be towed with the bow up tight or could be let out.*** The run about could be keep center behind the Eagle with two side lines tied to the two stern/side of the run about and to the side cleats of the Eagle.** So I am going to start just with the receiver on the Eagle, basically copy the front end of the trailer, and use line to keep centered.*

Willy wrote:
Markpierce, video ? now trying ta do that will probably get me sinking line around the prop.

Click to expand...

*You're right, Willy.* Hadn't thought of that likelihood.

*

Here is a tow system I have used for towing my 14 ft. jon boat with a 25HP outboard on the Mississippi. *I typically tow at 12 to 15 kts. *On the Mississippi, we have locks on average every 30 miles or so. *I typically tow with the boat about 60 ft. back, but when locking thru I need to have control of the towed boat to keep it from drifting into other boats. *the currents in a filling lock can and will push the towed boat all over the place. *Pulling up the a fuel dock, *marina or beaching on a sand bar, is the same. *This rig keeps the boat under control, there are no lines in the water to run over if I need to back up. *I can go from long to short or back in a couple minutes. *Once the lines are made up, rigging only takes about 5 minutes.

Some general thoughts, I use 3/8" solid braid polypropylene. *It is very cheap at about $5 per 100 ft. length at the local lumber and home store. *It is soft on the hands, The Admiral likes that. *It floats, but that's not enough to keep it out of the prop if I'm towing long and *I back up. *If I stop for a few minutes, with the towed boat drifting, I don't start up again without knowing for sure where the lines are. * Ski tow rope floats are not a good idea because they kick up a lot of spray, if they drag in the water

*When pulling in the tow to hook up short, the loops in the short bridle come right back to you when you pull in the long lines. *If you accidentally drop the short loop you can pull it back in with the long line.

*The lengths of the lines are important. *In the close up bridle, there needs to be about 3" to 4" slack in the lines going to the bow eye. *The lines running to the aft cleats of the towed boat should have about 10" slack. *This allows the loop to be easily looped over the big boat's cleats, as well as allow the towed boat to move a little to bounce in the waves or wakes. * The lengths of the long lines need to be matched, a difference of a few inches makes a big difference in where the towed boat centers up behind. *The towed boat tows much easier if it is positioned on the downward side of the wake wave, as compared to the uphill side of the wave. *Be careful that the up close loops don't drag in the water and kick up spray that lands in the towed boat. *It can add up to a lot of water in the boat after a few hours tow. * This set up makes the towed boat behave well in waves and boat wakes. *there is no tendency to bow steer. *Using two lines to tow seems much safer to me. *I can always picture realizing I hadn't looked back at the tow for ten minutes, looking back and seeing only the line and no boat, and wondering where did I loose it. *And pulling on three points instead of just one, the bow eye, is a lot easier on equipment. *Bow eyes can break.

And best part of all, its cheap. *$10 for line, $10 for two bow eye snaps, *$25 for the trailer roller, and $0.50 for a foot of plastic water line. *Whole thing for under $50. *More money for beer.






-- Edited by Capn Craig on Friday 8th of April 2011 01:27:25 AM



-- Edited by Capn Craig on Friday 8th of April 2011 01:29:11 AM



-- Edited by Capn Craig on Sunday 10th of April 2011 08:37:09 PM


-- Edited by Capn Craig on Sunday 10th of April 2011 08:39:47 PM

Links don't work for me.

The links to not open as a pass work is required.

Document.pdf (82 KB)[Open as Web Page]

Document.pdf (37 KB)[Open as Web Page]*

Craig, it sound like your idea is some what similar as mine, but I want to used a solid tow*bar which could*maybe very in length as to what is the best distance to tow at.* The best might be to just*use bumpers/fenders to protect the swim step and dink.* Most of the towing packages I have seen are solid, but they are on commercial trawlers, which I tend to follow.**

I seen a package years ago for pleasure boats.* I think they were made by*Sea Wise*company that makes Davits that tilt*up and the motor mount pivots so the engine is vertical and supported?* Tex email me last night and said he would post the picture of the tow package on a Krogan in his marina.*

*

Here's the set-up that Phil/Fill was talking about on a very special 36 Krogen Manatee on Gulf Coast Florida. *He travels to spend summers in the Great Lakes, and then returns for winters in Florida. *Last time I heard, the boat had 22 (yes that is twenty two) loops on it.

**The dingy is a big, heavy thing with a 90 HP outboard. *It is equipped with bull-bars on the front of the dingy, and a custom tow hitch to attach it to the stern. *When not in use, he uses that massive boom to hoist it up on the custom cradle on the back of the boat deck. *If the main goes out in the Manatee, the dingy can push the whole works at a reported 4 knots. *I think he can also back-up with the unit attached.

**First picture is the dingy sitting on the custom cradle with bull bars and hitch bracket visible. *Second is the stern with hitch. *Third is underway with dingy hitched to stern.

Phil Fill wrote:
The links to not open as a pass work is required.*

Craig, it sound like your idea is some what similar as mine, but I want to used a solid tow*bar which could*maybe very in length as to what is the best distance to tow at.* The best might be to just*use bumpers/fenders to protect the swim step and dink.* Most of the towing packages I have seen are solid, but they are on commercial trawlers, which I tend to follow.**

I seen a package years ago for pleasure boats.* I think they were made by*Sea Wise*company that makes Davits that tilt*up and the motor mount pivots so the engine is vertical and supported?* Tex email me last night and said he would post the picture of the tow package on a Krogan in his marina.*

*

Click to expand...

I FINALLY FIGURED OUT HOW TO ATTACH THE SKETCHES. *THANK YOU, ADMIRAL

Click to expand...

I show a trailer roller in my sketch. * But in reality it could be a high dollar fender that I see in the West Marine Catalog. *that *hooks over the edge of the swim step *It looks like it would work well but I'm too cheap to *pony the $100+ that they want. *It really comes down to how high the swim step is. * I have 3" dock edging pop riveted to the gunnels of my flat bottom all around. *It is really nice, as I don't worry a bit about the boat rubbing up against the mother ship. *I also have the same dock edging attached to the edges of the swim step. *I built the swim step a few years back. *it is surfaced with 3/4" Starboard with a welded aluminum sub structure. * It was/is the best improvement I made to the last boat. *I am thinking very seriously about stretching it 10~11 feet wide to fit the new to me Californian. *It is way nicer than the thing that came from the factory.

Click to expand...

*

*


-- Edited by Capn Craig on Sunday 10th of April 2011 09:04:03 PM

healhustler wrote:
Here's the set-up that Phil/Fill was talking about on a very special 36 Krogen Manatee on Gulf Coast Florida. *He travels to spend summers in the Great Lakes, and then returns for winters in Florida. *Last time I heard, the boat had 22 (yes that is twenty two) loops on it.

**The dingy is a big, heavy thing with a 90 HP outboard. *It is equipped with bull-bars on the front of the dingy, and a custom tow hitch to attach it to the stern. *When not in use, he uses that massive boom to hoist it up on the custom cradle on the back of the boat deck. *If the main goes out in the Manatee, the dingy can push the whole works at a reported 4 knots. *I think he can also back-up with the unit attached.

**First picture is the dingy sitting on the custom cradle with bull bars and hitch bracket visible. *Second is the stern with hitch. *Third is underway with dingy hitched to stern.

My fear would be do the bars kick up spray when the dinghy is at or approaching planning speed. * Nothing cheap, small or simple here.

Click to expand...

*

*

Tex thanks for posting the picture.* That picture started me think about being able to push the Eagle as I plan on towing a 20 ft boat with a good size hp engine to be another get home.* Towns and dock in BC Canada and Alaska are few and far between.*************
*
Craig, that is short of what I am thinking of, but the teak deck also need to be protected that is why I keep think of installing a trailer hitch received under the swim platform for the rollers and a winch that can be take off and on.**The two stern tie line should take the pressure off the bow eye.* At the same time I want to move the teak deck out about 3 to 6 inches to make it wider since the stern is slanted backwards, so there is no need for the deck to be up close to the stern.*Aso the idea of the*short and long lines for towing
*
*
*

Old Stone wrote:
"Bucky" - Maybe it's just me, but what the heck is the size of that outboard on your dingy? Looks pretty big!

Oops, just saw that it is 90 hp. Wow, would think that cold tear the transom right off the dingy, but obviously not.

Click to expand...

Nope....that's not mine....it's Mana-Tee over on the Gulf Coast. If you look close, you can see lots of other heavy mods on his boat, including rails, mast, rigging, even the pilothouse doors. Fortunately, the Manatee has a low center of gravity, and quite a bit of reserve stability, which is pretty forgiving of heavy mods, despite its bloated form.