Alternators for Ford Lehman

Cool. While I don't need that much that's the way to go I'd say. So you have 250amp alternator and a control system. Interested in a few more details just for my continuing education.

So you have 250amp alternator and a control system

A common method of getting up to 300A o 12 or 24V is a bus alternator.

Golderskookum said:

Thanks everyone for lively discussion and lots of ideas. The isolator is obviously gone to be replaced most likely by an ACR although the Adverc controller is also very interesting. The question I now have is whether I need a completely new alternator as well. The one I have is 35 amp which doesn't sound like much against some of the one's mentioned but would be quite sufficient if I could get it to pump out 15-20 amps continuously. Is there some way to get it to do this? Do I have to by pass the interior regulator and feed it directly to an ACR or the Adverc?

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First off, I would simply bypass that diode battery isolator, and see if it improves the charging, you do not need it nothing will be damaged. All it does is prevent backfeeding between batteries if one is bad it won't drain the other. You can use a 12vdc continuous duty high amp relay connected so oil or fuel pump pressure turns it on or ACR which monitors charge voltage to turn on and off, much better than battery isolator as everyone has said.

And verify the grounding of the alternator case back to the negative post on the battery.
Was helping a slipmate with alternator that did not put out much power, volts were low.
Ran a big wire direct from alternator to battery and it worked again. He was on his 3rd alternator. Surprised me, you would think direct metal to metal by way of bolts would pass current, his did not, he had high resistance in the negative ground circuit.

sdowney717 said:

First off, I would simply bypass that diode battery isolator, and see if it improves the charging, you do not need it nothing will be damaged. All it does is prevent backfeeding between batteries if one is bad it won't drain the other. You can use a 12vdc continuous charge relay or ACR, much better than battery isolator as everyone has said.
And verify the grounding of the alternator case back to the negative post on the battery.
.

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Good idea to check proper grounding of alt to battery.
I have suggested bypassing splitter 3 times above, others have as well, I think OP has stock in the diode splitter company LOL. I still don't think he has mentioned the size of his battery bank/s. Good thing we have time to waste,,,

Brooksie said:

Good idea to check proper grounding of alt to battery.
I have suggested bypassing splitter 3 times above, others have as well, I think OP has stock in the diode splitter company LOL. I still don't think he has mentioned the size of his battery bank/s. Good thing we have time to waste,,,

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Yes, time to waste was true.
He went about a week trying to figure it out. He was having so much trouble and we did not know if any of his alternators were good. I unbolted mine and connected it to his system, and it did not work. So I know it was something in the boat wiring. After that it took me about an hour to figure out the ground was the problem. He had bought 2 new alternators and none of the 3 he had were bad..

After we fixed his system, I told him he should get rid of his battery isolator, but he did not want to either.

Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We are packing up the boat now for the winter. We will leave it on the Rhone at L'Ardoise. More research over the winter and a Spring fix. sdowney717 suggestion is interesting but I have used jumpers to bypass all the wiring and connect the alternator directly to all the batteries and an ammeter. It only puts out a few amps even then even when the house batteries are down. I received a reply from Adverc. They say that with their management system it compensates for the diode isolator drop if that is the split method in use. I have run the system without it and connected all the batteries together but just the same trickle charge. I have had the alternator tested. all ok. I have used a new alternator of the same capacity. still just a trickle.

Golderskookum said:

Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We are packing up the boat now for the winter. We will leave it on the Rhone at L'Ardoise. More research over the winter and a Spring fix. sdowney717 suggestion is interesting but I have used jumpers to bypass all the wiring and connect the alternator directly to all the batteries and an ammeter. It only puts out a few amps even then even when the house batteries are down. I received a reply from Adverc. They say that with their management system it compensates for the diode isolator drop if that is the split method in use. I have run the system without it and connected all the batteries together but just the same trickle charge. I have had the alternator tested. all ok. I have used a new alternator of the same capacity. still just a trickle.

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Sine the alternator tests ok, your problem must be the wiring. Perhaps even an internally corroded wire, connection, miswired. Just simplify to the absolute basics and try different wires even.
High resistance in the charging circuits will kill any charging ability. Is the alternator regulator wire getting good power, check everything.

I have twin 108amp Delcos on one of my 120s and a single Delco 80amp on my other 120. I bought the bracket from AD for the twin Delco setup. The system has run perfectly for four years.

Sdowney

Your excellent points are why I (clueless) invested in BMKs for both house and engine starts. They (hopefully) tell me what the batteries are seeing. I have found this especially helpful when anchored, any amp draw out of the ordinary can be chased down.

Last week some strong backs dropped in two new engine start 8Ds. The BMK said "Thinkun" and showed no amps, volts or other data. I was afraid I was going to have to get the Magnum book out. Alas, after an hour or two it jumped to life showing data as it should. Recalibration mode I guess.

This post along with the thread on combining alternators shows we have some smart people on TF. Thanks CMS, Ted, Al, Sd etc for keeping us "Thinkun" and charged up.

Daddyo said:

I have twin 108amp Delcos on one of my 120s and a single Delco 80amp on my other 120. I bought the bracket from AD for the twin Delco setup. The system has run perfectly for four years.

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There you go Golderskookum, by installing a larger alternator or two your Lehman will be happy.

Call American Diesel before you do anything else.

Even though I bought a bracket from them for asecond alternator, Brian talked me out of it and it was a wise decision.

Also you should use an external regulator and a battery monitor, so you are not guessing.

Can anyone please define

ACR
BMK
Diode splitter

Any pics or links would help. I'm visual. Thank you.

I just replaced the original alternator on my SP135 with an OEM which I found at Whatcom Electric and Battery in Bellingham WA. It was pricey but plug and play. I had considered American Diesel and Balmar but decised to go the KISS route.

Wxx3 said:

Call American Diesel before you do anything else.

Even though I bought a bracket from them for asecond alternator, Brian talked me out of it and it was a wise decision.

Also you should use an external regulator and a battery monitor, so you are not guessing.

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Why was it wise? Was it anything to do with the water pump bearing?

O C Diver said:

I added a Lecce Neville to my motor as a second alternator with a Sterling 4 stage external regulator to charge the house battery bank. The 2 systems can be linked through a battery switch if either regulator fails. Extremely happy with the system.

External regulator is mounted on the wall in the upper right corner.
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Ted

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I like the look of that belt. No water pump involved. The alternator must come with the add on pulleys. Is this a difficult install?

Greatlaker221 said:

Can anyone please define

ACR
BMK
Diode splitter

Any pics or links would help. I'm visual. Thank you.

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Diode Splitter= A solid state device which allows current to flow to two destinations (batteries) but without the two devices being connected together. Two batteries can charge from one alternator but not discharge into one another.

BMK= Basic mounting kit ?

ACR= Automatic Charge Relay does the same thing as a diode splitter (by a different method) without the voltage drop of diodes which prevents proper charging of batteries. Can also be used to turn on items that should only be on when charging is taking place. Cold plate refrigerator for example.

Magnum energy uses BMK to signify battery management kit ie: ME-BMK

Golderskookum said:

I like the look of that belt. No water pump involved. The alternator must come with the add on pulleys. Is this a difficult install?

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No kit, this is custom "Ted".

Bought the alternator with pulley. Second 8 groove serpentine pulley is from John Deere. Had the adapter plate custom made and matched true to the crank pulley. I made the alternator mounting base out of stainless (Sean did the welding) which is welded to the custom stainless motor mounts we built. The tensioning is done with 1/2" stainless all thread to 2 stainless brackets I fabricated out of stainless angle. I have a stainless steel fetish.

















Ted

Nice!!!!!

Golderskookum said:

Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We are packing up the boat now for the winter. We will leave it on the Rhone at L'Ardoise. More research over the winter and a Spring fix. sdowney717 suggestion is interesting but I have used jumpers to bypass all the wiring and connect the alternator directly to all the batteries and an ammeter. It only puts out a few amps even then even when the house batteries are down. I received a reply from Adverc. They say that with their management system it compensates for the diode isolator drop if that is the split method in use. I have run the system without it and connected all the batteries together but just the same trickle charge. I have had the alternator tested. all ok. I have used a new alternator of the same capacity. still just a trickle.

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Perhaps your charging system is fine and your Ampmeter is lying to you.
I've seen it happen.

Golderskookum said:

Why was it wise? Was it anything to do with the water pump bearing?

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Exactly. With an old engine configuration, why change the stress points now.

and with the addition of the solar panels, I really did not the extra power.


SO his advice saved me some money, time and aggravation.

O C Diver said:

No kit, this is custom "Ted".

Bought the alternator with pulley. Second 8 groove serpentine pulley is from John Deere. Had the adapter plate custom made and matched true to the crank pulley. I made the alternator mounting base out of stainless (Sean did the welding) which is welded to the custom stainless motor mounts we built. The tensioning is done with 1/2" stainless all thread to 2 stainless brackets I fabricated out of stainless angle. I have a stainless steel fetish.

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Ted

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Awesome setup Ted and a nice clean installation. If I ever need to up my alternators I'll do it that way.

Ken

Now I am home in Victoria I will have a chat with Ben Gartside as he is just up the road.

stanfromhell said:

Perhaps your charging system is fine and your Ampmeter is lying to you.
I've seen it happen.

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I have used an external ammeter to check. However since I last used it I have made a few changes. Good point. I'll check again in the spring