Blue Sea product or other (wiring advice needed)

Ok guys, as some of you know I finally got the one genset running and making power. *I just a few days ago drove to NC and bought a spare genset with all the vital parts I need to get the other genset up and running. *My question is this. *I've got two gensets and I will have one 50 amp shore power cord. *I've been looking at using some blue sea transfer switches, I will attach some pictures. *I will need 3 50amp breakers and two swiches. *I would like to set it up were I can run the hvac from one generator and the rest of the ac circuits with the other genset. *Each switch is about 400 bones. *Is there any other options (I've already looked for used) that I haven't thought about? *Thanks Paul

How big are the gensets?

12 kw, 220 @ 50 amps

You didn't mention if your shore power was 125/50 or 250/50. Are the A/C units 125 or 240. If 125 12kw is enough to run everything. The house on 1 line and the A/C on the other. Then you could use just one switch and run one genset at a time.

For almost NO bucks a bullet (and idiot) proof setup can be done with simple plugs and sockets.

The air cond. leg would end in a plug , the house leg would end in a plug.

Noisemaker #1 would take either plug in a socket ,, there would be 2.

Noisemaker #2 would have its 2 sockets , as would shore power .

By simply plugging into which ever socket ( or both) you prefer everything can be powered .

You could also include "Load Shedding" in the setup. eg: air cond on , hot water heater off. Refrigeration on , HW off.

KISS


-- Edited by FF on Friday 9th of December 2011 04:38:47 AM

Vyndance wrote:
You didn't mention if your shore power was 125/50 or 250/50. Are the A/C units 125 or 240. If 125 12kw is enough to run everything. The house on 1 line and the A/C on the other. Then you could use just one switch and run one genset at a time.

Click to expand...

*Everything is 240. *I think one 12kw is enought to run the air conditioner and ac panel. *The heat is the problem, the hvac unit has heat strips which require a lot of power. *I thought about isolating the a/c on one an the house on the other but, if the house genset goes down I would like to be able to switch to the other. *Also in the summer I would only need to run one because air conditioning doesn't use as much power as the heat.

FF wrote:
For almost NO bucks a bullet (and idiot) proof setup can be done with simple plugs and sockets.

The air cond. leg would end in a plug , the house leg would end in a plug.

Noisemaker #1 would take either plug in a socket ,, there would be 2.

Noisemaker #2 would have its 2 sockets , as would shore power .

By simply plugging into which ever socket ( or both) you prefer everything can be powered .

You could also include "Load Shedding" in the setup. eg: air cond on , hot water heater off. Refrigeration on , HW off.

KISS



-- Edited by FF on Friday 9th of December 2011 04:38:47 AM

Click to expand...

I like you thought process. *I believe I will do this for now. *I can alway add a switch later but this is something I can do now until I figure out the other. *Thanks FF*

FF wrote:
For almost NO bucks a bullet (and idiot) proof setup can be done with simple plugs and sockets.

KISS



-- Edited by FF on Friday 9th of December 2011 04:38:47 AM

Click to expand...

*
Exquisitely beautiful simple solution Fred!

I reccomend you get a copy of the ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) Standards book and make sure that all wiring is done to their standards. Use only marine grade products, wire etc. Not sure what caused the boat fire in the first place, but there IS a difference in marine wiring standards, and marine products, especially the way the grounding system is tied together for the 240VAC. Using household romex, household breaker boxes, and wiring it like a house could burn the boat down or kill someone someday...not trying to be a buzzkill but as a ABYC Marine Electrician, I can sight numerous case files and tech notes where improper wiring killed someone either by shock or fire on a boat. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.*

Additionally, proper overcurrent protection (breakers) , grounding, and proper wire sizing is a MUSY MUST MUST in the above referenced situation. Without sitting down and drawing it all out FF's recommendation makes me nervous because it sounds like you could have a "floating" electrical system which is bad bad bad...All AC components must be properly grounded to various sources of power, eachother, the bonding system, and the DC bonding system. There is a difference between the neutral/ground connection on a boat and a house, "new" sources of power, and how to connect this system to an appliance set up for a house....sounds like you have a pretty good handle on things but the ABYC standards are good ones to follow.*

JMYSS, I would listen to whatever you have to say if your familiar with wiring a boat. Is the switch in my first post a good switch to use to run between three sources of power 220? It looks good to me. I have attached a photo of a book I bought a while back to get familiar with boat wiring. Blue Sea looks like they sell some good stuff. My plan thus far is to run both gensets and the shore power to three 50 amp breakers. From the breakers to two three pole switches, one switch is for one ac panel which has the hvac only and the other switch is for the ac panel. I can use one genset to run everything in the summer but when the cold hits and I have to run the heat strips in the hvac it will draw a lot of power. Any advice will be great. Thanks

There is a difference between the neutral/ground connection on a boat and a house, "new" sources of power, and how to connect this system to an appliance set up for a house..

Unquestionably , but the boat with 2 plugs is taken care of by selecting the correct set of sockets.

The "source " will b e grounded outside at the dock (hopefully) and the other sources noisemaker #1, #2 , and perhaps the inverter will be grounded at each of them.

No fear , no fire , no requirement indoors for $200 "marine plugs" and sockets .Marine wire and end connectors is always good.

A good code class T fuse close to the "source " is a good idea , as is circuit breakers for each distribution line .

Overkill but a good idea is a fuse sized to the individual load , very near the load.