Marine Air Conditioning - Plan B

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oldhatt

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Aug 1, 2008
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Boat Air Conditioning is a big topic this time of year. Traditional marine AC systems involve lots money, numerous large and small parts, water pumps, electric wiring and switches and running raw water into your boat through sea cocks, strainers and hoses.



Installation takes real time, effort and expertise. It is not for the faint of heart.



Also, there is always the possibility of a raw water hose splitting or a clamp breaking and your boat sinking.


In over 40 years of live-aboard boating I have always been wary of my marine AC systems and have sought a simpler, safer, cheaper solution.


So I was pleasantly surprised when Janice aboard Seaweed showed in great detail how she solved this problem.


She used a simple $100 Haier air conditioner coupled with a Moby-Cool AC cover. The result is an inexpensive, effective way to keep her boat cool.



She lives on her 23’ Schucker and chronicles her journey on her website.


I had two traditional marine AC systems on my 36’ trawler but have now copied her ideas and installed a 12,000 BTU unit on my boat. It does a great job for me in the sweltering Florida heat.



And if it ever breaks I will just throw it away and spend another $200 for a brand new one.


If you are interested in seeing how Janice keeps cool go to this link:
Moby-Cool a/c cover Installed article on janice142

Fair winds, Blue skies.

M.
On the Florida Gulf Coast, where life is pretty good.
 
I've been battling with the A/C solution for my pilothouse for several years now, trying to avoid putting in another high-buck marine unit. My pilothouse has a lot of glass and heat transmission, so I've been experimenting with window films to cut down on the transmission. I need to get my daytime, in the Florida sunshine, windows-closed pilothouse temperature down about 10 degrees before I can expect even a good sized marine A/C to do the job. I've looked at home units, floor units, roof-top RV units, roof-top marine units, and doubling up on the 16K BTU marine unit I already have. Now, I'm looking at mini-splits, but each of these has its positives and negatives. Weight, cost (particularly cost per BTU), efficiency, and life expectancy are all different.
 
oldhatt said:
Boat Air Conditioning is a big topic this time of year. Traditional marine AC systems involve lots money, numerous large and small parts, water pumps, electric wiring and switches and running raw water into your boat through sea cocks, strainers and hoses.



Installation takes real time, effort and expertise. It is not for the faint of heart.



Also, there is always the possibility of a raw water hose splitting or a clamp breaking and your boat sinking.


In over 40 years of live-aboard boating I have always been wary of my marine AC systems and have sought a simpler, safer, cheaper solution.


So I was pleasantly surprised when Janice aboard Seaweed showed in great detail how she solved this problem.


She used a simple $100 Haier air conditioner coupled with a Moby-Cool AC cover. The result is an inexpensive, effective way to keep her boat cool.



She lives on her 23’ Schucker and chronicles her journey on her website.


I had two traditional marine AC systems on my 36’ trawler but have now copied her ideas and installed a 12,000 BTU unit on my boat. It does a great job for me in the sweltering Florida heat.



And if it ever breaks I will just throw it away and spend another $200 for a brand new one.


If you are interested in seeing how Janice keeps cool go to this link:
Moby-Cool a/c cover Installed article on janice142

Fair winds, Blue skies.

M.
On the Florida Gulf Coast, where life is pretty good.
Click to expand...


To each his or her own.

But the negatives you list against marine a/c units are highly exaggerated.

And home units mounted on most boats are anything but elegant.
 
healhustler said:
I've been battling with the A/C solution for my pilothouse for several years now, trying to avoid putting in another high-buck marine unit. My pilothouse has a lot of glass and heat transmission, so I've been experimenting with window films to cut down on the transmission. I need to get my daytime, in the Florida sunshine, windows-closed pilothouse temperature down about 10 degrees before I can expect even a good sized marine A/C to do the job. I've looked at home units, floor units, roof-top RV units, roof-top marine units, and doubling up on the 16K BTU marine unit I already have. Now, I'm looking at mini-splits, but each of these has its positives and negatives. Weight, cost (particularly cost per BTU), efficiency, and life expectancy are all different.
Click to expand...

Larry,
I have a 12K Webasto in my pilothouse that is probably twice what I need but works very nicely! Shouldn't be a difficult install on Bucky. Probably have to up size the water pump to overcome the additional head pushing the water up to the pilothouse. My March pump has enough flow for 2 AC units with a 15' head pressure. The floor of your pilothouse has to be below that.

Ted
 
Also, there is always the possibility of a raw water hose splitting or a clamp breaking and your boat sinking.
Click to expand...

Why would that be the case? Why would a boat owner create that possibility?
 
I guess if you don't intend to spend much time on your flybridge it would work.

And you keep a bottle of Wink rust stain remover handy.
 
I just installed 2 12000 btu units in my 36' TRI cabin. New tinted windows help and the system works great. Sure it takes some time to install but not too technical. The tubes were the hardest as the boat never had traditional AC before. In fact the PO put a window unit in a rear salon window. It leaked and ruined the interior woodwork. Fixing that took more time than the whole AC job. I'm kinda down on window units, function and form.
 
Janet is amazing

Oldhatt , I agree with you; Janet has has come up with a charming solution for a limited budget. Janet is a true gem amongst us. Thank you very much for sharing this.
 
O C Diver said:
Larry,
I have a 12K Webasto in my pilothouse that is probably twice what I need but works very nicely! Shouldn't be a difficult install on Bucky. Probably have to up size the water pump to overcome the additional head pushing the water up to the pilothouse. My March pump has enough flow for 2 AC units with a 15' head pressure. The floor of your pilothouse has to be below that.

Ted
Click to expand...

Ted: No problem with my March pump and two units and head pressure.... I probably have the same pump you do. More than enough space for a half-dozen units up there behind helm, under settee, etc., no kidding. Why do I keep looking for a better alternative? Could be the $$$? I'd probably be foolish to go with anything less than 12K BTU with all the glass area I have. The thing is with this window film, 3M or otherwise, I just can't live with having spent 5 boat bucks for new windows and live with any significant distortion.
 
healhustler said:
The thing is with this window film, 3M or otherwise, I just can't live with having spent 5 boat bucks for new windows and live with any significant distortion.
Click to expand...

I use V-Kool on fwd helm windows all the time. No noticable distortion in them or any of the other windows it's installed on.
 
Capt.Bill11 said:
I use V-Kool on fwd helm windows all the time. No noticable distortion in them or any of the other windows it's installed on.
Click to expand...

I sure hope you're right, Bill. I asked for a sample of the stuff first, but the claims of 96% UV rejection sound just like the high-buck 3M film.
 
healhustler said:
I sure hope you're right, Bill. I asked for a sample of the stuff first, but the claims of 96% UV rejection sound just like the high-buck 3M film.
Click to expand...

I just spent 6 weeks looking out the fwd flybridge helm window and I can't say I noticed any distortion.

But if you want I can walk out to the boat in the morning and look again. :D

I can also take a picture too if you'd like. Not sure how well that will work but I'd be happy to do it.
 
Capt.Bill11 said:
I just spent 6 weeks looking out the fwd flybridge helm window and I can't say I noticed any distortion.
Click to expand...

That's saying something, considering you've put in on the windshield. My windshield has a pretty steep forward rake, so it's always in the shade, save for maybe near sunset or sunrise while heading into the sun. I'll be using the film on the side and rear windows. I've got a couple of sliding patio doors that I've mounted several examples of other window film, so I'm hoping that they send me a sample to compare. If not, I might bite anyway if the cost is any less than the 3M film.
 
healhustler said:
Ted: No problem with my March pump and two units and head pressure.... I probably have the same pump you do. More than enough space for a half-dozen units up there behind helm, under settee, etc., no kidding. Why do I keep looking for a better alternative? Could be the $$$? I'd probably be foolish to go with anything less than 12K BTU with all the glass area I have. The thing is with this window film, 3M or otherwise, I just can't live with having spent 5 boat bucks for new windows and live with any significant distortion.
Click to expand...

Make up your mind what you want for the AC unit. Fall boat show is the beginning of October. All the online boat supply places have their end of season sales then. Paid 2/3 of the normal price 2 years ago between manufacturers incentives and the sale price.

Ted
 
what is the advantage of Marine AC? Is it less power consuming, quiet, colder, smaller? just wondering.
 
healhustler said:
That's saying something, considering you've put in on the windshield. My windshield has a pretty steep forward rake, so it's always in the shade, save for maybe near sunset or sunrise while heading into the sun. I'll be using the film on the side and rear windows. I've got a couple of sliding patio doors that I've mounted several examples of other window film, so I'm hoping that they send me a sample to compare. If not, I might bite anyway if the cost is any less than the 3M film.
Click to expand...

On the bost I'm running we only have a flybridge helm. And it only had a EZ-2-CY enclosure around it. So we had a custom glass wind shield panel made for the fwd window and I mounted a wiper on it.

I had V-Kool put on the windshield to cut down the heat load on myself and the dash. Works very well.

Also put it on the 3 large fwd windows in front of the galley settee where the lower helm would have been if this boat came with one. No one mentions seeing any distortion looking out those windows either.

But get a piece and see what you think.

Be aware, V-Kool is not cheap.
 
Warwgn said:
what is the advantage of Marine AC? Is it less power consuming, quiet, colder, smaller? just wondering.
Click to expand...

Yes. In most places, using the water as the heat dump (or source) is more efficient than using air. You need to move less water than air through the heat exchanger, so it can be a smaller package. They can be mounted out of the way, which can be quieter and generally easier to fit. The air can be routed through ducts to where you want it, instead of coming out the front of the window AC.
 
Is the V-Kool a DIY installation?
 
Last edited:
FOG said:
Is it a DIY installation?
Click to expand...

It can be, depending on size and location of unit. New install will require a haul unless you have a free through hull available. Power has to be supplied as well. In the end if you're not able to handle decent size projects then hire it out. If you are then go for it.
 
mbevins said:
It can be, depending on size and location of unit. New install will require a haul unless you have a free through hull available. Power has to be supplied as well. In the end if you're not able to handle decent size projects then hire it out. If you are then go for it.
Click to expand...

Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant the V-Kool product. I just edited my earlier post.
 
FOG said:
Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant the V-Kool product. I just edited my earlier post.
Click to expand...

Maybe Capt. Bill can speak to that better, but I have installed both cling and adhesive type on various windows. The secret is patience and plenty of fine spray of the either a recommended, factory supplied fluid, or a mixture of Johnson's Baby Shampoo and water. The patience comes from using the squeegee to remove all the air bubbles. Better too much fluid spray than too little. There's probably a U-tube video about it.
 
Best I could tell v-kool is a window film.

Check into ceramic tints, they truly rock. I did a job in pheonix that lasted 2 years and the ceramic tint was what made our RV bearable. It was 95% clear (or 5% tint). I went with the tint after putting 3 new 15000 btu roof tops on, and they still couldnt keep up with the summer sun.

We could hold 75 on a 115 degree day in the open after the tint.
 
We had the 3-M film put on 9 glass door panels, and on 12 3'x3' windows above the doors, at our lake house, which faces due east - before the film the sun blasted us in the mornings, fading wood floors and furniture - the 3-M film is pricy, but incredible how it works - and you really can't tell its there. And has a lifetime guarantee from 3-M.
 
healhustler said:
Maybe Capt. Bill can speak to that better, but I have installed both cling and adhesive type on various windows. The secret is patience and plenty of fine spray of the either a recommended, factory supplied fluid, or a mixture of Johnson's Baby Shampoo and water. The patience comes from using the squeegee to remove all the air bubbles. Better too much fluid spray than too little. There's probably a U-tube video about it.
Click to expand...

You could do it yourself but I'm not sure you can buy it. I think it's one of those "must be installed by a dealer" deals.

But I'm not 100% sure of that.
 
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