Windlass Switch

Installing new windless, where should I put the switch, pilot house or fly bridge

Both


David

Fit one at the bow too.

That would suck for sailors, that 'windless' thing.

I would want windless when I need to go up wind. Down wind or on a reach I would want it. I am thinking the switch should go in the cockpit.

kartracer said:

Installing new windless, where should I put the switch, pilot house or fly bridge

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I understand the question to be " . . . where do I mount the up/down switch?". IMHO there must be a switch up front by the windlass. That way you can control the windlass and see the chain when it is straight up and down. Extra switches at lower helm or flybridge are nice options.

Agreed with Shoalwaters. However I believe a second switch at a helm is critical. I installed one on my boat originally while riding out hurricane Irene solo. You need to be able to handle the helm and windlass simultaneously when short handed.

My foot switch is right by the winch and the only question I had is where would my right foot be while I'm pulling rode.

Go wireless. Then put the back-up 'manual' switch wherever it is easiest to wire it in.

In addition to the foot switch, why not a wireless remote that can be taken anywhere on the boat to operate the windlass?

I have rocker switch at each helm and foot actuated up and down pads at the bow

If the chain/rode hangs up going down the chain pipe and you aren't there to supervise it you will have a terrible mess by the time you realize it's happened. I had to partially disassemble my windlass when the rode tucked itself under the stripper when it hung up going down the chain pipe. Now I know what to do IF that happens, and I was standing on the bow looking at it when it did. I can't imagine how much worse it would have been if I was on the bridge looking down on it.

I am a believer in the switch on the bow.

FOG said:

In addition to the foot switch, why not a wireless remote that can be taken anywhere on the boat to operate the windlass?

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+1

Steve said:

I have rocker switch at each helm and foot actuated up and down pads at the bow

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Same with me, but I have yet have an occasion to use any switch but the foot switches at the bow.

Both helms an the bow, absolutely. If single handing only, then one at the bow and lower helm will pretty much do it. We used all three heavily.

IMHO if possible there should be a person at the bow during drop and retrieve. They may as well have one foot on a switch. Just be sure the switch is as moisture protected as possible, they can be a bitch to replace.

Do you all have a master off/on switch so that no one accidently steps on the bow foot switch.

kartracer said:

Do you all have a master off/on switch so that no one accidently steps on the bow foot switch.

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It's best to. As well as foot switches with covers.

kartracer said:

Do you all have a master off/on switch so that no one accidently steps on the bow foot switch.

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Separate breaker on the 12v panel that turns off power to all the windlass switches an the foot switches have covers.

Some recent negative experience on the foredeck: the "up" switch stem stuck in the "on" position, couldn't get the chain wheel stopped. Chain jumped the wheel, nobody hurt or equipment damaged.

Found that the switch stem had bent over from being stepped on too heavily and was binding against the hole through the deck. Fixed all that and checked the down switch too.

I have a master off/on at the lower helm, but it would need to be manned for emergency shutoff, as most anchor sets/retrieves we do with the upper helm manned.

So: no walking/standing on the foot switches with body weight. I plan to upgrade the covers to ones that will prevent this from happening and modify the through holes to ensure clearance, add/connect a shutoff to the upper helm too.

Windlass loads and procedures are not to be trifled with, very powerful and potentially dangerous piece of equipment. Manned shut off switch at the helm stations are important part of safe anchoring!

GF: I had those foot switches with a rod that goes down through a hole in the deck when I bought this boat. They failed the first time out, and the replacements I got are little micro switches under a rubber dome, red for up, black for down. nothing to bend, no danger of crushing them if you are too heavy/assertive. So no issues.

My main shutoff is like a main power switch, as the cables it shuts off are fatter than my finger. It is located near the battery that is connected to them. In 22 years, I have turned it off once, I don't recall exactly why. It is easily accessed, by lifting the forward floor hatch, as it is on the wall just below the opening.

Both, but I have no flybridge. I have and suggest controls also located adjacent to the windlass. Convenient to control there when hauling up the anchor so to pick off weeds and wash off mud/salt. Here, launching the anchor ... one potato, two potato, ...

Ever since I installed my windlass, I've never gone forward to launch or retrieve my anchor.
I slip the engine in and out of gear with my right hand and control the windlass with my left.

FOG said:

In addition to the foot switch, why not a wireless remote that can be taken anywhere on the boat to operate the windlass?

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I don't have a wireless remote, but I do have a corded one. It's a piece of cake to deploy or retrieve the anchor, running the boat from the bow with the remote, and operating the windlass with the foot switches.

I have windlass switches at the bow and the helm, but I've never used the helm switches.

I would not want to be doing anything with the windlass, chain, or anchor with someone else at the windlass control, especially at another station.

Steve said:

I would not want to be doing anything with the windlass, chain, or anchor with someone else at the windlass control, especially at another station.

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How come? Ann and I have done this hundreds of times, using simple hand signals and direct communication.

Main up down switch is at the helm in the pilot house. Used to drop anchor. When lifting anchor I am at the bow with a wired remote and the Admiral is at the helm.

Clearly there are several permutations and combinations that work well.

One thing that has me up on the bow is to keep an eye on the angle the chain makes coming up, so that I can give hand signals to the Admiral at the helm, upper or lower.

She doesn't need to control the windlass, and with this combination, I don't need to control the engines. If I am alone (this hasn't actually occurred yet when retrieving the anchor) I wouldn't be able to remain at the bow, so would go to the lower helm (the one without a windlass control) to operate the engines.

I also need to be at the bow to control the buildup of chain in the locker. Knocking down the pile before it gets to the point of falling over on itself is important in my boat, and has to be done at east every 50 ft. I do this by using the manual cranking bar for the windlass, which I reach down into the chain locker through the 4" deck access pipe, and use it to direct the chain to fill the low spots, as it comes in, or to knock over any buildup.

Once (luckily not repeated) I raised a car-hauler trailer on my CQR. I absolutely needed to be at the bow as this behemoth rose to the surface. ( I released it outside the anchorage, in deeper water).

If ever there is anything fouled on the anchor, I would want to be at the bow.

My wired switch and CB are at the primary helm, which in my case is the lower helm. I also have a wireless remote with a mount at the FB helm. The remote lives most of its life between the lower helm (for storage) and the bow for those times a washdown or a watchful eye is needed.

With the wireless remote, I can control the windlass from anywhere on or near the boat, even from the dock when working on the ground tackle.

Originally had a switch at the main helm and a thru hull foot switch at the windlass. After replacing the foot switch three time, I eliminated it and use the helm switch only.

Except for the last foot of chain and anchor clearing the bow pulpit, I can handle it all from the helm. I painted the links white where I need to stop winching and lift the anchor through the pulpit rollers.

But if you're not all chain, then that would be a challenge for a single person.