New Trawler Owner

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hatch1906

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2016
Messages
6
Location
United States
Vessel Name
$20 and A Handshake
Vessel Make
Marine Trader '36
Just signed up for this forum for help and advice since I just bought a used 1974 36' Marine Trader. It runs and floats, but has an empty shell/frame inside. I am looking to do the following as part of a partial refit.
a. Re-Fiberglass Boat
b. Gel Coat
c. Paint Exterior
d. Install new interior furniture/bulkhead wood
e. Install new electronics (Radar, Chart/Range Finder, etc.)

Is there a checklist for new Trawler owners for refit?

Thanks,

Hatch1906
 
hatch1906 said:
Just signed up for this forum for help and advice since I just bought a used 1974 36' Marine Trader. It runs and floats, but has an empty shell/frame inside. I am looking to do the following as part of a partial refit.
a. Re-Fiberglass Boat:eek:
b. Gel Coat:eek:
c. Paint Exterior:eek:
d. Install new interior furniture/bulkhead wood:eek:
e. Install new electronics (Radar, Chart/Range Finder, etc.):eek:

Is there a checklist for new Trawler owners for refit?

Thanks,

Hatch1906
Click to expand...

:eek::eek:
 
Welcome to the forum! You have quite the project ahead of you. Don't know if there is a check list, but there are a number of threads on building boats and refitting them. Best of luck with your project!

Ted
 
Whew, Man I hope you got the boat for free! You can click on my link in my sig and look at my project and I don't know if I would do this again. Start with the glass, find a good glass guy and get ready to spend some money. Gel coat takes a lot longer then paint so I went with the paint on the top sides, we've been glassing and fairing for 6 months. I can't help you on the last two items because I've been doing the first 3 items for 9 years!
Good luck
 
1) Why did you go this route?

2) Why didn't you come here for advice before choosing this path?
 
GregBrannon said:
1) Why did you go this route?
Click to expand...


Many folks go this route, few see it through to the end and even fewer still are willing to document the process completely warts and all online. TF has been blessed with folks like swampu, she-kon, hendo, anode, oc diver to name just a few.

By all means please allow this thread to be your online outlet to photo document the transformation of this project and allow us to enjoy it vicariously. We will provide advice and celebrate and commiserate along with you as the victories and inevitable mistakes come.

I'm reminded that pleasure boats never make any financial sense whatsoever. Everyone has a different hobby and thank goodness they do IMO.

Welcome to the forum hatch
 
I didn't have much money so I bought this '74 36' Marine Trader for $2,500. Would like to have found a 36- 40' for 10K-15K but could not find anything close.
 
Welcome aboard! My first thought was "partial refit ??", but you own it, you have a plan, you are looking for advice, which all makes sense. You will get plenty of help, viewing other refit threads, or from direct questions. Ask away, and I hope it goes well.
 
Cool, why do you want to redo or add more fiberglass?
 
You've chosen quite a challenge there. Welcome aboard and don't forget to post your progress as things move along. Even though it's a project boat, try to get her on the water for some enjoyment while you refit, even if it is only to have an evening drink on deck. Take lots of pictures.
 
Coming from the vintage sports car world: the "cheap" car is usually the most expensive... Far less expensive, and far less hassle to buy a nice car from someone who bought it unrestored, and put a TON of money & labor into it... :rolleyes:

We're currently looking for a very "nice" yacht... :thumb:

Ed
 
Don't use polyester resin. It doesn't stick well to anything including itself. Use epoxy resin. If you check on line you can save $20 gallon compared to the local boat store. If money is tight, look for most of your supplies online. Some have free shipping on larger orders.
Fix things that effect floating 1st. Then things that need protection from rain next. Fresh water causes rot. Salt water preserves wood. Make sure the zincs are kept up so when you go cruising you still have a prop.
In a younger life I built and repaired many types of boats. I maintain this one now.
 
GT6 said:
Coming from the vintage sports car world: the "cheap" car is usually the most expensive... Far less expensive, and far less hassle to buy a nice car from someone who bought it unrestored, and put a TON of money & labor into it... :rolleyes:

We're currently looking for a very "nice" yacht... :thumb:

Ed
Click to expand...

Good thing this isn't your build. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Personally I don't mind a little project boat because I can bring it to my standards and liking. I know people who have bought very nice boats and gutted them more or less, and put them back together the way they wanted to. What's the difference?
 
hatch1906 said:
Just signed up for this forum for help and advice since I just bought a used 1974 36' Marine Trader. It runs and floats, but has an empty shell/frame inside. I am looking to do the following as part of a partial refit.
a. Re-Fiberglass Boat
b. Gel Coat
c. Paint Exterior
d. Install new interior furniture/bulkhead wood
e. Install new electronics (Radar, Chart/Range Finder, etc.)

Is there a checklist for new Trawler owners for refit?

Thanks,

Hatch1906
Click to expand...

Ok, welcome aboard the board.

It runs and floats, presumably means no leaks, and the engine and driveline work. Then it is indeed a boat. All the rest is just 'windowdressing', right..?

Firstly, why the re-fibreglass & gelcoat job..? I take it is a fibreglass hull. That basic hull then is probably ok. I doubt it has worn away, other than just powdering and degradation to the outer surface. Why can you not just sand her down well, and then re-spray her with several coats of a good 2 pack marine paint. It is what I had done to my hull which was looking decidedly dull and tired, (it is 1975 vintage CHB), and the finish is fantastic.

It is recognised that the new 2 pack paints are actually better protection than gelcoat, and much easier to apply. That's two jobs done in one hit. Make that three if you do the superstructure that way as well, or just use ordinary good marine paint for that, like Interlux TopLac as I did. Not as good as the 2 pack, but cheaper, and easier to do yourself, and still does pretty well. Frankly I would advise getting a professional to spray the 2 pack. I did and no regrets there, but you could save quite a bit by doing the prep yourself.

Then all you have to do is fit her out inside. Are you good at woodwork and cabinetry..? You're already halfway there... :D :popcorn:

Oh yeah...don't forget the progress photos...
 
The gel coat is.peeling down to the fiberglass. Do I need to paint or put a new gel coat on then repaint?
 
hatch1906 said:
The gel coat is.peeling down to the fiberglass. Do I need to paint or put a new gel coat on then repaint?
Click to expand...

My understanding is that there is no point in trying to replace gelcoat. That stuff does not go on at all well applied on the outside, it is usually put on the inside of a specially prepared female mold, and the GRP applied to it. In any case, several coats of a two pack paint over a smooth sanded GRP surface will end up easier to do and better. But check that out with a marine maintenance team. I think that's what they will also say.
 
Do you see cracks or blisters? Can you post a picture? Pictures will help alot at this point.
 
hatch1906 said:
The gel coat is.peeling down to the fiberglass. Do I need to paint or put a new gel coat on then repaint?
Click to expand...

First remove the peeling gel coat. Nothing will be long term if the underlying surface is peeling. I would go back with gel coat first. Painting over the gel coat is optional as many boats only have a gel coat exterior.

If you're not familiar with gel coating, read and completely understand preparation requirements before starting to prep the area.

Ted
 
Peter B said:
My understanding is that there is no point in trying to replace gelcoat. That stuff does not go on at all well applied on the outside, it is usually put on the inside of a specially prepared female mold, and the GRP applied to it. In any case, several coats of a two pack paint over a smooth sanded GRP surface will end up easier to do and better. But check that out with a marine maintenance team. I think that's what they will also say.
Click to expand...

Clearly you don't understand gelcoat application. If you know what you're doing, gelcoat is about as easy to apply as latex paint. Much of the fiberglass work on my boat was over coated with gelcoat before painting. Gelcoat is an easily sandable surface that makes fairing fiberglass much easier and is significantly more durable than a bondo type fairing compounds.

Ted
 
O C Diver said:
First remove the peeling gel coat. Nothing will be long term if the underlying surface is peeling. I would go back with gel coat first. Painting over the gel coat is optional as many boats only have a gel coat exterior.

If you're not familiar with gel coating, read and completely understand preparation requirements before starting to prep the area.

Ted
Click to expand...

OC, I agree there would be no point in both gel-coating, and painting over that, assuming you could get as good an end result with sprayed on gelcoat. But I'm interested as to why you would do that, in preference to just good prep, removing all old powdered gelcoat, then 2 packing painting..? I suspect getting a nice even shiny finish with aftermarket gel-coat would be more difficult, but you may know something I don't..?
 
Redoing an exterior with gel has gained favor in some circles. I saw a boat being done in a crowded yard. The theory is because it can be applied a lot thicher, it tolerates imperfect prep and application (meaning not sprayed)...but needs a lot of final sanding and polishing (easier where spraying can't be done but vacuum sanders are allowed).

Gel coat repairs are done all the time and if done correctly last like the original.

Also, polyester resin is often used to repair large areas. One explanation I got was try to match the same characteristics as the original hull so with the hull working , there are no "hard" or "transition" spots. True the actual bond is stronger with epoxy, but where a proper scared can be done with poly (sometimes vinyester) it is considered to be as strong as the original hull.

Of course there are many who disagree with polyester repairs, but having seen and read about them at major yards on large yachts...my guess it is an accepted practice. If in doubt, research it bit before just accepting the small, DIY epoxy repair mentality.
 
Peter B said:
OC, I agree there would be no point in both gel-coating, and painting over that, assuming you could get as good an end result with sprayed on gelcoat. But I'm interested as to why you would do that, in preference to just good prep, removing all old powdered gelcoat, then 2 packing painting..? I suspect getting a nice even shiny finish with aftermarket gel-coat would be more difficult, but you may know something I don't..?
Click to expand...

It depends on how fair a surface you are after. If you apply several layers with a paint roller, it does a great job filling voids and is easier and faster to sand fair than fiberglass. I have no experience spraying gelcoat, but am told you can get a nice finish spraying it. Any sprayed finish will be thin. So having a faired and sanded base underneath the sprayed coating would likely be ideal.

Ted
 
Nothing wrong with polyester resin for boat repair. Use commercial grade product. Almost all failures with it are from poor surface preparation, incorrect mixing ratio, or other application mistakes. In general, sanding the surface and wiping it down with acetone will yield excellent results.

Ted
 
Topside Help

This is what I am working with. What is my best option?

Thanks,
R
Hatch06
 
Last edited by a moderator:
hatch1906 said:
This is what I am working with. What is my best option?

Thanks,
R
Hatch06
Click to expand...

Posting pics will hopefully eliminate confusion.

We all want our boat to look good. There is an expression, "my boat looks good at 50' (away). The closer you want your boat to look good, the fairer the surface under the paint or gelcoat needs to be. At 10', surface preparation can be 95%+ of the finished product. Good to understand how close you want your boat to look good before you start.

Ted
 
 
hatch1906 said:
Here are the photos now:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15_IUKVDaLp_prYcHsXtJoYLGxa5U2KCcUA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-jJ0exaAj0UMNoqLLKo5ZDgr9SXIFsZ5ww/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UXiuCrhjaA1FBz8uNBk-Zy41t77ExRiRNA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cENbznHXyz1WWtNW5YPKy8FXl-DcrDukAg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19zZl14UGXZgbO-up_hrdG5Z09nfI4cdRDQ/view?usp=sharing
Click to expand...

Ok, you have some work ahead of you. You will need to focus on areas or you may get overwhelmed. Let's start on the back cabin. All of it will need some sanding. I'm talking about about a variable speed sander that takes 7 or 8" discs. If there is any exposed wood, it will need to be covered with fiberglass. Sanding will allow you to fair the fiberglass repair on the port side. Modest sanding the gelcoat will remove the oxidized surface without taking off all the gelcoat. Any poorly attached or flaking gelcoat needs to be removed down to the fiberglass. Once you have done all of the above, you need to decide if you want to fair the cabin or just protect it and paint it later. There are 2 types of gelcoat, with wax and without. With wax will cure to a smooth surface. Without remains tacky and is for multiple coats, with the last coat having wax to make the surface tack free. If you want to fair it use several coats without wax (until the minor voids are filled ) and one final with wax. You can do the fairing fine sanding days or months later. If you're not looking for as fine a finish, one thick coat with wax will seal and protect the surface. Later you will likely lightly sand and top coat or paint over it.

Gelcoat is in the same family with fiberglass. It's base that you add a catalyst to. Cure time will directly be related to temperature and the sun greatly accelerates the cure. If you're going to do this outside, tenting the area with a poly tarp for the day will give you a longer working time before it kicks off. If you are planning multiple coats without wax, the area can be recoated as soon as the coating switches from wet to tacky. 4 or 5 coats with wax in the final top coat is possible in one day. If you plan to use gelcoat without wax, it comes in 5 gallon cans. Gelcoat with wax is usually sold in gallon containers. Covering an area like the back cabin can be done with disposable paint roller covers, pan with plastic liners, and a cut brush.

Before applying gelcoat over fiberglass, the entire surface needs to be clean. Lightly sanding the surface and then wiping it down with a rag and acetone should remove all wax, oil, detergent residue, etc. When the cloth rag gets dirty switch to a clean one or you won't remove the contaminants. Don't be stingy with the acetone either. If you don't get it clean, it will start to chip off years later.

Ted
 
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