A new flybridge ladder for our Fu Hwa.

I'm in the process of making a new flybridge ladder for Revel. The old one is uncomfortably steep and the steps too far apart. I drew the existing ladder in AutoCAD, designed the new ladder, and used the full-size plots to make templates for model hinges, and made the full-scale model. I built a full-scale model in pressure-treated decking. I verified the model and made the new hinges out of stainless steel plate that I have in a small collection; material would be readily available at McMaster Carr. When we finally got the boat, I first demonstrated the models' function to Sue and then installed the permanent hinges. After our vacation/shake-down-cruise I will make the new ladder in Teak.

Pics can be seen in my album: http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/members/12213-albums500.html

Nice. I'm going to file that away for future use.

Really, really nice work.
I have a few things I could use your help with

There is nothing more pleasing to the eye and stimulating to the mind than seeing the process and end result of a true craftsman at work. I keep going back to it; looking at details, the tools and work space.

To echo boatpoker; very, very nicely done.

When it is stowed up against the house, how is it secured so it doesn't swing and drop back down?

Hawg, the ladder has to be lifted a smidge to move. It is now, and the Teak finished one will be, quite heavy, so I doubt it will be inclined to move on its own. A bit of line or bungee cord would be an easy step, if necessary. I had thought that side-to side movement of the bottom when the ladder is in position for use would be a problem, but apparently not. I had been thinking about a hinged bracket, like for folding sawhorses, would be necessary.

If I made it that far, I'd probably use the pressure-treated version for at least three years. Then I'd sell the boat before I completed the teak version!

Beautiful work. Thanks for posting.

Very nice work.

I have completed the new, 'permanent' flybridge ladder.

I used Ipe, a tropical hardwood, and is sold for decking. The wood is remarkably heavy, dense, stiff, and tough on tools. Additionally, they say it's hard to glue because of the oil content. I ripped a few pieces and epoxied 'em to form wider treads, mostly to make a neater intersection with the side rails. I cut the treads to length and tested the joints in the scraps. None broke at the glue-line.

I used carbide-tipped sawblades and dulled them. I cut the handholds using a hole-cutting saw and destroyed the blade. I cut between the holes with a 1/4" dia solid carbide 'end mill' mounted in the router; it's probably dulled but was still willing to do work w/o burning wood. I predrilled screw holes with the steel bits that cut bung holes; dulled it. I cut bungs with the matching bung-cutter; very dulled!

The Ipe is quite hard and stiff; it would rather split at the screw if the pilot hole is not somewhat oversize, and screws are readily broken even when using soap lubricant.

My model failed at the hanger hole; I added a stainless steel plate in a groove, and used 3/8" stainless steel pins to spread the load away from the hole.

Done!

Nicely done DH !