question: backing down on an anchor

I was enjoying a book recently on trawler cruising, when I was surprised to read that the author gradually went all the way up to 2000 rpm when backing down on an anchor. I don't think I've ever gone over 1200 rpm. How hard do you back down on your anchor?

Unless your vessel is going to stay with the same heading as when you backed down I see no reason to do it beyond a fast idle. I have frequently seen 360 degree swings in two tide changes with variable winds.

The reasoning of high power back down would be if you expected a blow and were unsure of the bottom.

We all have had false sets where the anchor caught yet really wasn't set...only one way to find out..or wait and see.

I think it also depends on the boat/hp/prop's. Sail boater will back down hard, yet the props are small and the HP low, do that in a sport-fisherman and you will always pull out the anchor, so as others have said it depends on the type of boat etc you have.

I use a high idle, maybe 1200 rpm.
With my "ex" boat, I used to do the same, but after I repowered (with more HP) I kept pulling the anchor out. I had to change to idle speed only.

With 660 Hp I back gently until chain goes straight. If I expect harsh weather I will re test later at moderate RPM. I use Spade type deep digging anchors and have had no issues with the gentile approach. In the past with other anchors I had more issues with increased wind especially big wind shifts. I believe a higher power back down can shock load your bow gear anchor and chain and it is not necessary.

I back down with one engine engaged at idle, then bump it to 1000-1200 RPM in a short burst after we've stopped to check it. Doing this with 2 engines is too much on my boat. I'll alternate engines as needed when I back down to keep my track straight.

Does anyone really think people go out there and use 500hp or more and a clean and jerk to set their anchors?

seattleboatguy said:

author gradually went all the way up to 2000 rpm when backing down on an anchor.

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That's what I do if the wind is expected to come up during the night in the current direction.

psneeld said:

Does anyone really think people go out there and use 500hp or more and a clean and jerk to set their anchors?

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Based upon the responses so far, no. But as the OP asked, is 2000 RPM necessary? in some vessels that may be 500 HP or more HP in a clean and jerk.

sunchaser said:

Based upon the responses so far, no. But as the OP asked, is 2000 RPM necessary? in some vessels that may be 500 HP or more HP in a clean and jerk.

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True...I would have just guessed that most would recognize the differences at 2000 rpm across the breadth of vessels....

You don't need to back down if you have a Rocna.

Ted

I work the ground tackle and my wife operates the boat so I don't know how hard she backs down on the anchor. I'm sure it's not 2K RPM though. That would put us at seven knots.


2,000 RPM is different on different boats so it really has no meaning.

O C Diver said:

You don't need to back down if you have a Rocna.

Ted

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Just toss it overboard?

WesK said:

Just toss it overboard?

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That's what I did 2 hours ago.

Ted

psneeld said:

Does anyone really think people go out there and use 500hp or more and a clean and jerk to set their anchors?

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I have seen boats drag on multiple attempts to set when applying too much HP. I have wondered if they where charter boats. If you spend enough time and years hanging around anchorages you get to see some strange stuff. Not everybody out there knows what they are doing. I have always thought that sailors were better educated regarding how to use their boats and anchors. It is easy to buy a power boat turn the key and off you go not so with a sail boat. The lazy types shun sailing too much work and too much to learn. So the answer is yes maybe not a full 500 HP but much more than called for and I have seen boats pulled up abruptly on the anchor set and yes it is way wrong.

Just measuring the audience...


And remember there others on here with some pretty extensive experience too....

I use 1400rpm.

And I think setting is mostly an act of testing the bottom ....
The biggest variable in anchoring.

I don't check the rpm. I check the anchor rode. When it is set, it is set, so I go to all stop.

I back down at 12 to 1400 rpm. Any more than that I fear I would rip the cleats off the deck

To state the obvious, the rpm used to back down depends on the engine. My Lehman cruises at 1600-1800 rpm. When I back down using the Lehman I go to 1000 rpm. My Yanmar auxiliary engine cruises at 2000-2400. If I used the Yanmar I would jump up the rpm when backing down to perhaps 1600 or so.

We have a Rocna and we still always back down. My preference.

O C Diver said:

You don't need to back down if you have a Rocna.

Ted

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Or a Sarca...

O C Diver said:

You don't need to back down if you have a Rocna.

Ted

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To be fair, I set the hook depending on the situation. Where I am this morning (feeder canal off the Okeechobee waterway) spooling out 50' of 3/8" chain without the anchor would have held the boat.

Ted

With line we use idle reverse to get the boat moving and simply allow it to check against the anchor .A tiny stern anchor is insurance.

Sure we always have a trip line , but the effort and time of yanking a deeply buried anchor is a waste.

Full throttle reverse with a 6-71 and 32 x32 prop , no way!!!

psneeld said:

Does anyone really think people go out there and use 500hp or more and a clean and jerk to set their anchors?

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You don't want to know how many times I have seen people use that technique.

jleonard said:

You don't want to know how many times I have seen people use that technique.

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The worst I ever saw was a fellow on a MacGregor 24 or 26... he stood on the bow of his boat and THREW a fake danforth off the bow. It landed about 20' from the boat. Then, using 3/8" line he tied the anchor of to the bow.

It was ugly.

When we spoke later in the day I asked about that. He said he'd "used this method all the way down the Mississippi and it worked fine"

Then the tide changed and guess who dragged?

On another front:
I had trouble with a too heavy chain, laying a 25 pound plow on it's side. I was using 3/8" (25') and the doggone plow did not set. I suspect it was because the weight of the chain was such that it prevented the anchor from digging in.

Removal of the 3/8" and back to all 1/4" chain and no issues whatsoever. Until I dragged.

That's when I moved from 25 pound plow to 33 pound Rocna. After the half century mark I need my beauty sleep! With the Rocna I don't worry about me dragging

Bay Pelican said:

To state the obvious, the rpm used to back down depends on the engine. My Lehman cruises at 1600-1800 rpm. When I back down using the Lehman I go to 1000 rpm.

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Doing the same. 2x FL120, all chain rode. Start backing at idle, when chain becomes stiff we increase gently to 1000 rpm as a max.


best regards / med venlig hilsen
wadden

wadden that's what I usually do.

Another thing in addition to the size of the engine is if one is overpropped. Rpm w no way on is way different than when the boat is propped to rated rpm but when overpropped also it takes even less rpm yet to load a prop. Time w tension on may be more beneficial than brief tension. Brief tension may be more likely to promote an anchor to break out than a steady "soaking" tension.

If one experienced a reversal in light breezes the anchor would be set backwards holding the boat. If more wind came up the anchor may flip over on it's back and need to reset. Very high setting performance like the SARCA has shown gets very important. If one pulled straight on backwards or very close to that an anchor would tend to flip and not rotate. Some more likely than others ... a Danforth for example w it's stocks sticking out.

O C Diver wrote;
"You don't need to back down on a Rocna"

Since you really don't NEED to back down on any anchor that's not say'in much for the Rocna.

O C Diver said:

You don't need to back down if you have a Rocna.

Ted

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No, No, No! A true anchor setter type person would only use a Mantas.