Chain and rope splice

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
R

Russ Borman

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
71
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Athena
Vessel Make
41 Roughwater
Ok I'm new to all this having just purchased are Roughwater a few months back. So before even trying to anchor for the 1st time, I decided to pull all the chain and rope out and see what kind of condition they were in. Here's what I found.
photo.jpg
I had a hard time just getting this up out off the anchor locker, let alone how this is going to go around the windless. So my question is whats the best splice for chain to rope,one like this where the rope is weaved up the chain.
warpchainf[1].jpg
Or the one that seams most popular is one
img-8695-thumb[1].jpg
And if this one would you splice it with a taper to help making the bend around the windless.
 
Russ Borman said:
Ok I'm new to all this having just purchased are Roughwater a few months back. So before even trying to anchor for the 1st time, I decided to pull all the chain and rope out and see what kind of condition they were in. Here's what I found.
View attachment 48229
I had a hard time just getting this up out off the anchor locker, let alone how this is going to go around the windless. So my question is whats the best splice for chain to rope,one like this where the rope is weaved up the chain.
View attachment 48230
Or the one that seams most popular is one
View attachment 48231
And if this one would you splice it with a taper to help making the bend around the windless.
Click to expand...

Mine is like the second and was professionally done. It goes through the windlass just fine.
 
I've done a couple like the second example - no experience w/ the first.
Taper fairly easy to do and looks neat - may not be all that necessary.

Splicing isn't all that difficult - if you've ever done any the principle is the same w/ the chain splice. If you haven't done any just grad a length of scrap rope and practice following any number of on-line instructions... like this one
 
Thanks Bacchus that's a cool web page. I have a Maxwell 1100 virtual windless and was reading that the tapered would do the 180 better?
 
Russ Borman said:
Thanks Bacchus that's a cool web page. I have a Maxwell 1100 virtual windless and was reading that the tapered would do the 180 better?
Click to expand...

Taper will probably help - just practice a little and you should do fine.
The recommended taper is - "Various tapering methods can be used, but
Simpson Lawrence recommends three full tucks, then two additional tucks made with half-diameter strands This makes a compact, rapidly tapered splice.."

Electrical or masking tape on ends & where you unravel the 3 strand to helps keep things from loosening up too much while you're working with it.
Check the opposite end of your rope rode - it may be in better condition than the current "working" end. Might as well start w/ the best end.
 
Last edited:
Depends on the type of line. For nylon, a thimble and an eye will work fine if it can pass through your windlass and hawse pipe. For brait, the long splice in the first photo is the way to go. I don't recommend the third method, but hey it's the most popular so go figure.


Spell check via iPhone.
 
In example 3, is it one link involved in the splice, or are others hidden within it? Very neat, but if only one link is involved, to me example 2 better/more safely spreads the load.
 
I did the first with 8 plat as I don't like the need to re-due the 2nd type so often to deal with the chafe/weak single link wrap.

Took a few tries to look good but it works fine with the gypsy.
 
Electrical or masking tape on ends & where you unravel the 3 strand to helps keep things from loosening up too much while you're working with it. Check the opposite end of your rope rode - it may be in better condition than the current "working" end. Might as well start w/ the best end.[/QUOTE said:
When splicing 3 strand I use red, white, and blue electrical tape one color per strand I can keep track of the threading sequence better that way.
Click to expand...
 
Steve said:
When splicing 3 strand I use red, white, and blue electrical tape one color per strand I can keep track of the threading sequence better that way.
Click to expand...


A Patriot.
 
I have a vertical windlass and the taper in the splice makes a lot of difference in how it feeds down into the chain pipe. The longer the taper the better it makes that 90 degree turn down the hole... I usually wind up resplicing once during the summer due to loosening up of the splice over time, and am considering whipping each end to one strand of the line to keep it from loosening up. Looking forward to trying plait in my next anchor line...
 
BruceK said:
In example 3, is it one link involved in the splice, or are others hidden within it? Very neat, but if only one link is involved, to me example 2 better/more safely spreads the load.
Click to expand...

All three strands of the line pass through the last link in the chain (two from one direction, one from the other direction). There's no real need to spread the load, each link is as strong as the rest and failure of any link has the same result.


If you buy a pre-made rope to chain rode, this is the way it will be spliced.
 
WesK said:
All three strands of the line pass through the last link in the chain (two from one direction, one from the other direction). There's no real need to spread the load, each link is as strong as the rest and failure of any link has the same result.


If you buy a pre-made rope to chain rode, this is the way it will be spliced.
Click to expand...



True, but at only one point is each strand "working" at the chain link and it needs to turn 180^ at that point, and all wear is at that one point. In the weave the line is "working at many links and none at a 180^ angle.

IMO if the weave works in your setup, while harder and more time consuming (why it is not done with store bought rode) it makes a longer lasting and stronger attachment. Just not a pretty.
 
Chain Splice Strength

Obvious to me there are personal preferences in favor of each the above methods. I'n not trying to "sell" anyone on either as my experience is somewhat limited (and all w/ the back splice rode to chain approach.

Here is some interesting info I've come across that may go counter to initial intuitive thoughts.

First - a real study of chain splice strength by West Marine - show greater initial strength than I would have thought - granted it's new spices w/o chafe but still higher results than I would have expected. I have never found comparable test of the weave approach.

"Conclusions
1. The chain used in this test is conservatively rated, and withstood loads at least 5-50% above its stated ultimate strength. The shackles also exceeded their ultimate strength ratings by 10-30%. Both products have a high ratio of ultimate strength to working load limit.
2. The small radius of the rope to chain splice reduced the ultimate strength of the line by about 12% in the case of 5/8" line, and 25% in the case of 1/2" line. This value is comparable to the strength of conventional (non-Caprolan) 5/8" three strand nylon (10,400 lbs.) and conventional 1/2" three strand
nylon line (5,750 lbs.)
3. If the chain splice is examined for chafe on a regular basis, we find no objections to the rope to chain splice from a strength reduction standpoint, as it appears close in strength to other components in the
system and to commonly available nylon line."

Second - post from another forum that claims the woven splicing method actually has a pretty high chafe rate (I'm assuming due to the contact / compression of the rode between the gypsy and the chain)

"The Bluemoment wrap chain splice is probably stronger but beware that if you start using the windlass it will eat the splice. I tried this a few years ago and within about five up and downs notice the line was being chafed very quickly. Went back to the crown splice. Crown splice moves through the windlass very well. YMMV..."

Another website re: anchor splicing that supports the above contention of high chafe w/ the weave approach.
 
Last edited:
FWIW, I've always used the third method (tapered back splice, crown splice, or shackle splice) illustrated here:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?docId=917

It runs through the windlass reasonably well, sometimes with a little help to get it started. In 17 summers of cruising BC and SE Alaska and many hundreds of overnight anchorages, it has never failed to work well, and never looked excessively worn. I cut off and reverse the rope and resplice at the end of every season.


I started making really decent three-strand splices after meeting Brion Toss, author of Chapman's book of knots (and splices), at his booth at the Seattle boat show. With just a few hints he greatly improved my technique.

Some hints: flatten out each of the three strands after you unlay them and tie on a constrictor - don't keep them twisted and round. Cut their ends into a bit of a taper, and then tape around each end with masking tape making somewhat of a point. After each round of three over and under tucks, roll the splice between your hands to firm it up and even it out, then pull each of the three strands tight, and maybe roll again, before the next round of three tucks. You shouldn't need more than 5-7 rounds of tucks, if they're done right.

In my experience, the best three-strand splicing tool is Brion's "Point Hudson Phid" - makes splicing so much easier than a basic fid! The directions for eye splicing that come with it are pretty good even without a book. Google Brion Toss to find his web site. (no connection except as a satified user)
 
RCOOK thanks for the info, that's what I'm going to do . I plan on doing my boating on the BC coast and SE Alaska and it's good to hear from some one that's been there and done that so to speak.
Thanks
 
We just ordered all new chain (5/16") braided to 5/8" line from HopCar (Parks). He did it for hundreds less than any other quote we got and had his guys (or girls... or HIM) to make the splice for us for only $10.

That said, it was the splice in the 3rd picture. With 200' of chain in the Neuse River, it is unlikely we will play out to even see the line or a while (except every year to inspect) and with a horizontal gypsy, it has to make a hellacious series of turns to get into the locker (Like 200+ degrees around the gypsy and a sharp downward turn to the locker). I am not sure the middle one would make it without issues. But I am only guessing.
 
To you guys that are planning to use 8 plait.... Good luck on the eye splice to chain. I was a Boatswain Mate in the Navy. I can splice 3 strand pretty much in my sleep. The 8 plait rope to chain eat me alive. I had the utube humming on how to and it took me about 3 hours for one "simple" splice.

I love the rode, does not tangle, not stiff, great stuff but a real bitch to splice.
 
Ok here's the finished chain to rope splice
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
Only took about an hour. It seems nice and flexable , I think it will go through the windless gust fine.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0226.jpg
    IMG_0226.jpg
    168.5 KB · Views: 77
  • IMG_0228.jpg
    IMG_0228.jpg
    194.6 KB · Views: 80
  • IMG_0227.jpg
    IMG_0227.jpg
    93.3 KB · Views: 72
Looks good.
Something else to add is I have seen heat shrink tubing slid on the three strands where line meets chain links to aid chafe protection. And link you use should be smooth no burrs.

There is room in the link you could braid in another loose cut single strand or two, anyone do that to add additional safety margin?
 
Last edited:
Heat shrink will jam the windlass, whipping with thread (or spectra fishing line) will still make the splice stiff and sometimes creates feeding problems. I have considered whipping the individual splice strand ends, spaced at intervals down the splice. I use a vertical windlass so my line makes a 180 degree turn around the windlass and then makes another 90 degree turn to dive down the hole into the chain locker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Newtrawlerowner
Verticle Windlass on a MS 400
Replies
19
Views
1K
garmstro55
garmstro55
M
POR on anchor chain?
Replies
4
Views
953
O C Diver
O C Diver
Airnet
Chain size
Replies
18
Views
3K
Airnet
Airnet
mikehar
Stinky Chain
Replies
9
Views
2K
Kit_L
Kit_L
jhance
Anchoring Technique - Three Questions
6 7 8
Replies
222
Views
17K
Mambo42
Mambo42

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom