John:
Did you do the work?
Did you find any blisters?
It would be nice to have a stainless steel keel shoe to give a little protection in case of grounding.Her bottom looks good overall.Can't wait to see the pink bottom and neon green boot strap your doing.
:lol:
There are a lot of things you can do to a boat yourself, but removing and then reapplying bottom paint has got to be one of the hardest and dirtiest.
I paid the marina manager to do my last bottom paint job and I'll either pay him again next time or take it to a local yard that often puts bottom jobs on sale.
Electrical, plumbing, and carpentry work I'll tackle myself.
Looks like the keel edge could use some work.
Is that raw fiberglass showing?
Sd
Looks like you did the stripping yourselves rather than sandblasting. Congratulations,tough job,we did a dry hard rotary sand of the remaining antifoul and everything else after osmosis work, awful job,the vertical bits were ok,but the rest, lying on your back sanding overhead, in mask and goggles...never again, but yours was a much tougher job. I can`t see any circular spot signs of blister repairs,that`s great. Your speed for engine rpm will leap,nothing like a smooth bottom. BruceK
How did you know our color scheme?
Only an idiot would seek counsel and not pay heed. To the boat yard she will go! Thanks for the info...
In Sydney, guys such as "Sodablast" will strip an IG36 for around AUD $2500 (still at/above parity). He arrives in a custom fitted truck,sets up screening,takes half a day,(our all over hard sand took me, and my better half, a weekend), works relatively quietly,recovers the grit material,cleans up,and leaves a hull ready for whatever work is required. Shipwrights working on my hull said, in hindsight, it was the better way. BruceKIf you are serious about your bottom...you can take a more methodical approach...you are better off doing some research and then farming out any work you deem necessary. Yes there are yards that specialize in this work and they are gonna do it right.... but at a price that most older trawler owners really cant afford.
.
Depends...if more material needs to come off than paint...like the gel or a layer of mat, etc...the cost skyrockets sometimes.In Sydney, guys such as "Sodablast" will strip an IG36 for around AUD $2500 (still at/above parity). He arrives in a custom fitted truck,sets up screening,takes half a day,(our all over hard sand took me, and my better half, a weekend), works relatively quietly,recovers the grit material,cleans up,and leaves a hull ready for whatever work is required. Shipwrights working on my hull said, in hindsight, it was the better way. BruceK
In Sydney, guys such as "Sodablast" will strip an IG36 for around AUD $2500 (still at/above parity). He arrives in a custom fitted truck,sets up screening,takes half a day,(our all over hard sand took me, and my better half, a weekend), works relatively quietly,recovers the grit material,cleans up,and leaves a hull ready for whatever work is required. Shipwrights working on my hull said, in hindsight, it was the better way. BruceK
Bruce: what made you soda-blast before anti-fouling? Did you have blisters to repair? Just wondering if there's a point in a non-blistering hull's life when taking back to bare is recommended.
We didn`t, but wished we had. The "quote" was from the SodaStrip man doing another boat at the yard. We did have plenty of blisters to repair, the post repair full dry sand was worthwhile but a truly nasty job, even with face masks. Before I bought, the hull had been soda stripped and antifouled, the blisters exposed were mostly just left(!), a few were bogged, 20K came off the price post survey. The bill/receipt for the prior work was "misleading", as the deceased owners son and I discovered together.Bruce: what made you soda-blast before anti-fouling? Did you have blisters to repair? Just wondering if there's a point in a non-blistering hull's life when taking back to bare is recommended.