Pump-out question
- Thread starter Poggly57
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River Cruiser
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I've started using Unique Digest-it after reading a cruisers blog about their luck with it. Turns everything to liquid in the system and will clean the tank of accumulated solids. I had the overboard discharge line plugged after the y valve, found it the 1st year I had my boat when I was winterizing the system. I read about unique cleaning a tank half full of solids in 2 pump outs so I thought I'ld give it a try. Switched the y to overboard added the product with warm water to each head and let it sit overnight next morning they both had drained down a little. Pushed the button and pumped out the head, then checked the guest head and the level was still the same before it would just push it into the other head and never discharge anything.
tego
Senior Member
Bleach also starts a chemical reaction in a stainless tank and will result in pinholes in about 4-5 years, even in small amounts! Chlorine is a very strong chemical and should never be used in ss or aluminum tanks.
bligh
Guru
Isn't there chlorine in most water that we use to fill our aluminum tanks?
Billylll
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That's exactly why I use a carbon filter when filling my watertanks. I also use the carbon filter because Chlorine will kill my water makers membranes when it's in the rinse backflush mode. I had all Poly tanks on my last vessel. With the new vessel the water tank is FRP but I'm installing the water maker in the Gulfstar so it can't tolerate Chlorine. I know we are talking about holding tanks that's why I mentioned the negatives when it comes to using Chlorine in Aluminum. Steel tanks will suffer the same damage. It's a chemical that should be used very sparingly if at all in any boat's systems in my opinion.
Bill
Yes, but don't worry about it, there isn't very much. Chlorine in city/dock water, is only there to protect the water during transport from the treatment facility to the home. It gases off in 7-10 days.
Bill
The only location aboard I pour liquid laundry bleach is into our twin 38.5 gallon plastic fresh water tanks (strange volume - huh??). About 2 cups per tank every third to fourth fill. We never fully drain them so I guess there is residual build up... but with 3 to 4 fills before adding more it should be well diluted. Our tap water looks sparkling clean and smells good. You see any drawback to my bleach regime? We do not drink from the tap or cook with it. I do however rinse my mouth with it after brushing... then I swish 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and mouth wash for 30 seconds! But, that's something I've done for decades after every brushing.
Happy Fresh Boat Daze! - Art
PS: Back to OP's pump out topic... If the vent to black water is clear then unless there is problem with evac pipe from tank to deck fitting pump outs should go fine as long as good seal occurs at the deck fitting. If tank's 1/2 full of sludge there are plenty of suggestions in posts to this thread
gwkiwi
Guru
Two tips that we got which we have used is when pumping out run a fresh water hose on low so that the water runs around the fitting and it helps seal the fitting from air leaking which allows the pump to pull out much more efficiently.
Our pull is 8 + vertical feet and this helps! now we are in fresh water and in a no discharge zone we have to rely on the holding tank due to not being able to use our Electric Scan which we prefer and love .
The second tip is to pour beer down into the holding tank preferably with it almost at empty and the yeast will eat away at the stubborn solids.
I know this tip is hard to do especially for a Kiwi like me who could be disowned by my countrymen for pouring good beer down the head.
Good luck
Our pull is 8 + vertical feet and this helps! now we are in fresh water and in a no discharge zone we have to rely on the holding tank due to not being able to use our Electric Scan which we prefer and love .
The second tip is to pour beer down into the holding tank preferably with it almost at empty and the yeast will eat away at the stubborn solids.
I know this tip is hard to do especially for a Kiwi like me who could be disowned by my countrymen for pouring good beer down the head.
Good luck
Last edited:
Capt.Bill11
Guru
You need to install a carbon filter for the fresh flush line that feeds the water maker when you flush it.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
denloe1
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A defect my Grand Banks had that is apparently common was that the copper dip tube into the holding tank which routes to either the pump out or macerator, normally was about 18" long and went nearly to tank bottom, in my case was corroded away to a 4" stub. About 3 gallons is all we could get out. Replaced all tank fittings with new PVC ones from a Seattle marine sanitation company after doing the sludge removal regimen and lots of flushing out. Now we have a nicely working 35 gal system.
Irish Rambler
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Hi Art,
We have 450 liters of fresh in 2 interconnecting internally polished stainless tanks.
When we fill our water tanks we dissolve 4 heaped tablespoons of Bi Carbonate of Soda in warm water (helps to dissolve powder) in a quart jug, pour in slowly as the tank is filling.
It will gently purify the water and keeps the tanks/hoses/taps clean with no after taste or smell.
We have 450 liters of fresh in 2 interconnecting internally polished stainless tanks.
When we fill our water tanks we dissolve 4 heaped tablespoons of Bi Carbonate of Soda in warm water (helps to dissolve powder) in a quart jug, pour in slowly as the tank is filling.
It will gently purify the water and keeps the tanks/hoses/taps clean with no after taste or smell.
Billylll
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I do that as well Capt. Bill, that way I rarely need to change the flush filter for the water maker. I still use the carbon filter when filling the fresh water tanks, overkill perhaps...
Bill
Yes but it's just a very small concentration.
The symptoms of a clogged vent or a broken dip tube would be very different. Anybody who understands a marine holding tank system (and it's very simple) would have figured out the cause of the OP's problem in just a few minutes.
Larmex99
Senior Member
I don't want to go too far off topic but on my just completed trip from Sidney to Whittier, AK my macerator stopped processing the holding tank contents. I assumed that the pump had malfunctioned so I went to a marina to pump it out. The pump out also did not do the job so I dug into the system and found that one of two vents was plugged. After unplugging it I tried it again with no results but tried the macerator while the pump out was connected. This resulted in the flow beginning. I carry lots of spares so I switched the pump out and checked all of the fittings. Still no flow without suction being applied to the waste pump out deck fixture. As I carry a wet vac I was able to evacuate the pump by applying suction to the deck fixture and activating the macerator.
I have a vacuuflush system with a sealand pump. The vacuum pump was turned off and the the seal at the heads was broken before we pumped out. The flow rate once I applied vacuum to the deck fixture was impressive, emptying the 60+ gallons in just a few minutes. I recently replaced all of the system's hoses and duck bills and had no problem for 6 months. His boat gets a lot of use(500+ hours/year) and i use digestive enzymes every 30 days.
Anyone have an idea what might cause this issue?
Thanks,
Larry
I have a vacuuflush system with a sealand pump. The vacuum pump was turned off and the the seal at the heads was broken before we pumped out. The flow rate once I applied vacuum to the deck fixture was impressive, emptying the 60+ gallons in just a few minutes. I recently replaced all of the system's hoses and duck bills and had no problem for 6 months. His boat gets a lot of use(500+ hours/year) and i use digestive enzymes every 30 days.
Anyone have an idea what might cause this issue?
Thanks,
Larry
I have seen the same thing on older Hatteras Yachts. Holding tank pick-up tube corrodes off or is holed and tank cannot be emptied.
Sounds like your deck pumpout line has a leak preventing the macerator from creating enough suction to prime and pump assuming they share the same pickup fitting on the tank. If the O-ring on the deck fitting cap is OK then you might have a cracked hose or fitting between the deck fitting and pump. Applying suction at the deck fitting and pumping simultaneously is likely enough vacuum to overcome the leak.
Larmex99
Senior Member
I guess I should have thought of that. I was chasing gremlins on the pump side while it may be on the only sani hose I could not reach to change it out. The one from the Y to the pump out tube. Time to get at that one I guess.
Thanks,
Larry
Billylll
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The hose you couldn't get to would be the most likely culprit because it is common to either waste port.
Another hard to find problem I had was a defective cracked Y valve on my old boat. This thing caused me a great amount of grief trying to diagnose and fix the problem.
Bill
