Portuguese
Guru
...The most efficient way to sterilize water and get free of inner bugs, is by mixing it at the sunset with 2 fingers of Johnnie Walker
Water quality
- Thread starter jungpeter
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The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
BandB, As much as you post, I'm surprised you haven't noticed thread creep on almost every subject around here. Better get used to it instead of getting upset, or whatever you want to call it.
Who bottles it? You? This whole time I thought you meant store bought bottled water.
ulysses
Guru
As provided earlier everything gets into our water eventually, given time water is the universal solvent. In regards to asbestos it is naturally occurring and can be found in both surface and well water. The EPD has set a MCL (Max. Contaminant Level) for asbestos at 7mf per Liter. That is 7,000,000 fibers per liter. Transite (asbestos lined) pipe was used in water line installations and is still around but not recommended for new installation water applications anymore.
I have read most of this thread over the past two days and in the process of conducting test on freezing into solid cubes both RO obtained water, "local municipal water, and water from my own well. Makers Mark will be applied liberally over all test cubes and report to follow.
I have read most of this thread over the past two days and in the process of conducting test on freezing into solid cubes both RO obtained water, "local municipal water, and water from my own well. Makers Mark will be applied liberally over all test cubes and report to follow.
Coca Cola, Pepsi, Dr Pepper.
Coca Cola bottles Dasani, Pepsi bottles Aqua Fina, Dr. Pepper bottles Deja Blue.
Last edited:
BruceK
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I think the caffeine in those actually makes for negative hydration.
We take good old Sydney tap water in 10-15L containers that originally contained "spring water", (which sometimes turns out to be just filtered tap water). Locals seem to tolerate local water, in Philippines I would never drink local water, but the locals do.
A friend has a filter plumbed off his tanks and is very happy with it.
One time our tap water somehow got giardia and cryptospiridium in it. It was fixed by scientific research, high tech treatment, and a State election. You couldn`t have mightily pissed off people going to vote after weeks of daily boiling State supplied tap water for drinking.
No, we don't drink the soft drinks. We drink water they bottle. Coca Cola bottles Dasani. Pepsi bottles Aqua Fina. Dr. Pepper bottles Deja Blue. We don't drink any caffeinated drink.
OP
OP
jungpeter
Guru
To Larry M: To my knowledge, UV sterilizers work literally at the speed of light-no warm up required. And, the longer the water is irradiated, the more likely that none of the "bugs" survive their swim through your water system and into your body. So sizing the sterilizer to your flow rate is important. And yes, I do subscribe to professional medical opinion that bacteria and viruses do, in fact, live in your fresh water system, no matter the source of the water that was placed into the storage tank.
Again, to the best of my understanding, a UV sterilizer is most properly used (in the context of our recreational vessels) immediately downstream of the water storage tank outlet, and therefore prior to any end-use of the water. One could argue that, given the lengthy fresh water piping runs on a typical boat, a UV sterilizer should more properly be employed immediately UPSTREAM of each outlet intended for human consumption. But that's not really practical, so a single UV sterilizer plumbed into the fresh water supply immediately downstream from the storage tank was my choice for my installation.
Mine runs on 40W of 110VAC. The sterilizer was sized to be somewhat larger than the maximum output of my fresh water pump, which is ~5gpm. I used a sterilizer rated for 12gpm flow. As the sterilization chamber (about 2" dia x 36" long) gets rather hot (~120 deg F) without water circulating through the chamber, I do not leave it on 24/7. Rather, I plumbed a flow sensor downstream of the demand water pump that activates a 12V/110V relay to provide power to the sterilizer whenever water flowed through the water pump, and 110VAC was available. In the instructions I received from the manufacturer of my sterilizer, there was no indication that it would be harmed by intermittent operation. It's really only a fluorescent light bulb, but emitting in the UV band instead of the visible light spectrum. How long will the bulb last? Beats me-they're cheap and easy to replace should the bulb fail.
Mine was supplied by the Clean Water Store. Residential Well Water Treatment, Iron Filters, Acid Neutralizers, Chlorinators
All-up cost was ~$300, including sterilizer, flow sensor, water hose, relay, wiring, etc.
Hope this helps.
Pete
Again, to the best of my understanding, a UV sterilizer is most properly used (in the context of our recreational vessels) immediately downstream of the water storage tank outlet, and therefore prior to any end-use of the water. One could argue that, given the lengthy fresh water piping runs on a typical boat, a UV sterilizer should more properly be employed immediately UPSTREAM of each outlet intended for human consumption. But that's not really practical, so a single UV sterilizer plumbed into the fresh water supply immediately downstream from the storage tank was my choice for my installation.
Mine runs on 40W of 110VAC. The sterilizer was sized to be somewhat larger than the maximum output of my fresh water pump, which is ~5gpm. I used a sterilizer rated for 12gpm flow. As the sterilization chamber (about 2" dia x 36" long) gets rather hot (~120 deg F) without water circulating through the chamber, I do not leave it on 24/7. Rather, I plumbed a flow sensor downstream of the demand water pump that activates a 12V/110V relay to provide power to the sterilizer whenever water flowed through the water pump, and 110VAC was available. In the instructions I received from the manufacturer of my sterilizer, there was no indication that it would be harmed by intermittent operation. It's really only a fluorescent light bulb, but emitting in the UV band instead of the visible light spectrum. How long will the bulb last? Beats me-they're cheap and easy to replace should the bulb fail.
Mine was supplied by the Clean Water Store. Residential Well Water Treatment, Iron Filters, Acid Neutralizers, Chlorinators
All-up cost was ~$300, including sterilizer, flow sensor, water hose, relay, wiring, etc.
Hope this helps.
Pete
FF
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I plumbed a flow sensor downstream of the demand water pump that activates a 12V/110V relay to provide power to the sterilizer whenever water flowed through the water pump, and 110VAC was available.
So you have no accumulator , and the FW pump runs for every drop of water?
So you have no accumulator , and the FW pump runs for every drop of water?
Nice set up but I'd check with the manufacturer. Florescent bulbs do need warm up time before they reach full light output so I would think the UV lamps would also. This came from an installation/operation and maintenance manual put out by Atlantic Ultraviolet Corp.
RECOMMENDED OPTIONS
8. Time Delay Mechanism: Provides a 2-minute warm up period during which the ultraviolet lamp achieves its full
germicidal output before the water is allowed to flow through the water purifier. The time delay mechanism is used in conjunction with, and is electrically connected to the Solenoid Valve.
OP
OP
jungpeter
Guru
To FF: You are correct. I use a Jabsco Sensor-Max VSD water pump. It does not require an accumulator to operate. And yes, the pump turns on and all fresh water passes through it whenever a downstream tap is opened, even ever so slightly. It's a real good leak detector, as any cycling of the pump without a fixture being opened is a sure sign of a leak in the fresh water system somewhere.
To Larry M: I have had a difficult time in the past researching factual, honest, low level scientific- or engineering-level information from most vendors of marine products. Starting at the vendor level, they are typically sales persons, with little or no technical knowledge of their products. Pushing past them to the actual manufacturers of the product is difficult, as many marine products are foreign-made. So....often I've had to rely on some intuition (backed by 43+ years in related technical fields) to refine my boat's system designs.
Regarding warm up of the light used in a UV sterilizer, yours is a fine example. As you point out, various vendors provide varying information. For instance, what is "full germicidal output"? How much "output" is provided by the bulb upon instantaneous startup? 1/2? 1/10? How much is enough? Is the type and/or manufacturer of the bulb the same as mine? Who knows? Aaarrrrhhh, makes my teeth hurt!
So, I make best estimates, based on information at hand, and go forward. Should my solution differ from your preference, so be it. A simple fix is to remove the pressure switch, and operate the UV sterilizer 24/7. With a bulb service life in my case of 9000 hours, my guess is no harm, no foul. I certainly DO NOT claim to have all the answers, but simply proceed with what works for me.
Regards,
Pete
To Larry M: I have had a difficult time in the past researching factual, honest, low level scientific- or engineering-level information from most vendors of marine products. Starting at the vendor level, they are typically sales persons, with little or no technical knowledge of their products. Pushing past them to the actual manufacturers of the product is difficult, as many marine products are foreign-made. So....often I've had to rely on some intuition (backed by 43+ years in related technical fields) to refine my boat's system designs.
Regarding warm up of the light used in a UV sterilizer, yours is a fine example. As you point out, various vendors provide varying information. For instance, what is "full germicidal output"? How much "output" is provided by the bulb upon instantaneous startup? 1/2? 1/10? How much is enough? Is the type and/or manufacturer of the bulb the same as mine? Who knows? Aaarrrrhhh, makes my teeth hurt!
So, I make best estimates, based on information at hand, and go forward. Should my solution differ from your preference, so be it. A simple fix is to remove the pressure switch, and operate the UV sterilizer 24/7. With a bulb service life in my case of 9000 hours, my guess is no harm, no foul. I certainly DO NOT claim to have all the answers, but simply proceed with what works for me.
Regards,
Pete
ulysses
Guru
Pete:
I see nothing wrong with your set up and no need for 24/7 lighting. Knowing that the water that comes out first at point of use is the water that was last in passing through the sterilizer on it previous cycle. Your system being slightly over-sized based on your flow rates increases the time of UV exposure (in the tube) compensating for the ramp up of UV rays.
I see nothing wrong with your set up and no need for 24/7 lighting. Knowing that the water that comes out first at point of use is the water that was last in passing through the sterilizer on it previous cycle. Your system being slightly over-sized based on your flow rates increases the time of UV exposure (in the tube) compensating for the ramp up of UV rays.
