How would you fix this?

Hey everyone!

I need some ideas on fixing this hole in our water tank. It is on the TOP of the tank under the mater bed. This is a hole from a non-functional water gauge that started leaking. I hoped for a fairly easy fix, but when I removed the sensor and scraped away all the "goo", I found a mangled mess of metal. Not the level surface I had hoped to find.

So... TBH, I would rather not pay for a portable welder to come out and patch it. I don't think trying to bodge a new sensor into the old will work either, besides, I prefer the sight tube. I tried to do a little metal manipulation with a hammer and whatever I could find to use as a dolly, but I wasn't very successful.


What I tried yesterday was to just use 3M adhesive and a rubber patch, but the unevenness of the surface just made it look like water would eventually make it fail. I just didn't see a way to make it work.

If there is a good side to it, I am able to reach thru the access panel to the underside of the hole. What I am thinking is fabricate a West Systems epoxy and fiberglass patch.

Any other ideas? Any tips on making a fiberglass patch?

Cut a metal patch about 1 inch larger in diameter and affix in place with JB Weld. I've used JB on hot low (7 psi) pressure vessels and it held up great for years. In your no pressure situation it should work just fine

I'm with sunchaser !

Greetings,
Mr. Tom. How would I fix this? The easy way would be to fabricate 2 round "thickish" plates (probably SS to match the tank), larger than the damaged area by 5/8" or so, drill, say a 3/8" hole in the center of each, apply a layer(s) of butyl tape to the edges of each plate (as a gasket), put one plate inside and bolt the other plate to its mate from the outside with a gob of butyl tape around the bolt and between the plates.
Depending on your soldering skills you could solder on a SS patch as well.

I'm with Flywright's patch and Sunchaser's JB Weld. Should last forever!
(I've also decided to run for public office! )

Cut a larger disc out of metal twice the thickness of the tank. Drill 8 holes around the perimeter that pan head self tapping stainless screws will fit through. drill coresponding smaller holes in the tank that the screws will tap when screwed in. I would put it together with silicone caulk (my choice) or 5200 and call it done.

Ted

All good ideas. Thanks. My issues that it's nowhere near flat, so I guess I need to either take a proper hammer/dolly down to work the metal around the hole flat enough to not have to use a 1/2" bead of JB Weld or to massage a patch to fit the warped metal around the hole. Or both. Thye picture doesn't show how warped the entire area, not just the metal adjacent to the hole, is. There is easily an inch from high spot to low spot.

I do think JB Weld might be the best solution that I didn't think of. I like RTF's double-plate idea too.

Any top plate material you want, self tapping screws prepped. Scrub clean with 80-120 grit...put a 1/2 inch high bead of silicone around the hole...lightly thread the screws in...let the silicone thicken over night...screw down snugly.

I would vote with O C Driver and 5200 not silicone.

Fred P...............

Fredp said:

I would vote with O C Driver and 5200 not silicone.

Fred P...............

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The only difference in this case is that 5200 is about 5X more expensive and adhesive is mot really needed for the repair if screws are used.

The silicone is just forming a custom gasket.

I'd cut out the mangled area to create a flat surface.

Then the JB weld, or silicone, or 5200 option would be easier, and more effective

Two discs larger than the hole, matching and drilled at the same time 6 to 8 holes around the edges. A bolt washers and locknut for each of the holes. place one disk on the top side drill matching hole through the tank top, push the bolts through the top disk and the tank surface. Since you have acess to the hole from the bottom put a gasket or sealant or both on the lower disk slip it up into place with the bolts through it put the washers and nuts on the bolts. Then cross tighten the nuts till it draws up tight, as you tighten it it will squeeze the tank material and should level it off to make a good seal. this is like some of the other suggestions, but you can do it all in an hour or so, on your own.

Tom.B said:

All good ideas. Thanks. My issues that it's nowhere near flat, so I guess I need to either take a proper hammer/dolly down to work the metal around the hole flat enough to not have to use a 1/2" bead of JB Weld or to massage a patch to fit the warped metal around the hole. Or both. Thye picture doesn't show how warped the entire area, not just the metal adjacent to the hole, is. There is easily an inch from high spot to low spot.

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In my solution using a 2 or 3 times thicker plate means that when you tighten the screws, the tank material will conform to the cover plate as the cover plate is thicker and will not bend / distort.

Agree with Psneeld about letting the silicone thicken before tightening the screws.

Ted

I think the two round compression plates as others described above would do a good job, and since you can access it through the cover plate on the side, there'd probably be no problem with holding a wrench on a bolt right through the center. JB would do it too, but I'd use the butyl rubber tape as RT describes. With thick enough plates top and bottom and a husky bolt in the center, you could likely draw the metal flat, then loosen and apply whatever sealant you want. Sure wish my hole was that accessible.

How would I fix it?

If it is aluminum, I would get down in my lazarette with some Devcon aluminum repair putty (F, I think), some coarse sandpaper and a slightly oversized aluminum patch. I would rough up the surface, and then notice that I should rebed my water fill as there is a slight water intrusion in one little area. So, I would go back up on deck remove the screws to the water fill and pry off the fill which someone bedded with 5200. I would then mix up some west system epoxy with a bit of fumed silica and slather to repair the damaged area of the deck under the fill cap. While waiting for it to set up I would then go back down in the lazarette and step on my autopilot feed back rod. While bending it back into position, I would measure up the rudder shaft to order that rudder position indicator from Comnav that I've alway had my eye on. I would then get the Western Marine (not West Marine) catalog out and get the dimensions for the gauge which goes on the helm. Noticing that I if I put my the gauge there, I won't have a place for my tablet that I found fits just perfectly by the controls, but I had to unscrew a screw so it was proud so the tablet wouldn't slide off, so I will measure the length I will require for that half round of teak that I bought from that guy who saws reclaimed old-growth teak down by Qualicum. Thinking of the teak, I will remember that I bought some teak oil from him (real teak oil that he makes by squeezing his sawdust with a grape press) and put another coat on my newly finished helm. Then my wife will call and ask me when I am coming home because supper is ready. She will ask me if I got the handrails installed. I will answer no.

Now if it is a stainless tank...

That's pretty damn funny but Oh, so true!

SeaHorse II said:

(I've also decided to run for public office! )

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What, with a dark hulled boat? (Sorry, wrong thread).

Hey! There's nothing wrong with owning a dark hulled boat! Some compare it to coming out of the closet.

Northern Spy, thanks for the belly laugh. After reading through your post, I forgot what it was you were doing?

Fix it so its easy to undo, the next owner may require a gauge for water management.

Northern spy. Best post I have read in years.

SD

FlyWright said:

Hey! There's nothing wrong with owning a dark hulled boat! Some compare it to coming out of the closet.

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........................

FlyWright said:

Hey! There's nothing wrong with owning a dark hulled boat! Some compare it to coming out of the closet.

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........................ (Stages of disbelief)

skipperdude said:

Northern spy. Best post I have read in years.

SD

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Sad part is that it's true...
Today I went down to the boat to install the handrails and I ended up swapping out an old Dickinson stove for a newer one. Go figure.