Headed for the Broughton group

We will be heading directly to the Broughton's this year. Plan to spend 4+ weeks poking about the area. Should be there around July 5 or so.

Hope to pull in a nice size halibut or 2, see bears etc. With luck, might even get a day or two without rain.

Will also spend 10 days in Desolation on the way back in Aug.

Nice, just sounds like fun times in the rain.

bshanafelt said:

We will be heading directly to the Broughton's this year. Plan to spend 4+ weeks poking about the area. Should be there around July 5 or so.

Hope to pull in a nice size halibut or 2, see bears etc. With luck, might even get a day or two without rain.

Will also spend 10 days in Desolation on the way back in Aug.

Click to expand...

I'll be about a week behind you. We are leaving Port Orchard on the 14th. I'll keep an eye out for you.

Ron

We are headed to Desolation in late July for 3 weeks. We were thinking about going to Princess Louisa, but decided to head north instead and explore. Final itinerary isn't set as of yet, but plenty of fishing, crabbing, prawning, (maybe even diving for scallops) is on the agenda!

Finally saw a few trawlers heading north today. Usually see a steady stream for both Victoria Day and Memorial Day weekends. Might be quiet up there.

windmist said:

I'll be about a week behind you. We are leaving Port Orchard on the 14th. I'll keep an eye out for you.

Ron

Click to expand...

And we will be somewhere between the two, leaving Seattle July 8th. We like to limit the length of our legs, so our "direct" route to the Broughtons will likely involve Anacortes, Prevost Harbor, Nanaimo, a couple of steps TBD, and Refuge Cove . The plan is to take advantage of neap tides for the transit of Yuculta/Gillard/Dent the morning of the 14th or 15th. Then Blind Bay, Port Harvey, and finally into the Broughtons via Chatham Channnel for about 4 weeks alternating between the hook and the various small happy hour marinas.

The last half of August should see us taking in Octopus Islands, Desolation, and Princess Louisa, to name a few and, finally, the Gulf Islands before returning to US waters the first week of September.

Or something like that. We have 8+ weeks and will take whatever the weather allows.

Sounds like it's going to get crowded! Desolation Sound – Definately A Misnomer! | Pacific Wooden Boats.

QB said:

Sounds like it's going to get crowded! Desolation Sound – Definately A Misnomer! | Pacific Wooden Boats.

Click to expand...

Good article and unfortunently, very true.

He makes a reference to the Broughton's, about 3 days further north at trawler speeds, and while less crowded the weather is much worse. It is rain country and lots of people stay a week or so and then get back to Desolation so they can see the sun again. However, you will seldom find a secluded anchourage and some of the more popular spots may have to be bypassed because there isn't any room for you. One place called Laura Cove is an anchourage I have never been able to get in. Wall to wall boats.

Ron

Whatever you do, you do not want to go into Von Donop Inlet. It is quiet, uncrowded, and apparently only appeals to folks who are looking for a beautiful and serene experience unsullied by party boats and shoreline development.
Be warned.

Tonic said:

And we will be somewhere between the two, leaving Seattle July 8th. We like to limit the length of our legs, so our "direct" route to the Broughtons will likely involve Anacortes, Prevost Harbor, Nanaimo, a couple of steps TBD, and Refuge Cove . The plan is to take advantage of neap tides for the transit of Yuculta/Gillard/Dent the morning of the 14th or 15th. Then Blind Bay, Port Harvey, and finally into the Broughtons via Chatham Channnel for about 4 weeks alternating between the hook and the various small happy hour marinas.

The last half of August should see us taking in Octopus Islands, Desolation, and Princess Louisa, to name a few and, finally, the Gulf Islands before returning to US waters the first week of September.

Or something like that. We have 8+ weeks and will take whatever the weather allows.

Click to expand...

What no stop in Sidney BC, PT haven..............

rochepoint said:

What no stop in Sidney BC, PT haven..............

Click to expand...

Never been there, which is a good reason try it on the way home this time, perhaps, maybe. What are the chances of a 50' guest slip at Port Sidney Marina around Labour Day weekend?

Tonic said:

Never been there, which is a good reason try it on the way home this time, perhaps, maybe. What are the chances of a 50' guest slip at Port Sidney Marina around Labour Day weekend?

Click to expand...

They take reservations, it's a very nice place. Also nice is the Sidney Spit marine park.

Scott Welch
Island Eagle

We plan to be in the Desolation Sound region for three to five weeks this summer. Luckily, a lot of folks only go to the busy spots, as noted by others above. We will not be in those busy spots. The last time I anchored in Laura cove was in 1976. I frequently cruise through Prideaux haven in my dinghy, just to count the unfortunates who are crowded in there. In the peak weeks of the summer there are usually in excess of 100 boats. My choice of anchorages is partly driven by crowding, those are the places I don't visit.

Conrad said:

Whatever you do, you do not want to go into Von Donop Inlet. It is quiet, uncrowded, and apparently only appeals to folks who are looking for a beautiful and serene experience unsullied by party boats and shoreline development.
Be warned.

Click to expand...

Conrad, this is suppose to be a secret, sort of like the sunshine here.
Best days last cruise were Von Donop Inlet and Roscoe Bay, both were quiet and uncrowded.

rochepoint said:

Conrad, this is suppose to be a secret, sort of like the sunshine here.
Best days last cruise were Von Donop Inlet and Roscoe Bay, both were quiet and uncrowded.

Click to expand...

Sorry Mike; maybe an oops but in my sad defense I felt that TF members would honour the sanctity of the place!

I just won't mention the THE best place to drop anchor in Von Donop Inlet.

Never been in to Roscoe Bay but have passed it any number of times - it always looked crowded to me, but that could just be a perception from a distance.

A "rainy" day in Roscoe Bay........
I think the high tide only entrance is a turn off to some. We were one of only four boats with the other rafted to us.

rochepoint said:

A "rainy" day in Roscoe Bay........
I think the high tide only entrance is a turn off to some. We were one of only four boats with the other rafted to us.

Click to expand...

Looks much quieter than I've seen on my cruisebys. (if that's a word)

To me the tide thing is good, as it only allows committed cruisers in! Kind of like Hidden Basin on Nelson Island, another gem. Oops.

Conrad:

I hope that when you are in VD, you get up to the lakes. I discovered two canoes, complete with fishing gear and paddles, on my walks up to Robertson lake and Wylie Lake. I did borrow the one on Wylie to explore the far side. Both qualify as good reasons to make VD a stop on a circumnavigation of Cortez.

This thread has me recalling some of the reasons I keep going back to Von Donop.
One dawn, as I was giving the dog a shore run, I approached what appeared from the boat to be a beachable part of the shoreline, dog on the bow, and as I approached, I saw a family of Mergansers paddling quietly along close to shore. So as not to disturb them, I stopped in my approach. As I watched, I became aware of another watcher, on shore, where a Lynx was waiting for breakfast as the Mergansers approached her location (I assume all predator cats are female). I chose to allow the Mergansers to live another day, so disturbed the Lynx, who ran off into the bush. I took the dog to a different part of the shoreline.

My personal favourite is Toba Inlet, this was summer 2006. The green water is due to algae-rich glacial runoff.

Scott:

Stick your toe into that "algae rich glacial runoff" and you will change your mind. those are bits of ice that haven't yet melted! OK, in between the ice bits there may be some algae.

koliver said:

Scott: Stick your toe into that "algae rich glacial runoff" and you will change your mind. those are bits of ice that haven't yet melted! OK, in between the ice bits there may be some algae.

Click to expand...

Yes, I suppose we should show them what it really looks like, you have to haul your boats behind snow machines (this is actually a picture from when I was about 15 and lived in the arctic):

koliver said:

This thread has me recalling some of the reasons I keep going back to Von Donop.
One dawn, as I was giving the dog a shore run, I approached what appeared from the boat to be a beachable part of the shoreline, dog on the bow, and as I approached, I saw a family of Mergansers paddling quietly along close to shore. So as not to disturb them, I stopped in my approach. As I watched, I became aware of another watcher, on shore, where a Lynx was waiting for breakfast as the Mergansers approached her location (I assume all predator cats are female). I chose to allow the Mergansers to live another day, so disturbed the Lynx, who ran off into the bush. I took the dog to a different part of the shoreline.

Click to expand...

More than once we've had deer overseeing our dropping the anchor (hopefully not too disdainfully!). One afternoon's entertainment was watching a bald eagle pursue a seagull for about ten minutes before finally breaking off. All in absolute silence.
Of course listening to the mournful howls of the wolves at night can be either beautiful or unsettling.

Seeing a Lynx - that would have been interesting!

koliver said:

Conrad:

I hope that when you are in VD, you get up to the lakes. I discovered two canoes, complete with fishing gear and paddles, on my walks up to Robertson lake and Wylie Lake. I did borrow the one on Wylie to explore the far side. Both qualify as good reasons to make VD a stop on a circumnavigation of Cortez.

Click to expand...

Never been up to the lakes, although we've done various versions of the hike over to Squirrel Cove. Will have to give the lakes a try - hopefully the canoes will be waiting!

Conrad said:

Of course listening to the mournful howls of the wolves at night can be either beautiful or unsettling.

Click to expand...

I've only been to your part of the world twice but I remember every second of it. To hear wolves howling at night.....I'd love that. I also fell in love with Campbell River and the swirling water between CR and Quadra Island. We docked the boat (57 Nordhavn) at April Point. What a place!

I know there are a number of list members who have transited the rapids along the 'back' way north. Yuculta, Gillard, Dent and Arran by name.

Perhaps someone would like to explain some of the tricks about getting through this maze of rapids in a slow boat. And maybe mention some of the 'better' anchorages to take in the event slack is missed at one of the constrictions,

bshanafelt said:

I know there are a number of list members who have transited the rapids along the 'back' way north. Yuculta, Gillard, Dent and Arran by name.

Perhaps someone would like to explain some of the tricks about getting through this maze of rapids in a slow boat. And maybe mention some of the 'better' anchorages to take in the event slack is missed at one of the constrictions,

Click to expand...

This is my rule - Go with the current up to an hour before or after slack and when you get further north, you can use 2 hours for Green and Whirlpool if you choose that way. You can stay at Big Bay before going through Gillard and Dent if your timing is off and after you get through Dent, we normally stop at Shoal Bay. Nice people. Always go with the current if you have a slow boat, which I do.

I normally start at Squirrel Cove before going through Yuculta, Gillard and Dent and then spend the night at Shoal Bay. If you are early at Yuculta just hug the shore and the current will be less.

Where are you at? I'm in Bellingham. We forgot the passports so have to wait until tomorrow to get them and tomorrow is suppose to have some bad weather so I hope we can continue on Friday. Then its Point Roberts, False Cheek to clear customs, Gibsons, Smugglers Cove, Powell River, a few stops in Desolation and then on to points north.

Ron

I can't offer any prior experience as this will also be my first time through the Yuculta-Dent complex. As I'm sure you are aware, Dent turns 15-25 minutes before Gillard and Yuculta some minutes after, so there is no way heading north/west to hit slack at all areas (assuming you don't want to stop at Big Bay). Most everything I read suggests hitting Dent at turn-to-ebb even if that means fighting the last of the flood from Harbott point through Yuculta and Gillard. You can then ride the subsequent ebb current along Cordero channel. Judging from your chart it looks like you have already done the same research I have regarding the use of back-eddies against the flood. Obviously, smaller (neap) exchanges will offer somewhat lesser currents.

Not sure if it helps but here's my plan for July 14th. Tidal exchanges are favorable for a morning transit with turn-to-ebb at Dent at 9:11, 25 minutes before slack at Gillard, 30 minutes before Yuculta. I aim to be at Harbott Point (south tip of Stuart) at 8:15 am. I will fight the flood current, using the back-eddies through Yuculta, hit Gillard Passage with maybe 45 minutes remaining before slack there and bully my way through. With the neap tides I shouldn't face anything too strong (and, if needed, I can double my 8 knot cruising speed). Then, hopefully, I will go through Dent dead on slack and wondering what all the fuss is about. "Devils hole? What Devils hole?"

No plans for Arran rapids but I understand they are strictly slack only for us slowbies. Picture below is the Sechelt rapids (taken from the shore!).

I would recommend getting Local Knowledge: A Skipper's Reference : Tacoma To Ketchikan Amazon.com: Local Knowledge: A Skipper's Reference : Tacoma To Ketchikan (Fine Edge Nautical Knowledge) (9781932310115): Kevin Monahan: Books

I can't recommend this book enough. He has detailed recommendations for how
to transit the rapids around Johnstone Straight, including calculations on
exactly how to calculate departure times and slack water for each set of
rapids. When I took Island Eagle north from Campbell River to Alert Bay for
the first time (summer 2007) I followed his calculations to the minute. We
had a completely uneventful passage, leaving Campbell River about 0700 and
arriving at Alert Bay about 1530. Coming back we overnighted in Kelsey Bay
and again used his calculations to ensure we transited at the best water.

If you have the time, you can arrange your trip so that you do it on a day
when the slack water is in the early morning (in my case it was a fluke).
Also, the marina in Campbell River is very convenient, you can take a
shopping card from the big-box stores right to your boat.

Here's another link to the book: Local Knowledge

IslandEagle said:

I would recommend getting Local Knowledge: A Skipper's Reference : Tacoma To Ketchikan Amazon.com: Local Knowledge: A Skipper's Reference : Tacoma To Ketchikan (Fine Edge Nautical Knowledge) (9781932310115): Kevin Monahan: Books

I can't recommend this book enough. He has detailed recommendations for how
to transit the rapids around Johnstone Straight, including calculations on
exactly how to calculate departure times and slack water for each set of
rapids. When I took Island Eagle north from Campbell River to Alert Bay for
the first time (summer 2007) I followed his calculations to the minute. We
had a completely uneventful passage, leaving Campbell River about 0700 and
arriving at Alert Bay about 1530. Coming back we overnighted in Kelsey Bay
and again used his calculations to ensure we transited at the best water.

If you have the time, you can arrange your trip so that you do it on a day
when the slack water is in the early morning (in my case it was a fluke).
Also, the marina in Campbell River is very convenient, you can take a
shopping card from the big-box stores right to your boat.

Here's another link to the book: Local Knowledge

Click to expand...

It is a good reference. Most marine stores and book sellers have it on the shelf in the area.