Tad - if you are too busy that's fine. Lets see in a couple of months.
On my 'to do' list is to measure the hull lines .... Doesn't seem too difficult, just a bit painstaking so I'm procrastinating.
Not difficult at all, just requires a bit of care. You need a string that's longer than the boat, some painters masking tape, 25' tape measure, a medium length carpenters level, sharpi marker, plumb bob, and a clipboard with pen and paper. A nice tool is a self-leveling cross-line laser level. Some places rent these or you can buy one for about $150 plus a mounting pole. A nice afternoon and a willing helper....you're set.
On your boat you have two surfaces to measure, the bottom (horizontal) and the topsides and bow (vertical). Two separate methods are used. The string is stretched out tight parallel to the keel at 18" off centerline on the side you will measure (only do one side of the boat). It can be at any height that's convenient but at least 10-12" below the hull bottom. Use the tape to mark stations every 2.5' or 3' from bow to stern. Mark those stations "A" through whatever.
The string is your "base" line and positioned at "base" vertical height. You will measure everything relative to the baseline and base height. I usually set up level planks or blocking beyond the ends of the boat and just drive some nails in these to tie the string to. The base string will move outboard in even increments (say 12 or 18") after each buttock line measurement.
So to start the measuring you work along your base string from one end to the other, taking measurements from the string (baseline) up vertically to the hull surface and recording them (this is part of the reason for the helper). The hand level or plumb bob are used in conjunction with the tape measure to get a vertical measurement. If you like you can mark the stations on the hull using the hand level, eyeball, and sharpi.
Do three or four buttock lines in this way, moving the base string outboard after each series of measurements along the boat. The last series of bottom measurements will be of the chine or chines. Use the plumb bob to get widths of the chine from your base line, and then have the helper hold the tape on the chine while you use the level to get chine height above base.....
Then switch to horizontal measure mode. In this case the string moves vertically outside the boat (still parallel with the keel line) in steps that represent waterlines. Using the level and tape measure from the string to hull surface at each station and work your way up to the sheer. Again use the plumb bob held by your helper along the sheer to get width and height from the base line. The topsides is where the cross line laser is nice, it projects a line of light horizontally (waterline) and vertically (base line) at the same time. Due to the hull curve you need to set it up twice, beyond the bow and stern, and raise it in increments just like the string.
That's a start.......
For the pilothouse windows I had in mind a two part solution. First replacing with thicker laminated glass and second being able to fit a removable bracket that has a 4-6" pressure pad in the center of the window that can be tensioned up to a suitable level. It would absorb deflection of the glass when hit by a wave.
You still need an emergency cover if the window is blown out. The usual thing is an aluminum plate with a small cutout to look through. The hole can be pretty small, say 5" by 8" and you can still see, depending on how close you can get to the window. Use a piece of paper or cardboard to check.
My engine vents are in the bulwark, not easy to extend in an elegant way at least. See pic. I could seal those and have the openings on the inside, along the deck walkway, or even on the portuguese bridge wraparound, near the pilothouse door for the intake vent. That way the shear has to be submerged to get flooding. Maybe I should have a cover plate that can be used to cover the walkway side openings for normal use, and for bad weather reposition those cover plates onto the outside vent openings.
Higher and closer to the centerline is better. If they can go inside the bulwark and higher that's better than where they are. Downside is hot air/noise coming out into the cockpit which may be nasty.