That would be great, the difficulty is finding an exposed edge without dismantling. We found one at the aft lazarette where we have big hatch doors.Marin might be interested in what you find. A lot of our GBs were built by/for Mariner Cruisers in Singapore/Asia.Bruce, I think there is a GB at our club with that combination. I am going down today to look at the wooden boat show, I will try to get a photo of said GB and post it.
I`m surprised too, pleasantly, few areas need repair. The worst are just fwd of the step up,where wood was used.I am still surprised she has foam decks and not the hardwood blocks, from memory our hulls are only a couple apart,Sarawana is #32
I think the combination nonslip/teak will look good.Works for the GB 36' in the pictures.One thing I did note though is that there is no colour variation from the deck sides and the non slip, on a sunny day it may be a bit hard to know where the non slip starts and finishes.
It is possible fitouts were done in Australia,seeing as Mariner/Riv were already building and fitting out planing cruisers here. Hard to be sure. They were popular sold well, and are well regarded.I only mention the 42s because there are a number around from that era.Maybe they bought hulls from American Marine/Grand Banks and then did the topsides themselves. On the GB forum these boats have been talked about as having been built in Australia but I have no way of knowing it that's true or not. I would be surprised if American Marine/Grand Banks, which until fairly recently has always been on financially shaky ground if not actually in bankruptcy, would have created different molds for a low number of boats aimed at one specific market. But whacking out some extra hulls makes sense since it would represent additional profit only.
I was just saw pics of a Riviera 35. The origin of the cabin/window design of "Australian built" GB 36s, produced and sold by Riviera, is quite apparent.The hull looks identical to the Ken Smith GB semi-planing hull. But the topsides bear only a passing resemblance to an actual GB.
Andy,I thought of that and asked for rounded edges. Squared might have been more effective keeping the water at bay, but there was a risk the stubbed toe might be mine. And it will look heaps better than squared.Bruce , I trust the teak pads for the fuel fillers will be rounded off, not box like. Looking forward to finished pics.
The issue may be more of water working it's way down under the teak than a "separate" pad where the filler is.
I figured that. I have not decided whether to copy that or put a pad on top of the new teak. I could not decide what the guy was going to do with the filler flange, recess it into the pad, or leave it proud on top. Maybe he was still deciding when the pics were done. I think recess it flush, otherwise it adds a toe cut risk to a stub risk.The problem the fellow.. was trying to eliminate was the possibility of moisture following a seam up and under the lip of the fill fitting. While these fittings are bedded when they're installed there is the potential for a seam to pull free of one side of its groove or the other and thus create a path for moisture to get under the fill fitting. By surrounding the fill fitting with a solid ring of teak the potential for this problem is eliminated.