48-volt house bank. Next Gen for boats?

Seems like the cool kit for off grid solar is 48v. There's some 24v, and almost no 12v except Victron.

I've been seeing these all-in-one systems (Inverter/charger/MPPT/transfer switch) such as this one reviewed by Will Prowse.

https://youtu.be/WfIkPI81cdI

3000w inverter, 80 Amp charger, and the solar controller can take up to 5000w/500v of solar panels. It's around $700. Comparable victron components would be 5x that plus a lot of space a cabling.

Balmar now makes a 48v alternator ($2600- ouch).

https://balmar.net/96-series-48v-alternators/

Granted it would mean a second alternator for most boats, but the components and price points seem to be approaching usable for boats.

Server rack batteries are getting pretty afforable and are designed to integrate nicely all-in-one inverters. Seems like this is coming of age. Anyone thinking of a 48v house system?

Peter

I've considered 24v or 48v house systems. The challenge is that converting an existing boat isn't easy and I don't love the idea of all of the DC stuff running off voltage converters.

Plenty of things will take 12v or 24v input already or are easy to swap for a 24v version, go going to 24v house is mostly an exercise in parts swapping (save for a few things like VHFs where 24v stuff is hard to find).

For 48v, finding even the basics like bilge pumps is basically impossible.

Personally, if I were to do it, I think I'd end up with a split 12v and 48v house system. The 12v side would be something like a single AGM that's permanently in float fed by a DC-DC converter running off the 48v house bank. In theory, that battery should never get discharged, so it'll last a long time just acting as a buffer at 13.5 volts or so. This could also be done with a 24v house and only using the separate 12v bus for things like helm electronics that can't be had in a 24v version, etc.


In the long run, if you want big inverters fed from large battery banks, etc. then you pretty much get forced into at least a 24v house bank.

rslifkin said:

I've considered 24v or 48v house systems. The challenge is that converting an existing boat isn't easy and I don't love the idea of all of the DC stuff running off voltage converters.

Plenty of things will take 12v or 24v input already or are easy to swap for a 24v version, go going to 24v house is mostly an exercise in parts swapping (save for a few things like VHFs where 24v stuff is hard to find).

For 48v, finding even the basics like bilge pumps is basically impossible.

Personally, if I were to do it, I think I'd end up with a split 12v and 48v house system. The 12v side would be something like a single AGM that's permanently in float fed by a DC-DC converter running off the 48v house bank. In theory, that battery should never get discharged, so it'll last a long time just acting as a buffer at 13.5 volts or so. This could also be done with a 24v house and only using the separate 12v bus for things like helm electronics that can't be had in a 24v version, etc.


In the long run, if you want big inverters fed from large battery banks, etc. then you pretty much get forced into at least a 24v house bank.

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I wasn't clear. Would keep the existing DC system (12v/24v/whatever). But rather than adapt the AC system as some sort of multiple of DC, just go with the purpose-built off-grid AC system. All the LFP bank would do is power the AC system, perhaps charge the DC system when needed.

Thoughts? Just seems boats are seeking more off-grid capabilities. Why not use the best/brightest thinking and components in the off-grid industry?

Peter

mvweebles said:

I wasn't clear. Would keep the existing DC system (12v/24v/whatever). But rather than adapt the AC system as some sort of multiple of DC, just go with the purpose-built off-grid AC system. All the LFP bank would do is power the AC system, perhaps charge the DC system when needed.

Thoughts? Just seems boats are seeking more off-grid capabilities. Why not use the best/brightest thinking and components in the off-grid industry?

Peter

Click to expand...

That's definitely a viable option. I just don't personally like split house banks for DC house and inverter. It strikes me as extra maintenance, and I'd rather have the power all in 1 bucket where I can use it for whatever, instead of only having some portion available for a given purpose.

I understand your thinking, but now that house battery banks are getting so massive, maybe it's time to re-think energy management. 5-years ago, 600AH AGM bank (400AH usable) was the bomb. Now, 1000ah LFP (900AH usable) are increasingly common. That's 100% due to house loads, not DC loads. Maybe it's time to re-think the system to match how the boat is used.

Peter

mvweebles said:

I understand your thinking, but now that house battery banks are getting so massive, maybe it's time to re-think energy management. 5-years ago, 600AH AGM bank (400AH usable) was the bomb. Now, 1000ah LFP (900AH usable) are increasingly common. That's 100% due to house loads, not DC loads. Maybe it's time to re-think the system to match how the boat is used.

Peter

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Yeah, once you get into 10+ kwh lithium you pretty much have to go to 48v to enjoy the benefits.

I was struck when wiring my inverter that the cabling was the same size as that in my home service. I get about as much power out of the inverter as I do a single circuit at home. We've taken 12v to the limits. It's a bottleneck now.

There is huge growth in 48v marine. It's easy to get thrusters in 48v, and I suspect lots of good A/C products. There are lots of small saildrive units that could provide backup propulsion. It can be about more than just powering big inverters.

And imagine being able to draw 5 kw from your main engine on demand. That's got to be a useful capability.

You need a use case and rationale for making changes though. 'Reality rears its ugly head,' an old friend used to say. The recreational market shows the way, but marine solutions are still pricey.

Jeff F said:

Yeah, once you get into 10+ kwh lithium you pretty much have to go to 48v to enjoy the benefits.

I was struck when wiring my inverter that the cabling was the same size as that in my home service. I get about as much power out of the inverter as I do a single circuit at home. We've taken 12v to the limits. It's a bottleneck now.

There is huge growth in 48v marine. It's easy to get thrusters in 48v, and I suspect lots of good A/C products. There are lots of small saildrive units that could provide backup propulsion. It can be about more than just powering big inverters.

And imagine being able to draw 5 kw from your main engine on demand. That's got to be a useful capability.

You need a use case and rationale for making changes though. 'Reality rears its ugly head,' an old friend used to say. The recreational market shows the way, but marine solutions are still pricey.

Click to expand...

So here's a sample off-grid system that is 100% UL Certified (not just compliant). This one is 240v with 30kwh of battery storage (each is $1400, which is damn cheap - HERE). The EG4 all-in-one is $1200 HERE.

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html

Scale the picture in the above down to 120vac and just two 100A/48V batteries for a boat. For around $4k, you have the equivilent of eight BattleBorn 100AH (12V) batteries; an enormous MPPT solar controller (accepts 8000W/500V solar panel input); a 6500W inverter with transfer switch; and 120A (48V) battery charger. And it's UL certified.

Just seems like dealing with 48v is a lot easier problem to solve than dealing with tons of individual components, cabling, etc. as part of a 12v or 24v Victron-based system.

I'm not going to do this, but if I were starting from scratch I would consider. And if I were building a boat, I'd sure as hell have a place for server-rack batteries.

Peter

mvweebles said:

Just seems like dealing with 48v is a lot easier problem to solve than dealing with tons of individual components, cabling, etc. as part of a 12v or 24v Victron-based system.

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Victron has a full suite of 48v products. The choice of operating voltage is independent of the choice of individual solutions or components.

A couple of years ago there were lots of consumer offerings in 12v that had similar (reduced) capabilities. I think there was general agreement here at the time that they weren't really suitable for long term marine use.

I think you still need the basic set of components, but they provide more power handling and reduced cabling constraints with 48v.

I think 48V is where things are heading. Increasingly, big batteries are primarily needed for inverters, and they make a lot of sense there. But there are still dangling issues that are slowly getting resolved.

Thrusters, windlasses, etc are slowly becoming available in 48V, but not commonplace. Prestolite used to have a 48V alternator but dropped it. Balmar has one that they probably custom wind, but it’s not the largest frame, and not the highest output. I considered 48V, but the alternators were the hang up since I didn’t want a custom one-off. But it will all get there. Land systems have been 48V for a long time, and increasingly companies are only making 48V inverters. My home system have been 48V for about 15 years now.

Oh, and another challenge is circuit breaker and switch ratings. Lots of current products are rated for 32V, give or take. For a 48V nominal system everything needs to be rated to 60V or higher.

twistedtree said:

Prestolite used to have a 48V alternator but dropped it. Balmar has one that they probably custom wind, but it’s not the largest frame, and not the highest output. I considered 48V, but the alternators were the hang up since I didn’t want a custom one-off.

Click to expand...

Everyone's use case is different, of course. Someone who is into solar may be fine foregoing a 48v alternator when building a 48v pack. That may explain the dearth of offerings. Just speculating here. Maybe generator driven charging and solar are sufficient for the majority of adopters of 48v systems, with alternators left supporting the legacy 12v system.

I decided to go all AC power when I got my current boat (except nav electronics, nav lights and bilge pumps. I've used a 48v system for about 10 years and don't find it any more trouble than 12v. What I like and why I went with 48v was the smaller wiring needed to allow me to place the inverter further away from the batteries. And at the time 48v inverters put out the power I wanted and simpler to gang inverters for higher power output.

Any alternator can be changed to put out 48v, but most automotive types can't run at full power too long w/o overheating. I run a 48v alternator on each main along with a 12v. Not difficult to add an alternator on a Detroit Diesel with several places for taking power.

I use to run a generator all the time, but with the mains charging the inverter bank, I almost don't need a generator. I only use one now when anchored for several days and time it to water making and laundry.

twistedtree said:

I think 48V is where things are heading. Increasingly, big batteries are primarily needed for inverters, and they make a lot of sense there. But there are still dangling issues that are slowly getting resolved.

Thrusters, windlasses, etc are slowly becoming available in 48V, but not commonplace. Prestolite used to have a 48V alternator but dropped it. Balmar has one that they probably custom wind, but it’s not the largest frame, and not the highest output. I considered 48V, but the alternators were the hang up since I didn’t want a custom one-off. But it will all get there. Land systems have been 48V for a long time, and increasingly companies are only making 48V inverters. My home system have been 48V for about 15 years now.

Oh, and another challenge is circuit breaker and switch ratings. Lots of current products are rated for 32V, give or take. For a 48V nominal system everything needs to be rated to 60V or higher.

Click to expand...

I was not thinking of converting any of the existing DC (12v or 24v) to 48v. Rather do what Lepke has apparently done: dedicate the house bank to AC current generation (120VAC and/or 240VAC). Would require maintaining and perhaps mildly enlarging the existing DC battery bank; and adding a second 48v alternator to one/both engines.

Here's my thinking. 30-years ago, a 42-foot cabin cruiser probably consumed 500w/h of electricity per day - 1/2 kwh of electricity (both AC and DC). Probably 50% AC via a generator, 50% DC via battery storage.

With the advent of inverters, then solar and LFP, the thirst for more house-like AC attachments (watermakers, W/Ds, TVs, small appliances, etc.) can now be mostly quenched without becoming a full-time generator boat. The net DC usage (excluding inverter loads) has probably remained static or perhaps decreased due to electronics being more efficient; while net AC usage (including inverter load) has exploded. Simultaneously, LFP batteries are affordable sources of lightweight and energy dense storage that can more easily be replenished than their FLA predecessors.

There's a lot of momentum towards AC power on a modern 42-foot cruiser. While the components of the power system have modernized, the overall configuration and design of the AC power system remains the same as 30-years ago when it served a much smaller purpose. The Off Grid community offers a better mousetrap - 48v components such as 48v server-rack batteries and all-in-one controllers. But it does require de-coupling of the house bank from the ship's DC config (DC-DC charger could provide a small bridge). To my eyes, it's a more efficient and less complicated system that is a cleaner install.

Peter

Thinking about the loads I've got onboard, it's a pretty good mix of AC and DC. Fridge is DC, most of our lighting is DC, electronics for internet and systems monitoring are all DC, helm electronics (at least some of which run 24/7 at anchor) are DC, as is the stereo. For AC, we have some lighting, the base station for the onboard cameras, the ice maker, and lots of incidental loads (phone charging, making coffee, etc.). I'd say our typical loads (ignoring the ice maker dying last season and pending repair) are split about 50/50 between AC and DC.

We keep AC power available 24/7 via the inverter. Given more battery and solar capacity, I'd up-size the inverter and move a few loads like the stove onto it, which would increase our AC usage from batteries noticeably. But I doubt our DC usage would drop below 25 - 30% unless we convert to AC powered refrigeration. And more importantly as far as structuring the electrical system, if I look at the most critical loads, I come up with things like VHFs, bilge pumps, etc. which are all DC.

That said, converting to a higher voltage house bank doesn't inherently mean having to segment the power systems completely. If going 24v for house, it's easy to keep most of it together with just a small segment of devices that need a 12v step-down. If going 48v, then your DC devices won't be run directly from the house bank, so it'll take some planning to figure out how you do want to power them and how to do it reliably.

Interestingly, if going for the voltage converter method of powering the DC house loads, some items like bilge pumps will perform better than in a pure 12v or 24v system. They'll get constant voltage at, say, 13.5 volts rather than potentially only getting 11.8 volts if the batteries are down to 50% and there's a significant load running. Of course, LFP batteries give some of that same advantage regardless (due to their flatter voltage curve).


The one big load that stuck in my mind as an issue is a windlass. They're typically 12 or 24v, so with a 48v house bank, you'd need a huge DC-DC converter to run one (or you'd be forced to have a separate windlass battery). But that's actually solved now! It looks like Maxwell has started offering 48v motors for most of their windlass models. Which means even at 48v, you could run the windlass natively from the house bank.

I've been thinking about this a lot as well. When I got my boat 4 years ago I ripped out the entire 120V system and the generator and re-wired as a 12V only single-bank boat - wiring was 1979 original with lots of "improvements" and not safe. I used FLA batteries and a fair bit of 4/0 and 2/0 cable.

If I were to do it now I'd think seriously about a big LFP 48v bus and a single 12V AGM battery for engine start and to stabilize the 12VDC bus for house loads as discussed above. Being able to shop at Home Depot versus West Marine is a big deal. Eliminating propane to go induction would be a no-brainer. 120VAC water pumps would be fantastic.

Are there windlass & thruster motors powered by 120AC? In theory they could be cheaper and more reliable than 48VDC motors.

mvweebles said:

I was not thinking of converting any of the existing DC (12v or 24v) to 48v. Rather do what Lepke has apparently done: dedicate the house bank to AC current generation (120VAC and/or 240VAC). Would require maintaining and perhaps mildly enlarging the existing DC battery bank; and adding a second 48v alternator to one/both engines.

Here's my thinking. 30-years ago, a 42-foot cabin cruiser probably consumed 500w/h of electricity per day - 1/2 kwh of electricity (both AC and DC). Probably 50% AC via a generator, 50% DC via battery storage.

With the advent of inverters, then solar and LFP, the thirst for more house-like AC attachments (watermakers, W/Ds, TVs, small appliances, etc.) can now be mostly quenched without becoming a full-time generator boat. The net DC usage (excluding inverter loads) has probably remained static or perhaps decreased due to electronics being more efficient; while net AC usage (including inverter load) has exploded. Simultaneously, LFP batteries are affordable sources of lightweight and energy dense storage that can more easily be replenished than their FLA predecessors.

There's a lot of momentum towards AC power on a modern 42-foot cruiser. While the components of the power system have modernized, the overall configuration and design of the AC power system remains the same as 30-years ago when it served a much smaller purpose. The Off Grid community offers a better mousetrap - 48v components such as 48v server-rack batteries and all-in-one controllers. But it does require de-coupling of the house bank from the ship's DC config (DC-DC charger could provide a small bridge). To my eyes, it's a more efficient and less complicated system that is a cleaner install.

Peter

Click to expand...

I agree. Contemplating 48V for inverters also entails deciding what to do with other heavy DC loads. You can keep them, along with an appropriately sized 24 or 12V bank, or you can look at pushing them to either 48VDC, or 120/240VAC. On my current boat I decided early on that AC power would be a 24x7 thing, either via inverters, shore power, or generators. As a result, I pushed a lot of stuff to AC, and 240VAC at that. Watermakers, fuel transfer pumps, waste pumps, oil transfer pumps, house water pumps are all 240VAC. I didn't make the steering pumps AC, but in hind sight probably should have. This was part of contemplating 48VDC for the inverters, such that I could keep a more modest 24V bank, along with a 12V communications bank. I think it all could have worked, but I was going to end up with 3 different voltage battery banks, not two, and that seemed to be moving in the wrong direction. And as noted earlier, I couldn't get comfortable with the availability of 48V alternators. I rely on them heavy for all underway power, and to recharge batteries while underway. Solar can't even come close on this boat, and I am envious of boats where that does work. Just doesn't in my case between available space and inevitable shading.

twistedtree said:

I agree. Contemplating 48V for inverters also entails deciding what to do with other heavy DC loads. You can keep them, along with an appropriately sized 24 or 12V bank, or you can look at pushing them to either 48VDC, or 120/240VAC. On my current boat I decided early on that AC power would be a 24x7 thing, either via inverters, shore power, or generators. As a result, I pushed a lot of stuff to AC, and 240VAC at that. Watermakers, fuel transfer pumps, waste pumps, oil transfer pumps, house water pumps are all 240VAC. I didn't make the steering pumps AC, but in hind sight probably should have. This was part of contemplating 48VDC for the inverters, such that I could keep a more modest 24V bank, along with a 12V communications bank. I think it all could have worked, but I was going to end up with 3 different voltage battery banks, not two, and that seemed to be moving in the wrong direction. And as noted earlier, I couldn't get comfortable with the availability of 48V alternators. I rely on them heavy for all underway power, and to recharge batteries while underway. Solar can't even come close on this boat, and I am envious of boats where that does work. Just doesn't in my case between available space and inevitable shading.

Click to expand...

Two thoughts come to mind reading this:

First, your comments on deciding you would be a 24/7 AC boat is poignent - we are saying the same thing, different scale. Current battery/inverter technology has opened the door to off-grid access for even modest sized boats without routinely firing-up the genny. My point in starting this thread was to suggest maybe it's time to stop thinking in increments of 12v/24v to match the ship's systems.

Second, having spent countless hours (100's to be sure) on my tiny electrical system, I cannot imagine the time, effort, research, and frankly expense you went through on your new boat. I am in absolute awe.

Peter

mvweebles said:

Second, having spent countless hours (100's to be sure) on my tiny electrical system, I cannot imagine the time, effort, research, and frankly expense you went through on your new boat. I am in absolute awe.



Peter

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Yep. It's especially awesome that you share your experience and rationale. It's been enormously useful to me over a long time, and has shaped much of my thinking.

I also get through the adjacent thread why good 48v alternators are so important for you.

mvweebles said:

Just seems like dealing with 48v is a lot easier problem to solve than dealing with tons of individual components, cabling, etc. as part of a 12v or 24v Victron-based system.

Peter

Click to expand...

You are not aware that Victron provides 48 V systems ?

dutch-barge said:

You are not aware that Victron provides 48 V systems ?

Click to expand...

They do, but I think the point was that there are more component and integrated systems choices once you get to 48v compared to the components available for 12v and 24v systems.

rslifkin said:

They do, but I think the point was that there are more component and integrated systems choices once you get to 48v compared to the components available for 12v and 24v systems.

Click to expand...

Correct. The newer breed of all-in-one components are pretty cool. They will easily accept 2000w of solar in a single string without combiner boxes so you can run panels in series with very little line loss. The inverter/charger portion is similarly high power. Here's an example - video from Will Prowse. It's a 6000w inverter, accepts 7000w/450v of solar. Under $1500 https://youtu.be/NJIAS5hYg4s

Greatly simplifies wiring and management. I'm sure Victron will introduce their own version. Schneider, a top quality brand in off grid solar has one.

Peter.

mvweebles said:

Correct. The newer breed of all-in-one components are pretty cool. They will easily accept 2000w of solar in a single string without combiner boxes so you can run panels in series with very little line loss. The inverter/charger portion is similarly high power. Here's an example - video from Will Prowse. It's a 6000w inverter, accepts 7000w/450v of solar. Under $1500 https://youtu.be/NJIAS5hYg4s

Greatly simplifies wiring and management. I'm sure Victron will introduce their own version. Schneider, a top quality brand in off grid solar has one.

Peter.

Click to expand...

Victron does have something kinda like that as their Easysolar product. It's basically a Multiplus, MPPT controller, GX device, and in some cases, power distribution all packed into 1 box. It's not functionally much different than the other Victron gear though. And I think the Easysolar is only for the 230v parts of the world, no 120v versions.

The Will Prowse videos are definitely interesting. He has a lot of admiration for Victron "They just work - no failures." To me, the magic is how easy this stuff is becoming. And inexpensive. We all expected the price of batteries to drop, but I didn't fully comprehend how other advances would develop. I did a small off-grid system with a friend in BFE Wyoming a while back - ton of cabling and controllers that took quite a bit of real estate on a closet wall. And it was pretty expensive. While the Victron Quattro inverters are still top shelf, there are options that are much less expensive and work better.

QUESTION: I realize that low-frequency inverters have much higher surge capacity than high frequency inverters; and they have much larger and heavier transformers. But are there are other benefits to low-frequency inverters? Why one over the other, or is this just a transition time in inverter technology; that they are just becoming smaller/ligher/cheaper?

I spent a lot of time looking at 48v for Kaos prior to my big LiFePO4 project earlier this year (https://seabits.com/kaos-lifepo4-electrical-system-v1/) and found a number of challenges I didn't want to mess with being a beta tester for. They include things that have already been cited in this thread, but include $$$$$ alternators, converters from 48v to 12v (existing boat is 12v), and a few other less important things.

These two items were pretty key parts of my system, and having tested hundreds of products for the boating world, I wasn't interested in doing that here this particular time around.

I also had some concerns around various fuses and switches that had max limits of 48v and the higher charging amounts of a 48v system. I've had some reports from folks where this has been an issue with various products.

stevemitchell said:

I spent a lot of time looking at 48v for Kaos prior to my big LiFePO4 project earlier this year (https://seabits.com/kaos-lifepo4-electrical-system-v1/) and found a number of challenges I didn't want to mess with being a beta tester for. They include things that have already been cited in this thread, but include $$$$$ alternators, converters from 48v to 12v (existing boat is 12v), and a few other less important things.

These two items were pretty key parts of my system, and having tested hundreds of products for the boating world, I wasn't interested in doing that here this particular time around.

I also had some concerns around various fuses and switches that had max limits of 48v and the higher charging amounts of a 48v system. I've had some reports from folks where this has been an issue with various products.

Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the insight Steve. Question: why do you have to convert from 48v to 12v (or 24v)? My thinking was to sequester the house bank for AC/inverter loads only. Rationale being that boats are rapidly expanding inverter/AC loads, rather than blend a 12v/24v system, why not just build an inverter-only house bank using mature (and simple) off-grid kit. Thoughts?

Your point about alternator expense is well taken. i realize you are deep into R&D, but your cover picture (below), while impressive, is motivation for me to look at the all-in-one inverter/chargers. Expense of an alternator would be more than offset.

Peter

When I purchased Salty, my American Tug 34, it was factory built as an east coast boat…electric range, heat pumps for AC, generator but no inverter. Rather than swap electric range for LP and pay a ton to add an inverter and extra battery capacity, I simply installed a portable 48V “power station” (Hysolis MPS3K). It has a built-in 3000w inverter and MPPT solar controller. Charging is via 110V shore power or by running the generator. When we leave the dock, I plug in the hard wired 30A cord into the ship’s shore power inlet and we’re good to go. This 3.5Kw power station runs all the boat’s AC needs, and more than once, I have used it to charge the 12V house bank by running the 50A ProMariner charger. I also use it to charge the electric motor on my tender. The Hysolis is entirely separate from the 12VDC system and does not rely on the alternator for charging. The entire installation took me all of 4 hours…I’ve been running with this unit now for the past two seasons and it has worked out great…no issues.

Land based systems for off the grid living are paving the way. The largest system I’ve seen is 50 kVa with a solar array and back up Gen set. 48 V is indeed the case.

That said, I and many others have onboard 110 volt systems with 12 volt for instruments and nav lights. 24V for thrusters or Windlass are common too.

Unless one owns a stripped out project boat, is doing a sizable new build or is an at the dock hobbyist I question the allure of 48 volt redos.

For off the grid maritimers like Lepke, Insequent or Simi the chase to 48V makes a lot of sense. For us normal folks 110 and 12V is installed, still being done on new builds and reliable.

Weebles, time the start the engine and head to the Sea of Cortez. Summer is just around the corner with Mexico less enticing and the PNW beckoning.

Our summer cruising plans are solidified, projects wrapped up and “0” time spent on or worrying about boat electrical systems. It can be done

sunchaser said:

......

Weebles, time the start the engine and head to the Sea of Cortez. Summer is just around the corner with Mexico less enticing and the PNW beckoning.

Click to expand...

I have zero plans to modify my electrical infrastructure on Weebles - my 120AC demands are likely at the lowest quartile of TFers. Like many, I have a mostly Victron setup with many small components, multiple small batteries (LFP), tons of cabling and connectors, and a lot of points of failure. While the picture from SeaBits post is an extreme driven by the experimental nature of running such a business,, just seems like a lot of complexity and expense that deserves to be reconsidered from time to time. Boating is still transitioning from a 12vdc FLA mindset that seems to heavily influence 120vac capabilities. We embrace a 120vac generator who's only connection to 12v/24v is a battery charger, why not take that same thinking and accept a system based on dedicated 48v where there are apparently economical and simple components such as all-in-one units and server rack batteries?

At one point, I considered doing a season in the PNW but doubt that's in the cards for me. Not sure exactly what the plan is - won't have one until the never ending refit chapter is closed, including enough sea trial to be confident of outcome. Grrr....

Peter

We are moving to 48v. Last year's plans - whoops, 2021's! - are here with a nice (IMO) diagram. We are lucky (well, purpose-bought) to be able to include a lot of solar (upto 6kW), and will be going hybrid electric propulsion (probably parallel) using 48v as well.

Love reading those going ahead of the pack as we bring up the middle - Steve, Twisted, Peter et al.

mcarthur said:

We are moving to 48v. Last year's plans - whoops, 2021's! - are here with a nice (IMO) diagram. We are lucky (well, purpose-bought) to be able to include a lot of solar (upto 6kW), and will be going hybrid electric propulsion (probably parallel) using 48v as well.

Love reading those going ahead of the pack as we bring up the middle - Steve, Twisted, Peter et al.

Click to expand...

Nice blog and nice project. What's the latest?