Seacock Identification

Can anyone tell me what brand of seacocks these are?

Pretty sure they are original from 1982. The main intake is getting very stiff to operate so I thought I would disassemble them over the winter, clean them up, and replace any parts that looked worn.

Any hints on how to go about cleaning up the crusty exterior grunge that has accumulated over the decades?

Thanks.

Hopcar is probably the one to ask what brand it is. He knows just about all the parts since he used to be in the marine parts business. You can PM him. As to cleaning it up, I like Extreme Simple Green or POR 15 Degreaser for cleaning dirty greasy stuff. I use a stiff bristle brush but not a metallic brush. Maybe use a Scotch Brite pad along with the degreaser.

This might be helpful to you:
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

Greetings,
Mr. RB. If they're stiff they probably only need a clean up with solvent and a re-grease. Once you get them apart you will be able to see if there's any wear which can be remedied with a bit of valve grinding compound. Clean compound out REALLY well with solvent followed by detergent. Outside? As suggested, detergent and a stiff brush.
I've been using "Simply Amazing" from the Dollar Store. Cheap and just as good as anything else IMO.

Thanks for the replies people. The "marinehowto" link will be useful to us newbie types.

One of the reasons I am trying to identify the actual brand of the seacock is that I was hoping to find some specific disassembly instructions. I have a nasty habit of breaking things I am trying to fix because I don't know the proper way of taking them apart. This one seems to have at least on cotter pin buried in the grease and slime.

The marine how to article referenced above should tell you everything you need to know about refurbishing these tapered plug valves.

Don’t do anything about the green external patina. Outdoor bronze statues have carried this patina for centuries.

David

I believe what you've got there is a Wilcox-Crittenden seacock.
I removed two of them from my boat. I tried to re-seat one but took too much material off the cone for it to be useable.
Remove the two nuts from the end opposite the handle. Tap the cone out toward the handle side with a a wood block (so that you don't crush the threads) and hammer.
Im assuming the boat is not in the water.

View attachment WC2.pdf

Greetings,
Mr. RB. The link Mr. M. posted (Post #3) is pretty comprehensive. The ONLY thing I might add is hide your hammers.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. RB. The link Mr. M. posted (Post #3) is pretty comprehensive. The ONLY thing I might add is hide your hammers.

Click to expand...

My dog, Radar, loves hammers. He will carry them around and as soon as I start hammering on something he comes running. He carries 8 pound sledge hammers too. Every hammer I own is chewed up…

Comodave you have too much faith in me. That said it does kind of look like a Wilcox-Crittenden. Look for a WC logo on the body and handle.

The link that Mike GB32 posted should tell everything you need to refurbish it. Of course at those prices you might just want to buy a new one.?

R. Bush said:

Can anyone tell me what brand of seacocks these are?

Pretty sure they are original from 1982. The main intake is getting very stiff to operate so I thought I would disassemble them over the winter, clean them up, and replace any parts that looked worn.

Any hints on how to go about cleaning up the crusty exterior grunge that has accumulated over the decades?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Looks like Wilcox Crittenden

HopCar said:

Comodave you have too much faith in me. That said it does kind of look like a Wilcox-Crittenden. Look for a WC logo on the body and handle.

The link that Mike GB32 posted should tell everything you need to refurbish it. Of course at those prices you might just want to buy a new one.?

Click to expand...

Then why is it that you were able to ID it?

sea cocks

They are exactly the same that I had on my Bristol 42 , 1980 model, I had always assumed they were Perko as they went straight to Perko strainers but I could be wrong. My reason for replying is that I changed these out for probably the same reasons you are having problems. to stop them dripping I had to tighten the spindle nut and to be able to operate them I had to loosen it and tap it out a bit with a hammer before they would turn. I found the process was so difficult (bad access) that I didn't turn the sea cocks off when I left the boat and always worried as this is not best practice. Last time I was on the hard for antifouling I removed these and the skin fittings which were both 40 years old and replaced them with "TruDesign" skin fittings and valves, they are made in New Zealand from glass reinforced nylon and are flame resistant and extremely strong, not cheap but worth every penny. Shutting off the valves is now easy and and I sleep tight knowing that the valves are turned off and the fittings are not suffering from electrolysis (which I used to ponder because of the age )
One of the main issues with checking 40 year old bronze fittings to see if they are still sound is that they are so hard to dismantle that they will probably be u/s by the time you have unscrewed (if you can) the fittings. I had 5 through hulls and 2 of the valves were leaking and both of those had to be cut off because they were too tight to undo and their position was such that I couldn't get in there with bigger tools.