Teak Deck Issue

291 is for general use. 295 UV is for plastics I believe. I have not checked for a couple of years.

Greg QS said:

LOL !
That looks like my deck.
Get ready for some fun. Its just time to re caulk the deck. Its some serious time. Remove the caulk , I had to route out all the joints with a router because there was no room/ groove left for the caulk. Then sand joints. and clean, install deck separator membrane, fill with caulk and trowel in. Will look like total ****. Then sand/grind flat. Will take time. You need good quality sanding equipment. You can make like new.

I have 7/ 10 hr days in labor in this so far. I still have my companion ways and the swim platform to do. Looking great though. Make sure you use the right caulking materials. I used a sikafex dc 90 pro that sanded well and did not clog the sander.

The popping area take a multi tool and cut out a piece of teak that is lifted and re set it to the deck, and re screw down. If not you will continue to "pop" the board with the expansion and contraction of the boards. The boards need to be bedded down or they will just tear the screws through the boards.

Check out Andy at Boatworkstoday.com he has great videos on this topic.

Click to expand...

My post from 10/29 all the info you need bed and seam same product

Ready to put down new plank and have a question. Bed it in with sandbags to weight it down and then put screws in after it has cured or…put screws in to hold it down while curing? I am told the screws were only used to hold planks tight while curing. If so, do I need screws? Using the TDS bedding adhesive.

firstbase said:

Ready to put down new plank and have a question. Bed it in with sandbags to weight it down and then put screws in after it has cured or…put screws in to hold it down while curing? I am told the screws were only used to hold planks tight while curing. If so, do I need screws? Using the TDS bedding adhesive.

Click to expand...

Maybe drill an oversized hole, fill with epoxy, and then screw it down. With a hole potted with epoxy you can leave the screw in and bung it.

So use the screws as pressure while it cures?

I would probably use screws to hold it down just because. But if you don’t use screws then cut a strip of wood the same size and the teak plank. Lay it on top of the teak plank with something like wax paper between it and the plank so it doesn’t get glued down too. Then put your weight on top of the scrap wood. This will help get the pressure directly on the teak plank rather than spread out over the surrounding planks. Also put blue tape on all the surrounding planks so any squeeze out doesn’t stick to them.

I would use the TDS product to bed the teak plank. Use pan head screws with washers to hold the plank in place to allow the bedding to cure maybe several weeks depends on temp and humidity. Then remove the screws and then bung the holes. The 3/8 inch teak does not allow much thickness to install a flat head screw and bung. If you are careful you could get a bung thickness of about 1/8 inch when flushed out with the screws. For the first step drill the hole thru the teak use a drill diameter which matches the screw thread diameter.
Mask the teak surfaces and do the seams with the tds 440 after the plank is cured. I use a multitool saw the a knife blade to trim the seam material after it is cured does less damage that sanding in my experience.

RustyPBucket said:

I used to have this problem posting pictures to forums. Now I edit them to ‘square’. Seems to have solved the problem of rotated photos.

Click to expand...

Ummn? How do you do that? A little more detail please.

I’m moving along on this project. New plank is in place but needs some sanding to bring it even with adjacent planks, excess caulk in seams have been shaved down and 150+- bungs replaced. The seam shaving revealed a couple of spots where the caulk had separated from the sides but overall I have been very surprised (and relieved) on the quality of the seams. Also relieved that I have found no evidence of soft spots or water intrusion in the core. I drilled down to the core in the spot where the plank end lifted and it was dry. Next step is to lightly sand the seams and bring down some of the ridges in the planks where possible and without going crazy. There are two other planks that need replacing due to very excessive wear but will deal with those later.

Now for my question, I had some tear out while drilling two bung replacements. What is the proper way to deal with fixing? Epoxy and Teak dust seems like a bad idea as it will not wear down with the Teak. Titebond and saw dust? How has this been dealt with in the past? Just deal with the epoxy as it becomes an issue over time?

firstbase said:

I’m moving along on this project. New plank is in place but needs some sanding to bring it even with adjacent planks, excess caulk in seams have been shaved down and 150+- bungs replaced. The seam shaving revealed a couple of spots where the caulk had separated from the sides but overall I have been very surprised (and relieved) on the quality of the seams. Also relieved that I have found no evidence of soft spots or water intrusion in the core. I drilled down to the core in the spot where the plank end lifted and it was dry. Next step is to lightly sand the seams and bring down some of the ridges in the planks where possible and without going crazy. There are two other planks that need replacing due to very excessive wear but will deal with those later.

Now for my question, I had some tear out while drilling two bung replacements. What is the proper way to deal with fixing? Epoxy and Teak dust seems like a bad idea as it will not wear down with the Teak. Titebond and saw dust? How has this been dealt with in the past? Just deal with the epoxy as it becomes an issue over time?

Click to expand...

How bad of a tear out? Can you do a larger bung?

CharlieO. said:

How bad of a tear out? Can you do a larger bung?

Click to expand...

Hmm, hadn’t thought about that one. Going to the boat in a while and will check. Even if a larger bung, I have some 1/2”, wouldn’t cover it all it would decrease the tear out.

Use a 1/2 inch bung as suggested above. To eliminate tear out when drilling, run the drill in reverse for a second and then switch back to drill the hole. Save the old teak and get your self a set of bung plug cutters. They should come as standard equipment with a GB. Lol.

Chinese ones will do https://www.harborfreight.com/plug-...9R63LAS7ypemJTGc_drwWIr9tegwfv4caAhlsEALw_wcB

One other point with all this, I have a feeling that shaving the seams will expose them to UV and drying out faster. That and the light sanding will probably accelerate seams failing so will be on increased seam watch in the future. I have been getting lowering the seam down to the deck on the seams I have opened. Using a chisel to take out the rabbeted portion of the plank. Not sure if that is a good or bad idea but seemed like the right thing to do. Sure wouldn’t want to use a chisel on the whole deck but it works in these spots.

Cigatoo said:

Use a 1/2 inch bung as suggested above. To eliminate tear out when drilling, run the drill in reverse for a second and then switch back to drill the hole. Save the old teak and get your self a set of bung plug cutters. They should come as standard equipment with a GB. Lol.

Chinese ones will do https://www.harborfreight.com/plug-...9R63LAS7ypemJTGc_drwWIr9tegwfv4caAhlsEALw_wcB

Click to expand...

Thanks, yes I have been running a 3/8” drill in reverse as the first step. I believe i forgot the step with these two which proves the wisdom in doing it that way. Duh. Yes, have a nice plug cutter set but am still using up a peanut butter jar full of 3/8” left by the PO.

As suggested above a larger bung is a possible easy option. I have also used carved pieces of teak similar in shape to the damaged area. I carefully mark the outline of the plug then carve out the area with small chisels or a dremel tool and then fit the plug to the cut out. When you have a tight fit wash/clean the plug and the cut out with acetone. Then I use West GFlex coating the plug and the hole. The surrounding area was masked prior to the gluing. Tap the plug in place and let cure. I save teak scraps so I can find a piece that is similar in color and grain to match the damaged area or to make bungs. If you are careful it will be difficult to see the repair after it ages and matches the silvered surrounding wood. Negative: it take a good amount of time to do a proper job --- don't get in a hurry.

I have also used a router to repair a piece of teak that has split open on the deck. I mount the router on a track used for a saw and machine a slot with the router. Freud makes straight flue bits from 1/16 inch up so you can select the correct diameter for the repair. The track allows for a accurate straight cut. I cut the teak to size on a table saw or on a planner. Fit the plug and follow a similar process for gluing as described earlier.

Screws are used to temporarily hold the shelf in place.
If it is possible not to use screws, screws only cause problems.