Comodave
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2015
- Messages
- 21,298
- Location
- Au Gres, MI
- Vessel Name
- Black Dog
- Vessel Make
- Formula 41PC
291 is for general use. 295 UV is for plastics I believe. I have not checked for a couple of years.
LOL !
That looks like my deck.
Get ready for some fun. Its just time to re caulk the deck. Its some serious time. Remove the caulk , I had to route out all the joints with a router because there was no room/ groove left for the caulk. Then sand joints. and clean, install deck separator membrane, fill with caulk and trowel in. Will look like total ****. Then sand/grind flat. Will take time. You need good quality sanding equipment. You can make like new.
I have 7/ 10 hr days in labor in this so far. I still have my companion ways and the swim platform to do. Looking great though. Make sure you use the right caulking materials. I used a sikafex dc 90 pro that sanded well and did not clog the sander.
The popping area take a multi tool and cut out a piece of teak that is lifted and re set it to the deck, and re screw down. If not you will continue to "pop" the board with the expansion and contraction of the boards. The boards need to be bedded down or they will just tear the screws through the boards.
Check out Andy at Boatworkstoday.com he has great videos on this topic.
Ready to put down new plank and have a question. Bed it in with sandbags to weight it down and then put screws in after it has cured or…put screws in to hold it down while curing? I am told the screws were only used to hold planks tight while curing. If so, do I need screws? Using the TDS bedding adhesive.
I used to have this problem posting pictures to forums. Now I edit them to ‘square’. Seems to have solved the problem of rotated photos.
I’m moving along on this project. New plank is in place but needs some sanding to bring it even with adjacent planks, excess caulk in seams have been shaved down and 150+- bungs replaced. The seam shaving revealed a couple of spots where the caulk had separated from the sides but overall I have been very surprised (and relieved) on the quality of the seams. Also relieved that I have found no evidence of soft spots or water intrusion in the core. I drilled down to the core in the spot where the plank end lifted and it was dry. Next step is to lightly sand the seams and bring down some of the ridges in the planks where possible and without going crazy. There are two other planks that need replacing due to very excessive wear but will deal with those later.
Now for my question, I had some tear out while drilling two bung replacements. What is the proper way to deal with fixing? Epoxy and Teak dust seems like a bad idea as it will not wear down with the Teak. Titebond and saw dust? How has this been dealt with in the past? Just deal with the epoxy as it becomes an issue over time?
How bad of a tear out? Can you do a larger bung?
Use a 1/2 inch bung as suggested above. To eliminate tear out when drilling, run the drill in reverse for a second and then switch back to drill the hole. Save the old teak and get your self a set of bung plug cutters. They should come as standard equipment with a GB. Lol.
Chinese ones will do https://www.harborfreight.com/plug-...9R63LAS7ypemJTGc_drwWIr9tegwfv4caAhlsEALw_wcB