Sounder installation issues

I have a sounder/chart plotter that died on my flybridge. I have a replacement ready to install. The installation will require the sounder cable to pass through bulkheads, on the dash, on the floor, on the dash below, before arriving in the bilge where T-ducers live. The holes I will need to cut to allow the connector fitting to pass through those bulkheads will need to exceed the size of the connector by the diameter of the other 3 cables that already pass that way. With the connector on this unit being significantly larger than the connector on the previous unit, the old hole will not suffice.
Does anyone know whether the sounder cable can be cut and spliced? That would make the holes that already exist adequate.

I have cut Raymarine (Airmar) transducer cables. They make a connector block to reconnect the wires. Don’t remember the part number or exact name. Cost around $50 or so. But my new transducers say don’t cut them. I would contact the manufacturer and see if it is possible or not.

Thanks Dave. If I could identify the TDs used by Humminbird and Lowrance as both Airmar, I could simply change the end and re-use the Hummer on the Low. Hmmmm. Naa that would make too much sense.
Too late to get anyone on the phone, except the cleaning help, till Monday, so watch this space then.

Is there room to simply drill another hole alongside? Cutting cables and splicing is usually very delicate. I've used a step drill to accomplish something similar, ends up easier and cleaner. Just a thought.

Awkward, unsightly, but unless I find an easier way, what I will ultimately need to do. And there are three levels to drill through.

The terminal block I used for the Airmar transducer was really simple to do. Cut and strip the wires and stick them into the terminal strip and tighten the screws. As long as you kept the colors straight you almost couldn’t go wrong.

How many wires are in the cable? If it's set up for NEMA 2000 wouldn't there be a bunch?

Xfirepop said:

How many wires are in the cable? If it's set up for NEMA 2000 wouldn't there be a bunch?

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Ha
No way I am cutting into this cable till I know for sure! I am planning to call Lowrance on Monday. The connector has a bunch of pins.

Mine was a regular transducer and if I recall it had about 8 wires or so.

koliver said:

Ha
No way I am cutting into this cable till I know for sure! I am planning to call Lowrance on Monday. The connector has a bunch of pins.

Click to expand...

a careful cut along the sleeve casing only to see what is in there?

unless its a triducer and maybe even then, airmar makes an inline splice connector so if your existing transducer is the same frequency as your new sounder you can just swap the old connector with the new and you don't have to pull any cable at all.....https://www.thegpsstore.com/Marine-...s/Airmar-6-Conductor-In-Line-Splice-Connector

If you can get to the bulkheads use a deemed and make a keyhole out of the existing holes. So the fitting can pass through

jleonard said:

If you can get to the bulkheads use a deemed and make a keyhole out of the existing holes. So the fitting can pass through

Click to expand...

dremel? with steady hand, but if you nick an existing wire, ouch.

Ka_sea_ta said:

unless its a triducer and maybe even then, airmar makes an inline splice connector so if your existing transducer is the same frequency as your new sounder you can just swap the old connector with the new and you don't have to pull any cable at all.....https://www.thegpsstore.com/Marine-...s/Airmar-6-Conductor-In-Line-Splice-Connector

Click to expand...

Very helpful, thanks Ka_sea_ta

Solution 1: Try the old transducer.


Solution 2: I assume that the cable has a connector on one end and goes into the display on the other. Open the display and see how the cable connects. If you are careful with a soldering iron, you can probably disconnect the cable at that end. Take pix and make notes so you get the wires back in the right place. This will probably void the warranty.


Solution 3: Same assumption. Instead of cutting the cable, see if you can remove the connector. Same warning.


Jim

Circumnavigator said:

Solution 1: Try the old transducer.


Solution 2: I assume that the cable has a connector on one end and goes into the display on the other. Open the display and see how the cable connects. If you are careful with a soldering iron, you can probably disconnect the cable at that end. Take pix and make notes so you get the wires back in the right place. This will probably void the warranty.


Solution 3: Same assumption. Instead of cutting the cable, see if you can remove the connector. Same warning.


Jim

Click to expand...

1. The old TD is a different brand, with its own proprietary connector and no way to know what their colour codes are, so no, I am not able to try the old one.
2 & 3. No, I won't be voiding the warranty.

I have drilled the holes. 1" Forstner bit did the trick, though pushing down through 2" of FG into 1" of plywood... no , wait, the length of the bit wasn't enough, so I had to get a 1" spade bit to finish, and that caused a lot of chipping on the bottom layer of finish plywood inside the valance above the helm. Not very elegant, but it worked.
Related issue, the cable on the TD was only 6" longer than the bare minimum to stretch from the bilge to the fly dash.

Transducer cables can be spliced. Soldering is best, but a terminal strip, butt splices or even just twisting together securely works. An existing cable in good condition can be used, with a good splice at each end. A basic transducer uses one shielded pair of wires. Dual frequency may have one or two pairs. Other wires are used for options like temperature and speed. You can find wiring and connector info for all Airmar transducers in their online cross reference.

koliver said:

1. The old TD is a different brand, with its own proprietary connector and no way to know what their colour codes are, so no, I am not able to try the old one.
2 & 3. No, I won't be voiding the warranty.

I have drilled the holes. 1" Forstner bit did the trick, though pushing down through 2" of FG into 1" of plywood... no , wait, the length of the bit wasn't enough, so I had to get a 1" spade bit to finish, and that caused a lot of chipping on the bottom layer of finish plywood inside the valance above the helm. Not very elegant, but it worked.
Related issue, the cable on the TD was only 6" longer than the bare minimum to stretch from the bilge to the fly dash.

Click to expand...

If you clamp a scrap of wood on the finish side when the spade bit cuts through the finish plywood it won’t chip out around the hole edge.

Comodave said:

If you clamp a scrap of wood on the finish side when the spade bit cuts through the finish plywood it won’t chip out around the hole edge.

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If only.
This is up inside the valance, so no opportunity to mitigate the damage. repair is much easier there than prevention.
Besides which, it is all over but the crying.

Use and oscillating tool to make the holes larger. Easy to control and get into tight spaces to make those keyholes as mentioned above