Raritan 20 gallon Water Heater Question

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floatingmick

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Hey all, having problems with what I assume is a relatively new Raritan 1700 water heater. I apparently have a short, the 110 breaker pops the minute I turn it on. My assumption is that the most likely failure point is the coil and I was going to order a replacement coil. Is there anything else I should be thinking about before I order the replacement? Thanks!
 
A friend of mine had a short in the wires inside his Raritan water heater. Maybe check the wiring before you order parts.
 
floatingmick said:
Hey all, having problems with what I assume is a relatively new Raritan 1700 water heater. I apparently have a short, the 110 breaker pops the minute I turn it on. My assumption is that the most likely failure point is the coil and I was going to order a replacement coil. Is there anything else I should be thinking about before I order the replacement? Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you're handy with a milti meter, it's pretty easy to isolate the problem. You might want to start by checking the wattage of the heating element and the amperage of the breaker. You might inadvertently have a higher wattage element than the breaker can handle.

Ted
 
Electrical is by far my weakest point, figured a relatively low investment for the heating element, unless it was futile to do so. Thanks!
 
It's very possible the wires are abraded where they go into the heater. If the hot (black) shorts to the case that would trip the breaker. If you have enough length you can simply cut back to good wire and reattach. Use crimp on terminals.
Or the insulation on the heating coil has gone bad, that will do the same thing. Pretty sure it's a standard coil you can get at any hardware store.
 
I have the same water heater. If you have turned the heater on without water in it, even for a brief minute or so, you will ruin the element. Ask me how I know. However the result at least in my case, was an open circuit at the element (0 Ohms) so the circuit breaker did not trip. As mentioned above you might want to look for a short circuit in the wiring leading up to it. Also it would be a good idea to check / replace the anode while you are in there. I have the manual. PM me with an email address if you need it.
 
Last edited:
Cigatoo said:
I have the same water heater. If you have turned the heater on without water in it, even for a brief minute or so, you will ruin the element. Ask me how I know. However the result at least in my case, was an open circuit at the element (0 Ohms) so the circuit breaker did not trip. As mentioned above you might want to look for a short circuit in the wiring leading up to it. Also it would be a good idea to check / replace the anode while you are in there. I have the manual. PM me with an email address if you need it.
Click to expand...
I appreciate it, I'll order the anode too.
 
floatingmick said:
Electrical is by far my weakest point, figured a relatively low investment for the heating element, unless it was futile to do so. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have so many weaknesses. I recommend changing out the breaker first.
The name plate should provide you LOTS if information so you know what to expect when using your multi-meter.
 
Cigatoo said:
I have the same water heater. If you have turned the heater on without water in it, even for a brief minute or so, you will ruin the element. Ask me how I know. However the result at least in my case, was an open circuit at the element (0 Ohms) so the circuit breaker did not trip. As mentioned above you might want to look for a short circuit in the wiring leading up to it. Also it would be a good idea to check / replace the anode while you are in there. I have the manual. PM me with an email address if you need it.
Click to expand...

On a previous boat when we bought it the water heater was empty and turned on for months before we bought it. I could hear a sizzling sound in the engine room and it went away when I turned off the water heater. The PO left it on and emptied the water system. I assumed that I would have to replace the element but it was still going strong when we sold the boat 8 years later. Strange.
 
Check the anode while your inspecting. VERY long zinc that goes in the tank...
 
It’s about 16 inches long! Very surprised when I went to change mine out…
 
yes, it's magnesium. I was using "zinc" as a generic term...

Anodes for 1700 Series Water Heaters
1700 Series Water Heater Anodes, Anode For 12 & 20 gal.

SKU: 66190 Item ID: RAR 1790010
Replacement anode
Magnesium
6, 12 or 20 gallon models
 
O C Diver said:
If you're handy with a milti meter, it's pretty easy to isolate the problem. You might want to start by checking the wattage of the heating element and the amperage of the breaker. You might inadvertently have a higher wattage element than the breaker can handle.

Ted
Click to expand...

Yes, incompatible breaker capacity with the load requirements gets my vote. I recently replaced a rusted out Raritan 12 gallon with a 1700 series 20 gallon. I ran it thru the original breaker without a problem. You also might want to contact Raritan customer service. They're very helpful and will be able to direct you troubleshooting the unit itself.

Tak
 
20 gal Raritan water heater

The reason that I buy Raritan products is the unparallel support that they provide.

Call the company and talk to 1 of their techs on the issues. They will probably be able to remove some of the guesswork you will get here.

You got to support a company that you send an email to point out their short comings and they respond with admitting them, acknowledging that they are working on changes and have a senior support person call you on a Saturday.

IF I need it and Raritan sells it, that is who I buy.

Good luck.
 
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