Reality Check on new fuel tanks

I know the price of everything is outrageous but just want to make sure these numbers are real. Aluminum fuel tanks, 70 gallons each, aprx. 36"X30"X15", I was quoted 1,550.00 each. I need two, is that reasonable? It's from a fab shop that does fuel tanks.

Several years ago I was quoted about $2,100 for 210 gallon aluminum tanks certified for marine use.

Fab is always going to be more than stock.

that's about right

Seems to be in range. I was quoted 1800 for similar size.

Thanks guy's, reality sucks!

Have you looked at plastic tanks?

I priced out tanks a couple of years ago. That's about what I'd expect to pay.

For a lot of folks it's getting them in and out that takes the big bucks.

Agree on the labor. Make sure that whoever makes the tank certifies it as meeting the marine standards.

I doubt that you'll do any better on price. I had one made for a different boat by specialty tank shop. Mine was marked as being pressure tested up to a certain psi and also had a USCG Approved decal on it.

The 1,550.00 is for the tank only I'm doing the work myself, no labor cost, so parts alone a little north of 3,100.00 for two tanks. Looking at the plastic tank idea sent specs to Moeller Marine see what they say. I'm pretty sure these are all marine certified tanks as that's what they advertise.

I recall about $1000 each for a pair of 165 gallon tanks. This was about 28 years ago.

When I was in the business good tank fab shops were getting 9- $12.00 a gallon for 5000 series aluminum tanks. For tanks of that size I would look to hot welded poly/plastic tanks and forget about electrolytic, poultice or corrosion pitting in general. The poly tank guys have come a long way and make really rugged dependable tanks in smaller sizes.

Anyway your pricing is good and if the shop is the same you’ll be fine. A couple of things I would suggest. One, a photo of the baffles before they close the tanks up and make sure they have the ‘ Certified ‘ blue sticker indicating material and pressure testing. This is absolutely required. And certainly land them with good chafe protection on the base and all framing members as alum is soft. If you use brass fittings insure they are insulated from metal to metal contact as galvanic corrosion is a big factor. They should also give your a proper ground wire tab

Rick

Make sure the install is done properly so your new tanks will last. I think Steve D has an article on his website about how to do it correctly.

Had tanks ,200 gallons each , made for my Jefferson 45 several years, 10+ and paid $ 3500.00 for both . Put them in myself and a few friends that I gave fuel to. After several years one got another leak . After removing tank again ,leak was at weld that was a start / stop weld . They were certified and pressure tested before install . Check all weld areas for a start / stop weld as that may leak down the road . Learned that when welding alum ,you can not have a long weld time as metal heats up and weakens metal ,so you stop and start at another point ,then come back to complete weld . Just my $ .02

Google steved fuel tank installation and it will bring up an excellent article on how to do a proper installation.

Thanks everyone for the all the information. Here's what I've gotten so far on the people I've contacted for two replacement fuel tanks,
vendor 1. 3,100.00 aluminum, 3 weeks out
vendor 2. 1,400.00 for two pvc tanks, end of October is the expected delivery, but don't count on it
vendor 3. 1,400.00 for two aluminum tanks 1 month out
Big difference between 1 and 2, less than half, all say they are USCG certified.

Are you sure the tanks are PVC?

otis maximus said:

Thanks everyone for the all the information. Here's what I've gotten so far on the people I've contacted for two replacement fuel tanks,

vendor 1. 3,100.00 aluminum, 3 weeks out

vendor 2. 1,400.00 for two pvc tanks, end of October is the expected delivery, but don't count on it

vendor 3. 1,400.00 for two aluminum tanks 1 month out

Big difference between 1 and 2, less than half, all say they are USCG certified.

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$3100 vs $1400 for the same [aluminum] tanks is a huge spread. Something is wrong. One includes fittings, the other doesn't, who knows. But the spread is too great for apples/apples comparison. Something is missing.

Good luck.

Peter

Assuming these tanks are for your SeaSport. I had a SeaSport 24, and when I had the deck boards off, the tanks were labeled as being made by Coastline Equipment in Bellingham. https://coastlinemarinetanks.com/

If they still have the original jigs and/or specs, it may save you some set up costs under the assumption that SeaSport used the same tank vendor for your Navigator as they used for my 24 Explorer.

Moeller

I installed a 150g moeller which was $900 delivered to my marina. I have one more to go but bought some time and cut inspection ports on the side of the other tank and pour coated the bottom. It wasn't leaking. It did have signs of pitting (aluminum tank). Will check next year to see how the coating held up.

JosieWhales said:

I installed a 150g moeller which was $900 delivered to my marina. I have one more to go but bought some time and cut inspection ports on the side of the other tank and pour coated the bottom. It wasn't leaking. It did have signs of pitting (aluminum tank). Will check next year to see how the coating held up.

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What coating did you use?

John

I am having the two, 49 gallon aluminum tanks replaced on the starboard side of my GB 32 (no, they're not original) at Kent Narrows Yacht Yard, a place I trust. The fabricator charged $1100 each, which is apparently the going price here in the mid-Chesapeake.

Ouch.

-- Tom

I paid $7,500 to remove my 265 gallon tank. Build and install 4 segment tanks now totaling 235 gallons in 2018.

RickyD said:

I paid $7,500 to remove my 265 gallon tank. Build and install 4 segment tanks now totaling 235 gallons in 2018.

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It was a big job as the tank went under the master bed. Then under the middle state room. Long and narrow.

Those of you with Taiwanese trawlers with typical poorly built and leaking tanks should think seriously about your replacement strategy. Shopping for the lowest bidder for a tank that represents way less than the labor for interference removals and restoration is to my thinking very short sighted and false economy. Almost any sheet metal shop with a mig welder can undercut a legitimate tank builder but then you’ll get what you paid for. Poorly designed baffles or almost none. Baffles with a few tack welds. No doublers or fitting pads at fills, feeds and returns. Lack of grounding tabs and sharp corners with no radius. Etc. etc.. Then the question of what series of plate ? Think about it would you buy your anchor chain from Harbor Freight ?

johnrupp said:

What coating did you use?

John

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Por15 tank sealer

Comodave said:

Agree on the labor. Make sure that whoever makes the tank certifies it as meeting the marine standards.

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I think 5053 AL is required and the min thickness is .250 for certification to charter and .191 is the standard otherwise. My knowledge is old just check up on recent standards and be sure the mfr is complying. ABYC H-24/gas H33 diesel.

JosieWhales said:

Por15 tank sealer

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Thanks.

John