Fridges

Looking at replacing my Engel SR90E fridge which is 12v/240v. Would welcome thoughts on best marine fridge and why I would need the 240v facility as opposed to just getting 12v.

For context cruising the Mediterranean at the moment and very hot.

Why marine?
Fridge doesn't know what it's in.

I'll always advocate for an off the shelf house fridge
Money saved on unit pays for inverter and extra batteries which, can improve life dramatically if using your boat a lot.

I just purchased a 45L Alpicool off Amazon for $300 USD. A few folks at CruisersForum recommended the brand. The plastic latch-handle is a bit flimsy, but it does chill quickly. Seems to hold -4F well, but have not had it in intense heat.

https://a.co/d/0JOcXbF

Thinking about it, the handle is the Achilles Heel. I would seek out something with a more simple latch such as the rubber t-handles on Yetis.

Here is an example of a design I would go with, but no idea on quality of this brand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DV1J9L5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_BDVW7ZNKEVZ54AXTB1J5?psc=1

Good luck.

Peter

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/my-new-apartment-refrigerator-41392.html

Ted

There is usually a big difference in DC power consumption between a 12V Danfoss compressor fridge and a big box, non Energy Star rated AC compressor fridge running off of an inverter. From what I have seen the AC compressor fridge will draw twice the average power as the Danfoss unit.

But if power doesn't matter, ie you have a big battery bank and inverter with lots of solar or you run your generator every day to keep the batteries up, the residential fridge is a fraction of the price of the 12V Danfoss compressor fridge.

David

DavidM said:

There is usually a big difference in DC power consumption between a 12V Danfoss compressor fridge and a big box, non Energy Star rated AC compressor fridge running off of an inverter. From what I have seen the AC compressor fridge will draw twice the average power as the Danfoss unit.

But if power doesn't matter, ie you have a big battery bank and inverter with lots of solar or you run your generator every day to keep the batteries up, the residential fridge is a fraction of the price of the 12V Danfoss compressor fridge.

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There are Energy Star-rated home units, of course.

Frost-free might be a useful attribute that's available on AC fridges. Haven't ever seen that on an AC/DC "marine" fridge.

-Chris

DavidM said:

There is usually a big difference in DC power consumption between a 12V Danfoss compressor fridge and a big box, non Energy Star rated AC compressor fridge running off of an inverter. From what I have seen the AC compressor fridge will draw twice the average power as the Danfoss unit.

But if power doesn't matter, ie you have a big battery bank and inverter with lots of solar or you run your generator every day to keep the batteries up, the residential fridge is a fraction of the price of the 12V Danfoss compressor fridge.

David

Click to expand...

In the USA, I don't think you can sell a refrigerator anymore without the Energy rating. My experience with my apartment refrigerator verses the Norcold leads me to believe that while an efficient compressor system is important, the box insulation is probably more important. Most RV / marine refrigerators have crap insulation. That's why my apartment unit on the inverter does so much better.

Ted

Chartwell said:

Looking at replacing my Engel SR90E fridge which is 12v/240v. Would welcome thoughts on best marine fridge and why I would need the 240v facility as opposed to just getting 12v.



For context cruising the Mediterranean at the moment and very hot.

Click to expand...

One issue to consider which few ever think about is how home-use fridges dissipate heat. Many use their metal skins, side and/or tops, to expel heat. If your fridge is fit into a tight space, it will have little ability to rid itself of heat thereby causing the unit to run far more than designed. Remember that the "energy guide" sticker is calculated under test conditions which do not include marine applications where fridges are often stuffed into spaces with poor air flow. Marine fridges have their compressors and cooling coils in the rear affording much better heat transmission.

When I removed our two home-use fridges for some reason the sides of the home-use fridges were almost two hot to touch. I replaced them with Vitrofrigo. The first picture is of the new fridges. Notice the space underneath that allows air flow to the back section of the cabinet. The second picture show the old units with a large vent on the upper side. The other side has the same vent. Those vents, with the Vitrifrigo units have computer muffin fans that operate when the fridges operate. Even in the hottest weather, we cannot crank down to the lowest setting without freezing some things at the back of the fridges.

By the way, the old units were in a cabinet with good ventilation, bottom and back. Think carefully boys and girls.

At lot of good points made here, I would like to point out the obvious but seemingly overlooked temperature of the cabin, particularly if you don't run the air conditioner when you are away from the boat. You shouldn't expect great refrigerator performance if the cabin is hotter than a human can stand yet a lot of people seal up their boats unattended with no AC, inadequate ventilation and the poor fridge struggling to pump the same heat back out into a ever hotter cabin. If you really want a system that can do this, best to use a cold plate setup with a thru hull heat sink go expell the heat out of the boat.

ranger58sb said:

There are Energy Star-rated home units, of course.

Frost-free might be a useful attribute that's available on AC fridges. Haven't ever seen that on an AC/DC "marine" fridge.

-Chris

Click to expand...

Frost free usually is not available on Danfoss compressor marine fridges because the heating element that melts the frost consumes a lot of energy.

David

We just put in an Isotherm refer that works extremely well. It was the only one that would fit in through the door. We can’t turn it all the way up or else it will freeze things in the fridge section. With the doors off it is only 20.5” deep which was critical for us to get it in. I had to cut the old one up to get it out the door.

DavidM said:

There is usually a big difference in DC power consumption between a 12V Danfoss compressor fridge and a big box, non Energy Star rated AC compressor fridge running off of an inverter. From what I have seen the AC compressor fridge will draw twice the average power as the Danfoss unit.

But if power doesn't matter, ie you have a big battery bank and inverter with lots of solar or you run your generator every day to keep the batteries up, the residential fridge is a fraction of the price of the 12V Danfoss compressor fridge.

David

Click to expand...

I converted a 11 cu ft household fridge to Danfoss, 12 volt only. I also had a custom 6 cu ft freezer built with a Danfoss compressor and 4" insulation after previously using a household freezer. Both of the HH units were run from an inverter while off shorepower. I don't have numbers but my ah usage while on the hook was hugely reduced, to the point of being covered by 700 watts of solar panels where before I'd need 3 hours of daily genset. Whether the most efficient current household appliances are the best way to go in view of cost, I couldn't say. But I'm very happy with my Danfoss 12 volt only set-up even though the cost is significantly higher.

O C Diver said:

In the USA, I don't think you can sell a refrigerator anymore without the Energy rating. My experience with my apartment refrigerator verses the Norcold leads me to believe that while an efficient compressor system is important, the box insulation is probably more important. Most RV / marine refrigerators have crap insulation. That's why my apartment unit on the inverter does so much better.

Ted

Click to expand...

Worth repeating.

Also be interesting to work it out on a power usage and cost/cubic ft or meter of refrigeration.

I bet the off the shelf house fridge looks even better again

We have two apartment size fridges and they will kill two 8D batteries overnight. Both are energy star.

On the other boat, we have a norcold,under counter and a danfoss run fridge unit operating an insulated wet locker.

They together get through the night on one 8D, don't know if the difference is the insulation or the cooling unit. Converted them both to an electronic control I found for 15 dollars on amazon or ebay, gives much better control.

Sleeping Bear said:

We have two apartment size fridges and they will kill two 8D batteries overnight. Both are energy star.

On the other boat, we have a norcold,under counter and a danfoss run fridge unit operating an insulated wet locker.

They together get through the night on one 8D, don't know if the difference is the insulation or the cooling unit. Converted them both to an electronic control I found for 15 dollars on amazon or ebay, gives much better control.

Click to expand...

Not a criticism, but pretty hard to compare stuff without actual numbers.

My unit is a 10 cuft. refrigerator freezer with a consumption rate of less than 1 killowatt per day.

The rare guest on my boat gets crucified for inventorying my refrigerator as opposed to opening the door, grabbing what you want, and closing the G** D *** door.

Don't know what your 8D battery is, but running 2 refrigerators off of one is probably asking too much.

Ted

Another issue

We have a Dometic 12v/110 that works well. It seems to cool better on AC, but not that much. We were recently on a 5 night cruise, and our Magnum inverter went out. If we didn’t have the 12 v option, we would have to have shortened our cruise. Just a thought.

Rigtyme said:

We have a Dometic 12v/110 that works well. It seems to cool better on AC, but not that much. We were recently on a 5 night cruise, and our Magnum inverter went out. If we didn’t have the 12 v option, we would have to have shortened our cruise. Just a thought.

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I had considered that when I originally installed my refrigerator. My solution was to run the generator, but second choice was to have a backup inverter. A 300 to 500 watt inverter (<$100) would do the job nicely.

Ted

Propnut said:

View attachment 131221

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Summit Refrigerator
Frost free
120 volt
Ice maker
Very energy efficient

Propnut said:

Summit Refrigerator
Frost free
120 volt
Ice maker
Very energy efficient

Click to expand...

Ted

Sleeping Bear said:

We have two apartment size fridges and they will kill two 8D batteries overnight. Both are energy star.

On the other boat, we have a norcold,under counter and a danfoss run fridge unit operating an insulated wet locker.

They together get through the night on one 8D, don't know if the difference is the insulation or the cooling unit. Converted them both to an electronic control I found for 15 dollars on amazon or ebay, gives much better control.

Click to expand...

You don't say how you make AC.
Danfoss DC fridges use little power, definitely less than an 8D a night.
How much of your nightly consumption is just to have the Inverter turned on? I looked at mine today, 7amps just to run the inverter, then turn on some AC loads. 7 amps overnight is 70 amphrs. An 8D is what, 250? draw to 1/2, so 125, more than 1/2 of that just to choose AC, then take the amt used by the fridge, For sure lots more than just a Danfoss at 3 amps, running less than 1/2 time.

O C Diver said:

I had considered that when I originally installed my refrigerator. My solution was to run the generator, but second choice was to have a backup inverter. A 300 to 500 watt inverter (<$100) would do the job nicely.

Ted

Click to expand...

Yep, Giandel do one that is often recommended on a diy solar forum.
3000w one to run everything aboard ours are about $400.

I’ve had three different kinds of marine refrigerators in different boats. I was tired of defrosting .
The Summit Refrigerator is well insulated, frost free, and has an ice makes that works very well. 6 Trojan batteries powering a 3000 watt inverter runs the unit overnight drawing the batteries down to about 65%. Recharge underway or fire up the generator to charge the batteries back up. Ice cream is hard, beer is cold. Works well for us.

Chartwell said:

Looking at replacing my Engel SR90E fridge which is 12v/240v.....

Click to expand...

Why? You don't mention what problem you are trying to solve. Engels typically have bullet proof reliability so are you chasing larger volume?

I've gone with a inverter residential model but I have a lot of inverter, solar and battery capacity. Cheap per unit volume, low draw when just maintaining temp, high output when required to cool/freeze room temp food, Admiral advised that top opening was not a consideration.

Good luck.

Ignore - Subscribing to Thread

Fridge

Thank you for all the information to help me with fridge choices. Still not sure as to my decision but it will be better informed.

Regards Fred

One thing I've noticed in our 40 years in the cruising world is there's always somone heading back in and asking for refrigeration trades to look at their fridge.

Costs them possibly lost contents
A trip in
A marina berth
A visit from a tradie and associated work
Replacement of list food
And a trip back out to continue the adventure.
.
Always seems to be 12v fridges involved

Have yet to have an issue with 240v household fridge freezers
Never heard of any other vessel with them having issues.
And if we did, replacing it with a brand new one would likely work out cheaper than getting someone out to fix it.

The previous boat we were building I was dreading the huge outlay for a decent sized 12v fridge freezer setup for long term cruising.
Having this vessel with 240v already installed has been a real eye opener and game changer - everything is so much cheaper, more choices and reliable.