Cost to overhaul Ford Lehman 120 HP?

I will certainly do that, but will be a while, as stated, work interferes with the hobby and my work takes me out of the country. Once done, I will post it for sure!

FWIW, I have had two FL 120's rebuilt. Different reasons for each engine, though one was the number 6 cylinder issue that Bruce alluded to. Each rebuild ran into the low $20k's.

What I did on each occasion though was with the engines out I sent the gearbox's off to be overhauled. It is quite cheap once the engine is out to do this, and in all probability it may not have been needed. Still when they are reaching 30 odd years of age a little TLC is a good thing.

Speaking of velvet drive gearboxes, I was advised that for either the port or starboard box, parts are no longer available, sorry can't remember which one. Anyone heard of this?

Rebuild

Picked up a 38' 2 years ago with a 120 in it. I've been wondering when my rebuild is coming.?
Stuck thermostat led to a blown coolant line to the expansion tank (keel cooled). Flushed the system and new thermo, everything seems fine. They really are simple engines. I've been thinking of sourcing out a block and parts to make a spare. Would be a cool learning experience.
After reading this awesome thread, I may be changing my tune?

Andy G said:

Speaking of velvet drive gearboxes, I was advised that for either the port or starboard box, parts are no longer available, sorry can't remember which one. Anyone heard of this?

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All parts required for typical rebuild are available anywhere. e.g. clutch disks, seals, gasket sets, bearings, hyd pumps. Some parts are no longer in production. CR2 control valves are no longer made but the pistons are available so they can be easily rebuilt. Gears might be hard to source, esp pinion gears, but they rarely need replacement.

120 Lehman valve adjustment or?

Hi! Not a mechanic and need advice. Not mechanics where I am. On our trip in from Prince William Sound I experienced a severe vibration. It sounds like chain sliding in the locker but unfortunately wasn’t. At about 17 hundred rpms it was in and out for short periods. Upon slowing it decreases in frequency. Could this be valve adjustment or clatter? I’ve never adjusted the Valves. Or should I look for shaft noise? Shaft bearing going out? It sure sounds like upper engine noise. No decrease in rpm or speed or power. I know this is vague. Going back to do more inspections today. 1982 Chb and single 120 Lehman. Thanks from Alaska.

Check to see if you can hear about where it is coming from.



If you can hear it back near the bellhousing, might be a dampner plate...especially if all else seems normal.

Thought I was on a different thread.

Ford Lehman Tools

I recently bought a President 37 with 2 Lehman 120s and a Westerbeke genny which currently sits on the hard in the Bahamas. I need to take tools and parts with me from Florida to prepare it for the trip to the states. I am purchasing a set of tools for the boat. Which size tools are required to work on these engines? SAE? Or metric?

SAE for the Lehmans.

dieseldan said:

I recently bought a President 37 with 2 Lehman 120s and a Westerbeke genny which currently sits on the hard in the Bahamas. I need to take tools and parts with me from Florida to prepare it for the trip to the states. I am purchasing a set of tools for the boat. Which size tools are required to work on these engines? SAE? Or metric?

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Welcome aboard and congrats on your new boat. The Lehmans are mostly SAE but there are a couple of metric things on them. I have posted the recommended tools on TF. I just looked and I don’t have the list on my computer anymore but you can search TF to find it. Sometimes Google search works better than the TF search.

Here is the list.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65054&d=1495555351

What is your reason for rebuilding? The price today will not be the same 2 years from now.

Start by boiling out the engine and see if the temp is better

dieseldan said:

I recently bought a President 37 with 2 Lehman 120s and a Westerbeke genny which currently sits on the hard in the Bahamas. I need to take tools and parts with me from Florida to prepare it for the trip to the states. I am purchasing a set of tools for the boat. Which size tools are required to work on these engines? SAE? Or metric?

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SAE, but it depends upon how long the engines have been sitting. If the engines started during a pre-purchase survey you are in good shape. Change the fuel filters and go. Bring extra filters and extra impellers.

If the engines have not been run, then things become more complex. You have the engines, transmissions, and packing glands to check. Biggest issue is corrosion of oil coolers and heat exchanger and cracked hoses. Lehman's are simple and easy to work on. Change the filters, bleed lines, and they usually run. I would replace the impellers due to their critical function. Carry an extra fan belt. Download a repair manual just in case.

Transmissions should be OK. If oil is frothy and milky, then you have a bad cooler. Easy replacement, just need lots of fluid to clean out contaminated fluid.

Packing glands may be dried out. You will need 2 packing gland wrenches to replace or tighten.

You should be able to maintain engines with a set of wrenches, a set of screwdrivers, med pair of vice grips, med adjustable wrench, and an ohmmeter. An IR thermal gun is handy to check engine block temps.

Run the boat hard for a day before crossing and any problems will quickly become apparent.

If you need parts call Brian at American Diesel.

[QUOTE Carry an extra fan belt.][/QUOTE]

A note on changing the alternator belt (fan belt):
Unless it has been modified, you will have to remove a coolant hose to replace the belt. (yes, a crappy design). About 1/2 the coolant will spill out.
Sometimes a wily owner will "pre-assemble" a belt by putting a spare around the coolant hose and tie it out of the way with a zip tie (or equivalent). In that case you won't have to dump the coolant (but it might be an old belt that sat around for a few years).

You can replace the lost coolant with water to get back to the states if need be.

Just wanted to make you aware of one of the Lehman quirks.

Best of luck on your journey.

jleonard said:

[QUOTE Carry an extra fan belt.]

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A note on changing the alternator belt (fan belt):
Unless it has been modified, you will have to remove a coolant hose to replace the belt. (yes, a crappy design). About 1/2 the coolant will spill out.
Sometimes a wily owner will "pre-assemble" a belt by putting a spare around the coolant hose and tie it out of the way with a zip tie (or equivalent). In that case you won't have to dump the coolant (but it might be an old belt that sat around for a few years).

You can replace the lost coolant with water to get back to the states if need be.

Just wanted to make you aware of one of the Lehman quirks.

Best of luck on your journey.[/QUOTE]

That is an excellent idea. I read an article about a guy that broke a belt on a Lehman and went to remove the hose I think and got scalded so badly they had to medivac him out. Having a replacement belt in place would have been invaluable.

That is an excellent idea. I read an article about a guy that broke a belt on a Lehman and went to remove the hose I think and got scalded so badly they had to medivac him out. Having a replacement belt in place would have been invaluable.[/QUOTE]

I can't take credit for the idea (but I'll take credit for remembering it).

jleonard said:

That is an excellent idea. I read an article about a guy that broke a belt on a Lehman and went to remove the hose I think and got scalded so badly they had to medivac him out. Having a replacement belt in place would have been invaluable.

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I can't take credit for the idea (but I'll take credit for remembering it). [/QUOTE]

That is how I get most of my ideas…

jleonard said:

[QUOTE Carry an extra fan belt.]

Click to expand...

A note on changing the alternator belt (fan belt):

Unless it has been modified, you will have to remove a coolant hose to replace the belt. (yes, a crappy design). About 1/2 the coolant will spill out.

Sometimes a wily owner will "pre-assemble" a belt by putting a spare around the coolant hose and tie it out of the way with a zip tie (or equivalent). In that case you won't have to dump the coolant (but it might be an old belt that sat around for a few years).



You can replace the lost coolant with water to get back to the states if need be.



Just wanted to make you aware of one of the Lehman quirks.



Best of luck on your journey.[/QUOTE]With a 5-gallon bucket and a length of clear plastic tubing, the belt can be changed with virtually no loss of coolant assuming the engines have a drain petcock - mine do - with a smooth extension to accept the tubing. Run the tubing to the bucket and open the coolant tank cap. The block will drain by gravity such that the tank will empty quite quickly. When it is empty, close the petcock. You will be able to remove the hose with just few ounces, if any, of coolant lost.

The nice thing about putting 2 on when one breaks is that you are able to get underway quickly if the belt on the engine breaks. It could be important or maybe not, depends.

This post should be a sticky
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1060984&postcount=13

Just for your info.
The Ford engines are still being built in Turkey and you can import a brand new engine from there quite cheap and get it marinized.
There's company in England called Lancing Marine who specialize in all things Ford marine, from new engines, to mods for cutting down the smoke on start up and all marinizing parts.
BUT CAVEAT EMPTOR..... Check around for all the info and only buy off them if you can't get it elsewhere, their kit is excellent but the owners is greedy for money, just beware and DON'T GET RIPPED OFF.
I got stung very badly so please beware, only deal if it suits you.
A note on Ford engines, always keep anti freeze all year round, even in the Bahamas as the additives in the anti freeze keep the liner seals supple, the water pump lubricated and galleries clean.

I am not sure if you can import a new engine that doesn’t meet the EPA standards. Maybe but I would do a lot of research before I made any decision.

Comodave said:

I am not sure if you can import a new engine that doesn’t meet the EPA standards. Maybe but I would do a lot of research before I made any decision.

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You have EPA standards for marine use engines. Always learning something new.

If you want cheap overhaul kits from the OE manufacturers go to www,parts4engines.com I use them all the time for Perkins OE parts.

As for importing engines I don't know of anyone here ever having their engine checked for EYA or any other tests.

2 friends of mine have both imported the Turkish built Ford engines and bought the marinizing parts and fitted them and they sing their praises.

Soo-Valley said:

You have EPA standards for marine use engines. Always learning something new.

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I am not sure how it works exactly but I would make sure before I bought a new engine that doesn’t meet the requirements.

I asked because if there is EPA involvement there would eventually be no rebuilding without bringing to EPA specs. It will start in California IMO

Soo-Valley said:

I asked because if there is EPA involvement there would eventually be no rebuilding without bringing to EPA specs. It will start in California IMO

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That is beyond my pay grade.

Irish Rambler said:

If you want cheap overhaul kits from the OE manufacturers go to www,parts4engines.com I use them all the time for Perkins OE parts.

As for importing engines I don't know of anyone here ever having their engine checked for EYA or any other tests.

2 friends of mine have both imported the Turkish built Ford engines and bought the marinizing parts and fitted them and they sing their praises.

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My recall of TF posts is that exhaust manifolds are not available, at least from ADC.

Thanks to all for your responses.