Racor Filter Question-

Hello,

I replaced this filter yesterday for our Genset and about an hour or so later it started leaking from the large header bolt on top. This is a Racor Model 120RMAN filter assembly (which I found the spec sheet for). I didn't have to remove the header bolt on the bracket housing in order to spin on & off the filter however it now surprisingly leaks. Guess I pinched an O-ring?

I guess I should have replaced the seals on this header bolt as well but I didnt even know they were there.

The spec sheet calls for Racor filter R12SUL but ours had a R12S filter on it.

Should I replace the filter whole assembly or just buy the Header bolt kit with the gaskets, as they are about the same price as the header bolt kit looks to be a hard find.

Thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Personally I wouldn’t want anything that rusty looking on my boat.
I guess that’s my answer.

If I spent my time replacing everything that was that rusty I would never have time to take the boat out.

If it were me, I would take the bolt assembly to a hydraulic shop and just match the orings. They should be standard SAE orings. The system is only under a very minimal vacuum. Lubricate the orings with engine motor oil when putting them on the bolt and installing them through the housing.

Ted

O C Diver said:

If it were me, I would take the bolt assembly to a hydraulic shop and just match the orings. They should be standard SAE orings. The system is only under a very minimal vacuum. Lubricate the orings with engine motor oil when putting them on the bolt and installing them through the housing.

Ted

Click to expand...

Good point about lubrication. You want both the bolt and housing to slide on the ring as you tighten so you get even pressure.

Update to issue-

The obsolete/leaking Racor model 120RMAM (that was installed by the factory i am assuming) was replaced today with a new Racor model 120AS. This was what was recommended by Parker/Racor, however they also reminded me the USCG requires the fuel filter to have a metal bowl and the plastic bowl replaced (new model 120AS comes with a plastic bowl) with a metal one or just swapped over in my case.

So the wife is happy and we are comfortably at a mooring ball in Port Washington...NYC was not my cup of tea...wow.

Stainless Steel Doggy Buckets make inexpensive heat shields

O C Diver said:

If it were me, I would take the bolt assembly to a hydraulic shop and just match the orings. They should be standard SAE orings. The system is only under a very minimal vacuum. Lubricate the orings with engine motor oil when putting them on the bolt and installing them through the housing.

Ted

Click to expand...

Harbor Freight has pacs of O rings. $10. for hundreds, in a dozen sizes. With a pac, I have all those sizes and more.

Take dinghy ride and tour all the houseboats there. Incredible.

koliver said:

Harbor Freight has pacs of O rings. $10. for hundreds, in a dozen sizes. With a pac, I have all those sizes and more.

Click to expand...

I spent a lifetime working with orings, rebuilding scuba diving regulators and other diving equipment. Orings come in different sizes (including SAE standard and Metric), durometers (densities), and most importantly materials. For the deck fill caps on my water tanks, I would probably be fine with a Harbor Freight orings. For my diesel fuel system, I'm prepared to give the guy at the hydraulic shop a $1 an oring to know that it's diesel fuel compatible.

Ted

If in doubt if it’s diesel fuel compatable:
Soak it in diesel fuel overnight. If it swells it’s NOT compatible.

( the company I worked for had to do this as a short term fix for a corrective action for a materials mixup)

Just replace the Head Bolt Assembly Kit. No big deal. Don’t lose any sleep about how it looks… It’s beautiful.

Did you try just tightening the header bolt? I think when the filter cartidge is tightened it can turn that bolt in a counter clockwise direction. Not sure on this, just a thought.

IMO, while the filter can be unscrewed, I do not think it is meant to be unscrewed. The top bolt is what needs to come out and filter held in place while bolt is tightened.

On the new one in the second photo (post #6) it looks like it is a spin on element.

Comodave said:

On the new one in the second photo (post #6) it looks like it is a spin on element.

Click to expand...

Not sure, same filter canister. The OP should be able to tell us.
Yup it is a spin on according to online.

Yes, I think the original one used the bolt but the mew one is a spin on.