Anyone have a favorite brush to roll and tip 1 part?
- Thread starter mike66
- Start date
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Comodave
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We use cheap chip brushes. Only problem is they sometimes loose a bristle so before we start we pull on the bristles to try and get the loose ones out. Then we throw them away. The finish comes out great.
Cigatoo
Guru
Wooster has a nice soft tipping brush that works well for me. Color House in North Kingston has them.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/wooster-silver-tip-tipping-brush
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/wooster-silver-tip-tipping-brush
Cigatoo
Guru
I cant speak for Bright Side but with EZ Poxy thinning is the key to a great finish. Keep the tipping brush nice and moist.
I would pay a little extra for a nice brush and then clean them with brush cleaner, so you can reuse one or two more times (pay will gather at the base a come off if you try to reuse to many times)
More importantly, why arn't you using the two part perfection? You get a lot more life if you plan on keeping the boat longer.
rgano
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When I had a boat which needed painting, I tried to use roll and tip, no matter how small the job. There are lots of small foam rollers out there. Worked great with the Awlgrip I used. The brush was good badger bristle when I could get one, but good quality nylon bristle could work too.
OP
OP
mike66
Guru
Using the 1 part over 2 part epoxy primer. I'll never get all of the imperfections out before the final painting. 1 part let's me paint as I go and match newer work with older.
BTW I ended up with Corona chinex brush and it is great with Brightside. Let me brush on areas the roller couldn't reach and it came out great, no brush marks.
OP
OP
mike66
Guru
OP
OP
mike66
Guru
My Brightside application went on pretty easily. The key is to roll out the paint as thinly as possible. After the roller is dry go back over what you just did in the last minute or two to pick up extra paint. Then tip with the brush. Very smooth finish as long as your prep work is good.
I'm using a Commodore Plus brush from Serwin-Williams for tipping. Just tried it today during application of Interlux Perfection Plus, 2-part urethane on cockpit teak bright work. I like it a lot. Very soft bristles (white china bristle locked in epoxy resin per the literature). In fact I first tried a "Fool It" brush from an on-line supplier and it shed bristles. The "Fool It" is supposed to be an upgraded chip brush, but I wasn't impressed. I even wrapped the bristle bundle in masking tape toward the top, and it still lost a few. Cheap chip brushes were worse the last time I did this.
Regarding application of the Perfection Plus...I used a 5 1/2-6" cheap roller from Home Depot. It came with a very dense white foam roller, which worked great on bright work and did not eventually disintegrate like the extra dense (expensive) Wooster foam brushes that I used last time around. (Forget about using cheap foam brushes as they melt within minutes. Additional white foam rollers are sold in packages of two at the big box stores and Ace hardware. Since the Perfection Plus instructions specify several coats, and it takes a day in cooler temperature zone before applying subsequent coats it will take a number of extra rollers.
Last time I did this job I made the mistake of rolling on an extra thick layer on the cockpit door cap rail and sure enough micro bubbles popped up. So I switched to thin layers in other sections with about 20% thinner and the problem pretty much subsided. Once I had the first layer on all surfaces I went back and poked the bubbles with an exacto knife. If they're not deflated, they will generate a tiny white dot that remains after sanding off the bubble. Those white dots are deep in the finish and the only way to eliminate them is to sand off the entire application. F'n nightmare.
Anyway, I'm currently having to time each layer with the weather forecast...wildly variable on Lake Michigan this time of year. A three day, rain free window will net three (maybe four) coats without sanding between coats...depends on temperature. (You don't want to have to sand this stuff as it's like stainless steel once cured).
One more thing about Perfection Plus...it is susceptible to turning opaque if it encounters high humidity during the cure cycle. (Maybe any finish does). I cover it with plastic if it's tack free cured and nightfall is imminent. Overnight dew gets you a guaranteed sanding job....been there too.
It's spectacular stuff once it's finished. In Southern California or Arizona, it's a no brainer for outside application. No problem elsewhere if inside. Turns into a two week job outside in early Spring in the mid-west....
My cockpit cap rail is about 11" wide (including curved edges) and about 22 feet long overall. It will take two one-quart kits @ $100 each for 3-4 coats.
Regarding application of the Perfection Plus...I used a 5 1/2-6" cheap roller from Home Depot. It came with a very dense white foam roller, which worked great on bright work and did not eventually disintegrate like the extra dense (expensive) Wooster foam brushes that I used last time around. (Forget about using cheap foam brushes as they melt within minutes. Additional white foam rollers are sold in packages of two at the big box stores and Ace hardware. Since the Perfection Plus instructions specify several coats, and it takes a day in cooler temperature zone before applying subsequent coats it will take a number of extra rollers.
Last time I did this job I made the mistake of rolling on an extra thick layer on the cockpit door cap rail and sure enough micro bubbles popped up. So I switched to thin layers in other sections with about 20% thinner and the problem pretty much subsided. Once I had the first layer on all surfaces I went back and poked the bubbles with an exacto knife. If they're not deflated, they will generate a tiny white dot that remains after sanding off the bubble. Those white dots are deep in the finish and the only way to eliminate them is to sand off the entire application. F'n nightmare.
Anyway, I'm currently having to time each layer with the weather forecast...wildly variable on Lake Michigan this time of year. A three day, rain free window will net three (maybe four) coats without sanding between coats...depends on temperature. (You don't want to have to sand this stuff as it's like stainless steel once cured).
One more thing about Perfection Plus...it is susceptible to turning opaque if it encounters high humidity during the cure cycle. (Maybe any finish does). I cover it with plastic if it's tack free cured and nightfall is imminent. Overnight dew gets you a guaranteed sanding job....been there too.
It's spectacular stuff once it's finished. In Southern California or Arizona, it's a no brainer for outside application. No problem elsewhere if inside. Turns into a two week job outside in early Spring in the mid-west....
My cockpit cap rail is about 11" wide (including curved edges) and about 22 feet long overall. It will take two one-quart kits @ $100 each for 3-4 coats.
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