Cummins Warning Light Problem

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SteveandZoila

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
150
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Miss Rita
Vessel Make
2004 Heritage East
Just got back to boat this spring, and noticed three of my warning lights does not come on my alarm panel. I have twin cummins 6bta 5.9 marine engines 2004.
The warning buzzer sounds and the low oil light comes on when I turn the key. Both the upper and lower helm control panel all the low oil light (4) comes on. The picture shows the light on with the ignition key in on position. I assume that all four idiot lights should come on.
I have read my manual and search the internet and cannot find any information . I assume that I did not have six sensors fail over the winter.
Open for ideas how to pursue checking the warning lights.
Thanks
Steve
 

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Does the light go out when the oil pressure gets to 40psi?
 
Just got back to boat this spring, and noticed three of my warning lights does not come on my alarm panel. I have twin cummins 6bta 5.9 marine engines 2004.
The warning buzzer sounds and the low oil light comes on when I turn the key. Both the upper and lower helm control panel all the low oil light (4) comes on. The picture shows the light on with the ignition key in on position. I assume that all four idiot lights should come on.
I have read my manual and search the internet and cannot find any information . I assume that I did not have six sensors fail over the winter.
Open for ideas how to pursue checking the warning lights.
Thanks
Steve

I am not sure but maybe since the only warning condition that exists when the key is on but the engine isn’t running is low oil pressure maybe that is why the only light that is on is the low oil pressure. You probably don’t have low volts, high temp or WIF when the key is on but the engine isn’t running.
 
lights

The oil light goes out when engine started and pressure is up. All idiot, warning lights, even my lawn mower light up to ck when I turn key to On. The lights look like sealed Leds.
 
Do they normally come on and then go off when the engine starts? Sometimes they don't. The high temp light should be a sensor on the top of the engine near the thermostat. If you ground that terminal it should make the light turn on. The water in fuel sensor will most likely be on the underside of the fuel filter/fuel&H2O separator. Again, if you ground that is should make the light and buzzer turn on.
 
The oil light goes out when engine started and pressure is up. All idiot, warning lights, even my lawn mower light up to ck when I turn key to On. The lights look like sealed Leds.

Did they all light up when the key was turned on in the past? Is this a new problem or maybe you just noticed it now?
 
May be I can help.

The oil light comes on because the oil pressure is low.
The high temp doesn't because the engine isn't too high.
The low voltage doesn't because it isn't low.
The water in the fuel doesn't because the water level in the separator hasn't bridged the two contacts.

From memory, I think they don't come on until the parameters have been met.

Ted
 
This is quite true, but you have to follow-up with the obligatory "however"-


Some warning panels have the lights all come on momentarily upon power up to let the operator know the actual warning lamps are working too. Probably simplest is to call the builder and ask them how it behaves when powering up.
 
This is quite true, but you have to follow-up with the obligatory "however"-


Some warning panels have the lights all come on momentarily upon power up to let the operator know the actual warning lamps are working too. Probably simplest is to call the builder and ask them how it behaves when powering up.

I had one of those panels in my charter boat. They're not computer driven.

Ted
 
Be thankful you dont have a buzzer. When I am maneuvering, the buzzer go off. I need to have low pressure alarm adjusted.
I dont mind a loud buzzer for 2 reasons. I am hard of hearing and two, I really want to know if it is really low pressure so I can shut down and save the engine.
 
Some thoughts

After reading the Boat US article about engine failures because of burned out lights and or buzzers, I did want to install a louder alarm for my failing ears. I guess I was more aware looking at my panel. Sooo maybe the other lights never came on, and I am just noticing it now. The panels have a computer board, tapping into alarm now to power relay for louder alarm. Problem power is 8.8 volts. Thanks for all the input. Steve
 
I have the same engine & panel (2002 or 3) in my new-to-me-last-year boat. Only the Oil Pressure light has ever come on when I turn the key on, to the best of my knowledge.
 
Chris

Chris, thanks, I think you have solved my "problem" Working on louder alarm this morning. Thanks again to everybody.
 
I have a loud buzzer. Some folks it is too loud LOL
 
I have the identical engine and panel as you have.
I am on the boat right now and confirmed that you are all good to go..
When I turn the battery switch on the dash backlights come on. When I turn the key to the first position the alarm screams and the low oil light ONLY comes on; nothing else.
I push the Start button and the beautiful beige growling beast starts immediately and within a second or two the alarm shuts off.
I.e your system is acting normally and doing its job
 
Last edited:
After reading the Boat US article about engine failures because of burned out lights and or buzzers, I did want to install a louder alarm for my failing ears. I guess I was more aware looking at my panel. Sooo maybe the other lights never came on, and I am just noticing it now. The panels have a computer board, tapping into alarm now to power relay for louder alarm. Problem power is 8.8 volts. Thanks for all the input. Steve

8.8 volts. Where? At the main power leads to the actual board? If so then you likely have a bad connection in that circuit.

Of course check the voltage where the panel itself gets its power to ensure the problem is not the supply itself.

Could be corrosion, looseness, poor crimps, inadequate wire size.

Be sure though that where you are taking the V readings that the meter leads are on clean spots. THe DMM lead points must be sharp enough to pierce any oxidation on the surface you are trying to read from or you will get poor readings.

Check BOTH the + & - leads that there are no questionable connections and correct any that are found.
 
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