Seacock Handle Failed...

I'm reminded that a 20 minute job is just one broken bolt away from becoming a multi-day disaster...

Time for a little maintenance today - cleaning strainers since I'm not sure when they were last done on our new-to-us boat. One of the main engine cooling seacocks worked fine - a little stiff but no problems. The other one, of course, was a different story.

I know not to beat on these things, and to work them back & forth as you get them through their full range of motion. I was nearly to the point where it was completely closed when the handle just came off in my hand Looks like somebody beat on this thing at some point during its life.
No leakage but now I have a main engine cooling seacock that is maybe 10% open at best.

Seacock is a Groco 4" unit - IBV-4000 by the casting. Has a nut and lockwasher that holds the handle on. The nut does not move with the handle, so it's not as simple as putting a wrench on the nut.

Can I remove the nut and take the handle from the other seacock to at least get this one open again? Or will that be a 'water world' experience?

You should be able to use the other handle. We have always removed the handles from our holding tank seacocks until we are in Canada and have never had a problem.

porman said:

You should be able to use the other handle. We have always removed the handles from our holding tank seacocks until we are in Canada and have never had a problem.

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Thanks. I was able to take the other handle and swap it so all is good. Wasn't sure about how these were put together. Something about a 4 inch hole in the boat that makes me cautious...

That is a common problem with stainless ball valve handles. They get bad crevice corrosion under the nut. Add it to your list as something to keep an eye on.

Spray all around it with WD 40 penetrant to get it working smoothly and to keep the corrosion at bay, or, when its all cleaned up, coat the metal parts with a light smear of Vaseline.
Obviously not the plastic coating on the handle.

porman said:

You should be able to use the other handle. We have always removed the handles from our holding tank seacocks until we are in Canada and have never had a problem.

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This is contrary to what one would expect. Shouldn't you leave the handles off while in Canada, so you are unable to switch to discharge?

This is why you should work all the seacocks open and closed a couple times each year and lube them once a year.

John R M said:

This is contrary to what one would expect. Shouldn't you leave the handles off while in Canada, so you are unable to switch to discharge?

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Aren't we talking about engine cooling water seacock here?

rgano said:

Aren't we talking about engine cooling water seacock here?

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The OP was, but porman referenced his holding tanks.

I'm assuming you have a steel boat otherwise why a stainless seacock? Personally I never use ball valves but I've always had fiberglass boats so bronze is fine. I open and close all seacocks often and disassemble and service at every haulout.

Fish53 said:

I'm assuming you have a steel boat otherwise why a stainless seacock? Personally I never use ball valves but I've always had fiberglass boats so bronze is fine. I open and close all seacocks often and disassemble and service at every haulout.

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His seacock is bronze. Only the handle is stainless.

John R M said:

The OP was, but porman referenced his holding tanks.

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Indeed he was.

HopCar said:

His seacock is bronze. Only the handle is stainless.

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Isn't the ball usually stainless as well?

Take to a yard, haul the boat and have all the hull valves professionally serviced. You should be fine for 2 years at least assuming you cycle the valves every couple of months.

Fish53 said:

Isn't the ball usually stainless as well?

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I believe on that model the ball is chrome plated brass. I know, but I’ve never heard of one failing. Must be very heavy chrome. This type is imported.

Groco makes another seacock that has a bronze handle and a stainless ball. It is a lot more expensive. It is made in the USA.

I also use a 1.5 piece of pvc to have a little leverage. I would also agree to have the boat pulled and have them serviced. This is one piece of equipment you do not want to fail.

John R M said:

This is contrary to what one would expect. Shouldn't you leave the handles off while in Canada, so you are unable to switch to discharge?

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You are required to have the discharge valves closed and somehow disabled in the US. Remove the handles, zip tie the handles, lock them, whatever so they cannot be opened. BC Canada has very few pumpouts and overboard discharge is allowed under certain conditions. It is legal to leave the handles on when in Canadian waters.

Thanks for enlightening me on west coast regulations.

I would think taking the handle off prevents a visual examination of the valve position.

my brother went one better. When he had his Tiara built, he did not have the overboard hull valve installed so there is NO possibility of an overboard discharge accident.

I am a bit confused when it comes to the regulations.... it says "disabled". my macerator pump is key controlled. When I had a coastguard inspection, they seemed to be satisfied with that.

OldDan1943 said:

I would think taking the handle off prevents a visual examination of the valve position.

my brother went one better. When he had his Tiara built, he did not have the overboard hull valve installed so there is NO possibility of an overboard discharge accident.

I am a bit confused when it comes to the regulations.... it says "disabled". my macerator pump is key controlled. When I had a coastguard inspection, they seemed to be satisfied with that.

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My understanding is key switch is acceptable as long as the key is stored someplace other than in the switch.

Bacchus said:

My understanding is key switch is acceptable as long as the key is stored someplace other than in the switch.

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True..... I have to be careful where I put the key. I seem to be forgetful.

porman said:

You are required to have the discharge valves closed and somehow disabled in the US. Remove the handles, zip tie the handles, lock them, whatever so they cannot be opened. BC Canada has very few pumpouts and overboard discharge is allowed under certain conditions. It is legal to leave the handles on when in Canadian waters.

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Off Topic, but this is not correct for Puget Sound. The NDZ is still in dispute and the USCG will not enforce it. Good topic for another thread.

Again to the OP, pull the boat and perform maintenance and/or replacement of the seacocks.

Removal of all the handles of the hull valves is contrary to good damage control.
Removal of the valve handle, on the black water tank may sound reasonable but it if that hose fails, you are stuck hunting up and installing the handle. I would suggest disabling with wire ties.
Per the other hull valves, leave the handle on to be used incase of necessary damage control.

OldDan1943 said:

Removal of all the handles of the hull valves is contrary to good damage control.
Removal of the valve handle, on the black water tank may sound reasonable but it if that hose fails, you are stuck hunting up and installing the handle. I would suggest disabling with wire ties.
Per the other hull valves, leave the handle on to be used incase of necessary damage control.

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I only leave the handle off with the valve closed. When in Canada I open the valve only to pump overboard and close it when done. As to ASD's comment, the NDZ really only applies to boats with on board waste treatment systems. All other systems are prohibited from dumping overboard in Puget Sound at all times.

porman said:

I only leave the handle off with the valve closed. When in Canada I open the valve only to pump overboard and close it when done. As to ASD's comment, the NDZ really only applies to boats with on board waste treatment systems. All other systems are prohibited from dumping overboard in Puget Sound at all times.

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According to brother, no pumping the black water tank in the Great Lakes and no pumping of the bilges.

OldDan1943 said:

According to brother, no pumping the black water tank in the Great Lakes and no pumping of the bilges.

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You can pump the bilges on the Great Lakes. But obviously you can’t pump oil overboard.

OldDan1943 said:

Removal of all the handles of the hull valves is contrary to good damage control.
Removal of the valve handle, on the black water tank may sound reasonable but it if that hose fails, you are stuck hunting up and installing the handle. I would suggest disabling with wire ties.
Per the other hull valves, leave the handle on to be used incase of necessary damage control.

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If the through hull is closed there isn’t any problem with the hoses. Even if the hose were to get cut the through hull is closed so no water taken onboard.

Comodave said:

If the through hull is closed there isn’t any problem with the hoses. Even if the hose were to get cut the through hull is closed so no water taken onboard.

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If the cooling hose or gen hose give way, I sure dont want to spend time hunt up the handle and installing it.

OldDan1943 said:

If the cooling hose or gen hose give way, I sure dont want to spend time hunt up the handle and installing it.

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The topic was the blackwater tank through hull, not a cooling hose or genset hose.

OldDan1943 said:

If the cooling hose or gen hose give way, I sure dont want to spend time hunt up the handle and installing it.

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Comodave said:

The topic was the blackwater tank through hull, not a cooling hose or genset hose.

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Here is an excerpt from the OP...
"One of the main engine cooling seacocks worked fine - a little stiff but no problems. The other one, of course, was a different story."

This thread started about main eng cooling seacock but drifted to other topics along the way. It is interesting at times to sit back and observe arguing about two very different topics.