CT Trawlers, 35'

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
RMoore

RMoore

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
31
Location
U.S.A.
We have just purchased a used CT, Sundeck model Trawler, 35' with twin Perkins diesels. We're now going thru all the sea-cocks and thru-hulls, re-packing stuffing boxes, and generally taking care of below the waterline hull issues (bottom paint and zincs, etc.). Any info anyone out there has on these vessels would be welcome. We're not new to boating; have been sailing for many years, but we're new to Trawlers, and although CT has made a ton of boats, there doesn't seem to be much discussion on these models on the forum. If you have a similar model, or another type of CT Trawler, maybe we can get a group together. What do you think?
 
Ct 35

I also have a 35 CT, she is a 1985 sundeck with twin Ford Super 90's. I have had her for about 7 years and have done a lot of repairs and updates from fuel tanks to electronics, stereo, TV's, windless, canvas, interior and exterior upholstery.

Just finished gel coating the fly bridge and fore cabin, rebuilt both side doors and buffed the rest of the house. Next job is to redo the exterior woodwork. It's been almost 3 years and the Bristol finish is starting to show some distress.

I'm in Florida and from the research I've done there appears that only 12 35' Trawlers where ever built, and it looks like about a 50/50 split between Sundecks and Trunks.
 
Wow..you've done a lot of work. Fortunately, our 1986 was pretty well maintained and we haven't had to do too much, other than normal maintenance. There is some water damage on some of the interior wood and the doors need a little work, so I have projects to keep me busy over the winter. We are in Los Angeles and with all the trawlers I've seen, ours is the only CT. I was familiar with their sailboats, and know them to be a reliable builder, so we felt really good about the integrity of their hulls. Needless to say, we really like the layout of the boat and the ease of handling. We have twin Perkins 85's that push the boat really easily. Your research is better than mine; you are the only other Sundeck owner I have found. If there were only 6 or so made, we are in a very exclusive club. Nice to meet you...
 
I belong to MTOA and there are 3 CT 35's that belong to members. One is in Maryland and one in South Carolina. I think I've also seen two recently for sale on YachtWorld on the west coast. I replaced the step boxes coming in from both side doors and re-faced the cabinet just inside the port door. No other leaks, I like the idea of metal windows frames compared to most other Trawlers of similar vintage.
 
The fly bridge is back together except for the electronics's. Will installed them tomorrow. Today we finished yp reinstalling door, snaps, hinges, etc. Then we painted the non skid and backed out the fly bridge. It been six years since the non skid was painted and the only reason for ding it was that there was a some paint droppings and a few scratches form all of our work. This is the second time we have used H&C Concrete stain on the non skid, tapped it of with blue masking tape and rolled the stain on. An hour later the stain was dry and we pulled up the tale, not a single "bleed" through. Tomorrow, will install the electronic, the table and helm seat. Next up is the sundeck, which will be a piece of cake, only need to remove weather clothes, hatch cover, steps,etc. Figuring one day of sanding, two days of painting decks (2 cots, primer, 2 coats of top finish and then one day for painting non skid and reassembly of everything. Should Be done by Sunday at the latest.
 
Flatsflyer said:
The fly bridge is back together except for the electronics's. Will installed them tomorrow. Today we finished yp reinstalling door, snaps, hinges, etc. Then we painted the non skid and backed out the fly bridge. It been six years since the non skid was painted and the only reason for ding it was that there was a some paint droppings and a few scratches form all of our work. This is the second time we have used H&C Concrete stain on the non skid, tapped it of with blue masking tape and rolled the stain on. An hour later the stain was dry and we pulled up the tale, not a single "bleed" through. Tomorrow, will install the electronic, the table and helm seat. Next up is the sundeck, which will be a piece of cake, only need to remove weather clothes, hatch cover, steps,etc. Figuring one day of sanding, two days of painting decks (2 cots, primer, 2 coats of top finish and then one day for painting non skid and reassembly of everything. Should Be done by Sunday at the latest.
Click to expand...

Any pictures you can post?
 
Flatsflyer said:
I also have a 35 CT, she is a 1985 sundeck with twin Ford Super 90's. I have had her for about 7 years and have done a lot of repairs and updates from fuel tanks to electronics, stereo, TV's, windless, canvas, interior and exterior upholstery.

Just finished gel coating the fly bridge and fore cabin, rebuilt both side doors and buffed the rest of the house. Next job is to redo the exterior woodwork. It's been almost 3 years and the Bristol finish is starting to show some distress.

I'm in Florida and from the research I've done there appears that only 12 35' Trawlers where ever built, and it looks like about a 50/50 split between Sundecks and Trunks.
Click to expand...

I have to re do my port sliding door and am looking for replacement rollers that might stand a chance of lasting in a marine environment. I don't know what was used before, but it's toast now. Also, did you have to pull the engines to replace your fuel tanks? I assume you have 2 tanks, 1 ea. port and starboard..
 
Flatsflyer said:
I belong to MTOA and there are 3 CT 35's that belong to members. One is in Maryland and one in South Carolina. I think I've also seen two recently for sale on YachtWorld on the west coast. I replaced the step boxes coming in from both side doors and re-faced the cabinet just inside the port door. No other leaks, I like the idea of metal windows frames compared to most other Trawlers of similar vintage.
Click to expand...

Whatr is a CT and MTOA? Its early so maybe my old brain is not working yet? :confused:
 
MTOA is the Marine Trawlers Owner Association, a national organization with a couple of thousand members. Feel free to go to our website, MTOA.Net for details. The association is broken down into regional groups, who hold various activities, trips luncheons, etc.

CT is the name of vessels build by Ti Chao, this comp0any is a large sailboat manufacture located in China. Over the years they built various Trawlers, I think there where only around 12 built in the mid 1980's. Mine is a sundeck with twin 90 HP Lehman Ford tractor engines, two staterooms, two heads and two stations, draws around 3 1/2 feet and weighs in around 21,000 pounds. She was built in 1985 and I've had her for 7 years. Cruises at 8.5 and burns around 2 gph at cruise.
 
RMoore said:
I have to re do my port sliding door and am looking for replacement rollers that might stand a chance of lasting in a marine environment. I don't know what was used before, but it's toast now.
Click to expand...

I recomend using UHMW tape. We got rid of the rollers and put the tape across the bottom of the doors over two years ago. Still slide great. google it and you will find many places to buy it, as well as explanations as to what exactly it is. (...a linear polymer with a molecular weight 10 times that of conventional high density polyethylene resins. This allows for high abrasion resistance, outstanding impact strength, moderate chemical resistance, extreme slickness and superior sound dampening characteristics...It is the ideal material for applications requiring high slip and durability)
 
Yes, we had to pull the engines to replace the fuel tanks, tanks are 160 gallons each. We actually pulled one engine at at time hanging it from a "A" frame in the salon while the old tank was removed and the new tank installed. Total cost for tanks, labor, new fuel hoses, etc. was around $11,000.

I recently replaced the rollers on both side doors, found exact replacements at ACE Hardware. They had to be special ordered and where the exact size and have nylon rollers on a SS shaft, four rollers where $14.00. Ace had rollers in stock but they where to small, they went on web to mfg. and found the right size. Delivered four days later.
 
Flats,

Does your salon floor open up directly over the engine? My salon floor opens up in the center but not directly over the engine. Do they slide the engine over? Curious how that works. Make any sense?
 
Baggiolini said:
Flats,

Does your salon floor open up directly over the engine? My salon floor opens up in the center but not directly over the engine. Do they slide the engine over? Curious how that works. Make any sense?
Click to expand...

This post from Rick a couple months back has some photos that may interest you.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/engine-removal-replacement-7483-2.html#post107833

The orange things are called chain falls. If you look closely you'll notice they are set at differing locations to effect pull in desired directions. Scroll down that page to post 27 of Rick's to see more explanation and photo's.

There is nothing too awkward that professional riggers cannot move given the time and equipment to do it right.
 
Thanks Craig! Here's hoping we never have to go through that!
 
I'll bet our layouts are the same. Engine access is through two panels between the built-in benches. We also removed the panel over the genny. The beams are removable once the floor panels are out. The strong arm use had roller track that allowed the engines to be moved over the opposing bench. The engine was held in that elevated position while the old tank was removed and the new one installed. We had less than 2 inches of clearance between the floor under the built-ins and the top of the engine. As engine was lifted it had to be tilted and lifted at the same time to clear the stringer. Once tank and engine installed we moved on two the starboard engine and repeated same process. Engines going back in was actually easier than coming out.
 
glad to know that it can be done, but it's on the list of what I hope to never have to go through
 
When we got the port old tank out we found that some time before we bought her there was a problem. Someone had emptied the tank and raised it ever so slightly and "stuffed" a resin coated rag under the rear corner of the tank. It appear that some form of fastner was under the tank, probably when built and cause a rust spot in the tank. The new tanks bottoms and 6 inches up each side where covered with truck bed liner to protect from any mositure problems. The frame work and bedding for the tanks where also rebuilt.
 
Pineapple Girl said:
I recomend using UHMW tape. We got rid of the rollers and put the tape across the bottom of the doors over two years ago. Still slide great. google it and you will find many places to buy it, as well as explanations as to what exactly it is. (...a linear polymer with a molecular weight 10 times that of conventional high density polyethylene resins. This allows for high abrasion resistance, outstanding impact strength, moderate chemical resistance, extreme slickness and superior sound dampening characteristics...It is the ideal material for applications requiring high slip and durability)
Click to expand...

Thanks Pineapple Girl. I'll check it out. Did you have to make any other adjustments to maintain the same height of the door to the frame?

Sent from my iPad using Trawler
 
Flatsflyer said:
Yes, we had to pull the engines to replace the fuel tanks, tanks are 160 gallons each. We actually pulled one engine at at time hanging it from a "A" frame in the salon while the old tank was removed and the new tank installed. Total cost for tanks, labor, new fuel hoses, etc. was around $11,000.

I recently replaced the rollers on both side doors, found exact replacements at ACE Hardware. They had to be special ordered and where the exact size and have nylon rollers on a SS shaft, four rollers where $14.00. Ace had rollers in stock but they where to small, they went on web to mfg. and found the right size. Delivered four days later.
Click to expand...

Certainly sounds like our layouts are identical. I'll check with ACE, also going to look into UHMW tape. Either way, I have to pull the door, and I think I'll wait until spring or early summer. I don't want to be without a working door 'till the weather warms..thanks for the feedback..

Sent from my iPad using Trawler
 
RMoore said:
Thanks Pineapple Girl. I'll check it out. Did you have to make any other adjustments to maintain the same height of the door to the frame?

Sent from my iPad using Trawler
Click to expand...

Nope nothing. Our wheels barely stuck out the bottom of the door. Doors slide great and the lock still lines up.

Good luck!!
 
Re: UHMW

Just to clarify, did you apply the tape to the bottom of the door, eliminating the rollers, or did you apply the tape to the bottom of the door frame and let the rollers ride on the tape? Since the rollers are toast (in my case), I'm thinking the tape just replaces the rollers, and the door will slide along the track on the bottom of the door frame. Am I on (no pun intended) the right track? Thanks again for your info..
 
RMoore said:
Just to clarify, did you apply the tape to the bottom of the door, eliminating the rollers, or did you apply the tape to the bottom of the door frame and let the rollers ride on the tape? Since the rollers are toast (in my case), I'm thinking the tape just replaces the rollers, and the door will slide along the track on the bottom of the door frame. Am I on (no pun intended) the right track? Thanks again for your info..
Click to expand...

Sorry Pineapple Girl..I forgot your first response noted that you replaced the rollers on the door with the tape. I'll be ordering some tape after the holidays. Thanks again, and have a great holiday season..

Sent from my iPad using Trawler
 
Pineapple Girl, R Moore answered his own questions, but I`m wondering if the tape is applied to both the underside of the door,and the door frame base, or just to one of them.
My sliding hatch to access the flybridge slides (well, sort of slides) on teak runners; this tape could be useful and save dismantling the hatch cover.
 
That's so weird, I thought I replied???

We just put it on the bottom of the door. We bought it to the same width as the door and covered the whole length of the door. We are VERY happy with it. We have to slide the door slowly or it will fly open into the door stopper. :)
 
Bruce maybe if I read more carefully sorry! We actually used the same product on a sliding hatch on a sailboat. We only applied it onto the part the hatch slid upon and it worked well. We had to use a thinner tape in that application as there wasn't much room to play with. I actually need to find the thinner stuff again and use it on the sliding door into the aft cabin. The thing barely slides and is wearing a grove in the top step.
 
Last edited:
We've decided to sell "Prudence", she is listed on the MTOA.Net (website) which is open to the public.
 
Prudence (1985 CT 35) has been sold, she left the dock behind my house on Tuesday heading for her new home in South Carolina.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Bucco
Replies
1
Views
264
Comodave
Comodave
docdawg
past or present Camano 34 (Ledford) trawler owners
Replies
0
Views
324
docdawg
docdawg
T
New OR Members Planning Great Loop Adventure
2
Replies
34
Views
3K
Captain DJ
Captain DJ
B
  • Locked
1972 Pocket Trawler/Tug for Sale
Replies
1
Views
2K
Beeliner
B
BurceH
Newbie to CT35 Sundeck
Replies
4
Views
670
PennBruce
PennBruce

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom