Greenline 40: General Discussion

Sure sounds like something is amiss with your engine cooling system. You should be able to run at full power without overheating. Saying “don’t do that” is a lazy cop-out.

I’d start with the raw water strainer to be sure it’s clear. That’s the easiest to check. From there I’d start shooting the raw water temp entering and exiting the heat exchanger, and the coolant temp entering and existing the heat exchanger. Others have more experience and will hopefully chime in, but I would expect to see a 10-20f drop in the coolant temp, and a smaller rise in the raw water. If you see a large rise in the raw water, then not enough is passing through the cooler.

GL40Hybrid129 said:

Hi All,
Calling all Greenline 40 Hybrid owners: What is your cruising speed? I was hoping to be able to cruise up on a plane at 14-15knts, but whenever I do I get an engine overheating warning. In fact, whenever I run at over 3100RPM I get that warning after about 15 minutes. So that limits me to 11 KNTs max cruising speed. I even had a Volvo mechanic hook up his computer and he said I'm at 80% of max load at 3100RPM, and to just stop pushing it. And I had only half fuel, practically no water, and just the two of us aboard. Would love to hear if other GL40 Hybrid owners are able to cruise up on a plane.

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As asked before, ONE or BOTH engines? Is a buzzer warning or just a digital or analog gauge reading?

I ask because the analog temp gauge on my GL33 Hybrid is grossly over-reading at about 95C (203F)when at half-power (~3200 RPM) going up to 100C @ sustained 3850 WOT. BUT, the iPAD digital systems monitoring readout is 80C (176F), rising to only ~ 85C/185F WOT. This is consistent with my reading that the VW 165 TDi's thermostat was set to open @ 80C.

PeterB40 said:

As asked before, ONE or BOTH engines? Is a buzzer warning or just a digital or analog gauge reading?

I ask because the analog temp gauge on my GL33 Hybrid is grossly over-reading at about 95C (203F)when at half-power (~3200 RPM) going up to 100C @ sustained 3850 WOT. BUT, the iPAD digital systems monitoring readout is 80C (176F), rising to only ~ 85C/185F WOT. This is consistent with my reading that the VW 165 TDi's thermostat was set to open @ 80C.

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Hi PeterB,


A comment related to your temp comments above:


I too, have noticed a similar discrepancy between my analogue temperature gauge and the VW Marine Digital readout at the helm (VW165-TDI). This has always annoyed me, but never to the extent that I wanted to spend any time, money and effort to figure out why. I guess I sort of classified this phenomenon in my mind as something like what one experiences when one has two clocks... you never know exactly what time it is. Anyway, it's nice to know that my GL is not the only one that behaves like this ;-)


And a comment related to your RPM comments above, but probably not at all related to the OP's question...

I have never seen 3850 RPM on my VW165-TDI...and it's been this way since I bought the boat with 16 hours on the engine. As I mentioned earlier, I can go 13 knots with the boat loaded. And I can go 14 with the boat mostly empty. Have never seen the Greenline-claimed 15 knots -- but then I never really cared about this, because I almost never want to run at these speeds anyway. Somewhere along the line, I learned that optimal prop style for diesel-only GL33's was 4-blade. And for Electric operation 5-Blade. And that what was being delivered with the hybrids in 2010/2011 was a 5-Blade...and that that was the least-bad "compromise" solution for the GL33 hybrid. So, I have the factory-delivered 5-BLADE Michigan 17"xI4" RH BORE 40MM. I also carry a spare with the exact same specs, just in case. Wondering what you have, as I expect prop-specs might possibly explain some difference in WOT RPM (??? I am not a marine engineer).

ScottC said:

Hi PeterB,


A comment related to your temp comments above:


I too, have noticed a similar discrepancy between my analogue temperature gauge and the VW Marine Digital readout at the helm (VW165-TDI). This has always annoyed me, but never to the extent that I wanted to spend any time, money and effort to figure out why. I guess I sort of classified this phenomenon in my mind as something like what one experiences when one has two clocks... you never know exactly what time it is. Anyway, it's nice to know that my GL is not the only one that behaves like this ;-)


And a comment related to your RPM comments above, but probably not at all related to the OP's question...

I have never seen 3850 RPM on my VW165-TDI...and it's been this way since I bought the boat with 16 hours on the engine. As I mentioned earlier, I can go 13 knots with the boat loaded. And I can go 14 with the boat mostly empty. Have never seen the Greenline-claimed 15 knots -- but then I never really cared about this, because I almost never want to run at these speeds anyway. Somewhere along the line, I learned that optimal prop style for diesel-only GL33's was 4-blade. And for Electric operation 5-Blade. And that what was being delivered with the hybrids in 2010/2011 was a 5-Blade...and that that was the least-bad "compromise" solution for the GL33 hybrid. So, I have the factory-delivered 5-BLADE Michigan 17"xI4" RH BORE 40MM. I also carry a spare with the exact same specs, just in case. Wondering what you have, as I expect prop-specs might possibly explain some difference in WOT RPM (??? I am not a marine engineer).

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Glad to hear that your analog gauge is way off too! I'm gonna take mine out and see if there's a setting adjustment for the potentiometer. On a previous the sea trial w/ WOT run for my '14 w/ 230 EH's, the surveyor was concerned enough to get the owner to check the sea water impeller and rod-out the heat exchanger tubes - all normal. But they prob. never looked at the iPad Moftec program he had that Greenline used for systems monitoring.

I've never seen over about 13.5 knots tops on mine, which has the 5-blade 17x14 prop too, with Prop-Speed and reglular bottom cleanings.

GL40Hybrid129 said:

Hi All,
Calling all Greenline 40 Hybrid owners: What is your cruising speed? I was hoping to be able to cruise up on a plane at 14-15knts, but whenever I do I get an engine overheating warning. In fact, whenever I run at over 3100RPM I get that warning after about 15 minutes. So that limits me to 11 KNTs max cruising speed. I even had a Volvo mechanic hook up his computer and he said I'm at 80% of max load at 3100RPM, and to just stop pushing it. And I had only half fuel, practically no water, and just the two of us aboard. Would love to hear if other GL40 Hybrid owners are able to cruise up on a plane.

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I have a 2018 diesel-only GL40 with twin Volvo D3-220 engines. I cruise at about 15kts at around 2300 rpm. The engines temp stays at 85 degrees C.

Are your propellers OK? Did someone change the propellers with different spec ones, or changed the propeller piltch? Is your cooling system clogged up? Is your boat severely overloaded? Is your hull clean?

There must be a problem somewhere.

There's a boattest.com review here: https://boattest.com/node/74633.

There's also a boattest.com YouTube video with more speed/consumption info for the Volvo powered GL40.

Good luck.

PeterB40 said:

Glad to hear that your analog gauge is way off too! I'm gonna take mine out and see if there's a setting adjustment for the potentiometer. On a previous the sea trial w/ WOT run for my '14 w/ 230 EH's, the surveyor was concerned enough to get the owner to check the sea water impeller and rod-out the heat exchanger tubes - all normal. But they prob. never looked at the iPad Moftec program he had that Greenline used for systems monitoring.

I've never seen over about 13.5 knots tops on mine, which has the 5-blade 17x14 prop too, with Prop-Speed and reglular bottom cleanings.

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Good to know!
My quoted statistics were without Prop-Speed. But Prop-Speed is on it now. I hope the only difference will be reduced fouling. I will find out in the spring!

STBD engine is showing the overheating warning. But coolant temp never reads over 183. It's an oil temp warning, and there's no oil temp gage. So somehow the oil temp goes higher while the coolant temp stays steady. I keep the strainers clean. In fact, got the warning right after cleaning the strainers. I'm considering putting in bigger through hulls and bigger strainers. Thoughts? I do have lots of weight on board generally but was 1/2 fuel and no water when the tech was aboard. Have the 5 blade factory prop with Propspeed. I'm wondering about air intake. There's tremendous negative pressure in the cabin when we run closed up. Which is often to keep tern wash from coating the cabin. In rough water when we're taking spray on the windows, water gets in the sliding windo chanals and gets sucked into the cabin and spit aggressively into the cabin, soaking the head, guest bunk helm, and other side window. I already rewired the blower fans so both blow in. (One was wired to exhaust.) But that didn't help. I'm trying to figure out how to get more air to the bilge.

You should not need larger raw water intakes and strainers. Just make sure your impellers are good, and the heat exchangers are not restricted.

I do not notice any engine temp changes with full fuel, water, and dinghy at cruising speed.

GL40Hybrid129 said:

STBD engine is showing the overheating warning. But coolant temp never reads over 183. It's an oil temp warning, and there's no oil temp gage. So somehow the oil temp goes higher while the coolant temp stays steady. I keep the strainers clean. In fact, got the warning right after cleaning the strainers. I'm considering putting in bigger through hulls and bigger strainers. Thoughts? I do have lots of weight on board generally but was 1/2 fuel and no water when the tech was aboard. Have the 5 blade factory prop with Propspeed. I'm wondering about air intake. There's tremendous negative pressure in the cabin when we run closed up. Which is often to keep tern wash from coating the cabin. In rough water when we're taking spray on the windows, water gets in the sliding windo chanals and gets sucked into the cabin and spit aggressively into the cabin, soaking the head, guest bunk helm, and other side window. I already rewired the blower fans so both blow in. (One was wired to exhaust.) But that didn't help. I'm trying to figure out how to get more air to the bilge.

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Well that sounds more like instrument malfunction to me - especially if your helm is being bathed in salt water!

Truly bizarre story about the "tremendous negative pressure" in your soaked cabin. If that's really the case, and not just leaky windows, which would be very unusual with the design, then simply opening the entry door should immediately stop it. I simply can't believe this is the case in the well designed and engineered Greenlines unless someone has really mucked up the engine room vents...

GL40Hybrid129 said:

STBD engine is showing the overheating warning. But coolant temp never reads over 183. It's an oil temp warning, and there's no oil temp gage. So somehow the oil temp goes higher while the coolant temp stays steady.

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I'm confused. If there is no oil temp gauge, how in heck do you know the oil temp is going high..? Sounds like a faulty warning buzzer.

If the water temps are ok, one suspects the oil temps are also ok, (as long as you have the right amount of oil in each engine - and even then most engines are pretty forgiving of a slightly lower than normal oil level), as water temp rises usually come well before oil temp dangerous rises in internal combustion engines I've ever dealt with.

As someone suggested, if you have salty water misting in over your helm, look for instrument damage and error as a more likely scenario than weird engine behaviour or inadequate coolint flow.

GL40Hybrid129 said:

I'm trying to figure out how to get more air to the bilge.

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I read your comments about negative pressure in the cabin with a bit of alarm.

This really shouldn't be the case. If the GL40 is anything like the GL33 setup, the exhaust fan in the engine room is supposed to suck the air OUT. But, it will not be able to suck air OUT if the engine room air intake channel is blocked or partially blocked. Such could genuinely lead to the negative cabin pressure you describe. So, I think it is imperative for you to locate the air intake channel and check that.

I'm not sure about the location of this channel for the GL40, but my guess is that it may be positioned similarly to that on the GL33. On the GL33, the intake channel is along the starboard deck, facing down (not visible unless you get on your knees and look up under the small edge of the cabin that overhangs the walkway a bit). The exhaust is similarly placed, but on the port side.

Could air starvation lead to overheating oil in a diesel? I'm not sure, but you need to resolve the negative cabin pressure anyway.

Good luck on your investigations!

It all sounds a bit weird Scott. Air starvation, if that is an issue, would tend to cause an over-rich mixture, and a cooler running temp if anything. Not a warmer temp, a lean mixture is usually the cause of that. I don't think diesels are any different in that respect. The engine should be running roughly if there was air starvation as well.

I looked at the Greenline 33 and 40 some about 4 years ago at the Newport Boat Show. A very interesting boat. I asked about the warranty on the main battery bank and replacement cost. They said 5 years and did not have a price and for what ever reason could not get back to me with one. Without a price, I walked away feeling that the cost could well excide the benefits.

So would anyone know the cost?

If I'm following correctly. The engine coolant temps is fine with gauge showing ~180F and no alarms. But you are getting an oil temp alarm. There is no oil temp gauge, just an alarm.


I agree that this sounds like a faulty oil temp sensor. You could confirm by using a temp guy and checking the temp of the oil pan on both engines. They should be pretty much the same. If your engine came with a manual, it might say what the alarm temp threshold is, and you could compare that to your actual measurement. But most operator guides dumb it down and say something like "oil temperature is too high. Contact an authorized service dealer."


If the oil temp actually is high then there is really an issue with the engine, and definitely NOT the boat. I'm told the Lehman's are different, but all engines I've seen have coolant cooled oil coolers. That's a lot of "cool" in one sentence. Either the coolant isn't circulating as it should, or the oil isn't circulating as it should. When was the oil filter last changed? A badly plugged oil filter might restrict oil flow, but I'd think that would be accompanied by a pressure reduction too. Depends on how the engine and flows are set up, I suppose. I'm not at all familiar with the details of the Volvo D3.

jbinbi said:

Any idea of how long you can run at 8kts. I don't know if there is linear or non linear equation on range with speed vs. time. E.g., you can run 8 hours at 4kts, but only 2 hours at 8kts? I know as you approach hull speed you are using more energy to get past it, but up to about 90% of hull speed, I would expect close to linear? Hull speed on GL 40 is about 8.2 kts.

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Because I’m at full throttle to be over 8 kts, I never run it for very long at that speed. 20 mins max, then I start feeling nervous. But, very often I’ll keep it at 5 to 6 kts for up to two and a half hours. By that time I’m usually down to 40% on the battery. (Keep in mind I have an extra battery so i get a longer time on pure electrics). But I get nervous allowing the batteries to drain below 40%, so I usually switch to diesel for about an hour. Usually I’m back up to over 90% after an hour on diesel (averaging between 15 and 17knts).

DDevlinJr said:

Because I’m at full throttle to be over 8 kts, I never run it for very long at that speed. 20 mins max, then I start feeling nervous. But, very often I’ll keep it at 5 to 6 kts for up to two and a half hours. By that time I’m usually down to 40% on the battery. (Keep in mind I have an extra battery so i get a longer time on pure electrics). But I get nervous allowing the batteries to drain below 40%, so I usually switch to diesel for about an hour. Usually I’m back up to over 90% after an hour on diesel (averaging between 15 and 17knts).

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I looked at the Greenline 40 about 2 or 3 years ago. My wife and I really liked it but they could not answer one question and maybe you could.

They told me that there was a 5 year warranty on the batteries. But they could not tell me the replacement cost. Without that, I backed away from the deal. Would you know??

GL40Hybrid129 said:

Hi All,
Calling all Greenline 40 Hybrid owners: What is your cruising speed? I was hoping to be able to cruise up on a plane at 14-15knts, but whenever I do I get an engine overheating warning. In fact, whenever I run at over 3100RPM I get that warning after about 15 minutes. So that limits me to 11 KNTs max cruising speed. I even had a Volvo mechanic hook up his computer and he said I'm at 80% of max load at 3100RPM, and to just stop pushing it. And I had only half fuel, practically no water, and just the two of us aboard. Would love to hear if other GL40 Hybrid owners are able to cruise up on a plane.

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Good Day , I have had this issue at 18 nots , I can cruise at 14/15 all day long, although 10/12 nots is my fuel consumption sweet spot.

Greenline passerelle

ScottC said:

Now that we have a new, dedicated area for Greenline/Solar/Hybrid discussion, I thought I would start this thread with an eye toward aggregating Greenline 40 discussions that do not fit into any of the other thread categories. Hopefully, this will make it easier for those that might be doing research in the future. Not sure if this type of "organization" will work or not, but will try and see what happens.

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Before picking up my new-used Greenline 33 Hybrid next week, I have a serious doubt about how can an aging skipper and wife get on and off safely in Med stern moorings, especially with a high pier.
I would like to know what type of gangplank/passerelle everyone uses and whether a folding one can be stored in the floor outside lazarette/locker. What is the measurement of that lazarette door? How high is the railing from sea level? Where can the passerelle be fitted, on the stern rail? Can one easily use the corner seat as a step? Does the sun roof provide a grab-hold? Thank you for info and any suggestions.

Lauriesail said:

Before picking up my new-used Greenline 33 Hybrid next week, I have a serious doubt about how can an aging skipper and wife get on and off safely in Med stern moorings, especially with a high pier.
I would like to know what type of gangplank/passerelle everyone uses and whether a folding one can be stored in the floor outside lazarette/locker. What is the measurement of that lazarette door? How high is the railing from sea level? Where can the passerelle be fitted, on the stern rail? Can one easily use the corner seat as a step? Does the sun roof provide a grab-hold? Thank you for info and any suggestions.

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We struggled with this, since arriving in the Med with our GL33 in 2019. We just finished installing what we believe may be the perfect solution. It was expensive, but in the big picture, probably less expensive than a broken limb and big medical bills while traveling.

I will post pictures in a day or two and provide you some additional information.

While a retractable remote controlled solution would have been nice, we did not want all this "junk" hanging off the stern just waiting for an accident to happen. We also did not want the 80-100 kilos that come with equipment like that.

We then set about looking for the next best thing. Our requirements:
- Strong and as light as possible. Light enough for one person to deploy easily
- Very little, if any equipment permanently protruding from the stern
- Collapsible for easier stowing
- Lockable, in order to prevent theft
- Rounded ends to accommodate shifting of the boat while limiting undesired passerelle contact with the transom.
- Able to lower swim platform without having to take down the passerelle.


After months of searching, this is the only option we were able come up with that covered all these requirements:
https://exitcarbon.com/gangways/
Model “Aurora”
The company is based in Italy, near Venice, but the sell and ship worldwide.

We had to have Exit Carbon Engineering produce a custom-designed mounting bracket, due to the angle of the transom and the locking requirement.

On a GL33, using the existing port seat as a “step” is essential. We theorized that, for the most part, we wanted to step “over” the top of the transom and not “up” to the level of the gunwhale with a passerelle resting on top of it. This would not work so well. Too many twists and contortions due to the limit the roof places on standing there. So, we guessed and mounted the bracket such that the top of the passerelle was 31 cm lower than the top of the gunwhale. The seat is 37 cm lower than the top of the gunwhale. Was this a good guess? It’s too soon to tell. So far, we’ve tied up only in three locations. Two of them made me think that were I do the project over again, I would mount the bracket a couple of cm higher…but, really, the jury is still out.

Another essential part of the solution are handholds mounted to the roof on the aft of the boat (see picture). These are inexpensive and are simple to install. We had a yard do it and the total cost for the work, including the handholds was about 250 Eur. Even if you don’t get a passerelle, these will help A LOT.
https://www.osculati.com/en/11292-41.911.18/oval-pipe-handrail-aisi316-19x25-mm-450-mm
450mm model

We also mounted a single swim step just under the bracket to protect it, in case of coming too close to a piling, for example.
It’s identical to the starboard side swim steps used on GL33’s
https://www.osculati.com/en/11627-49.562.00/climbing-step


As for storage…
See photos. The Aurora comes with a water resistant case, so it can sit on deck.
It will also fit under the forward bunk(s).
It will also fit under the cockpit. The opening is 103cm x 58cm. The Aurora is 108cm long, but it’s easy to tilt it in, at least under the port cockpit hatch.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I will try to answer them. If you are interested in cost, you can see a lot of that information on Exit Carbon’s website…and make a quotation request. They will sell to you directly. 50% at order. 50% just before

delivery.


Pictures: (CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE)
1) A typical passerelle solution we've seen...and wanted to avoid
2) Passerelle and mounting bracket installed. First test.
3) Experimenting with a lift rope to the hand hold to keep the passerelle slightly off the ground. Sinks to ground when stepping on it
4) A closeup of the custom designed mounting bracket and protective swim step
5) Another shot experimenting with lift rope and guy
6 & 7) Storage possibilities
8) Showing how the seat, used as a step, is essential.

Thank you for a most comprehensible description of your, I must say, brilliant solution. I suits perfectly my way of thinking of not to clutter up the stern, but with something light to handle by an aging skipper! The only downside is the exhorbitant cost of these carbon toys, but I will have to live with it. I will duplicate your solution (if is not patented!)

The next challenge is the rib, a two-person inflatable one, powered by an electric outboard that can also be stored out of sight for an occasional use.

On the 26th I have Gregor checking the boat but I don’t expect any serious complications and should complete the purchase quickly. I am contemplating whether to cruise Croatia before bringing it home to Sardinia. But I am a bit concerned in fronting a 60 NM crossing in an unfamiliar, unproven boat.

I have also checked out your anchor upgrade as I need a reliable anchor for Sardinian windy anchorages and need to see what I already have on board. How much chain do you have?

Thanks again for your invaluable information.

After having some more PM discussion with Lauriesail, it occured to me that including the picture and measurements below might be of use to GL33 owners considering a passerelle. This is at the pier in Frejus, France.
Our passerelle is working here, as designed. We could even deal with a pier that is a few centimeters higher and have everything work properly. Higher than that, we could probably still manage, but the wheels would not be able to rest on the dock with a load. This is not ideal and, of course, not recommended by the manufacturer. Nevertheless, in a pinch it would work without damage to the passerelle, since it comes with rubber/plastic glide pads on the bottom side where it would rub against the pier. In this case, it would be most important to use a lift line together with a guy line to hold the passerelle OFF the pier a bit and in position.


CLICK ON PICTURE TO ENLARGE

PeterB40 said:

And three weeks recently with our daughter and hubby down to San Diego and back. They're both sailors, but found that the Stbd fill-in double was too small length-wise for both her 5'9 height and his 6' to work. They managed to cobble together a more comfortable double on the longer Port side using the settee backs in some way.

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Thanks for bringing this up. Can anyone advise how I should think about the relative sizes of the guest cabin vs. the converted table on the 39 or the 40? Our family tends towards tall and my two kids are growing fast. What are the dimensions of the mattresses / sleeping areas, and is there a meaningful difference between the 39 and 40 in this regard?

Northwest said:

Thanks for bringing this up. Can anyone advise how I should think about the relative sizes of the guest cabin vs. the converted table on the 39 or the 40? Our family tends towards tall and my two kids are growing fast. What are the dimensions of the mattresses / sleeping areas, and is there a meaningful difference between the 39 and 40 in this regard?

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NW, this was on our GL 33 Hybrid - no guest cabin. Whereas the Port settee berth is 7' long, there's no good way to make it a double without a morass of cushions on the floor. The Stbd settee-lowered table fill-in has only about 5' 8" length. The width is OK for double. A ~1' aft-end table extension of the inner half of the berth that's not constrained by the settee end wouldn't be that hard to engineer.

Tips for buying a used Greenline 40 Hybrid?

Hello ScottC and all,

This is a great thread!

My husband and I are about to do sea trials of three used Greenline 40 hybrids, all in Europe, and we’d love any tips you can offer us, before we get to the point of hiring a surveyor. I’ve read through all of the discussion on this thread so far, which looks incredibly helpful!

As for us, we’ve been boaters of smaller, 22-26’ inboard gas engine waterski and wakeboard boats for 25+ years, though we’re not as mechanically inclined and knowledgeable as we should be by now. (But we’re now planning to take a diesel mechanics course!) We have been aboard a Greenline 40—without a sea trial—and we just love everything about it. Our plan will be to cruise European inland waterways and the Mediterranean, living aboard for 3-5 months a year for the next many years to come.

The boats we’re currently looking at (there aren’t a lot to choose from) are in the 2013-2016 range, so they all have the VW engines. They range from 100-600 engine hours. We’d hoped to find a 2017 or newer (but still preowned, as we almost always prefer to buy used), as we understand that’s the year they switched to Volvo Penta, and also a newer hybrid system. But we haven’t been able to find a 2017 or newer at this point.

What relatively simple inspections and tests would you particularly recommend for us to do to determine how well the boat has been cared for (especially of course the engines and batteries)?

Many thanks for any direction you can provide!!

Hi EllenO & welcome aboard!

We’ve not operated a GL40, but have been on one. If we were to move up in size, it would be absolutely to the GL40 and not the GL39.


Love the layout and interior space of the GL40, including the 2nd cabin. Also love the wide walkaround decks. The GL40 would be PERFECT for navigating through Europe/France on canals and rivers.

My thoughts and comments for you:
- VW Marine sold out to Cummins Marine Diesel some years ago. We’ve have had absolutely no problems with our 2010 VW Marine 165hp Turbo diesel, but some parts may be more difficult to source. For example, we replaced our exhaust elbow and the yard had to fit a Yanmar elbow, as the original replacement part is no longer available. We have not heard of any GL owner left “stranded”, however, for not being able to find a suitable replacement part for their VW engine.

• Read through all the GL threads in the dedicated GL section of this forum. When the TF administrators agreed to make a dedicated GL discussion area, I tried to create some “structure threads” to organize the discussions. I think my strategy has failed, hence my recommendation to read through the other GL threads. You will find stuff relevant to GL40 in some of these.
• Ask if the hybrid clutch master and slave cylinders have been replaced. These are the hydraulic cylinders that are used to move the clutch so you can operate in electric mode, rather than the “default” of diesel. If the seller claims they have been replaced, ask when. Ask to see the service invoice or documentation showing this. If they haven’t been replaced and/or no documentation can be produced, you should insist on approximately a 5 000€ deduction from the asking price FOR EACH ENGINE. This was a known, shall I say, design flaw/part quality issue around the early years for GL33 and GL40. You will see discussion in TF on this. The last time I had my cylinders replaced (lot of work), I had it done by a competent yard in Sweden and it was around 3 500€.
• Have a battery expert look at the health of the 48v batteries. In particular, have them do a load test. The expected lifespan of the original Kokam 48v batteries was claimed to be 10 years by GL. I got 8 ½ years out of mine. If the batteries have been replaced, ask to see documentation as to when. If they have not been replaced, but are getting on in years, I suggest you request an asking price deduction of 15 000€ for EACH 48v battery. Also, you may want to consider getting a lead time estimate from the GL manufacturer (SVP Yachts in Slovenia) for how long it would take to get new 48v batteries. I’ve heard about some significant delays this year. The 12v batteries are nothing unusual or unusually expensive, but you still may wish to have your battery expert check them while he’s there looking at the 48v batteries.

I wish the best of luck in your search and trials!

Northwest said:

Thanks for bringing this up. Can anyone advise how I should think about the relative sizes of the guest cabin vs. the converted table on the 39 or the 40? Our family tends towards tall and my two kids are growing fast. What are the dimensions of the mattresses / sleeping areas, and is there a meaningful difference between the 39 and 40 in this regard?

Click to expand...

We cross shopped the 39 and 40 before deciding to purchase a 39. My perception was that the berths were actually the same size but the difference between the two cabins was primarily the head room. It was much higher on the 40. The interior berth on the 39 has pretty low overall height due to the location of the fixed table in the salon.

Surprisingly there is not that much difference in the actual main cabin or forward cabin spaces between the two. I am attaching a pdf that shows the two boats side by side at relative scale. You'll see the configuration is U-shaped with a fixed table on the 39 vs L-shaped with a freestanding table on the 40. We preferred the fixed table arrangement.

The primary differences are the second cabin head room, settee configuration and and of course, 1 vs 2 engines.

Jon
2019 Greenline 39 Hybrid "Gratitude"

Hello Scott, how can I reach you to ask that additional detail to be aware of on the used GL hybrids? I’m about to plan my trip to Europe to view some used 2014’s.

GBTony said:

Hello Scott, how can I reach you to ask that additional detail to be aware of on the used GL hybrids? I’m about to plan my trip to Europe to view some used 2014’s.

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Hi GB Tony - send me a PM and I will reply with my e-mail address.


Are thinking of buying a GL40 for use in Europe only or are you thinking of having one shipped to the US? If the latter, you might first want to investigate the likely need/cost for changing over the necessary electrical system components from 230v to 110v. You will likely need to change your Victron Multi Inverter/Charger, your Victron 12v charger, circuit breakers, outlets and possibly even wiring (which is typically in harnesses and difficult to access).

Are you in Korkula ?

Hello,
If you are in Korkula on the GL 40 I’ll be please to invite you in a cafe to talk about GL.
I’ve try to PM you but ScottC doesn’t appear in the list on my IPhone.
Thx
Pierre